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Optimizing chemistry, improving
circulation and eliminating
phosphates!!! |
When the
water chemistry is out of balance, the
likelihood of algae growth increases and
the growth of sanitizer-resistant
strains, due to impaired sanitation, can
be the result. A
ColorQ, All-Digital Water Tester
can perform all of the common pool water
tests, eliminates the color-matching and
guesswork. There is a model, for
every pool testing need. Better
Circulation helps make everything work
more effectively. The
Circulator is a return jet
replacement fitting, that improves
filtration, eliminates the dead zones that
promote algae growth. Phosphates and Nitrates
can increase the growth of algae and
make treatment more difficult, as both
are vital plant nutrients. Nitrate
removal is not practical, but phosphate
removal is easy enough to do.
Adding Pool
Refresh Total Trap will allow
you to vacuum and filter out phosphates
and make algae control more
effective. |
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If you have a pool or spa water testing
need, we should have the product.
►
Scroll down to read through some
Question & Answer information.
◄
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Alternative Pool Water Sanitizers |
When algae
is a frequent problem, it is the result
of inadequate sanitation. as well as
other factors. Adding some
backup sanitizing is important, as
chlorine level rise and fall, based on
pool usage and chemicals being added. Most pools
use some sort of chlorine. A
Salt
Chlorine Generator is definitely
a better way to do chlorine. Salt
chlorine generators are highly automated
and give you better control.
In-Line and no-installation-required
models are available. An
Ultraviolet Pool Sterilizer
kills 99.9% of the
microorganisms, passing through
the cell. It can kill
sanitizer-resistant pathogens
and is typically used with
chlorine or bromine. |
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If you have a pool or spa water testing
need, we should have the product.
►
Scroll down to read through some
Question & Answer information.
◄
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How to use algae control products in pools?
|
Algae Control
Products have evolved to more than just the
traditional algaecides. The familiar algaecides
include such active ingredients as: Quaternary
(Quats) Ammonium Compounds, Polymers, Chelated
Copper, Silver Compounds and various
combinations. Phosphate Eliminators based on
Lanthanum can be used to help "starve" algae
into submission. Products based on Sodium
Bromide or Ammonium Sulfate are being used to
help control and eliminate problematic types of
algae, mold and slime. Choosing the right
product is important because effectiveness can
vary based upon the problem and the water
chemistry. In
addition to proper sanitation, good circulation
is a must to help prevent algae growth in areas
with stagnant water or dead zones. The use
of The Circulator, as a
replacement for standard return jet fittings,
can dramatically improve circulation, better
distributing sanitizer to all areas of the pool. If problems arise, refer to the
Pool Problems
Page, as a source of problem-solving
information, broken down into various
categories. Scroll down the page and click on the linked
keywords,
catch phrases
or images, in the archived answers below, to access additional information, on that topic or product.
Do you know what's in
your water? If you're having problems, with
sanitation or water clarity, testing allows you to better
understand the chemistry and determine the cause of the
problem. Once understood, you can select the best
treatment option. Understanding the nature of the
problem, should be step one. For information about
our full selection of testing options, visit our
Test Equipment Store.
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Helpful,
Problem-Solving Information, in a question and
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White Spots Remain, After Black Mold Treatment?
We have a 16,000 gallon gunite pool colored with light grey
plaster. It is 3 years old and we are located near San
Antonio, TX. Last winter we got some black mold in
shade areas. We bought a black mold chemical online. It
worked great but left lots of white or bleached out specs
discoloring the service. It is not scale but discoloration.
They are small in size such as 1/4" but sadly there are lots
of them. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Jan L., San Antonio, TX 9/15/2018
It sounds like you
added trichlor granules, which are about 90% chlorine,
acidic and slow to dissolve. Your description suggests
that the surface was etched and that the gray colorant was
destroyed. If this is the case, it is not reversible.
