Alternative Pool Sanitizers

	The Solar-Powered Salt Chlorine Generator and Mineralizer combination, pictured above, will produce all the chlorine, that most pool require.  No installation is required.  Includes many important performance features.  Click on any image for complete product and ordering information.

How to choose an Alternative Pool Sanitizer? The phrase "Alternative Pool Sanitizer" usually refers to something other than conventional forms of chlorine: the most popular sanitizing product. Alternative Pool Sanitizers include: salt chlorine generators, ionization-oxidation, ionizers, mineral sanitizers, ozone generators, ultraviolet sanitizers, biguanide (Trades names such as Baquacil, Soft-Swim and Revacil) and bromine. Some alternatives perform best by being used in combination, while others can be stand alone. Some alternatives are other chemicals and others are generating or releasing devices. The quest for simple and effective pool sanitizing is ongoing. The goal is better sanitizing, more convenience, less chemical sensations and safety. What is right for any pool will depend on how it is used, by whom it is used, bather demand, importance of convenience and cost considerations. No matter which sanitizer is used, it is a good practice to shock the spa at least periodically, after periods of heavy usage and at distinct signs of a loss of water quality. This will help to rid the water of organic buildups and prevent the development of resistant microorganisms. If problems arise, refer to the Pool Problems Page, as a source of problem-solving information, broken down into various categories.  Scroll down the page and click on the linked keywords, catch phrases or images, in the archived answers below, to access additional information, on that topic or product.

Join our E-Letter Mailing List.   You'll receive 1-3 E-Letters a month, featuring helpful pool and spa advice, new product information and sale announcements.  All we require is your e-mail address and you can opt out anytime you wish.  Your information will never be shared or sold.

► Wanting To Minimize Chlorine Usage?

My in ground new pool runs on a mineralizer together with a ozonator. I know I have to use every, once a while a chlorine tablet to keep the proper balance. I am located in Dallas, TX. Some guy told me we have to shock the pool and add conditioner, to keep the chlorine in the pool. The whole reason I installed the system. is to not use or at least minimum amount of chlorine. Do I need a conditioner and chlorine? Thx for your help.

Dieter, Dallas, TX, 4/27/2012

The reason a low level of chlorine is recommended is that ozone does not remain, in the water for very long, once the pump is turned off. Having a mineralizer helps make keeping a low chlorine level more feasible. So long as you are using chlorine, you should add chlorine stabilizer/conditioner. Otherwise, the Sun's ultraviolet rays will quickly deplete the chlorine and your usage will go up. I suggest you try for 1 PPM of free chlorine. Because of the ozonator, there should be no chlorine smell or sensation. Instead of thinking no chlorine - think low chlorine and you'll have far fewer problems. Adding The Circulator will dramatically improve circulation and will help eliminate dead zones, where algae starts to grow. In addition, it will help ozone stay in the water longer, because of the spiraling return flow it creates. Once a month or so, when you may not plan on using the pool, it would be a good time to shock. This will help prevent the development of sanitizer resistant microorganisms. Test the water regularly and you should be good to go. I hope that this information help make the season more enjoyable.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/48/2012


► Would Like To Be Chlorine-Free?

My son has an extreme sensitivity to chlorine and/or the byproducts associated with its use in pools. He breaks out, whenever he goes into any chlorine pool. We would like to have an inground pool installed, but not without being able to avoid using chlorine. Can you offer suggestions?

Henry K., Temecula, CA, 10/31/2010

The simple answer would be to use biguanide, as it is incompatible with chlorine. However, the product does have its share of baggage. Most users encounter problems with resistant microorganisms, after periods, as short as one season. Try as they might, the only practical solution, at that point, is to permanently switch to another sanitizer. It also impedes proper filtration and causes foaming. It is not the long term solution that you are seeking.

Chlorine acts as a disinfectant, sanitizer and oxidizer of organic wastes and byproducts. Many products or devices claim to perform "chlorine-free", but may not be acting with the sanction and approval of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. This agency regulates the text that appears on a registered product's label. It is easy to take liberties, with sales materials. Bromine will meets these goals and, while closely related to chlorine chemically, in terms of being another member of the halogen family of elements, it has been found to be less irritating. Ordinarily 3-5 PPM of bromine are required. With some additional treatment products, you can get optimum results with a much lower 1-2 PPM level.
 
