Ozone Generators for Pools

	Ozone Generators are very effective means of oxidizing pool wastes and organics.  However, its presence in pool water quickly depletes and can benefit greatly, from the presence of lower level of chlorine or bromine or sanitizing metallic ions.  Click for Product and Ordering Information.

How to use an ozonator, to help sanitize a pool? Ozone (O3) is a form of Oxygen (O2) and is a powerful oxidizing agent that can control microorganisms, destroy organic contamination, byproduct build ups, dead algae and organic debris. It is not a complete sanitizer in the truest sense, because it does not remain in the water for long periods of time. In a swimming pool, there must be a backup sanitizer such as, chlorine or bromine, usually at about 1/2 the normal level. Because the ozonator does most of the oxidizing, far less chlorine or bromine will be required to maintain any given level. Ozonators, also known as Ozone Generators, can greatly reduce the quantity of the backup sanitizer that would, otherwise, be required. This is especially important in larger pools, heavy bather usage situations and commercial pools. The devices that generate Ozone fall into two categories: UV or Corona discharge. Commercial pools, larger residential pools or heavy bather load pools should utilize a corona-discharge unit, as it is capable of producing larger amounts of ozone. With ozonation, the water chemistry should be maintained in the typical manner. If problems arise, refer to the Pool Problems Page, as a source of problem-solving information, broken down into various categories.  Scroll down the page and click on the linked keywords, catch phrases or images, in the archived answers below, to access additional information, on that topic or product.

► Ozone, Chlorine And ORP?

I have a system with an ozone generator and a controller for pH and ORP on my swimming pool. I keep my pH at 7.5 and my ORP at 700. The one thing I have always been confused about is how long to run my filter pump. And what should the Chlorine level be? I've been told I can use almost no chlorine, if I run my system 24 hours a day. Presently I am maintaining a chlorine level of about 0.4 - 0.6 ppm and run my filter for 10 - 12 hours a day, usually for 12 hours during summer and when the pool is heated. I'd like to minimize chlorine usage. As I see it, it's a trade off between chemical usage, electricity for the pump and how much chlorine in the water I'm willing to deal with. Is my practice an acceptable one, or would you suggest otherwise? Thank you.

Ken C., 4/23/2012

You're right. It is a trade off. I suggest that you continue as you are doing. It is not a good idea to give up on the chlorine, as its presence acts as confirmation that proper sanitation exists. With the ozone generator, it will take little chlorine to maintain this lower than normal level. The big negative, about chlorine, is formation of odorous and irritating chloramines. In your pool, this is not a problem because the ozone destroys the chloramines. Chlorine acts as a persistent sanitizer and helps backup the ozone. You seem to have things well in hand. All I can suggest is that you operate the filter and ozonator for two sessions per day, by dividing the current running times in half. That way the pool will be without ozone being produced for fewer hours at a time.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/24/2012

► Too Much Ozone?

► Ozone: how does it work?

How do pool Ozonators work? Will other chemicals and chlorine still be required? Thanks for the help. Sincerely.

Jason H., Reading, PA, 7/24/2010

There are two common methods of generating ozone in a pool. Most units pass air over a UV light source, that converts oxygen into ozone. Others units use corona discharge (electric sparking similar to lightning) to convert oxygen into ozone. The corona discharge units can produce higher quantities of ozone. In a swimming pool, the ozone can destroy organic matter, including algae and bacteria. The Ozone Generator is usually operated in conjunction with the timer and the filter. Once the Ozonator is shut off, all production of ozone ceases and the ozone in the water quickly leaves - there is no residual effect. At this point, the pool is subject to microbial growth, especially on the walls and in the corners. Because of this limitation of ozone, there must be a backup sanitizer, most often chlorine or bromine. However, the Ozonator will reduce the amount of chlorine or bromine required, to a fraction of what it would be, otherwise. So far as the overall water chemistry is concerned, it must be maintained in consideration of water clarity and quality, bather comfort and corrosiveness. I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/24/2010


► High Chlorine Levels?

