copper pool problems: copper stains - swimming pools with copper water problems or heater corrosion

Frequently, Copper can be found in swimming pool water. Most commonly, it is introduced into the water in the form of a chelated (stabilized) copper algaecide or winterizer. Copper, in this form, usually does not cause a pool problem, if used properly and as directed. Copper is rarely found is municipal water supplies. Naturally occurring copper, is occasionally found, in well water. It is copper from this source or from corrosion of copper heater cores or piping that is capable of causing blue-green or even dark colored staining or discoloration. Copper problems can be controlled with proper chemical treatment and techniques. A water analysis is required to determine the concentration of copper present and help assure that it does not reach the level, where staining and discoloration can occur. An alternative method of dealing with known heavy metal problems is to use the METALTRAP Filter, which can physically remove the metals, as the pool water is being added. Copper and other heavy metal problems can treated with Pool Refresh, used in conjunction with other METALTRAP products. Clicking on the underlined and highlighted "keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will give you access to additional information on that topic or product.

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The METALTRAP Filter will trap & remove copper, iron and other heavy metals, from the pool water and from all new water additions. More information about the ColorQ Water Analyzers can be found by clicking on the above image. These hand-held, digital testers require no color matching or look up charts and perform the following tests: pH, Free & Total Chlorine, Bromine, Total Alkalinity, Hardness, Cyanuric Acid, Iron, Copper, Biguanide & Biguanide Shock. Different models are available, for varying needs. More information about some new & unique products, for above ground & inground pools, can be found by visiting The Website Stores. You'll never know what you'll find and that's always fun. Be better prepared and avoid costly problems!

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► Copper Pool Water Testing?

I HAVE A QUESTION ON COPPER. WHAT DOES COPPER DO TO YOUR WATER AND EQUIPMENT AND WHY DO YOU NEED TO CHECK. NOT EVERYONE CHECKS FOR COPPER BUT I DID BECAUSE I HAVE THE WATERLINK EXPRESS. MY COPPER IN MY POOL WAS AT .3 AND THEN I USED A COPPER BASED ALGAECIDE AND MY COPPER WENT TO 0.7. I HAVE TREATED IT 3 TIMES WITH NO LUCK WITH A METAL TREATMENT. COPPER WENT DOWN AFTER TREATING IT THE SECOND TIME TO 0.5 AND THEN SHOT UP AGAIN. I CLEANED MY FILTER AFTER THE SECOND DOSE. I DOSED THE THIRD TIME THIS MORNING AND GOING TO CLEAN MY FILTER TONIGHT. I HAVE A SAND FILTER. IS IT IMPERATIVE TO GET THE COPPER DOWN TO 0.0? THANK YOU AND LOOKING FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

JULIE R., RICHMOND, MO, 6/2/2011

Good question. Pool owners that use ionizers, Solar-Powered Mineralizers or copper algaecides are spending money to put copper into the pool water. The problem with copper is its form. Ionizers and mineral sanitizers add copper ions at very low levels: a few tenths of a PPM at most. Copper algaecides add copper in a chelated or stabilized form: usually at concentrations well below 1 PPM. Where copper does cause a problem is when it is present from copper sulfate or corrosion at more than trace amounts. Now that I made the case for copper being in the pool, here's the problem. Most of the metal treatments claim to remove copper, iron, etc. This is a misleading statement, inasmuch as they do not actually remove copper or iron. Where did it go? In reality, these products help control copper and iron, by keeping it in solution in a stable, chelated form. In many instances, the test equipment still picks up the copper. Adding more metal treatment will not remove the copper and may have no impact on the test reading. However, the copper is chelated and should not cause staining or discoloration. In pools that are using mineral sanitizers or ionizers, the addition of metal treatments is only done as a last resort, because it may inactivate the copper ions. I hope that I have explained the problem.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/2/2011

► Copper Eating Plaster?