As a first step, I would add a UltraViolet Sanitizer. It kills virtually every microorganism, including the worst offenders, as pool water passes through the cell and returns to the pool. It will reduce the microbial population of the pool, but will not sanitize the water, in the pool, completely, nor will it eliminate algae, that might be growing on underwater surfaces or oxidize organic wastes and byproducts. Still, it accomplishes much and adds no chemicals, but needs some help to do the complete job. An Ozone Generator will help destroy many microorganisms, organic wastes and byproducts, without adding chemicals. Ozone is a form of oxygen, that is a powerful oxidizer, but is short lived. The ozone might only remain in the water for twenty minutes, after the unit is shut off. Adding The Circulator, to each return will help it reach the far corners of the pool, as good circulation is very important in achieving your goal. Operating the ozone generator, for periods spaced throughout the day, would be of great help. Operating with a 2-speed pump on low 24/7, is something to consider.  At this point, you have greatly reduced microbial populations and controlled organic wastes, without adding chemicals. What is missing is something to act as a persistent sanitizer. The Pool Frog is a mineral sanitizer, that uses silver ions to kill microorganisms. It is normally used with chlorine or bromine and will help reduce the need for the higher 3-5 PPM level of bromine. Because the ozonator is doing much of the oxidation, the amount of bromine required, to maintain any given level, will be greatly reduced.

At this point, you have a low level of bromine and the only other chemical being added is silver ions. When the pool is filled, adjust the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness, as required. As mankind has learned, microorganisms are highly adaptable. On a monthly basis or after periods of heavy bather usage, to help prevent the formation of resistant microorganisms and to assure peak performance of this triad approach to a reduced halogen pool, I would add enough potassium monopersulfate shock (non-chlorine) to boost the bromine level to 3-5 PPM. You want 3-5 PPM present, for at least a few hours.  I suggest this last step, as assurance against developing a sanitizer resistant microorganism. It may not be needed, but better safe than sorry. However, if you ever feel slimy deposits on the underwater surface, it should be taken as a sign that something may not be performing properly or that this periodic bromine treatment needs to be done. A high-efficiency filter can further assure optimum water quality, while remaining a low halogen pool. I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/31/2010


► Won't Do Without One?

I live in Houston. We are starting the process of getting quotes to build a new pool. My sister in Chicago has a pool ionizer. I have never seen anything as easy as this. Every season they put a few bags of salt in the pool when they and the ionizer makes its own chlorine. They rarely have to add anything. Is it possible to have this system in the hot humid weather that we have here in Houston? I do not want a pool that is not an ionizer. Can you help me in finding a pool company in our area that will install this system with maintenance service? 

Becky A., 3/6/2011

Not a problem! The product that you are referring to as an "ionizer" is more correctly described as a salt chlorine generator. That's why some salt is added yearly: in order to replenish the salt content, after the pool water level has been restored in the springtime. An ionizer is something different: it uses copper and silver ions, in conjunction with shock treatments, to maintain proper water quality. An ionizer does not make chlorine! A salt chlorine generator system can produce all of your pool's chlorine requirements, with a minimum of other chemicals. It is like having a chlorine manufacturing plant.  Chlorine output is controlled by a setting on a dial and is making adding pool chlorine the old fashioned way obsolete. It works in the humidity of Florida and the Arizona desert. Good luck with the pool.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/7/2011


► Salt Chlorinators & Mineral Sanitizers?

Your website is a great source of information that I found while doing research on alternate pool sanitizer solutions. Thank you for your time in providing this service. I hope this isn't a repeat, but I didn't find the specific info on the mineral sanitizers, and specifically not any comparison between the two in terms of effectiveness, cost and ease of use. I would very much like to know your thoughts on the relative merits of the mineral sanitizers and salt water chlorine generators.

Gene G., Madison, AL, 7/7/2004

A salt chlorine generator is a complete pool sanitizing system. About all you'll need on a regular basis is some acid to lower the pH. It is like maintaining a chlorine pool without the headaches or the handling of chlorine. It is highly automated and controllable. Need more chlorine - just dial it up. A Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizer adds metallic ions to control algae and bacteria. You will still have to add chlorine or non-chlorine shock on a regular basis, to perform the necessary oxidizing function. In either case, the water chemistry must be maintained. A salt chlorinator will cost more initially. While I don't have specific figures, I suspect that over the life of the unit, the cost will be very competitive and possibly lower depending upon individual circumstances. Some salt cells are rated to last 5 years or more, depending upon the location. Mineral Sanitizers use cartridges and have life expectancies of about 6 months, by comparison. You can use both products together. That will allow you to maintain a lower level of free chlorine and that will make control of the pH easier and extend the life of the salt cell. I hope that the information proves to be helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/7/2004


► Ionization-Oxidation?

