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										| Managing the Chlorine level, of pool 
										water!!! |  
						
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												| Commercial pools are expected to 
												be maintained to a higher 
												standard, than residential 
												pools.  High bather usage 
												places extra demands on 
												sanitizing, water chemistry, 
												filtration and safety.  A
												
												
												ColorQ, all digital Water Tester 
												can perform all of the common 
												tests, while eliminating the 
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												With 10 models, performing up to 
												11 different test factors, one 
												is right for every need. 
												
												An
												
												Electronic 
										PockeTester Kit is a convenient 
												way to monitor the salt level.  The
												
												
												WaterLink SpinTouch Labs 
												are the ultimate tester, doing 
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										| A 
										structural, concrete crack requires more 
										than just epoxy.  
										Torque-Lock 
										Staples use 5000 pounds of 
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										together and make a rock solid repair. 
										
										Ultra Poly One Coat is a 
										hybrid-epoxy coating, that is easier to 
										prep and apply and can be used to 
										refinish masonry or fiberglass pools, 
										spas and fountains.  Used in 
										commercial pools, water parks and water 
										features, all across the U.S.   
										Keep the area around a pool or spa 
										cleaner and they stay cleaner.  A 
										MetalTrap 
										Dual-Cartridge Filter attaches 
										to a garden hose and can be used to 
										remove sediments and dissolved copper, 
										iron and manganese, from new water 
										additions. |  
						
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										| How to 
								manage a commercial swimming pool? |   Commercial 
								Pools cannot always use the same chemicals that 
								are used in typical residential pools, because 
								of the regulations of local health departments. 
								What is permitted will vary from state to state. 
								High bather usage can require specialized 
								equipment and sanitizing practices. Make sure 
								that your pool is in compliance with the latest 
								anti-entrapment requirements. If problems arise, 
								refer to the 
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								 Helpful, 
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								answer format. 
								    
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											► Commercial Pool 
					Chlorination?
 I recently started taking care of a 
					commercial pool and am having problems getting the chlorine 
					levels up. It seems that no matter how many times I 
					clean/replace the filters, add trichlor sticks or shock with 
					lithium, I can't get the chlorine level any higher than 1 on 
					my 4-way test strips. Any suggestions. Thanks in Advance.
 
 Rick S., Bolton Valley, VT, 
											4/23/2019
 
 There are basically two possibilities here. The chlorine 
					requirements could be so high that the chlorine sticks 
					cannot keep up with the demand. Unless the chlorine feeder 
					is oversized and full, it may not be able to dissolve the 
					product at a fast enough
  rate and that explains the need for 
					the shock treatment. Trichlor is not the best way to 
					sanitize a commercial pool. The other possibility is that 
					the test strips are not reading properly. This can happen, 
					if the strips are removed with wet fingers or not stored 
					properly. I suggest that you use something else to verify 
					the results. In either case, you must use products and 
					testers that are allowed for use in commercial pools. State 
					laws vary, on these matters. A
											
											WaterLink SpinTouch Lab is not 
											only the fastest way to do a 
											comprehensive water analysis, it is 
											easy to use.  It keeps track of 
											the previous tests results and all 
											testing can be monitored, from a 
											remote location, using cloud-based 
											software and a computer.  Even 
											multiple locations can be centrally 
											monitored, so long as each is using 
											a WaterLink SpinTouch Lab. When the 
											pool operators know someone can be 
											watching, they are more likely to 
											stay on top of things.  Has anyone ever 
					thought about upgrading the sanitizing? A 
											salt chlorine 
					generator would be an excellent choice, as it is a benefit 
					to both the operator and the pool users. Another thing to 
					consider is the use of ultraviolet sanitizing. It won't 
					replace the chlorine, but will greatly reduce the amount of 
					chlorine required, dramatically reduce the chloramine odor 
					and simplify the water chemistry. I hope that this 
					information will prove helpful. 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/23/2019
 
 
 ► Controlling 
					The Water Chemistry?
 
 We run a small community pool and 
					would like to research a better means of adding chemicals. 
					The pool uses liquid chlorine and acid and these are added 
					with feeding pumps, tied into the operation of the filter 
					and pump. The problem is that the bather use is anything but 
					consistent and sometimes there is too much chlorine and 
					other times there is not enough. Are there controllers that 
					can be added? How expensive are they? Thanks for the help.
 
