► Cleaning A Cartridge Filter?

We just had a new pool installed and it has a cartridge filter.  How often should it be cleaned and how? Thanks.

Mike M., 6/24/2005

There is no set rule and it will vary with the season.  Usually, every 1-2 weeks or when the pressure rises to the point where the water flow has diminished.  Use a garden hose and spray the cartridge from the top down and it is being rotated on one end.  Simple enough, but a little on the wet side.  Depending on water chemistry the cartridge should be soaked in diluted acid or chlorine solution, according to the manufacturer's instruction.  If you would like to clean the filter cartridge better and with less effort, the Blaster Automatic Filter Cartridge Cleaner is the right product.  I hope this information will help.  Enjoy the pool.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/25/2005

► How Much Zeobrite Is Required?

If a pool filter system takes 6 bags of sand (300 pounds), how much Zeobrite does it require?  What size packages are available?  Is more better?  My filter is 3.0 cubic feet.  Will adding more Zeobrite better improve the performance? Thank You.

Richard B., 1/10/2005

You should require one-half of the weight of sand, given the fact that Zeobrite is much lighter than sand. Zeobrite is conveniently packaged in 25 and 50-pound bags.  More is not better. Just impractical!  Each 50 pound bag of Zeobrite is approximately 1 cubic foot.  This makes the calculation very easy.  In your case, you require 150 pounds or 3 cubic feet, which comes out to 3 of the 50-pound bags.  Clearly, the water quality will be greatly improved, by simply adding the recommended amount of Zeobrite.  Have a good season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 1/10/2005

► Filter Cleaning With Zeobrite Media?

I know that Zeobrite has to be regenerated with a salt solution at least once a season, but does it also have to be cleaned?  Thanks.

Ron C., Texas, 6/20/2006

The manufacturer of Zeobrite recommends cleaning the media with a soaking filter cleaner that removes scale and organic oil build-up at least once per year, as a good maintenance practice.  This is addition to the regeneration with a salt solution, that should be done at least once a year.  Other situations that would warrant cleaning the media would be after plaster dust is removed on a new in-ground gunite pool and in extremely high hardness conditions.  Zeobrite, being somewhat of a natural water softening mineral, will remove some calcium carbonate in high hardness conditions.  The cleaning will remove any scale build-up from these conditions.  A “Cleaning and Regeneration” product, specifically formulated for use with zeolite filter media is available at many pool professionals.  I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/20/2005

The Circulator:  circulation boosting accessory

► Effect On Backpressure?

I would like to add The Circulators to my pool.  I have a Sunheater solar system and I don't want to cause the backpressure to rise.  Can I add The Circulator, to each of the three returns.  Thanks for the chance to ask questions.

Frank M., Bonita Springs, FL., 3/13/2008

The Circulator will not increase the backpressure to any great extent, as determined by a leading pump/filter manufacturer.  Adding The Circulator Circulation Booster, to each of your returns (3) will help get the most out of your Sunheater Solar System, assure better distribution of chemicals an d eliminates the dead zones that promote algae growth.  I hope that you'll find the information helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster/ 3/13/2008

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► Zeobrite Media & Salt Chlorinators?

► Regenerating Zeobrite Filter Media?

Thanks for all the great info on your site!  We just replaced our sand in our filter with Zeobrite media.  The immediate improvement in water clarity was amazing!  I am wondering if there is anything we need to do different with pool care, chemicals, etc now that we are using this. Each spring when we open our pool, we use a super floc. (we have a mesh security cover). Will we still be able to use this or would that not be advisable now with the Zeobrite.  Just asking to be prepared for next year.  Also should we still be using a clarifier weekly, as we have been for the past several years.  We have read that the Zeobrite needs to be regenerated with salt water solution.  How often is that necessary?  Thanks again for the service you provide.

Annette, 6/16/2004

You should find less need to use clarifiers because of the improved filtration.  If it necessary to regenerate zeolites at least once a season, in outdoor, residential pools.  Zeobrite help remove chloramines from the pool water and regeneration restores the ability of the filter media to perform this important function.  Individual pool circumstances can vary greatly and regeneration should be considered, whenever shock treatment to control the combined chlorine level becomes more frequent.  Regenerate as follows:

1.   Drain the existing water from the filter, then close the inlet and outlet valves.

2.  Mix the salt solution, 3 pounds of salt in five gallons of water, in a plastic container. 

3.  Open the filter vessel and pour the salt solution to completely cover the Zeobrite filter media.

4.  Allow the salt solution to stand in the media bed for a minimum of four hours.

5.  Backwash the salt solution out the discharge drain with a backwash cycle.

6.  Resume normal filtration of the pool water.

If you have ever given thought about getting a salt chlorine generator, you might be interested to know that it will totally eliminate the need to regenerate the zeolite media.  I hope that the information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/16/2004

► Zeobrite Regeneration & Ozonator?