Alan-we have a new indoor pool and are having trouble keeping the chlorine level down. The pool is used primarily by one swimmer, and is covered around 23 hours per day. We’ve been using a dichlor shock treatment once a week per instructions. I’ve shut our chlorinator (which uses 3” tablets) off entirely. With the chlorinator off for more than one week now, and with a shock per above one day ago, our readings are total chlorine (between 3 and 10), free chlorine (10+), with pH, total alkalinity, and stabilizer at normal levels.  When the cover comes off, there is a definite chlorine odor. The pool has an ozone generator, and a floating and a mineral sanitizer. I suspect that with no sunshine burn off, and limited bather use, there is limited consumption of chlorine. Is the solution to not shock and dribble in very little chlorine, or shock using less shock product? We’re literally itching for an answer! Thanks!

Stephen R., Alaska, 1/31/2009

I can see from your email address why the pool is indoors. I do have an answer for you, but it may not, entirely, be the one you expect. Stop adding all chlorine: either in the form of tablets or shock! Your pool is equipped with an ozonator and a Mineral Sanitizer, is located indoors, is covered most of the time and not subject to high bather loads. This means that the ozonator and the mineral sanitizer should be more than capable of meeting all of your pool's sanitizer requirements. The chlorine levels are building up because there is nothing for them to react with - just as you might have suspected. The recommendations for chlorination and shocking were probably made based on the pool NOT being equipped with an ozonator and mineral sanitizer.  The only time you will ever need to shock the pool is at the first sign of a loss of water quality or after periods of heavy bather usage.  Under these circumstances use a full strength chlorine or non-chlorine shock. The equipment that you have is what I frequently recommend to pool owners that are sensitive to either chlorine or bromine. I hope that this will solve the problem.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/1/2009

► Measuring Ozone Levels?

I received the ozone tester. What should the optimum reading be? I see there are 4 levels - 0.01ppm, 0.025, 0.05 and 0.10. Thanks.

Peter B., 5/6/2005

Thank you for ordering the Ozone Test Kit. I don't believe that there is a standard for ozone. Ozone is short lived, with about 1/2 lasting for only 20 minutes. It reacts almost instantly with organic matter, has limited solubility in water and gasses off. All this conspires to make ozone testing challenging. It is best done right at the return jet. The presence of measurable amounts of ozone, in the return flow, confirms that the ozone generator is working. All that should be present, are the low levels shown on the test kit. Higher levels, especially in indoor situation could prove irritating. Equally important are the facts that the ozonator size (output) should be adequate for the spa water volume, that it be operated for sufficient periods of time and that a backup sanitizer, such as chlorine, bromine or a Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizers be used. Now that you have confirmed that ozonation is occurring, you need to maintain the backup sanitizer at about 1/2 of the normal concentration. Good luck with the spa and thanks for ordering the test kit.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/6/2005


► Why Aren't Ozonators More Popular?

Ozonators sound like a good idea. So why are they not very popular? Is it good for a lazy pool owner?

John W., 6/24/2005

They may not be as popular as chlorine, but their popularity is increasing in all types of residential and commercial pools. The use of ozone generators has been widespread in spas for many years. Ozonators are not complete stand alone pool sanitizers. A backup system, usually chlorine or bromine must be used. A salt chlorine generator can be used in conjunction with an ozonator and will provide additional benefits. Mineral sanitizers and ionizers can also be used in conjunction with ozone and chlorine, to provide backup sanitizing and reduce the chlorine usage. In addition, all of the important water chemistry parameters must be maintained, as in a chlorine-maintained pool. Yes, it is convenient. Yes, it will reduce the overall requirements for sanitizer and will simplify chemical balancing. Yes, it is good for "lazy" pool owners. There are other choices that might be worthy of your consideration. Salt chlorine generators can completely eliminate the need for any chlorine and there is no need for a backup. Still the water chemistry must be maintained. But isn't that what pool service companies are for? I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/24/2005


► Chlorine And Ozone?