 B. M., Knoxville, TN, 6/23/2020
 
 Yes, controllers can be added that will help regulate the 
					addition of the chlorine and acid. It should give you more 
					uniform conditio
  ns. So far as the cost of these controllers 
					is concerned, I will have to pass. There are several 
					manufacturers of such equipment. I suggest that you consult 
					with a pool company that deals with non-residential pools. 
					There are other chemical saving and highly controllable 
					sanitizing methods, that are suitable for use in 
					commercial-type pools. Ozonation, for example, would deal 
					with the introduction of bather wastes and would decrease 
					the amount of chlorine required to maintain a satisfactory 
					level. Salt chlorine generators and 
											UV Sterilizers are other 
					possibilities. Browse through the pages on these topics for 
					more information. Sorry, that I couldn't provide all of the 
					details. 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/24/2020
 
 
 ► Reducing 
					The Chlorine Odor?
 
 I operate a commercial indoor pool 
					that gets a lot of use. The odor is a real problem with some 
					of the users. I know that chloramines are the cause, but I 
					can't keep on adding shock, as the pool is very high volume. 
					I have heard the ultraviolet can make a difference. Is there 
					any truth to that? Thanks for the time spent.
 
 Frank B., 5/18/2013
 
 In indoor high-use commercial pools, odor can be an 
					unpleasant feature. You will find the environment of the 
					pool to be vastly improved, within 1-3 days, after 
					installing an 
					Ultraviolet Sanitizer System. The UV rays not 
					only sanitize the water, but dramatically reduce or 
					eliminate the chloramines. When chlorine combines with 
					nitrogen-ammonia compounds, chloramines are formed and 
					produce the chlorine smell that is so obnoxious, irritating 
					and unhealthy. Less chlorine will be required to maintain 
					the customary levels and the overall water chemistry will be 
					less subject to fluctuation and buildup problems. I hope 
					that I have explained some of the benefits.
 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/18/2013
 
 
 ► Chloramines 
					And Ionization?
 
 A public pool, that I swim at has had 
					chronic chloramine build up that has resulted in air quality 
					issues. The pool is approximately 125,000 gallons with a 
					high bather load and uses liquid chlorine and muriatic acid. 
					 I know there are a lot of factors that go into reducing 
					chloramines, but my question is specific to a copper/silver 
					ionizer.  This equipment was installed at this pool for the 
					sole purpose of reducing chloramines, but there has been no 
					real improvement. According to the owner, it is working, but 
					you wouldn’t know it. Chloramines are consistently above 1 
					ppm and the air is heavy with the odor. They also state that 
					they shock the pool with liquid chlorine to reach 
					breakpoint. They do not use MPS for shock treatment. My 
					question is whether or not the ionization system, they have 
					in place, is actually capable of breaking down chloramines? 
					My understanding of copper/silver is that they are 
					sanitizers via ionization, but not strong oxidizers. Can you 
					tell me if there are merits to this system with respect to 
					chloramine reduction? Thanks for any insight. You provide a 
					great service.
 
 Richard W.,1/26/2008
 
 You seem to have an excellent understanding of the issues. 
					Ionization alone will not eliminate or reduce the chloramine 
					concentra
  tion. It should reduce the amount of chlorine 
					required to maintain a proper free chlorine level, but will 
					have no effect on chloramines. To destroy or reduce the 
					chloramine content, oxidation is required. It can be in the 
					form of chlorine or potassium monopersulfate.
											Ozone Generators will reduce chloramines and 
					odors very effectively, but will still need some chlorine to 
					act as a backup sanitizer. A salt chlorine generator would 
					have been a better choice, as it manufactures chlorine, 
					right in the pool. The water would be stripped of 
					chloramines, as water passes through the salt cell. State 
					law might enter into which equipment is best suited for a 
					public or commercial pool and this should be considered. I 
					think a better choice could have been made. I hope that this 
					information will prove helpful. 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/26/2008
 
											
											
											► Clouded Up?
 I am on the board of a homeowners pool 
					and a recent grad of a CPO course however, I need some help 
					on a problem. Our pool is 80,000 gallons. The pH reading is 
					7.2, FAC is 2 ppm, TA is 220. We use Calcium Hypochlorite as 
					our sanitizer. Our pool opened today and the water was 
					crystal clear. The ambient temperature was 91 °F. Not sure 
					of water temperature. Four hours into our first day the 
					water started to become cloudy. Two hours later very cloudy. 
					We backwashed the filters. Additionally, according to my CPO 
					book we should try the acid column to convert the C03 to 
					C02. I have read several of your answers regarding TA. I am 
					more concerned with the cloudiness. Any help?
 
