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"Ionizers for Pools"
Metallic ions reduce chlorine/oxidizer usage.
The Pool & Spa Informational Website
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An Alternative Pool Sanitizer
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through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
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Ionizers are devices that
supply a stream of copper and silver ions to the swimming pool water. The
copper ions function as an algaecide and the silver ions
function as a bactericide. Used properly, the ions are maintained at
very low levels, avoiding the possibility of staining or discoloration.
Ionization units have copper and silver electrodes and the regulation of the
current, between them, helps control the release of the ions. Mineral
Sanitizers accomplish a similar end result without the use of electrical
circuits, by utilizing an erosion principle. Ionizers and Mineral
Sanitizers are not stand alone pool water treatment products, but can reduce the
total amount of chemicals required for proper pool water maintenance.
Ionization cannot destroy organic buildup and contamination and cannot destroy
dead microorganisms and organic debris. The reliance on copper and silver,
for sanitizing, requires pool water oxidation and the use of products such
as: chlorine, bromine, non-chlorine shock or ozone. While most, if not
all, oxidizers can be used with Ionizers, check with the
manufacturer before adding chemicals, as to any limitations that might be
suggested. The overall water chemistry should be based upon the
manufacturer's recommendations. Ionizers that make claims about 100%
chlorine are doing this with the sanction and approval of the US Environmental
Protection Agency. In the real world, they perform better with low levels
of chlorine, bromine or other oxidizers. Stating"100% Chlorine-Free" helps
sell the product, but does not solve the problem. Clicking
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following tests: pH, Free & Total Chlorine, Bromine, Total Alkalinity,
Hardness, Cyanuric Acid, Iron, Copper, Biguanide & Biguanide Shock.
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► Ionizer Needed Chlorine To Maintain Water Quality?
I purchased this powered
ionizer, for above ground pools and I think it is time for
me to replace the cartridge in this ionizer. I am debating
buying another cartridge, because the replacement price is going to
be around $150. Can you please share your opinion and/or
suggestions about this product or any others similar to it?
What is your personal experience or advice regarding these
ionizers? Being a new above ground pool owner, I am not able to
determine if this product is worth re-investing my money again every
2 or 3 yrs. Please advise & Thanks for all your help.
Debbie R, Dallas, TX,
10/25/2009
When sanitizing products, such as
algaecides or chlorine, are registered by the US Environmental Protection
Agency, they receive an EPA Reg. Number. In addition, the agency limits the
types of claims that can be made. For some unfathomable reason the EPA does not
register devices and they seem free to make claims, that may not be supported.
I agree that this product can help sanitize water. But water can be sanitary
and look unappealing. Wastes must be oxidized, with the use of chlorine,
bromine, ozone, potassium monopersulfate or hydrogen peroxide.
WHAT ARE YOU ADDING TO OXIDIZE BATHER
WASTES? THIS PRODUCT WILL NOT DO ANYTHING TO ELIMINATE URINE! Mineral
sanitizers, such as the
Pool Frog usually
suggest the use of chlorine or bromine, at lower levels, to destroy the wastes.
In my opinion, stand alone ionizers fail to provide proper water quality and add
to the risks of staining. In many cases, the dealer tells the pool owner that
no chlorine is needed. Just add a gallon of laundry bleach weekly. Guess
what! Most laundry bleach is chemically identical to liquid pool chlorine, only
at about 1/4 - 1/2 the strength. Go to
www.kingtechnology.com for
some mineral sanitizing options that are up front about the need to add chlorine
or bromine. And if you have to add chlorine, The
ChlorEase Above Ground Salt Chlorinator
is in the same price range, as the refill.
I am really interested
about what other chemicals, you are adding. Please get back to me.
Regards. Alan Schuster, 10/26/2009
To be
honest with you, my pool guy, (who bailed on me in July), was
treating my pool, as if the ionizer was not there. He said, he
wasn't too sure that these ionizers were very efficient, so he
just kept caring for my pool with chlorine and shock, which of
course kept my pool clean and blue. However, I was in
Florida for a month when my pool guy quit, and when I got back,
I had a green tinted pool. Since then, I lost my
job, and have had a hard time buying the chemicals necessary to
get all the algae out. Not too mention it has been raining
almost every other day or 3rd day here in Dallas for the past
several months. When the pool supply places test my
water, I have had ELEVATED levels of both pH & alkalinity and 0
chlorine. When we finally got the ph & Alk level.