I switched to Zeobrite this year with great improvement in pool clarity. I use an ozonator with low level chlorine: 0.6 ppm. Ozonators claim to minimize chloramines. What would you recommend for year end maintenance of the zeolite filter?

Al P., 9/5/2005

I would regenerate the Zeobrite at least once a year, in order to help keep peak performance.  This should be a regular maintenance item performed at the end of each season.  At the same time you might want to add a filter cleaner to help remove scale and oily deposits.  The ozonator will reduce chloramines and that is a plus.  Still, during the course of the season, some chloramines will be formed.  In areas where pools are filled with high mineral/hard water, cleaning the media for scale build-up once every six weeks is good maintenance.  I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 9/6/2005

► Blocked Line?

I believe a toy got sucked into my skimmer, after I failed to replace the basket.  Any suggestions?

Keith N., Hauppauge, NY 7/14/2005

You should remove the line from where it attaches to the pump or multiport valve.  Use a shop vacuum to blow the line out and back into the pool.  There is a simple way to avoid toys and objects from getting sucked into the skimmer or locking the weir in place.  Skimmer guards are easy to install and solve the problem.  I hope the information proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/14/2005

► Bumps And Clumps?

What is bumping the filter mean?  I've read it in a few of your answers. Also, when we backwash, the little spyglass never clouds up, but does have white chunks swirling in it.  Does this mean my DE is chunked up? If so what causes that?  Thanks.

Catherine, 5/29/2004

Some DE filters have a handle that allows you to "bump" or redistribute the filter media, instead of backwashing.  These filters are usually not backwashed.  It doesn't sound like your filter can be "bumped" and needs to be backwashed instead.  The "clumping"  doesn't necessarily mean anything.  "Clumps" can occur from the removal of dead algae and debris, the use of biguanide sanitizers or "quat" algaecides or the overuse of clarifiers.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/30/2004

► Sand Vs. Zeolite:  operating costs?

Thanks for all the advice on the web site. I have a small above ground pool (18' x 4') and I am using the biguanide chemicals. I have a sand filter that has been great but now in it's third season I am finding I need to run the pump about 3 times longer than last year to avoid cloudy water. I am very tempted to switch to the zeolite, but I was wondering, all other things equal, if it will require more electricity to operate per gallon filtered than the sand?  My intuition tells me that if the filter works better, the pressure will be higher and the flow rate will be lower (for a given pump), thus requiring more time to filter the entire pool. Is this true?  Has anyone ever compared the cost of electricity of sand vs. zeolite?

Kevin W., 7/8/2004

I don't know if studies have been done on operating costs, but I would hazard a guess that you will get better water quality with less filter time using Zeobrite.  Sand filters can be very inefficient in removing fine particles.  With zeolite you will have effectiveness that approaches a DE filter.   There will less need to run the filter for extended periods of time to clear up the water.  You should be able to run the filter on a more predictable cycle, so long as proper water sanitation is maintained.  For more information on Zeobrite go to:  www.zeotechcorp.com  I hope that I have cleared things up a bit.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/8/2004

► Still Cloudy?

Hi Alan, first of all, thanks for spending the time to perform this service.  Many of your responses to others have already helped us.  We are new pool owners: came with the house.  It's a 20 yr inground, 25,000 gal concrete pool.  We hired a company to "open" the pool that provides this service to others in our area.  They started by shocking and adjusting water chemistry - got rid of the green, but cloudiness remained.  Then more chlorine shock ~ 5 days later.  Another 4 days, and it's still cloudy.  I noticed the pressure reading on the new instrument was ~ 25 over this entire period, and never really changed that much (even after backwashing) - but outflow back into the pool always decreased with time, suggesting something was retained by the filter.  Next, they tried a quart of that clarifying agent you recommend, which improved the cloudiness somewhat You could see the bottom of the shallow end.  After 2 more days ~ 1 lb of DE powder was added to the skimmer, which plugged the filter, so we had to backwash out.  At this point, I suggested we investigate the filter.  It's not new, and the fact the pressure doesn't change suggested channeling to me; but they wanted to trying shocking 1 more time, so we did so today. By the way, water chemistry was fine, except for today, we had to acidify to get back within the normal range.  We also have been backwashing 2x daily.  Alan, what is your diagnosis and recommendation?  Thanks much.

