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"Pool Algae Control Products"
Products
to provide more effective algae control & prevention.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
askalanaquestion.com |
Various Algae Treatments &
Considerations
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Scroll down to browse
through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
Please access the Pool Problems Page and other links, at the top of
every page, for additional information.
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Algae Control Products have evolved to more than just the
traditional algaecides. The familiar algaecides include such active
ingredients as: Quaternary (Quats) Ammonium Compounds, Polymers, Chelated
Copper, Silver Compounds and various combinations. Phosphate Eliminators
based on Lanthanum can be used to help "starve" algae into submission.
Products based on Sodium Bromide or Ammonium Sulfate are being used to help
control and eliminate problematic types of algae, mold and slime.
Choosing the right product is important because effectiveness can vary based
upon the problem and the water chemistry.
Clicking
on the underlined and highlighted
"keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will
give you access to additional information on that topic or product.
Please refer to the Glossary, if
there are terms or phrases that require explanation. For an alphabetized listing
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Table of Contents link, on top of
every page.
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More information about The Circulator
can be found by clicking on the center image, above.
Better water circulation helps to
eliminate the dead zones that promote algae growth and
improves the distribution of chemicals and heat. Simple to
install and affordably priced. Suitable for inground and most
above ground pools.
More information about some new & unique products, for above ground & inground
pools, can be found by visiting
The Website Stores.
You'll never know what you'll find and that's
always fun.
Be better prepared and avoid costly problems!
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►
Copper
Sulfate As An Algaecide?
A friend of mine
swears that copper sulfate is a great algaecide. He says that it is cheap
and that it works. His pool does look good. What do you say?
Paul A., Danbury,
CT, 5/24/2004
Your friend is
partially correct. It is an effective algaecide and it is cheap.
BUT
IT SHOULD NEVER BE USED IN A SWIMMING POOL!
Copper sulfate is used as an algaecide in the treatment of surface waters such
as reservoirs, lakes and ponds. It should not be used in swimming pools
and, so far as I know, no swimming pool chemical marketer or packager offers it
for sale, in the form of 100% copper sulfate.. At the pH of a typical swimming pool and in the presence of
chlorine or other oxidizing agents, copper (from copper sulfate, natural sources
or corrosion of heaters) can and will cause staining and discoloration of pool
surfaces and hair. The copper products used, as swimming pool algaecides,
are typically in a chelated (stabilized) form. These specially formulated
products avoid the problems associated with copper sulfate. Some products
use copper sulfate in a slow-release and/or diluted form. Everything
considered, it not the best choice! I hope that
you will heed my advice. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/24/2004
► Algaecide Choice
With A Salt Chlorinator?
We have a saltwater chlorine
generator and have been delighted with its convenience and low operating cost,
not to mention avoiding the hazards of chlorinating chemicals. We have gotten
conflicting advice on the proper algaecides. Some say copper compounds are
fine, others maintain that their use will damage the electrolytic cell by
plating out metallic copper on the electrodes. My long-ago college chemistry
courses suggest that plating is a possibility. What is your take on the
matter. Thanks!
George H., 6/18/2009
Good old
college chemistry! If your
salt chlorine generator
is self cleaning, scaling and plating are usually not a problem. Except in very
hard water situations, I would not recommend a copper algaecide. You
should be able to use any algaecide that is suitable for use in a chlorine
pool. I would not use the sodium bromide algaecides, as they can shorten the
life of the salt cell, by increasing the amount of chlorine that needs to be
produced. The
AquaPill Algaecide
would be a good choice, as it is non-foaming, non-staining, saltwater compatible
and easy-to-use. I hope that this information will prove to be useful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/19/2009
►
Recurring
Mustard Algae?
I think that I have a
greenish mustard algae. It can be vacuumed and brushed quite easily.
Shocking the pool does seem to help. The problem is that it comes back again and
again. My pool is an 18 foot round vinyl pool. What products
are best to use so that I can avoid this problem? Thanks.
Floyd D., Brunswick, GA,
7/23/2008
Mustard algae can
be treated in two effective ways and, in your vinyl pool, both are good.
Chelated Copper Algaecides are effective in controlling this type o f algae.
The chelated types of copper algaecide will require additions every week or two
and this will certainly
help, in your case. Your sanitizer level, chlorine
I assume, is probably not being maintained adequately at all times. Make
sure that you maintain a 1-3 PPM level of Free Chlorine, at all times. Do
this and it is unlikely that you will see the mustard algae problem returning,
with any regularity. If you don't have an automatic pool cleaner, consider
adding a suction-side cleaner to your skimmer intake. These cleaners are
quite affordable and are very effective at cleaning and improving the water
circulation on the bottom. In the case of your above ground pool, it can act as a main drain, while operating.