Most likely the mold/algae grew in
that area, because circulation was poor and sanitizing
chemicals were not being delivered, to that area. Dead
zones promote growth of algae or mold. Improving
circulation is an important step, in help prevent a
recurrence. The
Pool Circulator replaces standard return jet fittings and
turns the return flow into a spiraling pattern, which
reaches areas throughout the pool. This delivers
sanitizing chemicals and makes algae/mold growth less
likely, by improving chemical distribution. Acid
washing the pool, MIGHT soften the color differences.
I hope that this information will be helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 9/15/2018
► Algaecide Choice With A Salt
Chlorinator?
We have a saltwater chlorine generator
and have been delighted with its convenience and low
operating cost, not to mention avoiding the hazards of
chlorinating chemicals. We have gotten conflicting advice on
the proper algaecides. Some say copper compounds are fine,
others maintain that their use will damage the electrolytic
cell by plating out metallic copper on the electrodes. My
long-ago college chemistry courses suggest that plating is a
possibility. What is your take on the matter. Thanks!
George H., 12/18/2020
Good old college chemistry! If your
salt chlorine generator
is self cleaning, scaling and plating are usually not a
problem. Except in very
hard water
situations, I would not recommend a copper algaecide. You
should be able to use any algaecide that is suitable for use
in a chlorine pool. I would not use the sodium bromide
algaecides, as they can shorten the life of the salt cell,
by increasing the amount of chlorine that needs to be
produced. A polymer formula product, would be my personal
choice, as it is non-foaming and non-staining.
Algaecide use is less likely to be required, if a salt
chlorine generator is used properly, to best effect. I hope the information is
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/19/2020
► Added Too Much Algaecide?
Dear Alan, we dropped a bottle of
algaecide into the deep end of the pool. Our 10,000 gallon
(marcite) pool now has 16 ounces of a copper based algaecide
instead of 2 ounces. We have tried partially draining the
pool and refilling, running the filter 24 hours, and of
course, cleaning the filter. We still have an amazingly
green pool and our neighbor said the pool will stain too,
but he didn't have any answers. Our pool store, well, hasn't
been overly helpful. Do you have any advice? We haven't
found any other questions like this online yet. Can you
help?
The N. Family, 5/25/2010
Just because you added too much doesn't have to mean that
problems will, inevitably, result. Today, virtually all
copper algaecides are based on chelated or complexed forms
of copper: the purpose being to avoid staining and
discoloration. In order to reduce this possibility, because
of the overdosing, you should add 1-2 doses of a quality
mineral treatment, such as phosphate-free
Liquid METALTRAP,
soon as possible. These products are formulated to chelate
(complex) heavy metals, such as iron or copper. Once added
the possibility of adverse effects should diminish. Another
better option is to us a METALTRAP Filter and some garden
hose and a small submersible pump. As the water is
recirculated, the copper will be removed. Stop when the
copper levels drops to a safer 0.3 PPM. Good luck and I hope
that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/26/2010
► Recurring Mustard Algae?
I think that I have a greenish mustard
algae. It can be vacuumed and brushed quite easily. Shocking
the pool does seem to help. The problem is that it comes
back again and again. My pool is an 18 x 36 foot vinyl
pool. What products are best to use so that I can avoid this
problem? Thanks.
Floyd D., Brunswick, GA, 7/23/2013
Mustard algae can be treated in two effective ways and, in
your vinyl pool, both are good. Chelated Copper Algaecides
are effective in controlling this type of algae. The
chelated types of copper algaecide will require additions
every week or two and this will certainly help, in your
case. Your sanitizer level, chlorine I assume, is probably
not being maintained adequately at all times. Make sure that
you maintain a 1-3 PPM level of Free
Chlorine, at all times. Do this and it is unlikely that you
will see the mustard algae problem returning, with any
regularity. Consider adding an automatic pool vacuum, of
some type. These cleaners are very effective at cleaning and
improving the water circulation on the bottom, while operating. Another effective
treatment for mustard algae is the use of a 60% polymer algaecide. When shocking a pool make sure that you add enough
product and it is added frequently enough to boost the Free
Chlorine level to 5-10 PPM. Make sure that the pH is
7.2-7.6. Try to maintain at least 1-3 PPM, through the
overnight period. Keep the filter operating continuously,
until the problem is controlled. Once the problem is
controlled resume normal chlorination and filtration. Poor
circulation creates dead zones that promote algae growth.
