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"Ionization-Oxidation Pool Sanitizers"
An alternative sanitizer, born of the space-age.
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Ionization-Oxidation
Systems are
hybrid water purification devices that supply a dual stream of sanitizing
metallic ions to the pool water: usually copper and zinc. The copper ions function primarily as an algaecide and the zinc ions
function as a bactericide. Used properly, the ions are maintained at
very low levels, avoiding the possibility of staining or discoloration.
What makes Ionization-Oxidation a hybrid product and sets it apart from simple
ionizers is another set of electrodes that produces various forms of active
oxygen. The ability to both sanitize and oxidize wastes and organic
byproducts makes this a very effective system, with a low chemical presence.
It is this dual functionality that makes this product more versatile than
ionizers or mineral sanitizers. When used in conjunction with a very low
level of chlorine, Ionization-Oxidation produces better and more consistent
results with minimal chemical usage.
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► What is Ionization-Oxidation?
A friend has a pool that uses something called
TechnoPure Ionization-Oxidation. He seemed very happy with it and I must admit
there was no heavy chlorine smell. It sounded too good to be true, but
I didn't want to press him on the details. Can you fill in the blanks?
Jerry N., Darien, GA, 6/23/2007
Ionization-Oxidation
is a hybrid
method for purifying water. The technology was actually
used in
the space program to purify water on many manned space missions. In
the better units, electrodes release controllable amounts of copper and zinc
ions, to act as sanitizers. In addition, other electrodes produce
forms of active oxygen to destroy organic matter, algae and waste products.
The Ionization-Oxidation unit is operated for a preset time and carries the
sanitizing load, with a minimal chemical presence. Frequently, it is
touted as 100% chlorine free. In the real world, better and more
consistent results are gotten, by also maintaining a very low level of
chlorine. It requires very little chlorine and there should be little
or no sense of this being a chlorine pool. The chlorine just helps
bridge the gap between the shutting off of the unit and its restart the next
day. If you are interested in a pool that uses a minimum of chemicals,
this is something to consider. I hope that this information proves to
be helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
6/24/2007
►
A Safer Choice?
One of my clients wishes to use H2O2
as a sanitizing agent instead of chlorine for their pool. What they've come up
with is a 35% solution. How can this be administered safely and what are safe
concentration levels for swimming pool water? Is H2O2
the same as biguanide? They may also be interested in using another sanitizer
in conjunction with the H2O2.
What are the pros and cons of this? Thanks.
Jim, 7/13/2009
Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)
is used as an oxidizer with biguanide sanitized pools and
spas. It is not biguanide, nor is it recognized as a pool or spa
sanitizer. It is just an oxidizer and a dangerous material to handle. It
would have to used with another method for sanitizing, in order to assure
proper conditions. If
the goal is to avoid the harsher conditions and odors associated with most
chlorine pools and to reduce the overall chemical presence, an
UltraPure
Ozone Generator and
Spa Frog Mineral Sanitizer would be an excellent choice.
With that, you would not need to maintain a minimal amount of chlorine or
bromine: just enough to maintain a 1 PPM level.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/14/2009
► Wants To Be Enviro-Friendlier?
I have a small pool, with a waterfall feature. The dogs drink
from there as well. I live in the mountains and do not want chemicals to clean
the pool. I am on a solar energy system. any hints? There is an ultra violet
light in the system already. I prefer a "green"
enviro-friendlier approach.
Melinda,
7/21/2007
The
UV
Sanitizer will not be enough, but it
will make it a lot easier and will reduce overall chemical usage. You must
have oxidation, in order to destroy wastes and organic byproducts. I suggest
looking into using an
ozonator.
Depending on the dogs, use of the pool, you might still need to maintain a free
chlorine level. The use of the ozonator will allow to maintain the
chlorine level, using less product and will help destroy the odorous and
irritating chloramines.
Poor circulation and dead spots can make sanitizing more challenging.
THE CIRCULATOR
is a device that greatly improves circulation and improves sanitation. It
installs in the return fitting quite easily. I hope that this information is
"green" enough for you and helpful, as well.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/21/2007
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| #2066 ColorQ COPPER 5
Digital Analyzer |
| The perfect tester for pools
using a copper-ionization sanitizing system. Click the image
for product and ordering information. |
► Minimizing Chemicals?
Someone in my family is very sensitive to
whatever is used in most pools. We live in south Florida and have a
heated pool, so it permits year round use. I want a system that allows
me to use the least amount of chemicals and do it easily, without
sacrificing the ability to properly sanitize the water. I have
rejected salt chlorine generators, because of the salt level required and
because it is still a chlorine pool. Is there a unit or combination
that can serve my needs. Thank you for any help you can offer.
Betty J., Boca Raton, FL 5/12/2007
An Ionization-Oxidation
unit might be just what you want. It uses copper and zinc ions to
provide a persistent level of sanitizing action and generates forms of
active oxygen to help assist the sanitizing and destroy organic wastes.