First, I want to let you know how pleased I am with my ColorQ Pro-11 Test Kit. I have had it for about three years now and the ColorQ Pro-11 has provided reliable, easy testing of my pool and spa water. The question I have is a whether or not copper in the water "eats" the plaster of a pool. During the recent installation of a replacement safety cover, the installer pointed out that I had some bluish flecks appearing in the white plaster of my gunite pool. He said that it was a result of a buildup of copper sulfate that was in the Granular Pool Sanitizer, that I use, and that I should get the pool acid washed to remove the stains before it eats my plaster. Since I just had the pool re-plastered two years ago I really don't want to go through a acid wash this soon unless I really do have a problem. My research hasn't turned up anything indicating a problem with this specific chlorine product and plaster nor, for that matter, copper and plaster. As further background, I removed virtually all copper plumbing from my filtration system three year ago and my current copper reading with the ColorQ Pro-11 is 0.4. What are your thoughts on this?

Regards, Victor B., 9/12/2011

It would take a considerable amount of copper sulfate to get a copper reading of 0.4 PPM. Most chlorine prodeuct with copper sulfate, contain low levels. Try placing some 500-mg vitamin C tablets on a stain and allow to dissolve. If this works, you can treat the whole pool with MetalTrap Stain Remover, followed by additions of liquid MetalTrap. Copper does not eat plaster! It is acidic, corrosive water conditions, that etch plaster and, if chlorine or bromine are present, will corrode copper plumbing or heat exchangers. You can better preserve the plaster finish, by keeping the pH at 7.2-7.6, the TA at 80-120 PPM and the calcium hardness at about 200-250 PPM. I suggest not using a product that contains copper sulfate, as 0.4 PPM is already higher, than you want it, even if you were using an ionizer. I hope that this information will set the record straight.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/12/2011

► Copper Heat Exchanger Corrosion?

Alan, my copper level at closing last winter was 0.5 ppm, measured with a test kit. This occurred when my second heat exchanger dissolved into the pool water. (Long story - installer paid for his error and replaced second heat exchanger). No copper ever added to pool on purpose (i.e. no copper-based algaecide). After the first heat exchanger was dissolved (like I said, a long story), the entire plaster pool surface was stained blue-green. Drain, acid wash, refill. Stain gone (all at installers expense - at least he's honest). Now we're on the second round. Problem root cause fixed, 3rd heat exchanger now in place, but, as I said, 0.5 ppm copper remains from dissolved heat exchanger number 2. Question: What's the best way to get rid of the copper? I'd rather get rid of it than sequester it. Naturally, I'd like to avoid another drain and refill. I've heard that there are products that can remove copper. Have you had any experience with this? pH is always on the high side, around 7.6. I'm afraid the copper is going to precipitate out any day now. My wife says she can see little green spots on the white plaster. My eyes are not that keen, but I want to nip this in the bud! I'm a scientist and an engineer, so I like to know what's going on, even if I let someone else do the work! Also, my installer, though honest, needs some direction. Thanks for your advice!

David S., Colts Neck, New Jersey, 4/25/2009

That's quite a story. Sounds like someone put a chlorinator in front of the heater and this resulted in the corrosion of the copper heat exchanger. The only way to deal with the copper is by chelating the copper or by removing it. Chelation will complex the copper and allow it to remain in solution, thereby avoiding the risk of precipitation or discoloration. Some Mineral Treatment products use the term "remove" in a very general sense. They actually mean "helps control." These products do not physically remove the copper. A concentration of 0.5 PPM is comparable to that of a copper algaecide, on the higher side of normal. Ionizers typically maintain levels of 0.3 PPM. By adding a quality mineral treatment you should be able to complex the copper and avoid problems. Because this product will chelate all of the heavy metals and to assure that enough product has been added, I suggest that you add a double or triple dose. Thereafter, add an initial dose each springtime opening. Allowing the pH to remain at 7.6 or above, decreases the solubility of copper and increases the likelihood of staining and precipitation. I hope that I have been helpful. There is another non-chemical solution. Using the METALTRAP Filter, to treat all new water, helps keep new additions of copper and other metals out and minimizes the possibility of staining. You could, also, use The Metal Trap to recirculate the pool water and lower the copper and heavy metal content, already present in the pool water. Enjoy the season and the heater.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/25/2009