Better circulation assures better distribution of the
sanitizing chemicals and makes algae problems less likely.
The Pool Circulator is an easy-to-install device that will
dramatically improve circulation and eliminate any dead
spots. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/23/2013
► About Sodium Bromide?
I am looking to find some info on
Sodium Bromide. I am a pool professional and I know it works
for killing algae, yet I don't know what the actual process
is for killing it. I have been told everything from it opens
up the algae to let the chlorine kill it to it enhances the
chlorine and gives it faster and stronger killing ability.
Please let me know. Thank you.
Mike in San Diego, 5/20/2008
You gave me about 5 reasons and all are incorrect. It is
really not that complicated. When you add the sodium
bromide and follow with
a shock treatment, the bromide is
converted into hypobromous acid: the
active sanitizing form of bromine.
Certain types of algae such as
yellow-mustard
algae and bacterial conditions such
as water mold or "pink" algae appear
to more vulnerable to bromine than
to chlorine. These problematic
conditions, that seemed resistant to
shock treatment, are usually
controlled and eliminated by the
action of bromine. It doesn't
necessarily work, as well, against
all types of algae and bacterial
conditions, but against certain
chlorine-resistant problems it is
very effective. While it will help
solve the problem and make the water
smell and be less irritating, it
will increase the chlorine usage.
The recommended maximum level of
sodium bromide is 6 PPM, when used
in outdoor pools, due to the
potential of sodium bromate
formation, at high sodium bromide
levels. I would look into the use of
alternatives, such as
salt chlorine generators,
ozonators and
ultraviolet sterilizers. I
hope that I have shed some light on the subject.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/20/2008
► Copper Algaecide Use?
I have been using a copper algaecide
and our water is extremely clean. However, our stairs
develop a yellow stain (it comes off, but keeps returning
every few days). Could this be a result of the product?
Also, I have researched copper sulfate, and the results
indicate it should not be used in pools at 100%
concentration. However, the Canadian government has okayed
the use of this copper algaecide and deemed the 4%
concentration acceptable. Do you agree? I want to keep using
the product as is greatly reduces the upkeep. Thanks and
great web site!
D.T., Windsor, Ontario, Canada, 8/11/2012
Copper sulfate should not be used in a pool! You are not
using copper sulfate. The product is a chelated copper
algaecide that contains 4% elemental copper. It is in a form
that is safe to use and helps avoid staining and
discoloration. This product and all other swimming pool
sanitizers are subject to government regulations, both in
Canada and the U.S. In order to continue manitai9ning good
water condition, you should maintain a proper level of a
sanitizer such as chlorine or bromine. The use of algaecides
provide an additional layer of algae control.
The Pool Circulator
is a circulation booster insert,
that dramatically eliminates dead
zones and makes the water come
alive. You'll get better
distribution of sanitizers and that
should help minimize algae and other
related problems. I hope that I have
been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/12/2012
► Freshly Finished Plaster Pool?
Could a maintenance dose of 1.5 oz a
copper algaecide every other week for algae control could
have caused staining or gray streaks? The plaster was about
2-3 months old, when added. Thanks.
Lenny M., 10/29/2017
The use of copper algaecides should be avoided in gunite
pools, for at least 6 months after the pool was been
plastered. This allows for the surface to completely cure.
Otherwise staining is a possibility. If you want to use an
algaecide, I would suggest a polymer formula, as it is both
non-metallic and non-foaming. You should be able to remove
the stains and restore the appearance, using a
MetalTrap Stain Reversal Kit,
which contains everything required to dissolve the stains,
eliminate the stain-causing metals from the pool water and
help prevent a recurrence. I hope that this information
will prove to be useful. If this website was helpful in
providing information, please tell your friends and dealers.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/30/2017
► Clear Pool Water, But No Chlorine
Reading?