Then I treat with algaecide, then 5 to 6 lbs of shock and
floating 1 inch stabilized chlorine tabs. I vacuum, and
still am unable to get my pool totally blue. I think the rain
is killing my chlorine levels, because I cant seem to keep it
up. And those 1-lb pkgs. of shock are so expensive, it is
ridiculous. I have been looking for pool chemicals online, but
am unsure which ones are the best value for the money. My
vinyl is solid White, with the exception of a 7 inch color
design around the top edge of the liner, right about where
the top of the water level should be. I am not concerned
about bleaching any color from my vinyl, yet the pool supply
people, keep wanting to sell me the more expensive shock
treatment made especially for vinyl pools. Every week, when I
go to the pool supply store, it is costing me anywhere from $80
to $130 in chemicals. So that is the reason I was
inquiring about the efficiency of my power ionizer, & whether or
not I should invest in another cartridge due to the pricing of
the item. I was hoping to save on over-all chemical costs.
And, after reading the info you suggested RE: ChlorEase and the
Saltwater ChlorEase, I am a little confused. Do I have to have
a salt water system already set up on my pool, to use the salt
water ChlorEase system? OR Do you recommend I stick w/the
regular ChlorEase system as opposed to the saltwater ChlorEase
system? Any suggestions or advice you provide will be greatly
appreciated. Thanks for all your help.
Debbie R., Dallas, TX, 10/28/2009
Like I
said, an ionizer cannot work without chlorine or some form of oxidizer.
At best, it can help reduce chlorine usage. Your pool was being
maintained on chlorine. When the chlorine was stopped, that is when
algae took over. The low pH and TA are the result of the algae and not
the cause. It seems the product did little to deter algae
and I would not invest in a replacement cartridge. Because this
is a device, their claims are not regulated by the EPA. They can boast
about no chlorine, but in the real world, the truth gets exposed.
I suggest that you add chlorine and get the free chlorine level
elevated. Liquid pool chlorine is vinyl-liner safe and cost
effective. Or read the labels and use a cost effective choice, since
money is a consideration. It will probably require a lot of chlorine.
The POOL FROG is something that can help you reduce chlorine
usage, after you have eliminated the current problem.
The
ChlorEase
unit is described as a saltwater generator or salt chlorine generator
(the terms are used interchangeably), for above ground pools, with flat
top rail construction: no soft or vinyl sided pools can be used, with
this product. The unit mounts under the top rail. It will
require about 30 pounds of salt, per 1000 gallons, but will make enough
chlorine for a typical 18,000 gallon pool. It requires ordinary
non-iodized food or water softener graders of salt- about 10 cents a
pound. For better control of the pH, better overall results and longer
cell life, it can be used with the
Pool Frog.
Good luck with the clean up and I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/28/2009
► Hawaiian Bloom?
Dear Alan,
thank you for your informative and very helpful website. Here is my
situation: I have a 20,000 pool in Maui, Hawaii. The pool has a
copper-silver ionizer system that works fine when conditions are perfect which
they usually are (after all, it’s Hawaii!) but I need to supplement when it
rains, which rarely happens but this winter has been very unusual with lots of
rain. So, I don’t know what I’m doing anymore. What used to work isn’t
working and I’m out of my league. First after a big flooding storm the
pool became filled with silt run-off. I finally got that cleared up with
daily vacuuming and filtering 24 hours a day for 7 days and using a pool
clarifier. Then after a day or two of crystal clear water the pool turned
green and I got an algae bloom (which I was in denial about and didn’t treat
until I couldn’t see the bottom of the pool). After two rounds of copper
algaecide and several rounds of shocking with cal hypo, I now have a somewhat
cloudy pool that won’t return to crystal clarity. I’ve added the pool
clarifier and it’s not responding. It doesn’t seem like algae because the
pool is not slimy nor does it smell like algae, however, there is a brown
powder-like substance that collects a bit on the steps and I don’t know if
it’s leftover silt or maybe mustard algae. The water is in good balance (pH
7.7, alkalinity 85). I am about to put 2 pounds of dichlor in the pool
on the recommendation of a pool guy here. He said it will clear up
everything. Is this a good idea? Is it better than shocking with cal hypo
since it’s not calcium based (which negatively affects the ionizer)? Do I
need to put it in at night (pool guy said no)? I have no cyanuric acid or
chlorine stabilizer in the pool, since it is usually a non-chlorine pool. He
also said to put a 3” chlorine tab in the skimmer to help in a regular basis.