J. and C., Dayton, OH, 6/4/2003

From your letter, it is safe to assume that you have a sand filter and it is very possible that channeling is part of the cloudy pool water problem.  A defective pressure gauge is another possibility.  If you have a sand filter, an excellent way to improve filtration is to replace the sand with Zeobrite:  a sand replacement filter media.  You mentioned that you added several doses of shock, but did not state any chlorine readings.  If you are unable to maintain a Free Chlorine reading for a reasonable period of time, it could be that there is still algae and debris in the pool.  This will consume the chlorine and cause a continuing clarity problem.  The key to your problem is to maintain a stable chlorine reading of 1-3 PPM for an overnight period and maintain a properly working filtration system.  The high pH reduced the effectiveness of the chlorine, decreased the solubility of calcium minerals and may have contributed to the problem.   The use of algaecide, a dose of "Blue" Clarifier (follow the label--more is not necessarily better) and adding a small amount of D.E. to the skimmer, all could be of benefit.  I hope that I have been helpful.  Good luck.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/4/2003

► Rapidly Rising Filter Pressure?

We have a 20'x40' inground pool, 1-1/2 hp pump and a D.E. filter. We have fantastic water pressure immediately after bumping or flushing the filter, but the pressure builds quickly and soon the water pressure slows way down, usually within 15-30 minutes. We are starting this season with poor water quality and we really need constant circulation to get it cleared up, but the pressure builds so quickly that the filter is not doing any good. The high pressures have also caused water to seep around the seal of the filter. I've cleaned the filter thoroughly and added D.E., nothing seems to help. The filter is plumbed according to the manufacturer's specs, but there is no filter bypass. Should I add one? Should we switch to a sand filter? This thing is just too restrictive to do any good. HELP!

Shelly and Tia, 4/12/2004

It seems apparent that your problem is due to the clogging of the filter.  The poor water quality is causing debris and algae to slowly reduce the water flow, raising the pressure.  If you are using biguanide, it may be part of the problem and will require an alternate treatment.  If you are using a clarifier or a quat algaecide (dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride or similar) stop the use, at least temporarily.  Add shock to the pool to boost the Free Chlorine reading to 5-10 PPM and keep it there.  Retest the water every few hours and add more product, as needed.  Keep the pH at 7.2-7.6.  Bump the filter and, if after the Free Chlorine level has be elevated, the problem continues, you should consider cleaning the filter and replacing the DE.  A DE filter can produce excellent water quality, but can be overwhelmed by too much material in the water.  That's where I think you are.  The chlorine will change all that.  If you are using biguanide, get back to me.  I hope that the information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/12/2004

► Dirt In The Corners?

I have a few spots, that seem to collect dirt and debris.  I guess it follows the natural water flow in the pool.  I use a Robo-Kleen every other day and while it does a great job, there is dirt accumulating in a few spots.  Any suggestions.

John. L. Clearwater, FL, 5/26/2005

The Robo-Kleen Robotic Pool Cleaner usually does a great job.  Nonetheless, new debris will settle in areas, based on the flow patterns.  There is a circulation boosting device that can be easily installed in each return and it will dramatically improve the circulation, by as much as 1500%.  This should help prevent dirt from accumulating in any particular spots.  And as a bonus, you'll get better chemical distribution and be less likely to have chemical dead spots.  For more information on The Circulator, click here. I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/26/2005

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► Replacing Sand With Zeobrite?

Alan, my husband and I purchased a home with a pool last year.  We have had some "issues" getting good, reliable help with our pool and have resolved that we are going to have to learn to care for it ourselves and with the help of friends and people like you.  I have been searching the internet for 2 hours now to find detailed directions for replacing the sand in my sand filter (30,000 gallon pool) and adding Zeobrite.  Can you help?  We have been told that the best time to replace the sand is prior to opening as the sand is the driest.  We were hoping to work on it this weekend.  I really appreciate your help!

Kara G., Utica, OH, 5/8/2004

It definitely is easier to handle dry sand.  You need to remove all of the sand.  While the filter is empty, clean and inspect everything.  Now you're ready to add the Zeobrite.  You will need 1/2 the weight of sand.  That is, if your filter required 300 pounds of filter sand, you will need 150 pounds of Zeobrite.  Otherwise, you operate the filter in exactly the same way as with sand.  The difference will be in the water quality.  It will be much better.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/8/2004

► Replacing Sand?

We have an inground pool and after shocking and putting in other chemicals needed to get the pool ready for summer, the water is a beautiful color, but we cannot see the bottom of the pool.  We've taken in 3 water samples to our pool supply store and they have suggested that we might need to change the sand in our filter.  How expensive is this and is it easy to do ourselves or would we be better off hiring someone?  How much does the sand cost and where do you buy it?

Bobby L., 5/15/2005

Sand should be replaced every 3-5 years.  Cost is modest and only certain types of sand is suitable.  Pool dealers should carry the right kind.  Even better than sand would be using Zeobrite sand filter replacement media.  Zeobrite is modestly priced, weighs 1/2 as much as sand and produces much better water quality.  Sand filters can become channeled and lose their efficiency.  There is some work involved.  The sand has to be removed and the filter cleaned and inspected.  Most pool owners do it themselves.  Some points to remember!  Backwashing too often is a common mistake.  Generally, the filter should be backwashed only when the pressure is too high.  I hope that this information will be helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/15/2005

Zeobrite's Effect On Hardness?