I purchased a pool with an ozone generator this last summer and had the pool company come and start it up for me. They mentioned that if I had a pool service come out to work on my pool they would tell me something is wrong with my pool as there are air bubbles in my filter pump that are being pushed out to my pool - the ozonator manufacturer states this is absolutely normal. He was telling me that these bubbles will ruin my filters and I will find myself replacing them much sooner than if I didn't have an ozonator. He at one point bluntly made the statement that they are fancy pieces of equipment that don't actually work - that bugged me. He also pointed out that the pressure in the filter casing was below 10lbs. My pool company told me is should be below 10 at all times, if it gets above ten that I need to clean the filters. This pool service guy told me that it should be between 15 and 20 lbs at all times to keep the filters from expanding and contracting which, according to him (the pool guy), will ruin my filters. I have been toying with the idea of putting in a switch that will shut off the air flow from the ozonator to see what kind of performance differences I get by running straight chlorine vs. chlorine with an ozonator. Your comments? Thanks.

Chris K., TX, 4/1/2005

An ozone generator should be installed before the pump, so that the proper venturi effect will be created. Doing this sends ozone through the filter and results in a cleaner filter with less debris and oily accumulations. That's why you see bubbles and why there will be longer filter runs. The pressure is staying lower, in part, because of the action of the ozone. Unless your filter manufacturer give you information to the contrary, I don't see a problem. You don't have to install a switch to shut off the air flow to see what will happen. I can tell you! You will positively use more chlorine and that should make the "pool guy" happy. Ozonators and chlorine work well together. A case of they said vs. he said. Simple as that. I hope that I have shed some light on the subject.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/1/2005


► Ozone Is Not Always Enough?

I have a 40000 liter above ground therapy pool. This means it is kept at 94 deg. at all times and that only 2 people are in the water at a time. The pool is lined with a thick PVC liner, n a closed enclosure and covered during the night. The filter is a 3/4 HP with zeolite filter. It runs 24/7circulating all the water every3 hours. Sanitation is ozone only- a GDS process with a sidestream injection and contact tank. Ozone generator is controlled by an inline ORP controller, measuring water returning from the pool and keeping them at 680-780 mv. Pool pH is kept around 7.3. 6 months ago I enlarged my pool (took it apart and added new segments. All above data is post op.) Ever since then, the walls of the new segments, lined with the same kind of liner, are becoming slimy slippery. I have been scrubbing it off every week and it just keeps coming back. I have tried super-chlorinating, which seems to keep it clean for 3-4 days, but then its back .if I let it be it eventually spreads to the 'old' parts of the pool. Could it have something to do with ozone-zeolite reaction? Could ozone be sucking plasticizers out of the liner( and still doing it after 6 month's). I will be glad to add any more info you need to speculate this. Tnx.

Nir Z., 12/7/2008

There is no mystery here!!! Ozone generators are great additions to any pool, spa or therapy pool. While they do a great job at reducing the biological loads and waste products, they cannot be used alone and achieve proper results. Ozone does not remain in the water very long and will be unable to prevent the growth of algal or bacterial slimes on the walls or in the corners. To keep all of the underwater surfaces free of microorganism growth, it is mandatory to use a sanitizer such as chlorine or bromine. Because the ozone generator will be doing most of the oxidation, the amount of chlorine required, to maintain any given level, will be greatly reduced. In other words, you still should be maintaining at least a low level of chlorine or bromine and, to do so, it will require less chemical, than if the ozone generator was not present. Chlorine and bromine are persistent sanitizers and having the ozonator present, allows their use to focus on sanitizing.  When the ozone generator is off, the chlorine or bromine will still be present to sanitize and oxidize. Adding a Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizer adds another layer of persistent sanitation and  helps you maintain proper conditions, while favoring the low end of the recommended chlorine or bromine range. No mention of chlorine use was mentioned in your letter, except to help clean up the microorganism growth. If you were not directed to add and maintain a chlorine or bromine level, you were ill-informed or mislead. Just  an ORP Test is not enough. The high operating temperature only adds to the problem. The zeolite is not part of this problem. At this point, you need to shock the pool and get a stable free chlorine level and all traces of slime removed. From this point forward, try to maintain a free chlorine level of 1-2 PPM or a bromine level of 2-4 PPM, while operating the ozone generator for as much time, as practical. I hope that this information will be helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/8/2008


► Ozone Generating Bromine?

Thinking back to my chemistry days I was hoping that NaBr + O3 = NaOBr which is a very powerful sanitizer! When you back out the O3 you would just be left with good 'ole Sodium Bromide. And with Ozone being an extremely powerful oxidizer (more potent than MPS or Chlorine) this alone would convert the Sodium Bromide into Hypobromous Acid. Please let me know your thoughts on this!

