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"Alternative Spa Sanitizers"
Modern
technology has made other choices available.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
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Making A Different Spa Sanitizer Choice
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The phrase "Alternative
Spa Sanitizer" usually refers to something other than conventional forms of
chlorine: the most popular sanitizing product. Alternative Spa
Sanitizers include: salt chlorine generators, ionization-oxidation, ionizers, mineral
sanitizers, ozone generators, ultraviolet sanitizers, biguanide (Trades names
such as Baquacil, Baqua-Spa, Soft-Swim & Revacil) and bromine. Some
alternatives perform best by being used in combination, while others can be
stand alone. Some alternatives are other chemicals and some are generating or
releasing devices. The quest for
perfect spa and hot tub sanitizing is ongoing. The goal is better sanitizing, more
convenience, less chemical sensations and safety. What is right for any spa or hot
tub will depend on how it is used, by whom it is used, bather demand, importance of
convenience and cost considerations. No matter which sanitizer is used, it is a good
practice to shock the spa at least once a week, after periods of heavy usage and at
distinct signs of a loss of water quality. This will help to rid the water of
organic buildups and prevent the development of resistant microorganisms.
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or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will give you access to additional
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►
The Right Tester &
Sanitizer?
I have invested in nearly a year's
supply of biguanide chemistry with the purchase of my new spa. My wife
has sensitive skin and I thought biguanide would be the answer, I hope I
have not just fallen for the biguanide hype. I spoke to the
manufacturer about clarity, slippery walls and foaming and they
suggested that I have the water analyzed at a professional pool store.
They said that the slipperiness was probably caused by the hardness
not being high enough and the foaming could be cause by the water not
being hard enough or too much chemistry in the water. I have been
chasing this for a while so there is a lot of chemistry in the water
even though it is only a couple weeks old. I took both spa water
and unaltered supply water in for analysis and they used the same test
strips I have at home, but put them into a computerized reader and it
printed out the results. I have a 485 gallon spa. The analysis showed
the pH was 8.1 and they recommended 2 oz. pH Down; the Biguanide was 25
and they suggested 2 oz. of biguanide sanitizer and the hardness was
160, the dealer did not recommend hardening the water, but I added the
recommended 10 oz of Hardness Increaser because biguanide manufacturer
said this could be part of the foaming problem. I added the
chemistry last night and this morning my spa is still slightly cloudy
and is still foaming. I added some Foam Disperser and that helped a
lot. I also added some biguanide water clarifier to see if this might
help by tomorrow. I got the analysis of the supply water and if
the spa does not sparkle up and the foaming go down I may drain, clean
the filter and start over. I didn't use to have a foaming problem so it
may be a build up of chemistry. The water is not that old but I have
been chasing this problem for a couple weeks now and have tried a lot of
different things. My question is, would it be a worthwhile
investment to purchase your ColorQ Biguanide PRO 5 Water Analyzer so I
could hopefully dial in the biguanide chemistry or should I abandon
biguanide and a couple hundred dollars of chemistry to try another
system? I would hate to buy the analyzer, then abandon biguanide, that
would cost a lot of money. Can this analyzer be used for other systems
too if I change systems? I like the idea of biguanide being
non-irritating and we have been very happy with the results so far.
except for the clarity and foaming issues. I don't mind putting in
effort and expense to get the biguanide balanced and effective, but if
the time and money are wasted and I will never get the results I want I
might as well bite the bullet and switch to another system. Should
I buy the analyzer? Is it accurate enough to get my spa dialed in with
biguanide or is it a losing battle?