Another
effective treatment for mustard algae is the use of one of those
"Yellow" Products, containing sodium bromide. With a shock
treatment, it will generate bromine, which seems to be especially effective
against mustard algae. When shocking a pool make sure that you add enough
product and it is added frequently enough to boost the Free Chlorine level to
5-10 PPM. Make sure that the pH is 7.2-7.6. Try to maintain at least 1-3
PPM, through the overnight period. Keep the filter operating continuously,
until the problem is controlled. Once the problem is controlled resume
normal chlorination and filtration. Poor circulation creates dead
zones that promote algae growth. Better circulation assures better
distribution of the sanitizing chemicals and makes algae problems less likely.
The Circulator is an easy-to-install
device that will dramatically improve circulation and eliminate any dead spots.
I hope that this information will prove
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 7/23/2008
► Copper Algaecide
Use?
I have been using a copper
algaecide and our water is extremely clean. However, our stairs develop a
yellow stain (it comes off, but keeps returning every few days). Could
this be a result of the product? Also, I have researched copper sulfate,
and the results indicate it should not be used in pools at 100% concentration.
However, the Canadian government has okayed the use of this copper algaecide and
deemed the 4% concentration acceptable. Do you agree? I want to keep
using the product as is greatly reduces the upkeep. Thanks and great web
site!
D.T., Windsor, Ontario, Canada,
8/11/2005
Copper sulfate should not be used
in a pool! You are not using copper sulfate. The product
is a chelated copper algaecide that contains 4% elemental copper. It is in
a form that is safe to use and helps avoid staining and discoloration.
This product and all other swimming pool sanitizers are subject to government
regulations, both in Canada and the U.S. In order to continue manitai9ning
good water condition, you should maintain a proper level of a sanitizer such as
chlorine or bromine. The use of algaecides provide an additional
layer of algae control.
The Circulator is a circulation booster
insert, that dramatically eliminates dead zones and makes the water come alive.
You'll get better distribution of sanitizers and that should help minimize algae
and other related problems. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/12/2005
► Freshly Finished
Plaster Pool?
Could a maintenance dose of 1.5 oz a copper
algaecide every other week for algae control could have caused staining or gray
streaks? The plaster was about 2-3 months old, when added. Thanks.
Lenny M., 10/29/2004
The use of
copper algaecides should be avoided in gunite pools, for at least 6 months after
the pool was been plastered. This allows for the surface to completely cure.
Otherwise staining is a possibility. If you want to use an algaecide, I would
suggest a polymer formula, as it is both non-metallic and non-foaming. I
hope that this information will prove to be useful. If askalanaquestion.com was
helpful in providing information, please tell your friends and dealers about the
website.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 10/30/2004
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► Added Too
Much Algaecide?
Dear Alan, we dropped a bottle of
algaecide into the deep end of the pool. Our 10,000 gallon (marcite) pool
now has 16 ounces of a copper based algaecide instead of 2 ounces. We have tried
partially draining the pool and refilling, running the filter 24 hours, and of
course, cleaning the filter. We still have an amazingly green pool and our
neighbor said the pool will stain too, but he didn't have any answers. Our pool
store, well, hasn't been overly helpful. Do you have any advice? We haven't found
any other questions like this online yet. Can you help?
The N. Family, 5/25/2003
Just because you added too much doesn't have to mean
that problems will, inevitably, result. Today, virtually all copper algaecides are
based on chelated or complexed forms of copper: the purpose being to avoid
staining and discoloration. In order to
reduce this possibility, because of the overdosing, you should add 3-4 doses of
a quality mineral treatment, as soon as possible.
These products are formulated to chelate (complex) heavy metals, such as iron or
copper. Once added the possibility of adverse effects should
diminish. Good luck and I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/26/2003
► About Sodium
Bromide?
I am looking to find some info on Sodium
Bromide. I am a pool professional and I know it works for killing algae,
yet I don't know what the actual process is for killing it. I have been
told everything from it opens up the algae to let the chlorine kill it to it
enhances the chlorine and gives it faster and stronger killing ability.
Please let me know. Thank you.
Mike in San Diego, 5/20/2008
You gave me about 5 reasons
and all are incorrect. It is really not that complicated.
When you add the sodium bromide and follow with a shock treatment, the bromide
is converted into hypobromous acid: the active sanitizing form of
bromine. Certain
types of algae such as yellow-mustard algae and bacterial conditions such as
water mold or "pink" algae appear to more vulnerable to bromine than
to chlorine. These problematic conditions, that seemed resistant to shock treatment,
are controlled and eliminated by the action of bromine. It doesn't
necessarily work as well against all types of algae and bacterial conditions,
but against certain chlorine-resistant problems it is very effective.