Shawn K., 11/12/2008

The chemistry may be right, but it won't work that way, in a pool or spa. Not enough ozone is present, for long enough to generate a measurable amount of bromine. If that were not the case, the bromine concentration would rise, as ozone wasproduced. Some years ago, a special unit was designed with a reaction chamber and a high ozone output. It turned out to be too costly a way to generate bromine.  The UltraPure ozone generators are better performers, than most others on the market. Some ozonators are dead, after only a few months. Just because you see bubbles, doesn't mean ozone is being produced. Testing Ozone is simple, but needs to be done right at the return. In most cases, you should smell ozone, as the spa cover is removed. In practical terms the goal should not be to totally eliminated all use of chlorine or bromine, but to minimize the use and lower the concentration. Towards that goal, the use of an ozone generator, a Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizer and a lower than usual level of chlorine or bromine is achievable. I am a believer in having something to measure and test. Finding a chlorine or bromine level, acts as confirmation that the ozonator is performing properly, if only small amounts of bromine or chlorine are required. I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/12/2008


► Minimizing Chemicals?

After reading more of your advise to others, I am wondering if we could get away with using NO chlorine by using an ozonator along with a mineral pac or an ionizer. We are getting a small (3,600 gals.) fiberglass pool which will be covered with a 4" spa cover, and will also be under a patio cover, used by 2 adults. We plan to keep the pool at 87-90 degrees. What would you recommend? Would our filter (sand) have to run longer if we do not use chlorine or a salt chlorinator? What other additives/tests would we need to use, and would we have to be extra careful to add fresh water, because of the pool being covered all the time? Is it smarter to just go with a salt chlorinator? Our pool installer is discouraging us from use the salt chlorinator, and if indeed we can get by with no chlorine, that would be ideal. However, we want to keep things simple as well as clean, and safe. I'm obviously in the dark about pool chemistry and appreciate any insight that you can offer. Thanks.

Patty, Tucson, AZ, 10/20/2004

What you are proposing will work. Just make sure that the ozonator is properly sized for your pool. The combination of an ozone generator and a Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizer will work well, even at higher temperatures, as this combination is popular in spas. For the sake of bather comfort and water quality, the overall pool water chemistry must be maintained in the typical manner. This combination should not require filtration practices that are different from typical pools of the same size and configuration. By adding The Circulator, you will dramatically improve circulation and eliminate dead zones. This makes it possible to send ozone to the four corners of the pool, achieving optimum performance. Another means of minimizing chemical usage is with ultraviolet sanitizing. Adding a UV sanitizer will allow you to use as much as 70% less chlorine or bromine, killing virtually all of the microorganisms, as the water flows through the unit. I would still advise the use of a low level of chlorine, as it confirm that proper conditions exist. All it should take is a 0.5-1.5 PPM level. There is be little sensation of chlorine and the amount used, to maintain this level, will be much less. You may not eliminate chlorine, but you will come close. I hope that this information will prove to be helpful. Please tell your friends and dealers about the website.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/20/2004


► Ozone And Bromine In A Pool?

Hi, I have a 32,000 gallon pool and I have an OZONATOR and I use Bromine. I have two questions. First the water seems to have a sweet smell, is this due to the ozone? I have never noticed it in past years. If it is from the ozone does it mean the ozone level is too high? My second question is everyone says an ozonator can save on sanitizer. How do I know what level of Bromine to maintain and what are the signs the Bromine level is too low? Thank You.

D. D., 6/14/2004

A poet once described ozone as smelling like ocean waves crashing on the rocks. It is possible that you are detecting some ozone, at times when it might be high. Without an ozone generator you would need to maintain 3-5 PPM of bromine. With the ozonator, you should be able to manage with 1-3 PPM and it will require less bromine to maintain. Even if you maintained the same 3-5 PPM level, it would still take less bromine, because of the ozonator. Bromine levels can be measured by a simple test. Any sign of a loss of water quality can signal inadequate ozonation or bromine levels. Cloudy water or algae are the most obvious signs of the need to improve sanitizing. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/14/2004


► Bromine Usage and Ozone?

