► Copper Sulfate As An Algaecide?

A friend of mine swears that copper sulfate is a great algaecide.  He says that it is cheap and that it works.   His pool does look good. What do you say?

Paul A., Danbury, CT, 5/24/2004

Your friend is partially correct.  It is an effective algaecide and it is cheap. BUT IT SHOULD NEVER BE USED IN A SWIMMING POOL!   Copper sulfate is used as an algaecide in the treatment of surface waters such as reservoirs, lakes and ponds.  It should not be used in swimming pools and, so far as I know, no swimming pool chemical marketer or packager offers it for sale, in the form of 100% copper sulfate..  At the pH of a typical swimming pool and in the presence of chlorine or other oxidizing agents, copper (from copper sulfate, natural sources or corrosion of heaters) can and will cause staining and discoloration of pool surfaces and hair.  The copper products used, as swimming pool algaecides, are typically in a chelated (stabilized) form.  These specially formulated products avoid the problems associated with copper sulfate.  Some products use copper sulfate in a  slow-release and/or diluted form.  Everything considered, it not the best choice!  I hope that you will heed my advice.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.   Alan Schuster, 5/24/2004

► Algaecide Choice With A Salt Chlorinator?

I think that I have a  greenish mustard algae.  It can be vacuumed and brushed quite easily. Shocking the pool does seem to help. The problem is that it comes back again and again.  My pool is an 18 foot round vinyl pool.   What products are best to use so that I can avoid this problem?   Thanks.

Floyd D., Brunswick, GA, 7/23/2008

Mustard algae can be treated in two effective ways and, in your vinyl pool, both are good.  Chelated Copper Algaecides are effective in controlling this type of algae.  The chelated types of copper algaecide will require additions every week or two and this will certainly help, in your case.  Your sanitizer level, chlorine I assume, is probably not being maintained adequately at all times.  Make sure that you maintain a 1-3 PPM level of Free Chlorine, at all times.  Do this and it is unlikely that you will see the mustard algae problem returning, with any regularity.  If you don't have an automatic pool cleaner, consider adding a suction-side cleaner to your skimmer intake.  These cleaners are quite affordable and are very effective at cleaning and improving the water circulation on the bottom.  In the case of your above ground pool, it can act as a main drain, while operating.  Another effective treatment for mustard algae is the use of one of those "Yellow" Products, containing sodium bromide.   With a shock treatment, it will generate bromine, which seems to be especially effective against mustard algae.  When shocking a pool make sure that you add enough product and it is added frequently enough to boost the Free Chlorine level to 5-10 PPM.  Make sure that the pH is 7.2-7.6. Try to maintain at least 1-3 PPM, through the overnight period.  Keep the filter operating continuously, until the problem is controlled.  Once the problem is controlled resume normal chlorination and filtration.   Poor circulation creates dead zones that promote algae growth.  Better circulation assures better distribution of the sanitizing chemicals and makes algae problems less likely.  The Circulator is an easy-to-install device that will dramatically improve circulation and eliminate any dead spots.  I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/23/2008

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► Copper Algaecide Use?

I have been using a copper algaecide and our water is extremely clean.  However, our stairs develop a yellow stain (it comes off, but keeps returning every few days).  Could this be a result of the product?  Also, I have researched copper sulfate, and the results indicate it should not be used in pools at 100% concentration.  However, the Canadian government has okayed the use of this copper algaecide and deemed the 4% concentration acceptable.  Do you agree?  I want to keep using the product as is greatly reduces the upkeep.  Thanks and great web site!

D.T., Windsor, Ontario, Canada, 8/11/2005

► Freshly Finished Plaster Pool?

Could a maintenance dose of 1.5 oz a copper algaecide every other week for algae control could have caused staining or gray streaks?  The plaster was about 2-3 months old, when added.  Thanks.

Lenny M., 10/29/2004

The use of copper algaecides should be avoided in gunite pools, for at least 6 months after the pool was been plastered.  This allows for the surface to completely cure.  Otherwise staining is a possibility.  If you want to use an algaecide, I would suggest a polymer formula, as it is both non-metallic and non-foaming.  I hope that this information will prove to be useful.  If askalanaquestion.com was helpful in providing information, please tell your friends and dealers about the website. 

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 10/30/2004

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► Added Too Much Algaecide?

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/26/2003

► About Sodium Bromide?

I am looking to find some info on Sodium Bromide.  I am a pool professional and I know it works for killing algae, yet I don't know what the actual process is for killing it.  I have been told everything from it opens up the algae to let the chlorine kill it to it enhances the chlorine and gives it faster and stronger killing ability.  Please let me know.  Thank you.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/20/2008

► How Do Phosphate Eliminators Work?

A local pool store suggested a phosphate eliminator, as means of controlling algae.  What actually is a phosphate eliminator?