Reading through a California Contractors study guide I came across a statement in their glossary regarding Zeolite. In it they state: " Zeolite filter: Filter used to soften water. Filter medium is zeolite, a substance which will remove calcium and magnesium from water, replacing them with sodium.  Does not remove suspended matter from water." I live in an area that has very soft water, with little or no calcium, we experience very aggressive water conditions.  We add Calcium Chloride to our water on a regular basis. The question that concerns me is, does Zeobrite remove calcium and manganese from the water?  I have been using Zeobrite exclusively for all my commercial sand filter installations for years. I use it on heavily abused resort spas in conjunction with ozone, bromine and ORP controls.  The media backwashes easily and the water is clear all the time. My clients have reduced their water consumption, especially their draining and refilling by an easy 75%.  The savings in heating a freshly filled spa is enormous.  It's a great product and worth the extra expense.  I am concerned about the Calcium statement!

Stan Z., Mammoth Lakes CA, 12/27/2006

This statement refers to a manmade zeolite that has been modified to be used with water softeners.  Zeobrite is a natural mineral and can  be used in pools and spas with hardness, in the normal ranges, without any problem.  If the hardness is above 400 PPM, Zeobrite may lower the levels and that would be of benefit to the overall water chemistry.  I hope that this has cleared up the mystery.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 12/27/2006

► DE & Zeobrite?

I have a sand filter and recently it filled with Zeobrite.  When I used sand, I used to add some DE to increase the efficiency or so I thought.  Is this practice worth continuing?  Thanks.

Edward H., 4/22/2005

Zeobrite in a sand filter produces much better water quality than just sand alone.  Using DE as a filter aid, with zeolites, is not necessary or recommended.  Both DE and Zeobrite have a similar molecular structure, with rough angular shapes of the particles.  It is possible for the DE to become trapped in the internal pores of the Zeobrite, since DE is a smaller particle.  The angular shape can cause the DE to become wedged and plug the pores of the Zeobrite and over time actually diminish the filtering capabilities of the Zeobrite.  Hopefully this answers the question.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/22/2005

► Channeling Causes?

Last fall, after weeks of struggling with cloudy water, I saw your website and concluded that the sand in my filter was probably channeled.  I replaced the sand  with Zeobrite.  Since then all has been sparkly.  What causes channeling?  Is it possible that Zeobrite could also become channeled?  How does one prevent channeling?  Once it has happened, is replacing the filter media the only solution?  Thanks for your help! 

Niki P., 7/30/2004

There are a couple of situations where channeling can occur in Zeobrite.  The most common occurrence happens when mineral scale builds-up in the media.  This  can occur when  dealing with a high mineral water source, such as well water.  It can also occur when calcium hardness is allowed to run too high.  Since Zeobrite is a natural water softening media to some degree, it can remove and bond calcium carbonate when concentrations are high.  It is suggested to keep calcium hardness below 250ppm in pool water.  A common mistake that some pool builders make after plastering a gunite pool is to allow the plaster dust to build-up in the filter without cleaning the media.  Plaster dust contains a high concentration of calcium carbonate.  The combination of the two can create a hard layer of media and result in channeling.  The media should be cleaned with an acid based sand filter cleaner or a muriatic acid solution, after the first couple of week’s operation to correct this problem.  Another situation where channeling can occur is with the use of biguanide.  This material can cause sand, zeolite and D.E. filter media to coagulate.  It can not be backwashed from the filter and can result in diminished efficiency.  Some of the biguanide manufacturers suggest monthly cleaning of the media, when used with this chemical.  I hope that the information proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/31/2004

► Backwashing With Zeobrite?

The dealer was knowledgeable enough to suggest Zeobrite, as it will provide better water quality.  He seems unaware that Zeobrite decreases the need to backwash, because of in-depth filtration.  Backwash when the pressure is too high or a few times a season.  Once a week is totally unnecessary for your pool.  For complete product information go to:  www.zeotechcorp.com  I hope that this information will help clear things up.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/25/2007

► Scaling And Cloudy Water?

My pool is located in a very hard water area and I have some scaling and cloudiness issues.  The pool maintenance company has mentioned something called a magnetic conditioner.  What is this??

Roy N., Chandler, AZ, 6/2/2005

Magnetic water conditioners are strong permanent magnets that are strapped on the return lines.  It is reported that pool water passing through the return lines is subjected to a magnetic field, causing micro-changes in some of the water content.  In short, the magnets are said to cause some beneficial changes:  reduction and elimination of calcium scale, improvement in sanitizer efficiency and some positive effects on the overall water chemistry, clarity and filtration.  In very hard water situations, this type of product can make a substantial improve in the water quality.  No power is required and installation should be a simple.  I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/2/2005

The Magnetizer Helps Solve Problems?