Jim H. Temecula ,
CA, 7/4/2010
I wasn't planning on answering
letters today, but yours hit a chord. Although I do sell a tester
for biguanide, I suggest that you not purchase it, even if it is a
better tester than what the dealer is using. Test strips, even the
best, are not precise. In my opinion, using a scanner and computer to
read them, doesn't increase the precision and may actually provide less
reliable results. Have them run the same sample twice and see what
happens. The slimy walls are a positive sign of
inadequate sanitation. It is not uncommon, for biguanide users to
develop sanitizer resistant microorganisms. Some dealers do everything
that they can, to keep you using the product, not because it is chlorine
free, but because it is profitable. Foaming and biguanide go hand in
hand, as the material is known to foam, when agitated or aerated. Foam
presents another sanitizing issue, as proper sanitation demands that the
foam be eliminated, at some point. Otherwise, the ecology of the foam
will be different, from that of the spa water. The problems you
are experiencing will only get worse and will continue to be a wasteful
expense. I suggest that you drain and clean the spa and prepare to use
another sanitizer. I realize that your wife has chemical sensitivity
issues, which drove you to biguanide, in the first place. I agree that
chlorine, as used in a spa, can be both odorous and irritating and can
detract from the experience. Bromine would be a better choice in terms
of both odor and irritation. Instead of simply using bromine at
the suggested 3-5 PPM, I suggest that you consider using alternative
sanitizers, that can be chemical-free or add only minimal amounts of
innocuous metallic ions. If this is done, the bromine usage will be
minimized, to the point that its presence will go unnoticed. With the
right equipment, almost any measurable amount will be enough.
You can use a
SPA FROG Mineral
Sanitizer and an
UltraPure
Ozone Generator
and come close to only requiring a trace of bromine. If all that is
required is a small amount to maintain a low bromine level, it acts as
confirmation that everything is working up to par. You could also add a
Delta UV Sanitizer, which adds
no chemicals at all and kills virtually all microorganisms passing
through the cell. It isn't used alone, but can be combined with other
alternative sanitizers, to help reduce the chemical presence and afford
real backup sanitizing.
I hope that this information will prove helpful. Have a happy July 4th.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/4/2010
►
Hot Tub Chemicals?
I have a new hot tub, 1325
litres. The company recommends a treatment program consisting of several chemicals.
This series of chemicals is used to treat hot tub water and starts with a product
which is a granular chlorine. After addition, the water is let be for 12 hrs before
adding any other product. Assuming pH, alkalinity, etc. are OK, then you add a
product which is an Oxidizer and a Clarifier. This procedure is supposed to last
approx. one week, with only having to keep the chlorine @ 3+ ppm. The pH and
alkalinity have to be maintained. My question is, having gone thru a case of
"folliculitis", is my tub receiving the proper sanitation with this system and, if not, can you recommend a proper type and procedure? I should mention also that
every time I use the tub I get itchy where the "folliculitis" was. Please
help.
Ken M.,
Chatham, Ontario, Canada, 1/14/2004
One of the consequences of
failing to maintain a proper 1-3 PPM level of
Free
Chlorine
is the possibility of folliculitis. The only chemical that you
are adding, that is a
s anitizer, is the chlorine product. I suggest that you test for Free Chlorine,
before and after each use. If too low, add more chlorine and allow 1/2 hour to
sanitize before retesting and using the spa. It is a good practice to
shock the spa at least once a week, after periods of heavy usage and at distinct signs of
a loss of water quality. This will help to rid the water of organic buildups and
prevent the development of resistant microorganisms. It is a good practice to
shock the spa at least once a week, after periods of heavy usage and at distinct signs of
a loss of water quality. This will help to rid the water of organic buildups and
prevent the development of resistant microorganisms.
The addition of an
Ozone Generator
will help the chlorine sanitize better because ozone will do more of the
oxidation of wastes and byproducts.
Please
refer to the archives for more information on chlorine alternatives and related
topics. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 1/14/2004
►
Can't Use Chlorine Or
Bromine?
I'll
bet that this one will stump you. My wife and I cannot use chlorine or bromine without affecting our Iodine levels and our
thyroid. Our doctor suggested using Iodine as a sanitizer since it is a member
of the Halogen family (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine). I searched the web and
found many sites referencing the use of Iodine, but only one briefly mentioned the PPM of 7-10 for a
wading pool. Do you know what the PPM should be and what would be the best
oxidizer to use. One site mentioned Hypochlorite which reintroduces chlorine back into
our spa. We are currently using a non chlorine shock. The water is reasonably clear; algae and odor free, and has the slight greenish tinge that the web sites described
for Iodine sanitized spas. We do get foam, shortly after adding the Iodine
which de-foaming products easily take care of. pH is 7.8, when I add pH minus it
comes down for a while then creeps back up. Total alkalinity is about 120. Any advice
or tips for using Iodine would be appreciated. Of all the information sites I
have found yours is the best. Thank you.