Is this actually going to do anything? Or am I just burning up chlorine for
no good reason, since I’ve no cyanuric acid in the pool and I don’t want to
put any in at the recommendation of the ionizer owners manual? Thanks so
much! And if you’re ever in Hawaii, come and visit! Aloha.
Debra G.,
Maui, Hawaii, 2/17/2007
Until you get
the water clear, I suggest that you pretend that you have a chlorine pool.
Your ionizer will not solve the problem - chlorine will! There was
nothing in your letter about chlorine levels. You need to boost the Free
Chlorine level to 5-10 PPM and keep it there until the water clears up.
Dichlor will work fine. Day or night - the sooner the better. To help
protect the chlorine, it might be a good idea to add cyanuric acid to boost the
level to approximately 25 PPM. The brown material is probably silt.
Mustard algae is very powdery in appearance and brushes easily. The pH of
7.7 should be lowered to closer to 7.2, as it will help the chlorine work
better. As the water improves, add another dose of the clarifier. I
suspect that you have a sand filter. If that is the case, you might
consider using
Zeobrite, a sand filter replacement media.
Dead algae can pass right through a sand filter.
Zeobrite
will remove the dead algae and help restore even better water clarity.
Once the pool has returned to optimum condition, you can resume normal
operation, which should include shock treatment on a weekly basis, after periods
of heavy rainfall, after periods of heavy bather usage or at the first signs of
a loss of water quality. Your copper/silver ionizer cannot perform the
oxidization function necessary to break down pool wastes and contamination -
shock treatment can! The 3" tablet in the skimmer could be of benefit, although I
dislike that method of addition. You can minimize the use of
chlorine and get better water quality, by adding an
ozone generator. I hope that the advice helps and I really
would like to drop in for a visit. I haven't been there in 22 years.
I'll have to settle for sunny Florida. Aloha.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 2/17/2007
Thanks,
Alan, for your timely and thorough reply. Yes, I do have a sand filter and will
give your recommendations a try. Aloha,
Debra,
2/18/2004
►
An Ionizer vs. A Salt Chlorinator?
I'm building a new concrete 26X42 pool and I'm
having a little difficulty deciding on the purifier to use. One of my
concerns is to eliminate as much as possible any chemicals used (i.e. I hate the
smell and feel of chlorine). So I've looked at several chlorine generators
and Copper/Silver Ionizers. Some vendors swear by the generators
because you don't have to handle chlorine. But, they can't answer my
concern that the Chlorine content of the pool is probably no different (i.e.
regular Chlorinators). On the other hand, Ionizers claim to use little or
no Chlorine. What can you tell me about the relative strengths, beyond
trivialities, between generators and Ionizers? Any recommendations are
appreciated.
Mike S., 8/22/2003
With an Ionizer you will
still have to add chlorine, bromine or non-chlorine shock on a regular basis.
Otherwise, organic byproducts will buildup to problem levels. The use of
chlorine or bromine will act as a backup sanitizer and help assure better water
quality. The ionization unit will reduce the use of chemical sanitizing
products - how much less will depend on your particular usage pattern.
The
POOL FROG combines mineral sanitizer and
salt chlorine generator technologies and allows the chlorine requirements to be
reduced to about 1/2 of the normal level. The
overall pool chemistry must still be maintained, as with any pool. Your
concern about chlorine should be eliminated.