I have a 25K gallon in ground pool that uses bromine for sanitation. We have had the pool for 9 years and it is 15 years old currently. It has been relatively easy to maintain. My question is that with bromine, we have to shock the pool almost every other day in the peak of summer when it is used a lot and the water temp is up around 80. I am assuming that this is because bromine is un-stabilized and degrades quickly from the Sun. So the real question is what type of auto generating systems can we add to this pool to ease the high volume of shocking? Looking at Ozonators, Salt Generators, etc, but find very little info when it comes to supporting a bromine system. Thanks for your help.

Scott R., 4/2/2008

This is a good question and you are wise to ask it. Even if you stop using bromine, bromide ions will remain. Adding chlorine will convert the bromides to bromine and the process keeps recycling. If you add a salt chlorine generator, it will have to be set at a higher than normal setting and this will shorten the life of the cell and create more of a pH rise. Many salt chlorine generator manufacturers do not recommend having bromides present. An ozone generator is not a stand alone sanitizing system. It needs back up. It provides oxidation without the addition of chemicals that lead to chemistry changes or buildup. If you use an ozone generator, it will carry the burden of the oxidations or wastes and organic byproducts. That leaves the bromine for sanitizing and backup. Under these circumstances, you will need far less bromine and should be able to set the goal at a lower 1-2 PPM level. Because bromides are present, you can use the less expensive chlorine to maintain the low bromine level, as it will be converted.  Adding a Solar-Powered Mineralizer, which can be used with bromine and ozone, will provide persistent backup and help minimize bromine or chlorine use.  I hope that this information will prove to be helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/3/2008


► Ozone And Chlorine In A Pool?

My pool is currently being maintained, by myself, with chlorine tablets in a feeder. I have gotten good results so far, but the dealer recently told me that I will have to replace half of the pool water, the next few months, because the stabilizer level is getting too high. Is that necessary? If I were to add an ozonator to the pool, would that be helpful? Thanks for the input.

Jeff D., Sunrise, FL, 1/4/2005

It is good practice to replace some of the pool water, when the cyanuric acid level rises above 150 PPM, as high levels will decrease the efficiency of the chlorine. In short, you'll be forced to maintain a higher, than normal, level of free chlorine. Adding an ozonator would be very helpful! The ozonator would provide much of the needed oxidizing function that is necessary to destroy wastes, dead algae and debris. This means that you'll need to add less chlorine to maintain a satisfactory free chlorine level. Adding less chlorine will not only save money, but it will slow up the increases in cyanuric acid levels that are due to the addition of the chlorine. In addition, I would expect that you'll have fewer algae problems, because it is less likely that the free chlorine levels will deplete quickly. I hope that the information will be of help.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/4/2005


► Ozone And UV Sanitizing Together?

Is there any systems in which you can use an ozonator and UV? So no need for Chlorine or Bromine. Also what are your feelings on Steel vs. Concrete pools under the vinyl? Thanks.

John S., 4/27/2008

The easy one first. I would choose concrete: it's stronger, doesn't rust and the walls will not bow or flex. You can add UV Sanitizing and an Ozone Generator, but as two separate units. It will virtually assure you that the return flow will be devoid of living algae and bacteria. However, the pool walls and water can still support algae and bacteria. Keeping a low level of chlorine, about 1 PPM, will prevent growth in the pool and on the walls. The ozonator will carry the burden of oxidizing wastes and very little chlorine will actually be required. The odorous form of chlorine will be destroyed, as the water returns to the pool. There should be little or no sensation of chlorine. The fact that you will be able to maintain this low level of free chlorine, with only minimal amounts of chemicals, will act as confirmation that proper conditions exist and that everything is functioning properly. If you add the relatively inexpensive Circulators, to your returns, that will eliminate any dead zones that could promote algal and bacterial growth. I hope that you will find this information helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/27/2008


► Ozone And A Salt Chlorinator?

I live in Venezuela and we live in the mountains where is cool and we have a pool of about 41,000 gallons that is currently heated to about 90 degrees and this is forcing us to increase our chemical usage. The kids eyes are being affected. I would like to move towards using less chemicals and would like to get a ozone generator and/or combination of a salt chlorinator. Could you recommend something?