I believe my pool dealer had me try 5
lbs of sodium bromide, a week and half ago. After adding 4
more gallons of liquid chlorine, I finally got rid off the
persistent algae problem. The weird thing is it's crystal
clear. No slime on the walls or under the water and no haze.
The test kit shows no chlorine and I am concerned. I have a
3 inch tablet floating and I put 1-2 cups of granular in
daily. Any suggestions on why?
Peggy, 6/14/2016
The mystery is over. The addition of the sodium bromide
converted the pool to a bromine pool. All the chlorine is
being converted to bromine. Evidently, the type of algae you
had was not responding to chlorine and this chemical
addition helped to solve the problem. The goods news is that
the water will feel and smell better. The downside is that
it is a bromine pool and it is no longer protected against
the Sun's UV rays, as is stabilized chlorine. Your usage
will continue to be higher, until the bromides dissipate
over the years or the water is replaced. Your water is now
clear and chlorine wasn't working, so this is an
improvement. I suggesting adding chlorine, after the Sun's
goes down. Liquid chlorine would be the most cost effective
and unlikely to cause long term buildup problems. To reduce
the pool's overall chlorine/bromine requirements, I would
add a 60% polymer algaecide, which an be used with chlorine
or bromine and will help provide some sanitation, especially when
the chlorine or bromine level bottoms out during the height of
a sunny day. You've changed the way the pool is being
sanitized and can make the best of it and get even more
pleasant swimming conditions, as a result of this change.
Adding The Circulator will
dramatically improve circulation and chemical distribution
and should make a positive improvement. It simply
replaces standard "eyeball" return jet fittings. I
hope this puts your mind at ease. Enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/14/2016
► Should I Add Algaecide?
I had a vinyl inground pool installed
last fall and it was opened this spring for the first time.
The water is under control and clear. Is there a need to add
algaecide as a preventative measure or should it only be
added when necessary/required? Thanks.
Michael, Montreal, Canada, 5/10/2017
The best time to actually add an algaecide is before you
need it. That way, perhaps, you won't need it. It is
arguable that if you maintain proper control of the water
chemistry, an algaecide is not necessary. I would never go
out of my way to add a quat algaecide: dimethyl benzyl
ammonium chloride, as it can cause foaming and interfere
with DE filters. A polymer algaecide is always a good
choice, but it is expensive. Copper algaecides are cost
effective and are, generally, a good choice for a vinyl
pool. In short, take care of the water and the algae should
not be a problem. If you maintain a consistent and adequate
level of free chlorine, the need for algaecide is
diminished. Adding a
salt chlorine generator might be a step
worth taking. It is the better way to do chlorine. No
handling, no measuring product and no storage. Enjoy the
season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/10/2017
► Which Pool Algaecide To Choose?
I was in the pool store the other day to pick up some
algaecide. I couldn't believe the number of different types.
The prices went from about $5.00 to over 20 bucks. How do I
know which one is best for my pool? A 24' above the ground
pool. Thanks.
Charles H., Clearwater, FL, 6/12/2008
You're right there are a lot of choices. Here's an
illustration: if you're sick and need an antibiotic, taking
aspirin won't necessarily help. Some algaecides are cost
effective and can be used to treat the everyday varieties of
algae: "quat" and chelated copper algaecides are in this
category. Others algaecides are more costly, but are highly
effective in the treatment of resistant algae problems:
Polymer (polyquat) and Silver Algaecides fall into this
category. Being that your above ground pool is vinyl, I
suggest that you consider a chelated copper algaecide: this
product is very cost-effective and provides excellent
results against blue-green and yellow-mustard types of
algae. If in the future, you encounter a resistant type, a
switch to another product can be made. I
hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/12/2008
► Borates And Algae Control?