Bruce M., 9/28/2006
Close but
no prize. Unless this is an EPA registered sanitizer, I don't feel
that this is an area that I want to venture into or that you should pursue.
Instead, let's help you maintain a spa without non-chlorine shock, chlorine
or bromine and with fewer chemicals. Add a
UV sanitizer. It
will kill virtually all of the microorganisms in the return flow, without
any chemicals.
UV
sanitizers require that an oxidizer be added to the water, to destroy
organic wastes and accumulations. Instead of using non-chlorine shock,
chlorine or bromine, you can use an
ozone generator. It only adds a form of oxygen
to the water. Because ozone does not remain in the water for prolonged
periods of time, you should have a persistent sanitizer, that will prevent
growth in the spa water and on the underwater surfaces. Add the
SPA FROG Mineral Sanitizer
and all that you will be adding is a trace amount of silver ions. Fewer chemicals
will be required and the water quality will be better. This regimen
will be easier to maintain and halogen free! I hope that this
information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 9/28/2006
►
Natural Sanitizing?
Alan, We're just about ready to have our hot tub
installed. I've been looking at the various ways to keep the water
clean. I came across this a natural enzyme based product.
Is this for real, what would be the shortfall using this method to keep the
hot tub water clean? Thanks for all your ideas, they are very
informative.
Rick B., Rochester, NY
4/8/2011
If you don't
control infectious bacteria, such as pseudomonas and e. coli, you can end
up
with a rash or worse. This product is not a recognized sanitizer. I have heard
it described as being like lake
water. Check the label. Does it have the EPA Registration number that a
sanitizer must have? Evidently, this product,
can under certain circumstances, work. I suspect that it can be overwhelmed due
to high bather usage and that can lead to problems.
I would rather use a
product that I can measure and test and that works under virtually all properly
maintained conditions.
I suggest that you consider a more traditional spa water sanitizer. Bromine
or Chlorine and a
Mineral Sanitizer in conjunction with an Ozonator or
Ultra-Violet Sanitizer will afford much greater protection.
I'm glad that you found the website helpful. Good luck and enjoy the spa.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/8/2011
► A
Switch From Chlorine?
For
health reasons, my husband and I have decided to change our method of
cleaning our tub. We are looking for something all natural, and have been
advised to investigate using a copper ionizing system. What do you think of
these systems, particularly the Copper-Zinc Core Spa Filter? Thank you.
Kimberly M., Vandalia, Ohio, 9/1/2008
I suggest that you
consider the use of ozone and a mineral sanitizer, along with a low level of
bromine. The addition of an ozone generator and mineral sanitizer is
something that will make maintenance easier and produce higher quality water.
For more information about ozone and
UltraPure ozone generators
go to:
www.waterquality.net
For more information on
Spa Frog Mineral Sanitizers
go to:
www.kingtechnology.com
I hope that I have been helpful. Copper is better in a pool application,
as it exhibits algaecidal properties. The problem in a spa is primarily
bacterial. The SPA FROG is recognized and registered by the EPA, as both
a spa disinfectant and sanitizer. It is the only such product with these
designations. It uses silver ions to control microorganisms. I
hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
9/1/2008
►
An Algaecide In A
Spa?
We have a spa that is located
outside and is used all year. In the summer, we don't use the heater and more or
less use it as a pool for the kids. Should I be adding algaecide - like they do in
pools?
T. S.,
Sarasota, FL, 12/6/2003
Most spas do not use an
algaecide. Inasmuch as spas are usually heated and, therefore, are covered when not
in use, the normal spa sanitizers are able to control algae. In your case,
especially, if the spa is left uncovered in the summer, the addition of an algaecide might
be worthwhile. However, you cannot add just any algaecide. The only one that I
would recommend is the Polymer (polyquat) type. Other algaecides could cause
excessive foaming, in a spa, and should not be used. The polymer
types are
non-foaming. Follow the label directions and use an appropriate
amount! I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 12/6/2003
►
Needs More Than Just Hydrogen Peroxide?
