mineral sanitizers: alternative pool water sanitizing using mineral purifiers

Mineral Sanitizers are devices that supply a stream of metallic ions to the swimming pool water, functioning as an algaecide and as a bactericide. Used properly, the ions are maintained at very low levels, avoiding the possibility of staining or discoloration. Mineral Sanitizers accomplish the release of the sanitizing ions without the use of electrical circuits, as is the case with Ionization units. Mineral Sanitizers are not stand alone pool water treatment products. Mineral Sanitizers can reduce the total amount of chemicals required for proper pool water maintenance, but cannot destroy organic buildup or contamination and cannot destroy dead microorganisms and organic debris. The reliance on metallic ions for sanitizing, requires oxidation and the use of products such as: chlorine, bromine, non-chlorine shock or ozone. Not all of these oxidizers can be used with all Mineral Sanitizers: check with the manufacturer before adding chemicals, as to any limitations that might be suggested. The overall water chemistry should be based upon the manufacturer's recommendations. Clicking on the underlined and highlighted "keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will give you access to additional information on that topic or product. Please refer to the Glossary, if there are terms or phrases that require explanation.

I have a Mineral Sanitizer installed on my above ground pool. I supplement it with some granular chlorine and shock. It seems to be doing a good job. My question is how does it work? Thanks.

Mineral Sanitizers release metallic ions into the water on a controlled basis. It i

s done without the use of electrical circuits, as is the case with Ionization units. The mineral ions act to help control algae and bacteria. When used in a typical chlorine sanitized pool, a mineral purifier will reduce the amount of chlorine required. Mineral Sanitizers cannot destroy organic wastes and byproducts or destroy dead algae and debris and it is recommended that the water be shocked on a regular basis, for this purpose. Because Mineral Sanitizers have so little effect on the water chemistry, control of the pH and total alkalinity is less demanding. I hope that I have been helpful.

I use THE FROG mineral system and chlorine pack for my above ground pool. Since it is supposed to be a low chlorine system I'm wondering if I still need to shock the pool periodically? If so should I use non chlorine shock in order to keep the pool at a low level of chlorine? Should I shock it when I open it? Thanks.

Karin S., 5/18/2004

Yes!!! Yes!!! Yes!!! Shock periodically to destroy waste accumulations and help prevent resistant microorganisms from developing. You can use a non-chlorine shock, as it does well at reducing the combined chlorines. When you open the pool, you will need to shock with enough chlorine to establish a stable free chlorine level and clear up pool. The Mineral Sanitizer will help you maintain quality water, while reducing the amount of chlorine required to maintain a satisfactory free chlorine level. I hope the information helps. Enjoy the season.

Your website is a great source of information that I found while doing research on alternate pool sanitizer solutions. Thank you for your time in providing this service. I hope this isn't a repeat, but I didn't find the specific info on the mineral sanitizers, and specifically not any comparison between the two in terms of effectiveness, cost and ease of use. I would very much like to know your thoughts on the relative merits of the mineral sanitizers and salt water chlorine generators.

Gene G., Madison, AL, 7/7/2004

A salt chlorinator is a complete pool sanitizing system. About all you'll need on a regular basis is some acid to lower the pH. It is like maintaining a chlorine pool without the headaches or the handling of chlorine. It is highly automated and controllable. Need more chlorine - just dial it up. A mineral sanitizer adds metallic ions to control algae and bacteria. You will still have to add chlorine or non-chlorine shock on a regular basis, to perform the necessary oxidizing function. In either case, the water chemistry must be maintained. A salt chlorinator will cost more initially. While I don't have specific figures, I suspect that over the life of the unit, the cost will be very competitive and possibly lower depending upon individual circumstances. Some salt cells are rated to last 5 years or more, depending upon the location. Mineral sanitizer cartridges have life expectancies that about 6 months, by comparison. You can use both products together. That will allow you to maintain a lower level of free chlorine and that will make control of the pH easier and extend the life of the salt cell. I hope that the information proves to be helpful.

Maybe you could settle a bet once and for all. Myself and a buddy (who also owns a pool) both use a mineralizer system. Many people tell me it's a placebo effect but I know it works and I swear by it. I have 0.5 chlorine levels and my water is always balanced. Here's the question: My buddy was told that the requirement to replace the cartridge once per season is artificially created by the manufacturer. He states that as long as you can shake the cartridge and hear plenty of "minerals" in it, it will still continue to work. The instructions state that the mineral mix will become inert after a period of 6 months so even if you here them. Any comments from the water chemist side of the house? I would hate to be prematurely throwing my cartridge out as the price of these things keep going up every year and I would like to maximize my investment. Thx in advance, your site is terrific. Regards,