Alan, thanks for the quick response! The installer didn't put the chlorinator (actually brominator) in front of the heater - the heater came first. But, he neglected to put a check valve between them, since the flow was from the heater to the brominator. However, during times when the pump was not running, highly concentrated pH 4 bromine solution from the brominator diffused back through the pipe to the heater and dissolved the copper heater core. Both the heater and brominator installation instructions called for a check valve, but my installer said he never needed one before and has never seen this problem.

David S., Colts Neck, NJ, 4/28/2009

A check valve is much less expensive than a new heater. A lesson learned?

Alan, 4/28/2009

► Copper Panels Causing Concern?

My daughter has been getting green hair ever since we installed our pool 9 years ago. I researched and found solar panels manufactured in the LA area. They always stayed straight and did not reduce pump pressure by using ½ copper lines encased with aluminum fins that absorb heat into the water in the copper lines. I thought it was great and have been very happy with it until my daughter continued to get green hair. It appears that the copper is getting to great levels because it always just recirculates the same water thru the solar panels. A solar installer says that I have to change the panels and drain the water. That the panels are for domestic water heating systems and can not be used for a pool. My questions are: 1. Will putting a mineral reducer in the water solve my daughter green hair problem? 2. Will continuing to have the water go thru these copper pipes in the solar panels become a problem? 3. Should I change out the panels? Thanks.

Jim, 4/1/2010

If you allowed the pH to fall into the acid ranges and were using chlorine, the copper will dissolve. There are pools with copper heat exchangers and copper pipes and they don't necessarily have problems. Keep the pH up and there should be no problem. These panels are not widely used, probably because of the cost. Plastic is less expensive and not prone to corrosion. If you opt to replace the panels, Sunheater would be an ideal DIY solution. Have the water tested for copper. It will be present. Add a dose of metal treatment for each 0.5 PPM of copper. Add another one monthly. If the copper is more than 2 PPM, you might consider replacing some water, to get it under 1 PPM. The treatment could prevent further greening of the hair. Any chlorinator should be last in line and separated by a check valve. Have your daughter use an acidic hair condition. Apply generously, and leave on for 15 minutes. Repeat, as necessary. Stains are probably due to copper and are rarely removed by simply adding a metal treatment. You might have to use ascorbic acid. Refer to the pages on Staining. I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/2/2010

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► A "Safe" Copper Level?

We have the instructions for the LaMotte code 3619 copper testing kit but it doesn't say the colour which is a safe level can you help please.

Geraldine, 4/28/2005

If you are referring to what level of copper is "safe", that can depend upon the source of the copper. If the source is natural or corrosion of copper components, the content is best at nil. Any measurable quantity should be treated. If the source is a copper algaecide, 1 PPM is generally the suggested upper limit. If the source is the presence of a Solar-Powered Mineralizers or ionizer, it should be based on the manufacturer's own recommendation. Usually this is on the order of a few tenths of a PPM. I hope that this information proves to be helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/28/2005

► Is This A "Toxic" Copper Level?

I was wondering how safe it is to swim in a pool that is sanitized by ionization, in particular, if the copper level is higher than the recommended amount. I just got an ionizer installed in my pool and, not being familiar with the system at all, I was not monitoring the copper level. I had someone else do it for us. It turns out that my copper level was at .7 to 1.0 ppm as opposed to the recommended amount of .2 to .3 ppm. At the time, I was also having a lot of sediments at the bottom of the pool. I would ask the people, who would monitor the pool what that was, they did not know. Well now, I know that the sediments may have been excess copper, because when I would vacuum it up it would have a blue/green color. Please let me know how toxic, the pool may have been with such a high level of copper. Thank you.