Under normal conditions, it is chloramines that prove odorous and irritating.
With a salt chlorination system, all the
water passing through the cell will be free of odorous and irritating
chloramines and there should be much less of a sensation of chlorine being in
the pool. My own long-term, experience bears this out. It is the
chloramines - not the chlorine that are smelled.
There are no chlorine containers to handle or store! As with
any chlorine pool, you will have to maintain all of the other water chemistry
parameters.
Test the salt level,
periodically to assure that the amount is within the proper range. Good
luck with your decision. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/13/2004
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► Ionization 101?
Is
there any research that proves that ionization or mineral purifiers are effective pool treatment
options, with comparison to chlorine or bromine treated pools?
Toby W., Christchurch, New Zealand, 5/11/2004
While I don't have any research findings on ionization,
I'm sure that such material exists. Ionization units have been around for
at least 30 years. The theory is sound: silver provides bacterial
sanitizing and copper provides algaecidal action. You still have to
maintain the overall water chemistry. It will reduce chemical consumption,
but will not eliminate the need for shock treatment for oxidation of wastes,
debris and byproducts. If you want to
completely eliminate the need to handle all chlorine and shock treatments, you should think in
terms of a
salt chlorinator.
If an ionization unit is used with a salt chlorine generator, it will
allow the free chlorine results to be maintain at a much lower 0.4 PPM and still
have optimum results. This lower chlorine requirement will extend the life
of the salt cell. I hope
that I have been of some assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
5/11/2004
Our pool continually gets a powdery fungus
in it…the water is clear but just light weight fungus. I’m so tired of my
husband spending every night after working cleaning the pool with the vacuum.
We have an ionizer. What do we need to make the chore easier? He was just out
of town for a week, and the pool didn’t get it’s daily cleaning and it’s taking
him hours to vacuum to clean the liner, sides and bottom of this fungus.
Our local pool people have been no help…and this has been going on for years,
since we had it installed, almost 10 years now. I suggest throwing out the
ionizer and going with a regular cleaning pump. Do you have a good suggestion?
Pat F. 9/25/2008
An ionizer is not a complete sanitizing system and requires regular additions
of an oxidizer, such as chlorine. Dealers like to down play this need for an
oxidizer or
chlorine, as a means of making the ionizer seem more attractive.
This mold, algae or fungus evidently has become resistant to the ionizer and
requires increased sanitizing and oxidation. That usually means chlorine.
The easiest and best way to do chlorine is with a
salt
chlorine generator.
A salt chlorine generator is chlorine without all the negatives. No chlorine
odor, no handling, storage or buying chlorine and much better water quality.
You'll have to buy some salt - common, non-iodized food grade or water softener
grade - inexpensive! Thereafter, you need to add more salt only to replace that
lost through pump out, splash out, backwashing or overflow. With a salt
chlorine generator, all you need to do is add an initial dose to stabilizer to
bring the level up to 40-60 PPM. Thereafter, the overall water chemistry should
be maintained in the usual manner. Because salt chlorinators destroy
chloramines so effectively, you will find the swimming conditions more pleasant
and easier to maintain.
You can continue to use the ionizer, with the salt chlorine generator, if you
choose.
Want to skim the pool surface with no effort at all? Check out
The Solar-Breeze Robotic Pool Skimmer.
Proper salt
level is important. Too little and not enough chlorine will be produced. Too
much could shorten the life of the salt cell. PockeTesters are the easy way to
test the salt level. I hope that this information has been helpful. I
hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 9/25/2008
►
Sequester Or Not
To Sequester?
We have many customers that
are switching to ozone, ionization or mineral cartridges. We live in an area that has
high mineral content, and to solve this issue we have had our customers use
heavy amounts of a sequestering agent. This has solved many of the staining and
discoloration issues. My question to you is will the use of a sequestering
agent inhibit the effects of a mineral cartridge using silver or zinc? And if
so what do you suggest to eliminate minerals while still using the mineral
cartridges if the customer doesn't have a water softener? Sincerely.