R. Z., Portland, OR, 6/11/2003

Phosphate eliminators are based on a lanthanum (a  rare earth element) compound.  Upon addition to swimming pool water, the lanthanum reacts with the phosphates in the water and precipitates them from solution.  The lanthanum reduces the phosphate concentration from parts per million to parts per billion.  A phosphate test can be used to confirm the effectiveness of the product.   Phosphates are a necessary nutrient for algae growth and their nearly total removal from the water can impede their growth.  The phosphate eliminators can be used with chlorine, algaecides and most pool chemicals.   Used properly and in conjunction with sanitizers, phosphate eliminators can add another layer of algae control.  They must be added periodically to keep the phosphate levels depressed, because swimmers and their associated wastes are a source of new phosphates.  The presence of phosphates and nitrates can accelerate algae growth and increase the chlorine demand.  Some dealers can perform these tests and it can be worthwhile.  Nitrates can't be easily removed, but are less of a problem, if the phosphates are eliminated.  I hope that I have explained the product to your satisfaction.   Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/11/2003

► Which Pool Algaecide To Choose?

I was in the pool store the other day to pick up some algaecide.  I couldn't believe the number of different types.  The prices went from about $5.00 to over 20 bucks.  How do I know which one is best for my pool?   A 24' above the ground pool.  Thanks.

Charles H., Clearwater, FL, 6/12/2004

You're right there are a lot of choices.   Here's an illustration:  if you're sick and need an antibiotic, taking aspirin won't necessarily help.  Some algaecides are cost effective and can be used to treat the everyday varieties of algae:  "quat" and chelated copper algaecides are in this category.  Others algaecides are more costly, but are highly effective in the treatment of resistant algae problems:  Polymer (polyquat) and Silver Algaecides fall into this category.  Being that your above ground pool is vinyl, I suggest that you consider a chelated copper algaecide:  this product is very cost-effective and provides excellent results against blue-green and yellow-mustard types of algae.  If in the future, you encounter a resistant type, a switch to another product can be made. Your local pool professional can help you with the best choice for your needs.  I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/12/2004

Every algaecide on the market is used with vinyl pools, so far as I know.  If your water contains iron and other metals, I would not use copper algaecides.  If the water is very hard, I would not use copper algaecides.  Otherwise, a quality copper algaecide is very cost effective in a vinyl pool.  I would not use algaecides that contain dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride or similar sounding names, in any pool, because they usually lead to foaming problems and are not always effective.  They are inexpensive and that makes them popular.  Sometimes, when functioning as a wetting agent, they make of algaecidal treatments  more effective. Polymer algaecides are expensive, by comparison, but they work well, do not foam, can't stain and can be used in all types of pools.  Price limits their popularity.  Silver algaecides are relatively expensive, but effective.  There are some staining issues, but usually not in a vinyl pool.  The best algaecide is one that works.  Your call-your budget!  I hope that I have helped you better understand the choices and differences.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/3/2007

► Borates And Algae Control?

Hi Alan.  Great web site!  What is your opinion on the use of sodium tetraborate for algae control in an inground pool?  I believe the release of boron into the water prevents algae from growing or so they claim. It also spikes the pH up quite rapidly, which is why they sell it in a kit form which includes proper amounts of pH down material.

Tim C., 4/2/2005

The borate products work by lowering the levels of carbon dioxide in the pool water.  Low levels impedes algae growth.  The pH is just over 9, so that is why pH reducer must be added.  There is little doubt that this product can help in the control of algae.  However, you will still have to maintain a proper sanitizer level, for ideal pool conditions.  For those times when the chlorine level bottoms out, this product might provide some leeway.  If you could maintain adequate chlorine levels at all times, you might not see a significant benefit from this product.  Most chlorine products are added in a intermittent basis or haphazardly and, under those circumstances, borates add an additional safety margin.  However, newer sanitizing methods such as salt chlorine generators maintain excellent control of algae by providing a steady, adequate and almost effortless application of chlorine to the pool.  If you are looking towards improving algae control and water quality, I would look in this direction.  I hope that this information proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/2/2005

► Copper Algaecide?

I used to treat my pool every year in the beginning with this copper 7% product that took all the algae's away (blue, black, green, red, yellow, etc.)  It was liquid and it took about two to three cap fulls to clear the water in a matter of hours. Have you heard of this stuff or do you know something similar to it I could purchase somewhere?  Thanks.

We just moved into a house with an in-ground swimming pool.  Our old house had an above-ground pool.  One of the things that I disliked about the old pool was the foaming caused by using an algaecide.  I don't want problems to ruin the look of this pool or end up with green water.  Are there algaecides that don't foam?  Willing to listen.

Frank R., Wayne, NJ, 7/17/2004

Actually, there are algaecides that do not cause pool water foaming.  The best choices are:  polymer (polyquat) algaecides or chelated copper algaecides.  The polymer algaecides are more expensive, but are highly effective against most types of algae.  The chelated copper algaecides are very cost-effective and are excellent in vinyl pools and for use against the common varieties of algae, as well as mustard algae.  Most algaecides will help solve problems with green water.  While it is true that the very common "quat" algaecides do have a tendency to cause the pool to foam, it is not normally problematic or unsightly.  In those instances, where unsightly pool water foaming is occurring, it is highly probable that there is an air leak in the suction line(s).  A pinhole-sized leak can allow air to be sucked in and this, in turn, leads to aeration and foam.    Something worth checking into?  I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/17/2004

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