Huguette S., 3/25/2007

It is not a matter of toxicity - it is a matter of trying to avoid staining. Algaecides typically can add 1 PPM of copper. The lower setting help prevent copper staining and discoloration, while still providing enough copper. Try keeping the pH closer to 7.2, until the level has dropped. Adding a onetime dose of a metal treatment, might help minimize staining and precipitation. I hope that this information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/26/2007

► Copper Stained Tile Grout?

I recently bought a house that had a pool. The heater coils were pretty bad and the heater has been replaced. Unfortunately, the copper from the heater - staining the grout . What steps can I take to remove the copper stains so the tile grout is at least more vibrant than it is now? Would scrubbing the tiles with a mix of water and muriatic acid be a solution? Perhaps scrubbing the tiles with a stain remover is the answer? I have added stain remover to the pool and let it circulate, but this has not provided any noticeable difference. Thank you for any guidance. Regards.

Scott M. from Florida, 5/17/2011

Adding a stain remover to the pool water is unlikely to produce any noticeable improvement. Try this. In a plastic bucket, first add 2 quarts of tap water, 1 quart of a quality mineral treatment and lastly 1 quart of muriatic acid. Drop the water level below the tiles and use this solution with one of those sponge-backed scrubbing pads. Make use that you use eye protection and rubber gloves. The purpose of the mineral treatment is to prevent any copper removed from the tile from causing a recurring problem. This mixture should dissolve the top surface layer. Another method would be to use a strong oxalic acid solution. However, it is sometimes difficult to find oxalic acid in pool stores. Good luck and I hope that things brighten up for you.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/18/2011

► Copper Problem Or Green Algae?

Alan, I found your website and was hoping that you could help us. We had a green tint in our pool water. After testing it, the pool store employee felt that copper was the problem. The chlorine level was at zero. Mistake on our part. The pH was too high. She directed us to buy sequestering agent. We did and added it. A day later we also added chemicals to reduce the pH (as directed by the pool store). We went to another pool store (our favorite one) to get the water retested and see what else we could do. They found that the copper levels went up even more after the sequestering agent was added (going from 0.4 to 0.5). They explained that when you use a sequestering agent, you also need to use a clarifying agent. Each time I've added the Clarifying agent, the pressure in the filter goes WAY UP. Normal pressure was around 14, but the Clarifying agent sends it up immediately to over 25! I end up backwashing, which removes the clarifier from the pool. And we start all over again with more clarifier. I've used it multiple times, but the water color isn't changing. Now what? Do I keep trying it but use a smaller dose since it seems to blow out the pressure? The pH is now fine, along with alkalinity. The chlorine level is back to where it needs to be. Now, how do I get that copper out of the water that seems much worse, since using the sequestering agent? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Cheryl F., Mooresville, NC, 5/16/2004

We need to set the record straight. There is no difference between a reading of 0.4 and 0.5. Both should be considered the same value, as it is within the testing limits of the equipment being used. None of the products will take the copper "out" of the water. "Chelated" copper will remain in the water, in a stable, soluble form that will help eliminate staining and discoloration. The product you used is not a chelating agent, it is a clarifier. It sounds like you could have a DE filter and if that is the case, stop using the product. It is coagulating the filter media and causing the pressure rise. If you don't have a DE filter, the green color and the pressure rising are due to the presence of algae. You may have copper in the water, but it is algae that is turning the water green. Do you have a heater? Did you ever add copper algaecide. If the answer is no, where did the copper come from? If the problem is algae, as I suspect, you need to start boosting the Free Chlorine level to a stable 1-3 PPM. Get the pH to 7.2-7.6. The best way to deal with copper is with a chelating agent, not a sequestering agent. Add a dose as soon as possible. It is entirely possible that the achieving of a stable free chlorine level and the lowering of the pH will eliminate all of the problems. Minerals are more soluble at lower pH readings and the high pH could not have been a positive factor. I hope that this information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/17/2004

► Where Has All The Blonde Hair Gone?