While it will help solve the problem and make the water smell an d be less
irritating, it will increase the chlorine usage. LaMotte has
introduced a
Sodium Bromide Insta Test Strip. I
hope that I have shed some light on the subject.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/20/2008 ►
Clear, But No Chlorine Reading?
I believe my pool dealer had me try 5 lbs of
sodium bromide, a week and half ago. After adding 4 more gallons of liquid
chlorine, I finally got rid off the persistent algae problem. The weird
thing is it's crystal clear. No slime on the walls or under the water and
no haze. The test kit shows no chlorine and I am concerned. I have a
3 inch tablet floating and I put 1-2 cups of granular in daily. Any
suggestions on why?
Peggy, 6/14/2007
The mystery is over. The
addition of the sodium bromide converted the pool to a bromine pool. All the
chlorine is being converted to bromine. Evidently, the type of algae you had
was not responding to chlorine and this chemical addition helped to solve the
problem. The goods news is that the water will feel and smell better. The
downside is that it is a bromine pool and it is no longer protected against the
Sun's UV rays, as is stabilized chlorine. Your usage will continue to be
higher, until the bromides dissipate over the years or the water is replaced.
Your water is now clear and chlorine wasn't working, so this is an improvement.
I suggesting adding chlorine , after the Sun's goes down. Liquid chlorine would
be the most cost effective and unlikely to cause long term buildup problems. To
reduce the pool's overall chlorine/bromine requirements, I would add the
FROG mineral sanitizer.
It can be used with chlorine or bromine and will help provide sanitation,
especially when the chlorine/bromine level bottoms out during the height of a
sunny day. You've changed the way the pool is being sanitized and can make the
best of it and get even more pleasant swimming conditions, as a result of this
change. I hope this puts your mind at ease. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/14/2007
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►
How Do
Phosphate Eliminators Work?
A local pool store
suggested a phosphate eliminator, as means of controlling algae. What
actually is a phosphate eliminator?
R. Z., Portland, OR,
6/11/2003
Phosphate
eliminators are based on a lanthanum (a rare earth element) compound.
Upon addition to swimming pool water, the lanthanum reacts with the phosphates
in the water and precipitates them from solution. The lanthanum reduces
the phosphate concentration from parts per million to parts per billion. A
phosphate
test can
be used to confirm the effectiveness of the product. Phosphates are
a necessary nutrient for algae growth and their nearly total removal from the
water can impede their growth. The phosphate eliminators can be used with
chlorine, algaecides and most pool chemicals.
Used properly
and in conjunction with sanitizers, phosphate eliminators can add another layer
of algae control. They must be
added periodically to keep the phosphate levels depressed, because swimmers and
their associated wastes are a source of new phosphates.
The presence of phosphates and
nitrates can accelerate algae growth and increase the chlorine demand.
Some dealers can perform these tests and it can be worthwhile. Nitrates
can't be easily removed, but are less of a problem, if the phosphates are
eliminated. I
hope that I have explained the product to your satisfaction. Enjoy
the summer.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/11/2003
►
Which
Pool Algaecide To Choose?
I was in the
pool store the other day to pick up some algaecide. I couldn't believe the
number of different types. The prices went from about $5.00 to over 20
bucks. How do I know which one is best for my pool? A 24'
above the ground pool. Thanks.
Charles H.,
Clearwater, FL, 6/12/2004
You're right
there are a lot of choices. Here's an illustration: if you're
sick and need an antibiotic, taking aspirin won't necessarily help. Some
algaecides are cost effective and can be used to treat the everyday varieties of
algae: "quat" and chelated copper algaecides are in this
category. Others algaecides are more costly, but are highly effective in
the treatment of resistant algae problems: Polymer (polyquat) and Silver
Algaecides fall into this category. Being that your above ground pool is vinyl, I suggest that you consider a chelated copper
algaecide: this product is very cost-effective and provides excellent
results against blue-green and yellow-mustard types of algae. If in the
future, you encounter a resistant type, a switch to another product can be made.
Your local pool professional can help you with the best choice for your needs.
I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/12/2004
►
Vinyl Pool Algaecide?
I have a inground pool with
a vinyl liner. I have been told conflicting ideas about algaecides.
Can I use any type of algaecide with a vinyl liner? One company told
me I needed to buy a more expensive algaecide for pools with a vinyl liner.
Is this company just wanting to charge more for a more expensive product?
Is any algaecide ok to use with a vinyl liner? Thank you.