Dear Alan, your fame spreads far and wide! Another couple of questions from the other side of the pond (U.K.) I am considering fitting an ioniser, several manufacturers out there, some use copper electrodes, some copper and silver, some use copper, silver and zinc. from my own studies of bacterial research via the web it appears that there is a synergy between copper and silver which provides a kill rate at 4ppm which can only be matched by copper alone at 8ppm therefore am I correct that the life of the electrodes (copper & silver) will be longer due to the amount of ions required and also the electricity required will be less saving the planet a bit more not too mention that staining should be less? Second question, You do not seem to mention that some manufacturers include a second pair of electrodes (titanium or platinum) that are used to provide oxygen to burn up those impurities normally carried out via chlorine, thus eliminating chlorine completely. What are your thoughts? I have also found a German company that has made diamond surfaced plates that produce 100% more oxygen than platinum plates. Kind regards.

John W., U.K., 4/10/2007

I will always have fond memories of the UK and the pool business, having attended a trade show in Brighton, many years ago. Ionizers (forgive the spelling) sanitize by releasing metallic ions: copper, silver and zinc. As far as concentration is concerned, 4 or 8 PPM, is far too high, as that would likely result in staining and discoloration problems. Levels in the tenths of a PPM would be more appropriate, in a swimming pool. While an ionizer helps sanitize the water, it is not a complete system. Oxidation will still be required.  Towards that end, an Ionization-Oxidation device is more of a complete sanitizing aid. These devices can have copper and zinc electrodes and electrodes for producing various forms of active oxygen.  Apart from thinking the plates are titanium with a Platinum or Ruthenium coating, I have no knowledge of a diamond coating. To make an Ionization-Oxidation unit much more of a complete sanitizer, you could use it with chlorine or bromine, at very low levels. It can be challenging to totally eliminate chlorine, as its presence on a persistent basis provides both sanitizing and oxidizing and it might be required, occasionally, if the bather loads are high or conditions warrant. The maintenance of a minimal level of chlorine or bromine, helps to confirm that the sanitizing and oxidizing needs are being met. For those that want to totally eliminate chlorine, Ionization-Oxidation could be a route. Adding high efficiency filtration, The Circulator for improved circulation or a UV sanitizer will make success more likely. If you want to minimize the use of chlorine, Ionization-Oxidation will surely accomplish that and more. I hope that this information proves useful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/10/2007


► Perplexed About Biguanide?

I have been using biguanide for several years and been happy with the results. It may cost more, but I like the feel and the lack of chlorine odors. The problem is that on two occasions the pool has developed a water mold. I had to add chemicals and chlorine shock and, in effect, had to start all over. The dealer says it could happen again. Short of switching to something else, can you suggest something? Thanks.

Paul B., Lake Worth, FL, 9/4/2007

You could try adding an Ultraviolet Sanitizing unit. It will depress the microbial populations and help prevent a possible recurrence. If the problem does recur, you really should permanently switch from biguanide. In that case, you could change to chlorine or bromine and the UV unit will allow you to maintain satisfactory sanitizer levels with fewer chemicals. It's your call. Good luck with your decision.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/5/2007


► Why Aren't Ozonators More Popular?

Ozonators sound like a good idea. So why are they not very popular? Is it good for a lazy pool owner?

John W., 6/24/2005

They may not be as popular as chlorine, but their popularity is increasing in all types of residential and commercial pools. The use of ozone generators has been widespread in spas for many years. Ozonators are not complete stand alone pool sanitizers.  A backup system, usually chlorine or bromine must be used. A salt chlorine generator can be used in conjunction with an ozonator and will provide additional benefits.  Mineral sanitizers and ionizers can also be used in conjunction with ozone and chlorine, to provide backup sanitizing and reduce the chlorine usage. In addition, all of the important water chemistry parameters must be maintained, as in a chlorine-maintained pool. Yes, it is convenient. Yes, it will reduce the overall requirements for sanitizer and will simplify chemical balancing. Yes, it is good for "lazy" pool owners. There are other choices that might be worthy of your consideration. Salt chlorine generators can completely eliminate the need for any chlorine and there is no need for a backup. Still the water chemistry must be maintained. But isn't that what pool service companies are for? I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/24/2005


► An Ionizer vs. A Salt Chlorinator?

I'm building a new concrete 26X42 pool and I'm having a little difficulty deciding on the purifier to use. One of my concerns is to eliminate as much as possible any chemicals used (i.e. I hate the smell and feel of chlorine). So I've looked at several chlorine generators and Copper/Silver Ionizers. Some vendors swear by the generators because you don't have to handle chlorine. But, they can't answer my concern that the Chlorine content of the pool is probably no different (i.e. regular Chlorinators). On the other hand, Ionizers claim to use little or no Chlorine. What can you tell me about the relative strengths, beyond trivialities, between generators and Ionizers? Any recommendations are appreciated.