My two daughters have blonde hair (the natural type) and have developed a greenish tint in their hair. We have had the pool for three years and this is the first time this has happened. What can I do to stop the problem and is there anything that can help their hair? Please help. Thank you.

Dave A., Rocky Mount, NC, 3/12/2003

Two possibilities. The chlorine is affecting the hair and/or some of the hair products, that might have been used. The other, more likely possibility is copper. You can have the water tested, by a local pool professional to confirm the presence. The question of what is the source of the copper remains. Chelated copper algaecides are usually not the problem, especially if used as directed. If you have a heater and use chlorine or bromine, the presence of low pH conditions over prolonged periods can result in some copper corrosion in the heater. This will add copper to the water in a problematic form. In either case, here is what I suggest. Add a double dose, for each 1 PPM of copper, of a Quality Mineral Treatment. This will chelate (stabilize) the copper and avoid further problems. So far as the hair is concerned, try this: shampoo in the usual manner and apply a generous amount of an acidic Leading Brand Hair Conditioner and leave on for 15 minutes. These products have a very low pH and should help "pull out" the discoloration. Repeat daily, as necessary. Kids can spend a lot of time in the pool and that can make them more susceptible, to this problem, than adults. I hope that I have been helpful. To better assure proper overall pool water chemistry, visit a pool store that has a very reliable, professional lab such as a WaterLink or Pinpoint system, rather than a less accurate test kit or strip reader. To locate a dealer near you, go to: LaMotte Professional Testing Center Locator Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/13/2003

► Copper Tubing For Algae Control?

I heard if you coil a piece of copper tubing and put it in your skimmer basket it will reduce algae growth. I put a piece in and it seems to be better, but not exactly as good as it could be. If I use a bigger piece will that work??

Bashful, 8/17/2005

You may have heard it, but that doesn't make it right. Copper will not dissolve in pool water, unless there is chlorine or bromine present and the pH is low. However, that will risk corrosion to other metal parts, as well as the creating harsh swimming conditions. There are products and devices that add copper, by various methods. Copper tubing is not one of them! If you want effective algae control, start by keeping the free chlorine level at 1-3 PPM. If you want to add some copper, you can use a Solar-Powered Mineralizer, ionizer or a copper algaecide. I hope that this information will prove useful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/17/2005

► Copper Sulfate As An Algaecide?

A friend of mine swears that copper sulfate is a great algaecide. He says that it is cheap and that it works. His pool does look good. What do you say?

Paul A., Danbury, CT, 8/23/2004

Your friend is partially correct. It is an effective algaecide and it is cheap. BUT IT SHOULD NEVER BE USED IN A SWIMMING POOL! Copper sulfate is used as an algaecide, in the treatment of surface waters, such as reservoirs, lakes and ponds. It should not be used in swimming pools and, so far as I know, no swimming pool chemical marketer or packager offers 100% copper sulfate for sale. At the pH of a typical swimming pool and in the presence of chlorine or other oxidizing agents, copper (from copper sulfate, natural sources or corrosion of heaters) can and will cause staining and discoloration of pool surfaces and hair. The copper products used, as swimming pool algaecides, are typically in a chelated (stabilized) form. These specially formulated products avoid the problems associated with copper sulfate. I hope that you will heed my advise. Enjoy the season.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/23/2004

► A Rube Goldberg?