Hi Alan. Great web site! What is your
opinion on the use of sodium tetraborate for algae control
in an inground pool? I believe the release of boron into the
water prevents algae from growing or so they claim. It also
spikes the pH up quite rapidly, which is why they sell it in
a kit form which includes proper amounts of pH down
material.
Tim C., 4/2/2007
The borate products work by lowering the levels of carbon
dioxide in the pool water. Low levels impedes algae growth.
The pH is just over 9, so that is why pH reducer must be
added. There is little doubt that this product can help in
the control of algae. However, you will still have to
maintain a proper sanitizer level, for ideal pool
conditions. For those times when the chlorine level bottoms
out, this product might provide some leeway. If you could
maintain adequate chlorine levels at all times, you might
not see a significant benefit from this product. Most
chlorine products are added in a intermittent basis or
haphazardly and, under those circumstances, borates add an
additional safety margin. However, newer sanitizing methods
such as salt chlorine generators maintain excellent control
of algae by providing a steady, adequate and almost
effortless application of chlorine to the pool. If you are
looking towards improving algae control and water quality, I
would look in this direction. I hope that this information
proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/2/2007
► Vinyl Pool Algaecide?
I have a inground pool with a vinyl
liner. I have been told conflicting ideas about algaecides.
Can I use any type of algaecide with a vinyl liner? One
company told me I needed to buy a more expensive algaecide
for pools with a vinyl liner. Is this company just wanting
to charge more for a more expensive product? Is any
algaecide ok to use with a vinyl liner? Thank you.
JR, 5/3/2007
Every algaecide on the market is used with vinyl pools, so
far as I know. If your water contains iron and other metals,
I would not use copper
algaecides. If the water is very hard, I would not use
copper algaecides. Otherwise, a quality copper algaecide is
very cost effective in a vinyl pool. I would not use
algaecides that contain dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride or
similar sounding names, in any pool, because they usually
lead to foaming problems and are not always effective. They
are inexpensive and that makes them popular. Sometimes, when
functioning as a wetting agent, they make of algaecidal
treatments more effective. Polymer algaecides are expensive,
by comparison, but they work well, do not foam, can't stain
and can be used in all types of pools. Price limits their
popularity. Silver algaecides are relatively expensive, but
effective. There are some staining issues, but usually not
in a vinyl pool. The best algaecide is one that
works. Your call-your budget! I hope that I have helped you
better understand the choices and differences.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/3/2007
► Algae Control Without Foaming?
We just moved into a house with an
in-ground swimming pool. Our old house had an above-ground
pool. One of the things that I disliked about the old pool
was the foaming caused by using an algaecide. I don't want
problems to ruin the look of this pool or end up with green
water. Are there algaecides that don't foam? Willing to
listen.
Frank R., Wayne, NJ, 7/17/2012
Actually, there are algaecides that do not cause pool water
foaming. The best choices are: polymer (polyquat)
algaecides or chelated copper algaecides. The polymer
algaecides are more expensive, but are highly effective
against most types of algae. The chelated copper algaecides
are very cost-effective
and are excellent in vinyl pools and for use against the
common varieties of algae, as well as mustard algae. Most
algaecides will help solve problems with green water. While
it is true that the very common "quat" algaecides do have a
tendency to cause the pool to foam, it is not normally
problematic or unsightly. In those instances, where
unsightly pool water foaming is occurring, it is highly
probable that there is an air leak in the suction lines. A
pinhole-sized leak can allow air to be sucked in and this,
in turn, leads to aeration and foam. Something worth
checking into? I hope that I have been of
assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/17/2012
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better informed shopping!!! |
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Shipping is FREE* . . . within
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A $9.99
handling charge will apply
to Continental U.S. Orders,
under $75.00. Orders
outside of the Continental
U.S. may require some
additional charge, based on
quantity and destination.
Most products can be
shipped World-Wide. International
and orders outside of
Continental U.S. - see
comments on the ordering
pages. |
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Credit Cards and PayPal are accepted. |
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