Brian W., 8/14/2006

Does the house get to skim a piece of the wager? I am sure that the product was intended to last about 6 months, which works out fine for the northern area. In the south, you'll need two for the year. As the water passes thru the unit, metallic ions are allowed to enter solution. How much and how fast can depend on flow rate thru the unit, temperature and time. The unit is expected to last 6 months, dispensing an adequate amount. As the metals become depleted, the rate of addition starts to fall off. By 6 months, a replacement is suggested to assure that there is a continuing supply on the sanitizing ions. Otherwise, algae could grow abruptly! The media inside the mineral sanitizer, consists minerals, other than those that release the metallic ions. The cartridge will always have material inside, but it may no longer function. It is not a placebo and replacement at 6 months is the only way to assure continuing performance. Enjoy the season!

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/14/2006

Hi Alan. Have you ever heard of a natural enzyme product? If so, could you use this effectively with a mineral sanitizer to eliminate chlorine? Thanks.

There's no reason that you cannot use an enzyme product with a m

ineral sanitizer. It can help eliminate oily residues and some organic byproducts, but it will not replace the chlorine. Mineral sanitizers require the occasional presence of oxidizing agents, such as chlorine to decompose wastes and organic buildup. You will still need chlorine, but 1 PPM should be sufficient, for most pools. Enzymes are not oxidizing agents. If you want to minimize chemical additions and still provide the necessary oxidation, an Ozone Generator is just what you need. For more information about Ozone and Ozone Generators visit: www.waterquality.net I hope that the information proves useful.

Dear Alan, your fame spreads far and wide! Another couple of questions from the other side of the pond (U.K.) I am considering fitting an ioniser, several manufacturers out there, some use copper electrodes, some copper and silver, some use copper, silver and zinc. from my own studies of bacterial research via the web it appears that there is a synergy between copper and silver which provides a kill rate at 4ppm which can only be matched by copper alone at 8ppm therefore am I correct that the life of the electrodes (copper & silver) will be longer due to the amount of ions required and also the electricity required will be less saving the planet a bit more not too mention that staining should be less? Second question, You do not seem to mention that some manufacturers include a second pair of electrodes (titanium or platinum) that are used to provide oxygen to burn up those impurities normally carried out via chlorine, thus eliminating chlorine completely. What are your thoughts? I have also found a German company that has made diamond surfaced plates that produce 100% more oxygen than platinum plates. Kind regards.

John W., U.K., 4/10/2007

I will always have fond memories of the UK and the pool business, having attended a trade show in Brighton, many years ago. Ionizers (forgive the spelling) sanitize by releasing metallic ions: copper, silver and zinc. As far as concentration is concerned, 4 or 8 PPM, is far too high, as that would likely result in staining and discoloration problems. Levels in the tenths of a PPM would be more appropriate, in a swimming pool. While an ionizer helps sanitize the water, it is not a complete system. Oxidation will still be required. Towards that end, a TechnoPure Ionization-Oxidation device is more of a complete sanitizer. These devices can have copper and zinc electrodes and electrodes for producing various forms of active oxygen. Apart from thinking the plates are titanium with a Platinum or Ruthenium coating, I have no knowledge of a diamond coating. To make an Ionization-Oxidation unit much more of a complete sanitizer, you could use it with chlorine or bromine, at very low levels. It can be challenging to totally eliminate chlorine, as its presence on a persistent basis provides both sanitizing and oxidizing and it might be required, occasionally, if the bather loads are high or conditions warrant. The maintenance of a minimal level of chlorine or bromine, helps to confirm that the sanitizing and oxidizing needs are being met. For those that want to totally eliminate chlorine, Ionization-Oxidation could be a route. Adding high efficiency filtration, The Circulator for improved circulation or a UV sanitizer will make success more likely. If you want to minimize the use of chlorine, Ionization-Oxidation will surely accomplish that and more. I hope that this information proves useful.