Dear Alan; I was talking to someone over the weekend who said that he had reduced his usage of chlorine in his pool by putting pieces of cut copper pipe strung together into his scuppers. The algae attacked the copper pieces keeping his pool clean. He said that he had to clean the copper pipe pieces by putting them in a chemical and then into a bath of household white vinegar. Then back in the scuppers again. He says he uses only a very small amount of chlorine per year, and the pool water is much more pleasant for the swimmers. Since this was a chance meeting in a store I'm sure I need some additional info. to do this with my own pool, but don't know how to contact him. Can you assist me with the correct methods and products to use? Yes, this sounds a little Rube Goldberg, but if it really works!

Albert G., 5/17/2004

It could work, but at what cost? Copper needs to be dissolved in water, in order to function as an algaecide. Copper will not dissolve in swimming pool water, that contains chlorine, unless the pH is below 7.0. Unfortunately, that will make the water irritating to the bathers and corrosive to metal and masonry surfaces. This form of copper can lead to staining, discoloration and green hair. Copper is used to help reduce chlorine consumption, but in the form of a Solar-Powered Mineralizer, ionizer or copper algaecide. Most people prefer not swimming in a acid bath. Try something more conventional. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/17/2004

► Wait A Week?

I have a problem that started with algae in my pool. I shocked and added a 60 algaecide. It did not help. I then shocked again and mistakenly used a copper based algaecide. I had my water tested then and it showed a low ph and alkalinity as well as copper and iron in the water. I was told to use an alkalinity plus product and then add a metal out product which I did. I was then told NOT to shock my pool for 1 week. I think the metal out has helped already but I do not understand why I should not shock for a week. The algae is still present and the chlorine level is too low as well. Can you advise on this? Thanks.

Sherry in Missouri, 8/15/2006

Metal treatments work best when there is little or no chlorine present. In your case, you are not dealing with staining - just the use of a copper algaecide. Even if there was some staining, it could wait a few weeks until after Labor day. No sense giving up the last few weeks of summer! You don't even know if the copper algaecide is going to cause a problem. In any event, you added metal treatment and that will reduce the possibility of staining or discoloration. I would start adding chlorine now. It is going to take a lot, so be prepared. I suggest that you add the liquid chlorine or quick dissolving shock, about a pound/gallon per 5,000 gallons, until the free chlorine level is over 5 PPM. Don't drag it out! The longer it takes, the more product will be required. Keep it there until the problem is under control. You have green water because the sanitizer level was inadequate and algae took hold. Check the overall water chemistry as well. Make sure that you are testing for FREE CHLORINE. A product, such as the LaMotte Insta-Test Strips, is ideal for this purpose. I hope that this information will prove to be useful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/14/2006

► Not Going Away?

We had an acid problem last summer and determined that it ate away at our heat exchanger this summer. We had copper issues all summer and used Metal Free. We replaced the exchanger and also unhooked the heater for the rest of summer. We can't seem to "remove" the copper that is in the water. It stays around 2 ppm. Our local pool store has had me try Filter Aide (many times) along with a 2 part clarifier with no success. Summer is over and we want to close the pool but not with the copper present. Every time the chlorine goes up, so does the copper. We don't want to keep it at bay. We want to REMOVE it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. We are so very frustrated. Thank you!

Greg and Diane, 9/28/2006

Adding metal "removers" chelates or complexes the copper and other heavy metals. It doesn't actually remove them, as that would incur precipitation, staining and discoloration. There is no mention in your letter, about staining or discoloration. At this point, the copper is chelated and is not likely to cause staining or other problems. In fact, it will act as an algaecide. I suggest adding a monthly dose of metal treatment, as an additional safeguard against a recurring staining or discoloration problem. It is not surprising that it shows up in the tests. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/28/2006

► Nasty Problem Solved?