Justin N., 10/31/2003
Chemicals used to treat calcium and other metals can
interfere with ionizers and some
mineral sanitizers
- especially those that rely on copper and/or zinc. The FROG
Mineral Sanitizer utilizes silver ions and metal treatments should not
present a problem. While not all sequestering or
chelating agents may cause problems, I can't tell you which will or won't. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
10/31/2003
► A Case For Ionization?
We just bought a house with an indoor pool. It is a
bromine system now. The problem is I am very sensitive to bromine and
chlorine and I break out in a really bad skin rash, after swimming that takes
weeks to go away. I don't have the problem when I go into a lake or pond.
The ocean tends to dry out my skin, but doesn't give me a rash. If we
switch to ionization does that end the problem? I see that there are a
number of manufacturers - how do I know which product is better?
Some have cartridges to be replaced-are there electrodes that need to be
replaced? By how much will I reduce the amount of bromine needed in the
pool? It's a 16x32 foot pool 8-9 ft deep. Since we are going to be
using the pool a lot, through the year, what would be the better system? I
know I have asked too many questions for one day, sorry. But, we are very
excited to have the pool and I can't go in yet- please help.
Jonathon R., 4/25/2005
You have made a convincing case for avoiding chlorine and
bromine. However, it is not that simple! You can sanitize the pool
without chlorine or bromine, by using a
mineral sanitizer or an ionization unit.
However, you must add oxidizers to destroy organic wastes and contamination.
For this purpose
chlorine or bromine are frequently used, but in your case this would not make
sense. That leaves one other product: non-chlorine shock.
Still there is a complication. Unless you drain the pool and replace the
water, adding non-chlorine shock to the pool, will convert the bromides (from
bromine use) to active bromine sanitizer. And, if you were to drain
the pool, the addition of non-chlorine shock might still convert into chlorine,
based on the expected presence of some sodium chloride. Using an ionizer
or a mineral sanitizer and non-chlorine shock could still be worth considering,
as there would be less odor and less of a chlorine or bromine presence.
Something better would be the combination of ozone and ionization. An
ozone generator can
help eliminate all of the wastes. Ionization units use electrode plates to
add silver and copper ions to the pool, at controllable rates.
Mineral sanitizers use a less
controllable erosion principle and a mineral cartridge, to add metallic ions.
I hope that this
information will help you make the best decision. Please let me know how
things work out!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/26/2005
►
Ionization And Chlorine ?
We have a 120,000
litre ionised pool with spa to which we add 5L of liquid chlorine to weekly
in summer and about 3L in winter. The pool is always crystal clear. I have
recently started using a company to do the pool maintenance for me and they
keep telling me the chlorine levels are too low. Should an ionised pool
have a specific chlorine reading? The pH level is always too high
after 1 week (usually needs about 1 cup acid weekly) - is this normal or is
there a better product to use than liquid chlorine to maintain a better pH
level? Sorry, being Australian, I can only work with metric!
Wendy, Australia, 9/2/2007
Liquid chlorine is a good choice. You should maintain the
same free and total chlorine levels as any other chlorine-sanitized pool/spa.
Even though you have an ionizer, the levels should be the same. However, the
presence of an ionizer should allow you to use less chlorine to maintain any
given level. Liquid chlorine has a high pH and regular additions of
acid are required. Adding an
ozone generator
will reduce the amount of chlorine used and make pH control much less of an
issue. I hope that this information is helpful.
Alan Schuster, 9/3/2007
►
Ionization-Oxidation?
Dear Alan, your fame spreads
far and wide! Another couple of questions from the other side of the pond
(U.K.) I am considering fitting an ioniser, several manufacturers out
there, some use copper electrodes, some copper and silver, some use copper,
silver and zinc. from my own studies of bacterial research via the web it
appears that there is a synergy between copper and silver which provides a
kill rate at 4ppm which can only be matched by copper alone at 8ppm
therefore am I correct that the life of the electrodes (copper&silver) will
be longer due to the amount of ions required and also the electricity
required will be less saving the planet a bit more not too mention that
staining should be less? Second question, You do not seem to mention
that some manufacturers include a second pair of electrodes (titanium or
platinum) that are used to provide oxygen to burn up those impurities
normally carried out via chlorine, thus eliminating chlorine completely.