Some might argue that you don't need any chlorine and that could be
true, under the best of circumstances. I prefer to see a very low
level of chlorine maintained. Not enough to call this a chlorine pool
or to even sense its presence, but enough to confirm that a persistent
oxidizer-sanitizer is present. Just the presence of this low level
acts to confirm that the system is functioning properly and is meets the
needs of the pools sanitation. I like the notion of being able to test
and measure a sanitizer. Add
The Circulator
to boost circulation and eliminate dead zones and you further improve the
system. An Ionization-Oxidation unit can be fully automated for ease
of maintenance. About all you'll have to do is control the pH and this
low chlorine level. The oxidation helps to eliminate the odorous and
irritating forms of chlorine. It isn't quite chlorine free, but it
performs and as is close to chemical-free, as practical. I hope that
this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/12/2007
►
Ionization-Oxidation?
Dear Alan, your fame spreads
far and wide! Another couple of questions from the other side of the pond
(U.K.) I am considering fitting an ioniser, several manufacturers out
there, some use copper electrodes, some copper and silver, some use copper,
silver and zinc. from my own studies of bacterial research via the web it
appears that there is a synergy between copper and silver which provides a
kill rate at 4ppm which can only be matched by copper alone at 8ppm
therefore am I correct that the life of the electrodes (copper & silver) will
be longer due to the amount of ions required and also the electricity
required will be less saving the planet a bit more not too mention that
staining should be less? Second question, You do not seem to mention
that some manufacturers include a second pair of electrodes (titanium or
platinum) that are used to provide oxygen to burn up those impurities
normally carried out via chlorine, thus eliminating chlorine completely.
What are your thoughts? I have also found a German company that has
made diamond surfaced plates that produce 100% more oxygen than platinum
plates. Kind regards.
John W., U.K., 4/10/2007
I
will always have fond memories of the UK and the pool business, having
attended a trade show in Brighton, many years ago. Ionizers (forgive
the spelling) sanitize by releasing metallic ions: copper, silver and
zinc. As far as concentration is concerned, 4 or 8 PPM, is far too
high, as that would likely result in staining and discoloration problems.
Levels in the tenths of a PPM would be more appropriate, in a swimming pool.
While an ionizer helps sanitize the water, it is not a complete
system. Oxidation will still be required. Towards that end, an
ozonator
could be used to provide the needed oxidation. It can be
challenging to totally eliminate chlorine, as its presence on a persistent
basis provides both sanitizing and oxidizing and it might be required,
occasionally, if the bather loads are high or conditions warrant. The
maintenance of a minimal level of chlorine or bromine, helps to confirm that
the sanitizing and oxidizing needs are being met. For
those that want to totally eliminate chlorine. adding high efficiency filtration,
The Circulator
for improved circulation or a
UV
sanitizer will make success more
likely. If you want to minimize the use of chlorine, a combination of
systems may be the best answer. I hope that this information proves useful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/10/2007
►
Time To Switch?
GREAT SITE! I HAVE A
PROBLEM WITH BROWN STAINS IN MY INGROUND POOL WITH A VINYL LINER. I READ THE
ANSWERS ON YOUR SITE AND I JUST WANTED TO KNOW IF THE ASCORBIC ACID WILL BE
OK TO USE WITH BIGUANIDE? WILL IT HURT MY 12 YR. OLD FILTER?
THANKS.
ANNE MARIE, 7/13/2007
I think
you should be able to use ascorbic acid. First try the vitamin C tablets on a
spot to see if it will work. If it fails to work, I recommend a permanent
switch to another sanitizer, as this is likely due to a biguanide-resistant
microorganism. It is not uncommon for mold and pink slime problems to develop,
after a few years of using biguanide. Conversion is simple. Add 4 gallons
of liquid chlorine for every 5,000 gallons of water. The chlorine will react
with the biguanide and start to decompose it. As this happens the pool will go
through cloudy and discolored states. This is normal. Periodically test the
FREE CHLORINE level! You have to repeat this dosage. Only after enough
chlorine has been added to register a stable FREE CHLORINE level, will enough
have been added so as to destroy the biguanide, algae and debris. From this
point on you should be able to maintain the chlorine level with normal product
additions. During this time, balance the pH, total alkalinity and add chlorine
stabilizer. If your goal, in using
biguanide as a sanitizer, was to avoid the conditions and odors associated with
most chlorine pools and to improve conditions, a
salt
chlorine generator would be an ideal choice. It is still
chlorine, but without the usual negatives: ODOR, STORAGE, HANDLING AND
MEASURING.
Your filter should be OK and its performance will probably improve, if you
switch from biguanide to another sanitizer. I hope that this information
proves to be helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster 7/14/2007
►
Amazing Reappearing "Rusty" Stains?