I recently had a nasty season-opening copper stain on my vinyl liner that was caused (I now know) by corrosion from my heater last season. The stain completely covered all of the sidewalls and bottom of my 27,000 gal in-ground pool. My local pool store recommended a stain remover product, which I used and nothing improved. Scrubbing of the walls and floor did nothing before or after the application of the stain remover product (which cost me $20 per quart and I used 3 quarts). Anyway, I noticed your site mentioned a Vitamin C tablet test, and I tried this test on one of my sidewalls and I was amazed. I pressed a normal sized Vitamin C tablet onto the side wall and I could write lines immediately – the stain came right off. So my next dilemma was how to buy some Vitamin C / Ascorbic Acid. I purchased the 3 pounds of powder. I adjusted the chlorine level to zero on my pool as suggested by your web site, and then I dumped the 3 pounds of Vitamin C powder in my pool, and the stain was immediately removed, with no scrubbing, from the area where I dumped the mixed power. The next day the improvement in the pool was dramatic – with no scrubbing at all. I had to purchase an additional 3 containers of 500 tablets of 1,000mg Vitamin C to finish the job. I then added several quarts of metal treatment to keep the copper in solution. Thanks.

Bob J., 6/1/2005

No questions! Great letter! Glad to hear that it worked out. Just adding a metal treatment rarely works. The problem with Vitamin C tablets is that they contain other inert ingredients, that may cause interaction with swimming pool chemicals. I have found that a lot of people look for a source to buy ascorbic acid. It is now available in my website store. Click here for more information. I' give you an "A" for effort!

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/1/2005

► Green Hair?

HELP ME PLEASE! MY HUSBAND AND I PURCHASED A DOME FOR OUR ABOVE GROUND SWIMMING POOL! PROBLEM IS OUR HAIR IS TURNING GREEN ~ IT IS UNREAL! WE HAVE OWNED THIS POOL THREE YEARS BUT JUST PUT THIS DOME ON THIS POOL. WHY IS THIS HAPPENING? WHAT CAN WE DO TO ELIMINATE THIS PROBLEM? PLEASE EMAIL ME BACK. THANK YOU.

MRS. ANGELA B., 9/7/2004

The dome has nothing to do with the problem. There are two possibilities. One is that you have a heater and have subjected the copper coils to acidic conditions in the presence of chlorine and/or bromine. The other possibility is that you used a copper algaecide that may not have been based on a chelated or stabilized formula or used the product to excess. If you have a heater, it is the likely source of the copper. If you have a built in chlorinator, it should be plumbed in after the heater and should be separated from the heater by a check valve. Have the water tested for copper. The green hair is all the confirmation I need. To stop the problem, I suggest that you add a double or triple dose of a quality metal treatment, ASAP. So far as the hair is concerned, try this: shampoo in the usual manner and follow with a generous application of an acidic, Leading Brand Hair Conditioner. Leave on for 15 minutes. These products are very acidic and will helpfully pull out the green. Repeat again, as necessary. In the future, make sure that the pH is always in the 7.2-7.6 range. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/7/2004

► "Blue Something"?

I have a question. We had a small problem with mustard algae. We went to our pool supply and brought a water sample and they sent us home with some copper algaecide. Now our less than 1 year old pool has a blue something all over the bottom and stairs. We went back and they gave us a mineral remover. I don't know what to do now. Help!

Steve, 3/7/2007

The "blue" something could be copper. If the copper algaecide was a chelated copper formulation, it would be unusual to cause staining, unless the pool water chemistry was far from optimum or, in the case of masonry pools, the pool finish had not completely cured. The product that you added is used to help control heavy metal staining. I doubt that it will remove the stains just by the simple addition of the product to the pool water. It will probably be necessary for you to drop the pH of the water to approximately 5.5- 6.0. After the pH is lowered, use a brush to loosen the deposits and allow up to 24 hours at the low pH. Test the pH to make sure that it remains low. If the stains are removed, it might be a good idea to add another dose of the mineral remover, before raising the pH. There are other means of controlling mustard algae that do not involve a copper algaecide. Judging from your experience, you might want to try a "Yellow" sodium bromide product. Browse through the archives on mustard algae and copper stains for more information on this topic. I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/7/2007

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