Thanks for going to the trouble of running your web site. It is a big help! Now, on to my problem…The first three years I had my inground pool, I would get the water tested weekly and it was always perfect. I figured, “Hey! This ain’t that hard.” At about the three year point, I added solar heating. Since I have a pool automation system, I programmed it to maintain the water at 83 degrees. The second thing I did around that time frame was to replace my mineral sanitizer cartridge. However, the large model I was used to was no longer made and I had to make do with one about 2/3rds the size. The last thing that changed was that I added a pool cleaner, which I kept in the pool full time. Well, paradise is over and the once a week maintenance on water chemistry I used to do is now about three times a week and I cannot get a grip on what is wrong. Water check is not bad (today), pH a little low and combined chlorine at 2 which is way off, so I added three tablets to my chlorinator to bring that in line. Very little rain. Not real sunny, though this is Florida. Basically, I’ve gone from once a week maintenance to three times a week and I’m not really getting anywhere. I have not added an algaecide at this point because I feel that well balanced water should prevent any algae bloom. I used to add 2 tablets of chlorine every week and that was perfect, now it is 2 tablets every other day and doesn’t seem like enough. Well, that’s the history and all the facts I hope you need. Specific questions are can I run the pool cleaner all the time; does the setting of 83 degrees on the automation controller affect anything adversely; and does the smaller mineral purifier cartridge present a problem? I haven’t changed the cartridge in a while, but I’m not wholly convinced that it really needs to be changed every six months like ‘they’ are saying in the local pool store. I keep the filter clean and the attached spa and pool steps gets brushed down for algae when needed. I really thought I had a handle on all this stuff but now, I realize I don’t and I’m needing help. Thanks again for hosting the site and I hope to hear from you soon.

Warmer water does place extra demands on the sanitizing system. However, 83 degree is not high and should not be part of this problem. The fact that you are getting a combined chlorine level of 2 PPM, would seem to indicate that you are not keeping up with the demand of the pool. I suggest that you use a non-chlorine shock, as it will help convert some of the combined chlorine into free chlorine. The mineral sanitizer cartridge does not last indefinitely and should be replaced every 6-months. All things point to the possibility that it should be replaced. I think that it is time to replace the cartridge. Replace the cartridge, shock with monopersulfate or chlorine and see if you can't keep the free chlorine at 1-3 PPM and the combined chlorine at less than 1 PPM. Testing with a tester like the LaMotte Insta-Test Strips will help provide the right information. You might also want to have the water tested for phosphates, as that can accelerate algae growth. The use of trichlor can lead to increases in the cyanuric acid levels over time. These higher stabilizer levels can lead to chlorine becoming less effective - that is you'll need to maintain a higher level to get the same results. Over 150 PPM is high and requires a partial water replacement. Have you ever considered a salt chlorine generator. You seem to want to make things easier. A SCG can be a stand alone sanitizing system. It can be used with the mineral sanitizer and will allow you to maintain a lower chlorine level, extend the life of the salt cell and make pH control easier, with no chemical buildups to be concerned about. You'll have less odor, better feel and no more chlorine to buy, handle or store. I hope that this information will get you back on track.

Hi Alan, I know I am dense, but I want to get this straight. The mineral sanitizer instructions say to use a shock before each use and 3 TBS each week. If I add an ozonator, then I no longer have to use the shock. Is this right? Thanks.

It's a really good question. The ozonator will provide the necessary oxidation function and the copper/silver mineral sanitizer will provide the sanitizing action. The ozone does not remain in the water for extended periods of time and for this reason a persistent backup sanitizer is required. Unless the pool takes a sudden turn for the worse and needs a quick boost in oxidizer, shock should not be required, if you maintain a 1 PPM level of free chlorine. But, that is unlikely to happen, if the pool and equipment are operated properly. You will be better off trying to maintain a concentration of free chlorine that favors to lower end of the 1-3 PPM range and this will act as confirmation that the ozonator and mineral sanitizer are working to meet the needs of the pool. I hope that I have cleared it up for you.

We have many customers that are switching to ozone, ionization or mineral cartridges. We live in an area that has high mineral content, and to solve this issue we have had our customers use heavy amounts of a sequestering agent. This has solved many of the staining and discoloration issues. My question to you is will the use of a sequestering agent inhibit the effects of a mineral cartridge using silver or zinc? And if so what do you suggest to eliminate minerals while still using the mineral cartridges if the customer doesn't have a water softener? Sincerely.

Chemicals used to treat calcium and other metals can interfere with ionizers and some mineral sanitizers -- especially those that rely on copper and/or zinc. The FROG Mineral Sanitizer utilizes silver ions and metal treatments should not present a problem. While not all sequestering or chelating agents may cause problems, I can't tell you which will or won't. I hope that I have been helpful.

We have used a mineral sanitizer system for the last 2 years with great results. We can keep our chlorine levels low and the water stays perfectly clear. This year, my wife has seen info that indicates that this system may not be good for the pool, as it introduces copper into the water Can you please shed some light on this subject? Thanks.

Mineral sanitizers and ionization units usually release a stream of metallic ions, into the pool water, for the purpose of providing sanitizing benefits. The ions are at extremely low levels, so as not to cause staining and/or discoloration. I assume that this is the issue that you were addressing. The FROG Mineral Sanitizer utilizes silver ions and does not contribute any copper to the water. The instances, where copper can present a problem, result from the use of copper sulfate, corrosion of copper heater cores or excessively high concentrations, due to over application. I hope that I have provided some enlightenment.

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