The easy way to help manage scale problems!

► Lack Of Efficiency?

I emailed you a few weeks back about cloudy pool water (despite good water levels) and you told me to add DE to my sand filter and I must say it worked like a charm.  I now know I was backwashing too frequently, which no one told me before.  Recently, I had a HORRIBLE algae attack (I’m guessing due to a vacation) which made my pool the prettiest and brightest green I have ever seen!   I have since shocked the sh@t out of it and it is now finally a bright cloudy blue.  This actually looks good to me since it was so green for the last 10 days!  Now I know I have to just get rid of the cloudiness.  It seems to me that if I add DE to my sand filter it works  better, but what can I do to not have to go out at 3am and make sure the pressure is not too high and the filter is not working at all?  I fear something is wrong with my sand filter because I used to backwash too much.  I live in Wisconsin so there is not much swim time left but I would like to get my filtration system to the point where not only is it working the best but I know what to do for next season. The pool is not even a year old and is 18 X 4. Thankful.

Julie, 9/10/2003

PS  I have been told to only use sodium based chlorines as opposed to calcium ones.  Is it fair to say that I can stick with that general rule?

Dead algae can pass right through some sand filters.  Adding an occasional dose of a blue clarifier can help improve the ability of the pool filter to remove these fine particles.  Backwashing a sand filter doesn't damage the filter: it just lowers the efficiency by opening up the spaces between the sand grains.  Adding DE helps to reduce the spaces and improves efficiency.  Think of it as clean dirt.  Don't add so much DE that the pressure will rise towards the upper end of the operating range.  Another means of increasing the efficiency of a sand filter would be to replace the sand with a sand filter replacement media, such as zeolite.  Another effective means of improving the water quality is with a robotic pool cleaner.  It acts as a second, moving filter, as it vacuums the underwater surfaces.  And it will save you lots of time!  Sodium hypochlorite is popular in many areas.  The only reason not to use calcium hypochlorite would be because your calcium hardness is already high enough or should not be increased beyond its present level.  Another effective means of improving the water quality is with a robotic pool cleaner.  It acts as a second filter, as it vacuums the underwater surfaces.  And it will save you lots of time!  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 9/10/2003

 

► Little Pressure?

Hi, Alan!  Love your website.  I opened my pool and decided to change the sand in my pool filter - something that I never tried before.  Anyway, it all went well but I have very little pressure.  I tried backwashing, etc. but nothing helps.  I was thinking that perhaps one of the lines got clogged with sand but then I read one of your responses and perhaps I have one of those channels.  You mentioned a blue clarifier but I have no idea what this product is.  Do you sell it?  If it doesn't correct the problem, do I start all over again?  Thanks so much!

Barry N., 6/17/2004

You may not have done anything wrong.  A freshly filled sand filter is not as efficient as a somewhat dirty one.  If you used a filter grade sand, it may just take a while for the pressure to rise.  Backwashing will achieve just the opposite effect.  In the future, backwash only if the pressure is too high.  Try this.  Add 1 pound of D.E. to the skimmer with the filter operating.  This will help increase the pressure:  think of it as clean dirt.  The next time that you replace the sand, give some thought to using Zeobrite instead of the sand.  This sand filter replacement media will produce consistently better water quality that ordinary filter sand.  You didn't mention anything about cloudy pool water.  If the water is clear, I would play it by ear.  The blue clarifier, that I referred to, is a popular type of product that is sold in virtually all pool supply stores.  This website does not sell chemicals and is not affiliated with any chemical manufacturer.  Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/17/2004

 

► No Water Flow?

My problem is that the filter is not pulling any water.  What could be the problem?  Thank You.

B. K., 11/27/2003

There could be several reasons:  clogged filter, clogged pump strainer, loss of prime, broken pump impellor, clogged line or valve, closed valve or an air leak.  Check to see that the valve is in the correct position.  Backwash the filter to waste.  Resume filtering.  If the water is still not flowing, shut off the filter and open the pump basket cover.  Pour water into the basket (clean it out first), in attempt to manually prime the pump.  If none of these things work, you will have to check the lines, impeller and valves:  the answer is there, it is a matter of elimination.  If you have a filter operating manual, check to see if it has a trouble-shooting guide.  It might help solve the problem.  Good luck and I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 11/27/2003

 

► Green Water Won't Clear Up?