Mike S., 8/22/2004

With an Ionizer you will still have to add chlorine, bromine or non-chlorine shock on a regular basis. Otherwise, organic byproducts will buildup to problem levels. The use of chlorine or bromine will act as a backup sanitizer and help assure better water quality. The ionization unit will reduce the use of chemical sanitizing products - how much less will depend on your particular usage pattern.  The overall pool chemistry must still be maintained, as with any pool.  Your concern about chlorine should be eliminated, if you add a salt chlorine generator. Under normal conditions, it is chloramines that prove odorous and irritating. With a salt chlorination system, all the water passing through the cell will be free of odorous and irritating chloramines and there should be much less of a sensation of chlorine being in the pool. If you use a Solar-Powered Salt Chlorine Generator and Mineralizer Combination, you will be able to lower the chlorine usage and extend the life of the salt cell. My own long-term, experience bears this out. It is the chloramines - not the chlorine that are smelled. There are no chlorine containers to handle or store! As with any chlorine pool, you will have to maintain all of the other water chemistry parameters. Test the salt level, periodically to assure that the amount is within the proper range. Good luck with your decision. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/13/2004


► Ionizer Needed Chlorine To Maintain Water Quality?

I purchased this powered ionizer, for above ground pools and I think it is time for me to replace the cartridge in this ionizer. I am debating buying another cartridge, because the replacement price is going to be around $150. Can you please share your opinion and/or suggestions about this product or any others similar to it? What is your personal experience or advice regarding these ionizers? Being a new above ground pool owner, I am not able to determine if this product is worth re-investing my money again every 2 or 3 yrs. Please advise & Thanks for all your help.

Debbie R, Dallas, TX, 10/25/2009

When sanitizing products, such as algaecides or chlorine, are registered by the US Environmental Protection Agency, they receive an EPA Reg. Number. In addition, the agency limits the types of claims that can be made. For some unfathomable reason the EPA does not register all devices and they seem free to make claims, that may not be supported. I agree that this product can help sanitize water. But water can be sanitary and look unappealing. Wastes must be oxidized, with the use of chlorine, bromine, ozone, potassium monopersulfate or hydrogen peroxide. WHAT ARE YOU ADDING TO OXIDIZE BATHER WASTES? THIS PRODUCT WILL NOT DO ANYTHING TO ELIMINATE URINE!  Mineral sanitizers, usually suggest the use of chlorine or bromine, at lower levels, to destroy the wastes. In my opinion, stand alone ionizers fail to provide proper water quality and add to the risks of staining. In many cases, the dealer tells the pool owner that no chlorine is needed. Just add a gallon of laundry bleach weekly.  Guess what! Most laundry bleach is chemically identical to liquid pool chlorine, only at about 1/4 - 1/2 the strength.  And if you have to add chlorine, The Model SR Salt Chlorinator is somewhat more than the refill, but is a full featured unit.  I am really interested about what other chemicals, you are adding. Please get back to me.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/26/2009

To be honest with you, my pool guy, (who bailed on me in July), was treating my pool, as if the ionizer was not there. He said,  he wasn't too sure that these ionizers were very efficient, so he just kept caring for my pool with chlorine and shock, which of course kept my pool clean and blue. However, I was in Florida for a month when my pool guy quit, and when I got back, I had a green tinted pool. Since then, I lost my job, and have had a hard time buying the chemicals necessary to get all the algae out. Not too mention it has been raining almost every other day or 3rd day here in Dallas for the past several months. When the pool supply places test my water, I have had ELEVATED levels of both pH & alkalinity and 0 chlorine. When we finally got the ph & Alk level. Then I treat with algaecide, then 5 to 6 lbs of shock and floating 1 inch stabilized chlorine tabs. I vacuum, and still am unable to get my pool totally blue.  I think the rain is killing my chlorine levels, because I cant seem to keep it up. And those 1-lb pkgs. of shock are so expensive, it is ridiculous. I have been looking for pool chemicals online, but am unsure which ones are the best value for the money. My vinyl is solid White, with the exception of a 7 inch color design around the top edge of the liner, right about where the top of the water level should be.  I am not concerned about bleaching any color from my vinyl, yet the pool supply people, keep wanting to sell me the more expensive shock treatment made especially for vinyl pools.  Every week, when I go to the pool supply store, it is costing me anywhere from $80 to $130 in chemicals. So that is the reason I was inquiring about the efficiency of my power ionizer, & whether or not I should invest in another cartridge due to the pricing of the item. I was hoping to save on over-all chemical costs. And, after reading the info you suggested a salt chlorine generator, I am a little confused. Do I have to have a salt water system already set up on my pool,  to use the salt water system?  OR Do you recommend I stick with the regular salt chlorine generator system as opposed to the saltwater system?  Any suggestions or advice you provide will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all your help.