Our sole water supply is
lake water. In our hot tub we use only hydrogen peroxide as a
sanitizer for health reasons We are finding that we must shock
it daily with at least a cup of hydrogen peroxide to get it up to the
required ppm. You mention adding a mineral sanitizer. Will this
make it ppm hold longer? Is a "mineral sanitizer" a natural product?
Carol G., 1/6/2010
Hydrogen peroxide is not recognized as a spa sanitizer. You could
add a
SPA FROG mineral
sanitizer, as well, since it will provide additional,
persistent sanitizing. It is EPA registered as a spa sanitizer and
disinfectant. However, it must be used with an oxidizer. While
hydrogen peroxide will fill the oxidizer role, I am not sure if it will
suffice. In any case, it will improve the current situation. For more
information go to:
www.kingtechnology.com
All the SPA FROG adds to the water are silver ions.
You can reduce the hydrogen peroxide requirements,
by using a
PURESTART 1 Micron
pre-filter to treat all new
water. It simply attracts to a garden hose. You can also use it, with
a small submersible pump, to recirculate the hot tub water. This will
remove organic contaminants and even many microorganisms, that have
built up, due to bather usage. One PURESTART can be used many times
over. I hope that this
information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/6/2010
► Copper-Containing
Product?
Thank you for taking a
question! I have read on your site that it is not recommended to use copper
sulfate primarily in a pool. Of course, our pool installer is really pushing a
copper sulfate product to use instead of chlorine. I am guessing that this is a
new product that is not dangerous in large quantities. as normal copper sulfate
would be. Are you familiar with this new way of keeping a spa clean? Any
advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Catherine, 3/19/2005
Copper sulfate
cannot replace chlorine! Chlorine is a sanitizer and an oxidizing agent.
Copper acts, primarily, as an algaecide. Copper can be useful as part of an
overall pool maintenance program, in conjunction with other products. Copper
sulfate must be used only at very low and controlled levels: otherwise,
staining and discoloration can result. Virtually all of the copper containing
products are based on some chelated (stabilized) form of copper. Copper is
rarely used in spas.
What spas need are
active sanitizing and oxidation: something best provided by the use of
ozonators,
mineral sanitizers, chlorine and/or bromine.
The product that you are referring to is not copper sulfate, but is some
complexed form of copper. While it might provide some control of algae and bacteria,
it cannot be used as a stand alone water treatment. It must be used with an
oxidizer or shock. If you want a spa that is less reliant on chemicals,
consider an ozonator! All you will need to do is maintain a low level of
a backup sanitizer, such as a mineral sanitizer chlorine, bromine or possibly
this copper product. Shock will not be required on a regular basis,
because of the ozonator. Water maintenance will be easier and the quality
will be better. I hope that the information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/19/2005
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►
Hydrogen
Peroxide?
We have a hot tub and would like
to use hydrogen peroxide instead of the normal chemicals. My husband is
allergic to the chlorine and bromides. How much Hydrogen peroxide do we
use and what %. We were told that it should be a 10% concentration but we
can't find any hydrogen peroxide above 3%. I thought maybe you could help
us. Also do we nee to use any kind of a shock at the first? Hope you
can help? Thanks.
Jo, 7/10/2005
I am not sure
that using just hydrogen peroxide will provide adequate sanitation. In
pools and spas, it is used as a shock treatment with biguanide. It is
available in concentrated form in many pool and spa outlets that offer biguanide
products. Have you considered the use of an ozonator and a
mineral
sanitizer or ionizer. This combination would come close to
being chlorine and bromine
free. The
ozonator could
negate the need for hydrogen peroxide and a mineral sanitizer or ionizer would
release metallic ions and act as a persistent sanitizer. Hydrogen
peroxide can be used as a shock treatment, with a mineral sanitizer or ionizer
as the primary water sanitizer. However, in most cases better
results are obtained, if you maintain a low level
of chlorine or bromine, along with a mineral sanitizer and ozonator.