Hi, Alan, your web questions and answers are very helpful and informative.  Thank you.  I have a problem with my pool water.  About 2 weeks ago, my pool water started to get green, cloudy and ugly.  I realized I had slipped and ran out of chlorine.  I figured, no problem, I'll just shock with a couple pounds of chlorine granules, and it will clear up as it had in the past.  However, it is 2 weeks later, the water is still bright green and I cannot see the bottom.  I have added at least 8 lbs of chlorine and tried something recommended by the pool store - a chemical that binds to chlorine to clear up/kill algae better.  I have run the filter for 12 hours here, 24 hours there, etc...  Here is some other information.  The pool water is about 4 years old without being completely flushed and re-filled--and now it is too hot outside (I'm in Arizona) to risk cracking the pool finish (I understand you should not empty your pool if the temperature outside is above 80 degrees F).  The pool is about 18,000 gallons with a sand filter.  In the past, a little shock and an extra 12 hrs of filtering always cleared up the problem.  Do I need to change my sand?  Is it possible to run out of sand in the filter?  I'm thinking it is a filter problem, and not a chemical problem - my chlorine level is off the charts on my test kit (it goes up to 10ppm), I'm guessing it is 30ppm or higher based on the quantities of chemicals I used.  Do you have any suggestions to help?  Thank you.

John U., Arizona, 5/15/2003

You told me a lot, but still not enough.  If you're testing for Free Chlorine and the level is as high as you state, it is not likely that the problem is still algae.  Sand filters can be subject to such problems.  If the sand has not been replaced in a long time, it might be a good place to start.  Sand filters can become channeled and that prevents proper filtering efficiency.  If you are going to replace the sand, you might consider using Zeobrite sand replacement filter media.  This product is modestly priced, weighs one-half as much as sand and provides much better filtering efficiency.  This will help increase the efficiency.  If your filter pressure was low, it could be an indication of channeling.  Try adding an occasional dose of a quality "Blue Clarifier."  It will help coagulate the particles and help increase filter efficiency.  Thereafter, backwash only occasionally or when the pressure is too high.  Have you considered a Robotic Pool Cleaner?  With a built-in micro-filter, it can remove dead algae and help prevent future growth by improving the water circulation across the pool bottom.  For information on this product visit: www.smartpool.com  The green color could be minerals such as copper or iron - have the water tested for their presence.  I hope that this advice proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/15/2003

Wow - great advice!  I can see the bottom of my pool for the first time in 2 weeks after just 16 hours of using the DE and Blue as you suggested.  I had to backwash about 3 times during that period because of all the green gunk that was being cleaned out of the pool.  Still a little cloudy, but I should have it licked today.  Thanks again, Alan.

John U., 5/17/2002

It's worked for a lot of people.  Enjoy the summer.

Alan, 5/18/2003

 

► Pump Motor Size?

How do I know the hp of a motor, I need to replace, if the old one has no data on it?

J. R., 2/27/2004

The pump size will be determined by the size of the pool, filter and pipes.  Bigger is not necessarily better.  Depending upon the type of pump in place, you might be able to use a smaller pump.  I suggest that you visit a local pool professional with the following information:  pool size in gallons, filter type and model number and the size of the pipes (measure the diameter - they will be able to relate that to pipe size).  I hope that I have been of some assistance.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 2/27/2004

 

► How Long To Run?

We have a 24' above ground pool.  I replaced the liner this past weekend, and so far, everything seems good.  My question is about the length of time daily that the filter should run.   I have a 1 HP pump with a 16" sand (100 lbs) filter.  I've heard that the electrical costs are not that much different to run it 24/7 - but the previous owners only ran it about 8 hrs a day.   We have minimal leaves, bugs, etc that fall into the pool, but my thinking is that it the surface of the water is constantly being skimmed and cleaned, it will lead to less debris getting to the bottom (then having to vacuum, etc).   What is a good rule of thumb, and are the pumps designed to run continuously?  Thanks in advance.

Mark C., Kentucky, 5/31/2005

How long a pump should run does, in part, depend of the pump size, pipe size and the type of use the pool receives.  In essence, it is pool size and pumping rate.  A turnover rate of every 4-6 hours is reasonable.  Pumps are designed for long running periods, but that does make it necessary.  To run it 24/7, as compared to 8 hours daily, will cost you exactly 3 times as much.  This is not air conditioning!  If the pump is running, so is the electric meter.  In your case, 8 hours daily should be quite adequate.  The skimmers will never get all the debris and some will inevitably reach the bottom.  Better in invest in a Robotic Pool Cleaner, instead of operating the pump continuously.  It will act as a moving main drain and as a second micro filter.  hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/1/2005

 

► Using A Timer?

Thanks for your great pool service website... it is much appreciated.  We have a home in Gulf Breeze that is a rental and is/has been sitting empty for a couple months now. Our electric bill seems a bit high, due to the fact that we have turned off the hot water heater and adjusted the air conditioner up considerably. We suspect that the drain on power is coming from the main pump for the pool that runs continuously.  The pool is gunite and is about 33 feet long by 15 feet wide. We have pool maintenance about twice a month.  Can we put a timer on the pump that will allow it to run less time but still filter the pool properly?  Aloha and regards.