 Doug, 5/18/2010
 
 It would have been nice to know what the calcium hardness 
					reading was? The use of calcium hypochlorite will raise the 
					calcium level, the pH and the TA. Your TA is already too 
					high and it is likely that the calcium reading is in the 
					hundreds of PPM. That can account for the cloudy pool water 
					problem. Depending on the makeup of the dissolved mineral, 
					lowering the TA might prove difficult, but it should be 
					tried. I suggest that you consider using something other 
					than calcium hypochlorite. Liquid chlorine would seem 
					logical. Even better would be a 
											salt chlorine generator. 
					Otherwise, the increasing calcium hardness levels will only 
					cause more and more pool water clarity problems. Adding 
					mineral treatments will help to an extent, but is not a long 
					term solution. I hope that I have been of assistance. Good 
					luck.
 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/19/2010
 
 
 ► ORP 
					Confusion?
 
 Having a bit of a bizarre issue with 
					the pool which I run! The Alkalinity is always a bit low 
					(65-75ppm) so have been adding sodium bicarbonate to the 
					pool to bring it up a bit, I use sodium hypochlorite as the 
					disinfectant. The levels of disinfectant are measured in 
					redox only (this is the only one I've ever come across that 
					does not have the PPM reading on as well) which only 
					measures the disinfectant activity and not quantity. Every 
					time, I add sodium bicarbonate the chlorine goes up. does 
					adding bicarbonate interfere with the redox reading, thus 
					causing it to dose more chlorine? Or is it just a freaky 
					coincidence? I really hope you can help as most people run 
					at the mention of redox controllers. Not sure buying a new 
					controller is an option? Yours in anticipation.
 
 Julie, United Kingdom, 8/15/2005
 
 It is not a matter of interference. The controller is 
					measuring the Oxidation-Reduction Potential (ORP). As 
					expected, adding c
  hlorine causes the reading to rise. The 
					ORP is based on the hypochlorous acid concentration, which 
					rises as the PPM of free chlorine increases. This same 
					reading falls as the pH rises and rises as the pH drops, due 
					to the equilibrium between the hypochlorous acid and 
					hypochlorous ion concentrations. In your case, adding sodium 
					bicarbonate causes the pH to nudge upward, lowering the ORP 
					and causing the controller to add more chlorine to raise the 
					ORP. In order to maintain proper pH and chlorine conditions, 
					the pH and ORP must both be under control. So long as the pH 
					is within the desired 7.2-7.6 range, the controller will 
					keep the chlorine at the proper level. I hope that this 
					information proves helpful. 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/15/2005
 
 
 ► Stabilizer 
					and Indoor Salt Chlorinator?
 
 We have two pools/spas with chlorine 
					generators. I read where a stabilizer is recommended, but 
					these are indoor (hotel) pools, so why would I need the 
					cyanuric acid? Thanks for your time!
 
 Steve, Iron River, MI, 3/37/2007
 
 I don't know where you read that. I see no reason that 
					Cyanuric Acid should be required. UV is an outdoor problem. 
					Dichlor is used, indoors, because it is quick dissolving and 
					essentially pH neutral. My guess is that the instructions 
					were not written with an indoor pool in mind. I hope that 
					this information is helpful.
 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/27/2007
 
 
 ► Calculating 
					Bather Loads?
 
 I have a large group coming into our 
					municipal pool. How can I be sure that the pool will 
					accommodate that number of people?
 
 M. C., 9/8/2005
 
 According to CPO information, the following calculations are 
					used.
 
 Commercial Pools: Surface Area in Square Feet divided by 24 
					= maximum bathers.
 Commercial Spas: Surface Area in Square Feet divided by 10 = 
					maximum bathers.
 Please verify that this information is current or applicable 
					to for your area.
 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/9/2005
 
 
 ► Combined 
					Chlorine Issues?
 