I hope that I've been helpful and given you some food for thought. Good
luck with your decision.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/10/2005
►
Just Hydrogen Peroxide?
I have started using
Hydrogen Peroxide in my hot tub and I need some help. I started with
fresh water (400 gallons) and added 1 cup of Hydrogen Peroxide. This
appeared to work great for the first couple of weeks. Now, it has been
about four days since we used our hot tub and when I opened it up, the water
was quite discolored (greenish-brownish). What can I do? Do you use other
products in conjunction with Hydrogen Peroxide such as pH products. My
hot tub is outside. Thank you,
Hydrogen peroxide is
not recognized as a spa water sanitizer. It has to
be used in conjunction with a persistent sanitizer and the
overall spa water chemistry has to be maintained.
Your description of the water proves the point! The
addition of an
ozonator is something that you might consider, as
it will make maintenance easier and produce higher quality
water. It will reduce the chemical consumption. You might add
a
Spa FROG mineral sanitizer,
as well. The combination of the two work well together.
All you should need is a very low level of bromine, as it will
act as confirmation that proper conditions are being
maintained. Instead of the ozonator you could use the hydrogen
peroxide.
I believe that you better off starting with a clean slate. I
would clean the spa and start anew. I hope that this
information helps get you off to a better start.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/25/2006
► Questionable Sanitizer Advice?
It
looks like I have developed a skin reaction/rash to
Potassium Peroxymonosulfate that I have been using in my hot
tub. The product has 45.2% Potassium Peroxymonosulfate
that has 4.7% active oxygen). I am wondering if I can use
hydrogen peroxide (H202) instead and what the differences
are between these two compounds (eg: will H202
cause the same skin reaction as Potassium
Peroxymonosulfate). Do you think the H202
products that another web site mentions are OK to use? Here
is what the relevant sections says: "Hydrogen peroxide
is available at most spa stores, under the category of
oxidizers or shock treatments. Since it is sold as a
cleaning agent, most spa stores are unaware of its value as
a sanitizer. Several brands don't even indicate the contents
on the bottle. (A Federal MSDS Report can be requested from
any manufacturer for a list of ingredients and potential
health hazards.) Three brands are certified to contain
27% hydrogen peroxide: Another web site says to get H202
test strips and maintain the H202 level between 50 and 100
ppm. I am hoping that H202
will do the trick to allow me to sanitize my hot tub and not
have to use bromine tablets, which I used to use but don't
anymore due to their (or their by products) cancer causing
properties. Thanks in advance for your help.
► Sensitive To Chlorine?
We recently purchased a vinyl hot tub and are running
it inside in our bedroom. I just learned about NTM and the dangers of inhaling
the microorganisms while soaking in the tub. Can you tell me if enzyme products
are effective against NTM (I am sensitive to chlorine so that is not an option
for me). We are currently using a product, which the dealer said was approved
for hot tub use. My understanding is that it is a copper based product, which is
also used as a pesticide. Although it may be better than chorine for me, I
would prefer something more natural. Anything we would use would have to be OK
to use in this type of tub. We look forward to your assistance.
M. M., Maine, 2/24/2004
Non
Tuberculosis Mycobacteria (NTM), according to Center for Disease Control
(CDC) information, is not something unique to spa or hot tub use. These
are bacterium, that are found in the environment, and can be opportunistic in
their growth. Bacterial growth can be the direct result of inadequate
sanitation. Although chlorine and bromine are effective spa sanitizers, I
can appreciate that you are sensitive to chlorine (and probably bromine, as
well) and need to find an alternative spa sanitizer. However, you are
relying on products that are NOT bactericides! Enzyme products are not
approved spa sanitizing agents. I am not familiar or knowledgeable about
the specific product, that you are referring to, but if it does not have an
E.P.A. registration number, it is not a registered spa water sanitizer. The other product may be approved for use
in your tub, but it is NOT a bactericide. It functions as an algaecide and
that does make it a pesticide. However, not all pesticides are
bactericides! You have
several good choices, of alternative spa water sanitizers, including:
ozonators, mineral sanitizers, ionizers,
uv
sanitizers, biguanide or a combination of more than one. An ozonator can be
used with either a
mineral sanitizer
or ionization unit and can provide effective
spa water sanitizing with a minimum of chemicals. Biguanide can be used, in
conjunction with hydrogen peroxide, as a spa sanitizer. Please refer to the
archives on these products for information on their spa usage. I hope that
you will help this information helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/24/2004
►
No More Bromine?