Robert B., 11/15/2006

The pump does not have to run 24/7.  Timers are routinely used to control time and duration of filter cycles.  I suggest that you try filtering for 8 hours a day.  During peak seasonal use, you might have to up it a bit.  During periods of reduced use, you might be able to scale back on the filter time.  No pools are alike, so some common sense needs to be applied.  How well you maintain the water chemistry and the pool's surrounding can play a role.  Pump size can make a difference.  You want the water to turn over about twice a day.  I hope that this information has been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 11/15/2006

 

► How Big A Pump?

I need your honest, impartial answer!  I have a 20,000-gal, inground, gunite pool that is currently running a sand filter (which I want to convert to Zeobrite), but my main problem is with the MOTOR.  It has a 1.0 hp motor and I have some people (current and prior pool owners) tell me that that is NOT enough - that I need to run 2.0 hp to really circulate the water (the water is NOT moving well).  Others - including the pool store who COULD talk me into a bigger motor and make money - tell me that 1.0 hp is sufficient.  It's not a question of money.  I can handle it.  But WHAT is the truth?  HOW big of a motor do I need?  Can I compromise and get a 1.5?  Thanks!

Dayle V., Orange Park, Fl, 5/9/2005

No simple answer.  Pump size is related to pool size, filter performance and pipe size.  Still 1 HP does seem on the small side.  I suggest that you replace the sand with Zeobrite, as you planned.  If the water flow is not adequate to turn the pool over every 4-6 hours, you might consider something bigger.  Biggest is not always best.  I would move up to 1.5 HP.  Have you ever considered a Robotic Pool Cleaner.  It acts as a moving filter and is independent of the pool pump?   I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/10/2005

 

► Under No Pressure?

Hi Alan, Pool type: inground.  Problem: In starting up the pool this year we are unable to maintain pressure when on "filter". The backwash, rinse and waste cycles work fine but as soon as we switch to filter we lose pressure.  Thanks.

Michael, 6/8/2003

It would have been helpful to know the type of filter, but it sounds like a sand filter.  That being the case, it appears that the filter media has become channeled.  That means that the water has carved a tunnel through the sand and is, in effect, by passing the filter media.  The sand will have to be removed and replaced with fresh filter grade sand or, even better, Zeobrite sand filter replacement media.  Lose of pressure can occur if the pump is sucking air in the filter position:  check all the connections.  Other than this possibility there are only mechanical causes such as:  a bad valve or some plumbing problem.  If you have an instruction manual, check the trouble-shooting guide.  I hope that I have been helpful.  Good luck.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/9/2003

 

► Cleaning The Filter Parts?

Is there a way I could give my in ground pool filter an acid bath myself? Is it just  matter of taking the filter tubes and submersing them in let's say a muriatic acid solution. Do you know the name of the type of acid used for this purpose, where I can buy it, what the dilution rate is, how long it needs to be soaked, rinse with water afterwards, etc?  Thank you.

Vince G., 5/1/2004

The disassembled plastic parts should be placed in a suitably sized plastic container.  Add water and about a quart of muriatic acid for each 5-gallons of water.  If you don't want to use muriatic acid, you can add two pounds of pH reducer, instead.  There are products formulated for this purpose that contain other ingredients, to help with the cleaning.  Soak at least a few hours - overnight or until clean.  Rinse off.  Use rubber gloves and eye protection.  This is not for metal parts!!!  I hope this information proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/2/2004

 

► Is It A Filter Or Chemistry Problem?

Within the last few weeks we have been having problems keeping our pool clean. The beginning of the season we had no problems. The pool water remains milky-cloudy and there always seems to be sand on the bottom of the pool. We have a sand filter and I have been vacuuming daily and backwashing daily without results. The pool chemistry is within normal limits. The sand in the filter has not been changed in two years. Is this a filter problem? I need help!  Thanks. 

Lisa, Patterson, LA, 6/21/2003

The sand could be from the filter or could be tracked into the pool on the bottom of swimmer's feet.  The pool filter pressure should help indicate if there is a filtration problem.  If the pressure starts off normal after backwashing and rises over a period of a few weeks, that would be typical of most sand filters.  Sand filters should not be backwashed daily: that will decrease the efficiency of the filter and could result in cloudy water.  Normally, a sand filter should be backwashed whenever the pressure rises too high.  Sand, from the filter, should not be getting into the water.  If that is truly the case, it is indicative of a problem and, perhaps, you should seek advice on servicing.  It is not uncommon for sand to be in the filter for longer than 2 years.  The cloudy water can be due to inadequate chlorination or inadequate filtration.  You might consider trying one of the "Blue" Clarifiers;  this type of product helps to improve filtering efficiency by coagulating suspended particles for easier removal.  The next time your sand is replaced, consider using Zeobrite sand filter replacement media.  It will produce much better results.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/22/2003

 

► Sand Filter Problem?