I live in South Florida. I recently acid washed my inground pool, which
uses a copper oxidation electrode system rather than chlorine. The surface looked
great and I refilled and balanced the pool; and then about 4-5 days later small
rust stains began to appear only on the shallow end. I was told that it
may be rust leaching from impurities in the marcite surface, but I don't know if
this is true. I can scrub them out manually with a scrubber stone but they
come back. Is there anything I can do to remove them permanently? I was
thinking of spot painting over them because I don't want to resurface the pool.
None of the pool centers know how to handle this because of the copper
mineralizer system I have. I really need and would appreciate your
advice. Thank You!
Mike F., Florida, 5/3/2004
There are problems with dark spots on plaster finishes, but this doesn't sound
like that. It sounds like fertilizer granules. Is it possible?
The problem the dealer is having is that if you use a metal treatment, it may
compromise the copper electrode function. The only way to treat the metals
is to add a metal treatment. That will negate the copper algaecidal
function, unless a suitable metal treatment is used. To provide algaecidal activity, you could use a polymer based
algaecide for a few months, while the copper becomes re-established. This
is one of the limitations in dealing with
mineral
sanitizers or ionizers, that utilize copper, and having a
heavy metal problem. There are metal treatment products that are safe to use, so be
sure to check with the dealer.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/3/2004
The algaecide treatment and
shock treatment, combined with chlorine tabs on each spot, successfully
removed the stains. I also pressure washed to clear the top of the
screen enclosure of debris. The problem is, after the pool looked great,
when I went to bed. This morning new spots appeared, about 50 of them,
in the same areas, but not the same spots. I have no idea what's going
on, but I'm frustrated as hell. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks.
Mike, 5/5/2004
The stains
are not copper or another metal or else the chlorine would not have removed
them. The plaster spot problem that has been widely reported does not
respond to chlorine. That only leaves algae or some organic type of
stain. Have you ever added a metal treatment? Is
your pool overhung by a tree, such as a live oak or black olive?
If chlorine was the solution, it seems that the oxidation function is
inadequate, on a 24-hour basis. Perhaps, you should simply maintain the pool on
a very low level of chlorine, so that there is always some present, for
those times with active oxygen is not being produced. Using bromine would be even better, as it
seems more effective against certain problem types of algae. It would be
safe to assume that the copper is not able to control the problem, possibly
due to the addition of metal treatments. Add a polymer algaecide and
continue for a few months. I suggest that you shock the pool, raising
the free chlorine level to 5-10 PPM. Use the brush and improvement
should be forthcoming, in a day or so. Good luck.
Alan,
5/7/2004
Yes! There is a live
oak above that area of the pool. Has that been known to cause this
or similar problems? No, I have not used a metal treatment because
the manufacturer of the copper system said not to. I agree it must
be something organic, but damned if I know what it is, particularly since
the stains show up so quickly.
Mike, 5/8/2004
Blame it all on the tree. As far as I am concerned the best live oak
tree is a dead one. The same for black olive trees. I have a live
oak in front of my house. It makes a mess of the lawn and stains the
driveway. The state of Florida makes it difficult to take this native tree
down. Certain times of the year the problems are worse. If you can
legally take it down, I would do it. Your problem is this. The
oxidation function produces forms of active oxygen that last only for a short
time, after the unit is shut off. Leaves, seeds and bits of debris from
that tree will leach tannins. Without an oxidizer or chlorine present, the
tannins appear as rust colored stains. It has nothing to do with "iron
rust" and it is not a metal stain. Tannins can be destroyed by chlorine and
other oxidizers. You have several options. Get rid of the tree.
Use a very low level chlorine as a backup sanitizer/oxidizer. Lastly, a
robotic pool cleaner can micro
filter and vacuum up the bottom, so that there is little or no debris to
cause staining. For more information on this product go to:
www.smartpool.com
This does explain why the stains keep reappearing!
Alan, 5/9/2004
Alan, hi! This is great because at least now I know what I'm dealing
with. Before it was a crap shoot. The tree is a neighbor's tree but
branches hang over my pool and (with some difficulty I fear) I'm going to find a
way to cut them back. I do use an automatic pool cleaner already and
the tannin stains did only seem to appear, in the six hours the motor was off at
night. I'm grateful that at least we were able to diagnose the
cause. Now for a solution! Thanks again!
Mike, 5/9/2004
Hi Alan, I followed
your advice and had the tree cut back away from the screen enclosure.
Shocked the pool, and the stains disappeared permanently! I plan on
keeping a little chlorine present, just as a backup. Thanks so
much for your patience and help. You have a great website!
Mike, 6/4/2004
Editors Note. In the final analysis it was simply a matter of
there being no chlorine or oxidizer present during the overnight period.
The problem was not attributable to copper staining. It was simply a matter of
fine particles of live oak tree debris falling into the pool and leaching
tannins, after the pool was shut off at night. The solution:
maintain a low level of chlorine, while using this copper-oxidation unit. 5/10/2004
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