JR, 5/3/2007
Every algaecide on the market is used with vinyl pools,
so far as I know. If your water contains iron and other metals, I would
not use copper algaecides. If the water is very hard, I would not use copper
algaecides. Otherwise, a quality copper algaecide is very cost effective in a
vinyl pool. I would not use algaecides that contain dimethyl benzyl ammonium
chloride or similar sounding names, in any pool, because they usually lead to
foaming problems and are not always effective. They are inexpensive and that
makes them popular. Sometimes, when functioning as a wetting agent, they make
of algaecidal treatments more effective. Polymer algaecides are expensive,
by comparison, but they work well, do not foam, can't stain and can be used in
all types of pools. Price limits their popularity. Silver algaecides are
relatively expensive, but effective. There are some staining issues, but
usually not in a vinyl pool. The best algaecide is one that works.
Your call-your budget! I hope that I have helped you better understand the
choices and differences.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
5/3/2007
► Borates And Algae
Control?
Hi
Alan. Great web site! What is your opinion on the use of sodium
tetraborate for algae control in an inground pool? I believe the release of
boron into the water prevents algae from growing or so they claim. It also
spikes the pH up quite rapidly, which is why they sell it in a kit form which
includes proper amounts of pH down material.
Tim C., 4/2/2005
The borate
products work by lowering the levels of carbon dioxide in the pool water.
Low levels impedes algae growth. The pH is just over 9, so that is why pH
reducer must be added. There is little doubt that this product can help in
the control of algae. However, you will still have to maintain a proper
sanitizer level, for ideal pool conditions. For those times when the
chlorine level bottoms out, this product might provide some leeway. If you
could maintain adequate chlorine levels at all times, you might not see a
significant benefit from this product. Most chlorine products are added in
a intermittent basis or haphazardly and, under those circumstances, borates add
an additional safety margin. However, newer sanitizing methods such as
salt chlorine generators
maintain excellent control of algae by providing a steady, adequate and almost
effortless application of chlorine to the pool. If you are looking towards
improving algae control and water quality, I would look in this direction.
I hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/2/2005
► Copper Algaecide?
I used to
treat my pool every year in the beginning with this copper 7% product that took
all the algae's away (blue, black, green, red, yellow, etc.) It was liquid
and it took about two to three cap fulls to clear the water in a matter of
hours. Have you heard of this stuff or do you know something similar to it I
could purchase somewhere? Thanks.
Bill M., 4/6/2008
What you are
describing is a 7% copper algaecide, although the concentrations may vary.
It is probably a private-label product.
The formula is usually based on a copper
triethanolamine complex, in order to avoiding staining and discoloration
problems. I don't
know about capfuls: the dose is typically a few ounces per 10,000 gallons.
It is a product of choice for yellow-mustard or blue-green algae. It is
used less often for other types. While it is popular in vinyl pools, its
use in gunite pools is limited and should be avoided, if the pool is less than 6
months old. Most major product lines include a product of this type. So
while you may not locate the specific brand, you should be able to find a
replacement. By itself, it can help kill and prevent algae. To solve
a problem, it has to be used with shock treatment. I hope that I have been
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/6/2008
►
Should I Add Algaecide?
I had a vinyl inground pool
installed last fall and it was opened this spring for the first time. The
water is under control and clear. Is there a need to add algaecide as a
preventative measure or should it only be added when necessary/required?
Thanks.
Michael, Montreal, Canada, 5/10/2007
The best time to actually add an algaecide is
before you need it. That way, perhaps, you won't need it.
It is arguable that if you maintain proper control of the water chemistry,
an algaecide is not necessary. I would never go out of my way
to add a quat algaecide: dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, as it can
cause foaming and interfere with DE filters. A polymer algaecide
is always a good choice, but it is expensive. Copper algaecides are
cost effective and are, generally, a good choice for a vinyl pool. In
short, take care of the water and the algae should not be a problem.
Enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/10/2007
►
Algae
Control Without Foaming?
We just moved into
a house with an in-ground swimming pool. Our old house had an above-ground
pool. One of the things that I disliked about the old pool was the foaming
caused by using an algaecide. I don't want problems to ruin the look of this
pool or end up with green water.
Are there algaecides that don't foam? Willing to listen.
Frank R., Wayne,
NJ, 7/17/2004
Actually,
there are algaecides that do not cause pool water foaming. The best choices are:
polymer (polyquat) algaecides or chelated copper algaecides. The polymer
algaecides are more expensive, but are highly effective against most types of
algae. The chelated copper algaecides are very cost-effective and are
excellent in vinyl pools and for use against the common varieties of algae, as
well as mustard algae. Most algaecides will help solve problems with green
water. While it is true that the very
common "quat" algaecides do have a tendency to cause the pool to foam, it is not
normally problematic or unsightly. In those instances, where unsightly
pool water foaming is occurring, it is highly probable that there is an air leak
in the suction line(s).
A pinhole-sized leak can allow air to be sucked in and this, in turn, leads to
aeration and foam. Something worth checking into? I
hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/17/2004
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issues, maintain more optimum bathing conditions and better avoid algae problems.
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