Over the past 12 years of
enjoying my spa, I have developed an extreme intolerance of bromine. Even very
low levels of 1 ppm or less are enough to trigger an eczema rash. Last year, I
tried switching to a copper ion sanitizer system ,which immediately eliminated
the rash problem, but I have discovered that copper ion is banned in Canada due
to its effect on fish populations. My question: Is there any reliable long-term
sanitizer system that is completely bromine and chlorine free? I have an
ozonator, which is an oxidizer only and must be backed up by a sanitizer.
Biguanide seems to be only a short term solution only because of the tendency to
build up resistant organisms, and following the links to the mineral sanitizers
and UV sanitizers you mention suggest that they reduce, but not eliminate
the need for bromine.
Graeme S., British Columbia, 1/8/2008
Assuming that you're a typical person, you have been in swimming pools
that used chlorine. You may not like the smell, but you should be able
to virtually eliminate any significant odor. The point is that you are
probably not sensitive to chlorine. Bromine tablets contain
dimethyl hydantoin. This chemical is only found in bromine-sanitized
pools and spas. The high spa temperatures make development of a rash
even more likely. The first thing you should do is drain and clean the
spa. That will get rid of the dimethyl hydantoin. You may
be able to still use the copper-ionization unit, if you shut off the
copper ionization function. Both this unit and the
ozonator will
provide all the oxidation the spa should require. The problem is that
both are short-lived and a persistent sanitizer is required. The copper
helped fill that role. It is best to run the ozonator for periods
spread throughout the day. You still need a persistent sanitizer
and I suggest chlorine. Keep the level at 0.5 to 1.5 PPM.
Both
the ozonator and oxidation units will destroy the odorous, irritating
forms of chlorine, resulting in little or no odor. Because there is so
much oxidation, the chlorine will only be needed for sanitation and not
oxidation. It should take very little chlorine to maintain this level,
if these other units are operating. Having both units
seems to be excessive. I have never come across a spa so equipped. You
might be able to take one of service or run them on alternate days.
Biguanide sounds like a possible choice, but my mail suggests that you
will encounter problems, within a few years and have to make a switch.
You seem to have concluded the same. As for the rash and this
regimen, please discuss this with your doctor. Please let me know
how this works out.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 1/9/2008
►
How Does A Mineral Sanitizer
Work?
I'm using a Mineral
Sanitizer Cartridge in my spa.
I add some non-chlorine shock after each use. I like it because there is very
little odor, if any. Exactly, how does this cartridge replace chlorine?
Dennis G.,
2/22/2005
The cartridge contains silver,
in a form that allows for slow release into the spa water. This is done
without the use of electrical components, as is the case with Ionization Units.
The silver is released into the water in ionic form. This is the most active form and
allows the ions to function as sanitizers, at very low concentrations. Chlorine is
normally used to provide this type of sanitizing action. However, chlorine will also
destroy and decompose organic wastes and debris. Because
metallic
ions cannot destroy the organic contamination or prevent further buildups, it is necessary
to add an oxidizer to do this job. That is the reason for adding the non-chlorine
shock. Maintaining
a free chlorine of that favors the low end of 1-3 PPM, helps assure proper
sanitation, at all times. The use of the
Mineral
Sanitizer should reduce the overall chemical usage and
make control of the water chemistry easier. An
ozone generator is the easiest and best
way to perform the oxidation of wastes and byproducts, without contributing
chemicals or odors. Enjoy the spa. I hope that I have
been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/15/2004
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