What are your thoughts? I have also found a German company that has
made diamond surfaced plates that produce 100% more oxygen than platinum
plates. Kind regards.
John W., U.K., 4/10/2007
I
will always have fond memories of the UK and the pool business, having
attended a trade show in Brighton, many years ago. Ionizers (forgive
the spelling) sanitize by releasing metallic ions: copper, silver and
zinc. As far as concentration is concerned, 4 or 8 PPM, is far too
high, as that would likely result in staining and discoloration problems.
Levels in the tenths of a PPM would be more appropriate, in a swimming pool.
While an ionizer helps sanitize the water, it is not a complete
system. Oxidation will still be required. Towards that end,
an Ionization-Oxidation device is more of a complete sanitizer. These
devices can have copper and zinc electrodes and electrodes for producing various forms
of active oxygen. Apart from thinking the plates are titanium with a
Platinum or Ruthenium coating, I have no knowledge of a diamond coating.
To make an Ionization-Oxidation unit much more of a complete sanitizer, you
should use it with
chlorine or bromine, at very low levels. It can be
challenging to totally eliminate chlorine, as its presence on a persistent
basis provides both sanitizing and oxidizing and it might be required,
occasionally, if the bather loads are high or conditions warrant. The
maintenance of a minimal level of chlorine or bromine, helps to confirm that
the sanitizing and oxidizing needs are being met. For
those that want to totally eliminate chlorine, Ionization-Oxidation
could be a route. Adding high efficiency filtration,
The Circulator
for improved circulation or a
UV
sanitizer will make success more
likely. If you want to minimize the use of chlorine, Ionization-Oxidation will surely accomplish that and more. I hope that this information proves useful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/10/2007
►
How Do Ionizers Work?
Could you explain how an Ionizer
works? Simply, if possible. Thank you very much.
Tom M., Ukiah, CA,
12/2/2003
Most Ionizers work on
the principle of adding a low level of silver and copper ions to the water.
Ions are the electrically charged soluble form of these metals. The copper
ions function as an algaecide. The silver ions function as a bactericide.
At these low levels, staining and precipitation should be eliminated. The
Ionization unit contains a silver and copper electrode and the regulation, of
the current between these electrodes, will control the amount of copper and
silver ions released into the pool water. The device is plumbed in line
and operates with the same cycle as the filter. A
Mineral Sanitizer is
another type of device, utilizing metallic ions and minerals,
instead of the electrodes. In either, case the sanitizing principle is
similar. In addition to the copper/silver Ionization, there must be oxidation.
For
this purpose chlorine or a non-chlorine shock are usually used, in order to destroy organic
contamination and build up and to destroy dead algae and debris. An
ozone generator can accomplish the
oxidation, while reducing the chemical usage. The
overall water chemistry must be maintained for bather comfort, water quality and
to protect the pool surfaces and equipment. These products will not
necessarily allow you to eliminate chlorine completely, but will allow you to
get satisfactory results, while maintaining a lower level. I hope that I have been of
assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
12/2/2003
► Floating Ionizer?
You've given me valuable information before about salt
water chlorinators. I've just come across a floating, solar-powered ionizer. How
do you rate this product compared with a salt water chlorinator?
Kevin R., United Kingdom, 4/5/2005
This product does not produce chlorine. It is an ionizer
and probably releases copper and silver ions into the pool water, when there is
sunlight to power the solar cells. Ionizers do not have to work 24/7 and this
type of unit might produce enough sanitizing ions, even if there are cloudy
periods. It is however, not a complete stand alone product.
It must be used with chlorine or other oxidizers, in order to destroy wastes and
to act as a proper sanitizer.
A
salt chlorine generator
is a much better choice, as it can act as a complete, stand alone, sanitizer.
I hope that I have explained the difference.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/5/2005
► Black Patches?
Hello, my name is Jan and I
live in Brisbane Australia which has a sub tropical climate. I have been
reading the interesting information on your web site, particularly with regard
to Vitamin C and pH reducer powder for clearing of stains. My problem is this.