Luis R., Venezuela, 2/13/2007

The combination of an AutoPilot salt chlorine generator and an UltraPure ozone generator should be a great improvement. While a combination unit does exist, I would not recommend it. Your pool is quite large and the temperature will be on the high end. You should have full sized or even oversized units.  For a salt chlorine generator that will do the job properly, I suggest AutoPilot. The ozonator will provide backup oxidation and help minimize the amount of chlorine required. This will create more pleasant conditions and help the extend the life of the salt cell. I hope that this information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/13/2007


► How Long Do Ozonators Last?

I have an ozonator on my pool and use trichlor, as well. It has made a major improvement and has decreased the chlorine needed to maintain a satisfactory. I know eventually I will have to replace a part, but how will I know? Thanks.

Eric B., San Diego, VA 1/4/2010

The ozone generator will require a replacement part of bulb, depending upon the type of unit. You should get 2-3 years, before needing a replacement part. There are ozone test kits and ORP PockeTesters, that you can use, right at the return, to confirm the presence of ozone. If you ever notice a decrease in water quality, while maintaining proper chlorine readings, or if the amount of chlorine needed to maintain a satisfactory has become much higher, it suggests a replacement item is needed. I am glad to see that you appreciate the benefits of using ozone and chlorine together. Using less trichlor slows up the rise in the cyanuric acid concentration and makes the pH more stable, for longer periods of time. I hope that this information id helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/5/2010


► Hydrogen Peroxide As A Backup?

I read some of the information on your website regarding using ozone in a pool with a sanitizer like chlorine, bromine, ionizers, or mineral sanitizers, but I was wondering couldn't you also use hydrogen peroxide as a residual sanitizer? Any additional information you could provide on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Vince, 6/11/2010

Hydrogen peroxide is not used as a pool water sanitizer. It is used only as an oxidizer, primarily with biguanide maintained pools. Biguanide acts as a sanitizer and hydrogen peroxide acts as an oxidizer and not as a sanitizer. With an ozonator, you don't need an additional oxidizer, as ozone amply fills that need. What you do need is a permanent backup sanitizer and, in this role, chlorine, bromine, Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizers or ionizers can be used. This way, if ozone is not being produced, for a short period of time, there will still be some sanitizer present. I hope that this information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/11/2010


► Pool Water Sanitizing Duo?

I will be installing an ozonator and a mineral sanitizer in my heated inground pool. My wife is sensitive to chlorine and we want to completely avoid all such use. Do you think that this combination will work? Is there equipment that I can install that will automatically adjust the water? I am interested in reducing the maintenance and time requirements, as much as possible. Thank you. Terrific website!

Joel, 3/18/2006

The combination of an ozonator and Solar-Powered Dual-Ion Mineralizer should satisfy most of the sanitizing requirements of your pool. You should still keep a low level of chlorine and, because of the ozonator, much less chlorine will be required. There are pool automation controllers that can be used to operate just about everything that is electrical and then some: filtration, temperature, water level, water chemistry, pool cleaning and more. They can definitely save time. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the pool.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/18/2006


► Protecting The Vinyl Liner?

I have been investigating ozone systems and it I have read that ozone bubbles that get in the pool may cause vinyl liner color fading If the water flow at the return nozzles are directed straight out into the pool, do you think there will still be a problem with liner fading in your experience? I have been talking to a leading manufacturer about this, but I don't think they want to commit to whether or not I will have a problem.

Leon H., 10/22/2008

Not wanting to answer the question would hardly instill confidence in me. WHAT FADES VINYL LINERS IS DIRECT CONTACT OF CHLORINE PRODUCTS OR VERY HIGH LEVELS, OVER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME.  Ozone does not remain in the water for very long. In truth, most of the ozonation benefit happens in the return pipes of shortly thereafter. That is why it is suggested that chlorine or bromine be used in conjunction with ozone, in order to provide persistent sanitation and oxidation. It will help you get by with less chlorine or bromine, to maintain any given level and that will help preserve the liner's appearance. Adding The Circulators will help to better distribute the ozone, by boosting circulation and improving distribution. I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/22/2008

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