Hi Alan, we have opened our above-ground pool this year, and so far everything has been ok. BUT, my husband has tried to connect the vacuum and it seems as though when the vacuum is connected, sand is being blown through the water return.  The return seems ok, and the volume of water is strong so I don't think it is dirty already. All the hoses seem ok, fittings ok with no leaks. The pressure reads ok. Everything seems fine until we try to use the vacuum, and then we see sand being returned.  The pool is only one year old, and at the closing last season we were advised by our pool company to empty the sand filter and clean it; which is what we did. My husband did not experience any problems when he connected everything, and we haven't noticed any problems in the two weeks we have had the pool opened.  We considered emptying the filter and doing it over, just to make sure.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.

The Wife, 5/9/2003

Unless I am missing something, all you should have to do hook up the vacuum is to close off one skimmer (if there are two) and connect the hose to the skimmer intake.  Sand should not be coming into the pool just because the vacuum is being used.  Something is not right.  Sand filters do not have to be emptied every year.  In addition, a sand filter should not be backwashed too frequently, as doing that will reduce the effectiveness.  I suspect that something was done correctly during the replacement of the sand.  You might as well do whatever is necessary to check that everything is in its proper place and in working order.  Speak to the dealer.  He may have a trouble-shooting guide and should be familiar enough with that pool filter make and model to offer you the proper remedy.  Good luck with the problem.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/9/2003

 

► Passing On Through?

The bottom of our pool is covered with a white substance that we cannot get rid of.  When we vacuum, it clouds up and re-enters the pool, making the water too cloudy to see through.  The pool & equipment are all brand new and the sand filter has already been replaced.  Now, I've been told it could be from the powdered shock treatment we used, having something to do with the calcium and that flock should take care or it.  That didn't work either.  The pool is a 24' X 52", above ground with normal chemical readings.

R.D., Bloomfield, NY, 7/2/2003

This clearly sounds like a situation where the filter is not operating properly.  The sediment on the bottom, could indeed, have come from the shock treatment.  The fact that it is not being removed by filtration and returns to the pool, is very suggestive of channeling in the sand filter.   Freshly filled sand filters, new or old, can become channeled.  This means that the water has formed a channel through the sand and, by doing so, has eliminated much of the filtration.  The water is only being recirculated.  The pressure levels are usually low, if the sand is channeled.  The filter should be inspected to make sure that the sand is in the proper quantity and type.  Is it pool filter grade?   If you choose to replace the sand, consider using Zeobrite sand filter replacement media instead.  This type of filtration media can produce better results than ordinary filter sand and is used in exactly the same way.  I hope that the information proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/2/2003

 

► Filtration Boredom?

I am a new pool owner and want first of all to thank you for your very helpful web page!  I have a 29K gal. pool/spa with a 48 sq. ft. DE filter.  The pool has been opened about three weeks.  I have been testing my water and maintaining a good balance.  The water appears clean and clear.  The initial start up pressure on the gauge was 13.  The pool company told me that I should backwash at 23.  Is it normal that the gauge has not gone over 15 since we began operating the pool?  Am I just "bored" and looking for something to do or should I backwash after a certain period of time, regardless of the pressure gauge?   Thank you.

Ken D., Freehold, NJ, 6/30/2004

You must be doing an exceptional job maintaining the proper chemistry and that, in turn, is preventing the growth of algae.  Algae growth is the usual cause for the pressure to increase.  The fact that the pressure has not increased very much, over the past few weeks, is due to the fact that there has apparently been very little material for the filter to remove.  If you read through the archives, you will notice that pools requiring pool filter backwashing, usually have algae or clarity problems.  Don't backwash unless necessary.  A mid-season backwash might be reasonable, if not done for any other reason.  Keep up the good work.  Golf, tennis, fishing or swimming are good hobbies.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/30/2004

 

► How Long To Filter?

We have been told many different options on how often to be running our filter for our 21,000 gal inground pool.  In order to save energy costs everyone seems to have their own little quark about how often or when to run their filter.  Some say every other day, for two days straight after a busy weekend, nighttime only, etc.  What is your best recommendation?

Julia H., 4/30/2005

Start with 8 hours a day.  When the pool is not being used, perhaps, you might get away with 6 hours.  During peak use, you might need more.  How well you maintain the water, how much bather usage, how powerful the pump, exposure to wind-blown debris and other factors all contribute.  Depending upon the sanitizing method, you might need to have the filter operating for more or less time.  Having a Robotic Pool Cleaner can reduce the time, as it acts as a second filter and as a moving main drain.  If you can, operate the filter while the pool is being used.  Have fun and I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan  Schuster, 4/30/2005

 

► How Long & When?

I live in South Florida and have a new pool of three months. I’ve been told that a pump should run at least 8-12 hours a day. I have a timer and a pool pilot salt chlorine generator. My question is should I run the pump continuously for that amount of time or break it up throughout the day? I know the most important time is during