Debbie R., Dallas, TX, 10/28/2009

Like I said, an ionizer cannot work without chlorine or some form of oxidizer. At best, it can help reduce chlorine usage. Your pool was being maintained on chlorine. When the chlorine was stopped, that is when algae took over. The low pH and TA are the result of the algae and not the cause. It seems the product did little to deter algae and I would not invest in a replacement cartridge. Because this is a device, their claims are not regulated by the EPA. They can boast about no chlorine, but in the real world, the truth gets exposed. I suggest that you add chlorine and get the free chlorine level elevated. Liquid pool chlorine is vinyl-liner safe and cost effective. Or read the labels and use a cost effective choice, since money is a consideration. It will probably require a lot of chlorine. The POOL FROG is something that can help you reduce chlorine usage, after you have eliminated the current problem. The Salt Chlorine Generator Model SR unit is described as a saltwater generator or salt chlorinator (the terms are used interchangeably), for most above ground pools. The unit mounts on the top rail. It will require about 25 pounds of salt, per 1000 gallons, but will make enough chlorine for a typical 20,000 gallon pool. It requires ordinary non-iodized food or water softener graders of salt- about 10 cents a pound. For better control of the pH, better overall results and longer cell life, it can be used with a Solar-Powered Mineralizer.  Two solar-powered, salt chlorine generators models are available, no installation is required and they can be used in all types of pools. Good luck with the clean up and I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/28/2009


► Algaecide: To Use Or Not To Use?

I have never used an algaecide in my new above ground pool and have had no problems to date. My friends with pools, all seem to use algaecides and chlorine. Is it a good idea to use algaecide? Just wondering.

Jeff E., Lakeland, NJ, 6/30/2004

The best way to use an algaecide is to add it before you have a problem! That way, it can help you avoid a problem. Chlorine levels rise and fall during the course of the day, depending upon chemical additions and bather usage. When the sanitizer levels drops too low, algae can begin to grow. If an algaecide is present, it just might keep the algae under control, until an adequate sanitizer level is restored. Both above ground and inground pools should use algaecides. However, the choices may differ because of the materials of construction. You could use a Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizer, instead of adding algaecide, plus it will lower chlorine usage.  I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/30/2004


► How Does UV Sanitize?

I am interested in getting away from all the chlorine and the odors associated with the product. I know there are several types of alternative pool water sanitizers available, which can reduce or eliminate chemical usage. I've read up on some of them, but am not really clear about Ultraviolet. Is this the same as Ozone? How does it work? Thanks for the help.

Adam J., 11/2/2004

Ultraviolet (UV) is not ozone. Some ozone generators utilize UV to produce ozone, but not as a sanitizing agent. UV rays destroy the microorganisms ability to survive and function, after passing through the cell membrane.  An ultraviolet sanitizer unit is plumbed inline and effectively sanitizes the water, as it passes through the cell. This has the net effect of reducing the overall microbial populations and reducing the amount of sanitizer necessary to maintain optimum water quality and to keep the pool algae-free. UV will reduce the microbial population, but requires a traditional sanitizer to help keep it that way and to help the underwater surfaces free of algae. Chlorine is well suited, in this role, and lower quantities of chemicals will be required because of the lower microbial populations. Good water circulation is important.  The Circulator, which boosts circulation, and a robotic pool cleaner would be worthwhile additions, helping to keep the underwater surfaces in algae-free condition. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/2/2004


► Concerned About Copper?

We have used a mineral sanitizer system for the last 2 years with great results. We can keep our chlorine levels low and the water stays perfectly clear. This year, my wife has seen info that indicates that this system may not be good for the pool, as it introduces copper into the water Can you please shed some light on this subject? Thanks.

Bill, 5/30/2009

Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizers and ionization units usually release a stream of metallic ions, into the pool water, for the purpose of providing sanitizing benefits. The ions are at extremely low levels, so as not to cause staining and/or discoloration.  I assume that this is the issue that you were addressing. The instances, where copper can present a problem, result from the use of copper sulfate, corrosion of copper heater cores or excessively high concentrations, due to over application. You should try and keep the copper at 0.3 PPM maximum and keep the pool pH closer to 7.2. Several convenient testing options are available, including a ColorQ COPPER 5 Digital water analyzer, that eliminates the guesswork and color-matching. I hope that I have provided some enlightenment.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/31/2009

▲ Return To Top Of Page ▲