I have a 50,000 litre in-ground copper ionised pool ( 2 sacrificial copper
anodes) with vinyl liner, which is now approx. 7 years old. Recently light
black patches of staining have appeared on the floor of the pool - less
noticeable when the pool is in full sunlight but once the shadows come over it,
they are quite obvious. I keep the pH at 7.4 - 7.6 and the water is very
sparkling and clear. What would you suggest I use to get rid of the staining -
could the abovementioned treatments be of help to me? I get a bit despondent
with pool shop people as they all seem to give such differing opinions on what
one should do, so mostly I look after it myself now and I have to say it appears
to be in very good shape - apart from the staining of course!
Thanks you very much in anticipation of your help. Regards.
Jan B., Brisbane, Australia,
4/15/2005
Trying to
apply vitamin C and pH reducer granules to the blackened areas is worth trying.
If the cause of the staining is copper, especially likely in the presence of
high calcium hardness levels, it could be successful. And if that is the
case, I would pay more attention to the copper level and try and keep the pH at
7.2-7.4. However, there are other possible causes for such a problem:
algae, leaf stains and a fungus growing on the reverse side of the liner.
For the latter, there is little to be done and it will not respond to chemicals
being added to the pool water. Shock treatment can help deal with algae
and leaf stains. People using ionizers usually try to avoid chlorine, but
sometimes it is necessary to solve a problem. An
ozonator is a practical way to oxidize
the wastes and reduce the chemicals being added for oxidation. Black algae sometimes
requires a regimen. Browse through the archives on that subject, for
additional insight. Good luck and I hope that this information will help.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/15/2005
► Too Much Copper?
Thanks great website. I need your
help I have a pool guy coming to clean my pool every week suddenly
the pool sides are turning blue and under the pump where it was leaking it is
purple this has been going on for a week now. He says everything is fine as far
as the chemicals are concerned. the pool is in ground 20x40
the water looks clear but the sides and the baskets are turning a sky blue.
Can you help? Also I also have a copper ionizer, as well .
Joe K., 5/11/2006
I am not sure
what kind of ionizer you have, but I suspect that your problem is too much
copper. It could be set too high. I suggest that you have
the water tested for copper and manganese.
Treatment may be necessary and that can present a problem with an ionization
unit. The stains may require using ascorbic or oxalic acid. Try
placing a few vitamin C tablets on a stained area. If it works, the pool should
be treated.
You may have
to lower the pH of the pool to 6.0, discharge all
of the chlorine and add a few pounds of the oxalic or ascorbic acids.
I hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/11/2006
You were right it has a high
content of copper. It is recommended to unhook the ionizer, which
uses copper electrodes and empty half the water and then treat. Would that
be your recommendations? Thanks so much. I will recommend
this site to all my pool buddies
Joe K., 5/12/2006
That would lower
the copper content and make more staining less likely, but you still have to
deal with the stains. In the future, operate the ionizer at a lower
setting.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/12/2006
►
The Shocking Story?
I have been using an Ionizer on
my pool for several years. I was instructed to use a non-chlorine shock,
on a regular basis. I understand the need to shock the water because the
Ionizer will not destroy organics and dead algae. I am wondering if I can
use a chlorine shock, instead of the non-chlorine shock? I like the
Ionizer, but maybe chlorine shock would be more convenient and cheaper? Thanks.
Bill W,
6/4/2004
Most people, buying a
Ionizer, do so to avoid chlorine completely. The combination of an Ionizer
and non-chlorine shock does just that. So far as I know, ionization units
can be used with chlorine or non-chlorine shock or, better still, an
ozone generator. The presence of an
ionizer will allow you to maintain ideal conditions with less chlorine.
I know that certain
mineral sanitizer
products, ones that work on a erosion principle, may not be able to be used in bromine-treated
pool water, but can be used with chlorine. These products will not
necessarily allow you to eliminate chlorine completely, but will allow you to
get satisfactory results, while maintaining a lower level. In any event, I suggest that
you follow the manufacturer's recommendations, so as to assure proper
functionality and product life. I hope this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/4/2004
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