 This is not your standard question 
					regarding chloramine reduction. As a Health Inspector I deal 
					with this issue a lot but here I want to ask about speed. 
					Specifically the speed at which breakpoint can be achieved. 
					A health club that closes at 10:00 pm and opens at 5:00 AM 
					tries to beat the clock in super chlorination. With 
					chloramines that reach 1-2 ppm, how fast can breakpoint be 
					achieved with conventional shocking with liquid chlorine? 
					125,000 gallon lap pool. The CDC discusses contact time in 
					cases of liquid stool contamination. Double the dose of 
					chlorine results in half the time needed for contact. Can 
					this same principle be used in chloramine elimination? 1.0 
					ppm CC conventionally requires 10 ppm chlorine to reach 
					breakpoint (actually 7.5 or so but who's counting). What 
					about 1.0 ppm CC hit with 20 ppm chlorine? Potassium 
					peroxymonosulfate could be an option, but they do not have a 
					test kit to deal with the interference on testing chlorine. 
					Seemingly pointless, if you don't know you have reached 
					breakpoint. Alan, please hurry! Thanks!
 
 Tim R., 2/16/2008
 
 All chemical reactions, and destroying combined chlorine is 
					a chemical reaction, are partially governed by 
					concentration. This is really a physical chemistry problem, 
					but simply stated, time, temperature and circulation have to 
					be considered, as well. Raising the concentration
  , will cut 
					the reaction time, but even that is effected by variables. A 
					pool is full is organics, that given time, will form more 
					combined chlorine. If there is 1 PPM of combined chlorine at 
					pool closing time, adding 10 PPM of free chlorine might not 
					be enough, because of the organics present reacting with the 
					free chlorine or the formation of more combined chlorine, 
					from the nitrogenous wastes. Adding 10 PPM of free chlorine 
					could still leave you with more than 1 PPM of combined 
					chlorine. No two pools or situations are the same, so a set 
					figure might not always work. If 10-1 does not produce a 
					combined chlorine of less than 1 PPM, while leaving a free 
					chlorine level, within your state's guidelines, I can see 
					the utility of adding 12-1 or 15-1 or more.  Potassium 
					monopersulfate would be an alternative worth looking into. 
					It might be used, in conjunction, with the regular dosing of 
					liquid chlorine. LaMotte Company offers 
					MPS test strips. I 
					am not sure what your state allows, in terms of alternative 
					sanitizing, but salt chlorine generators, 
					ozone generators 
					or UV Sterilizers can go a long way towards improving 
					swimming conditions and compliance with the sanitation 
					requirements. I hope that I have been of some help. 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/16/2008
 
 
 ► Appearance 
					Of Stains?
 
 I operate a 240,000 gallon painted 
					plaster outdoor pool; after using bromine for about 20 years 
					we switched to calcium hypochlorite in 2004. We never had 
					any "staining: problem using bromine, just a minor green 
					algae problem which we handled with the appropriate 
					algaecide.  The summer of 2004  we experienced tan 
					/light brown/yellowish "staining" - on the walls and floor 
					of the pool, starting in the diving well, slowly moving out 
					into the shallower parts of the pool, gradually increasing 
					in quantity as the summer went on. The pool company I dealt 
					with said it was a metal stain and had me use metal 
					treatment products to take care of. Pool was shut down for 
					several days, chemicals added - all pertinent directions 
					followed, pool thoroughly brushed, backwashed sand filters 
					thoroughly and put pool back into operation, using a metal 
					treatment product on a maintenance basis. However, the 
					stains began to return. They can be brushed off if done 
					early in their appearance - but difficult considering the 
					size of the pool.  When you brush it off water in area turns 
					milky. When I opened pool in 2005 since metal staining did 
					not seem to be the culprit we switched gears to algae 
					"staining." I treated pool with shock and algaecide, 
					initially and on a maintenance basis. But the stains 
					appeared same as in 2004. Only thorough brushing kept them 
					somewhat under control for the summer. My question is this? 
					How do I determine for sure what is causing the "stain" to 
					form, and then what to do to prevent or control it. The only 
					thing we changed was switching from bromine to cal-hypo. 
					Each spring the pool is emptied, then cleaned with TSP and 
					an acid wash before refilling and putting into operation. We 
					stay on top of everything else - free and combined chlorine, 
					pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, filter cleaning, etc. We 
					checked the source water for the pool and nothing changed 
					there.  The pool company I work with is at a loss. Any 
					ideas? Would appreciate it.
 
 Dick W., 3/8/2016
 
 I am not sure that is the answer, but it does fit the facts. 
					Bromine is acidic and will tend to keep the pH and TA 
					towards the lo
  wer end, unless adjustments are made. It does 
					not contribute to the calcium hardness. Minerals and metals 
					tend to be more soluble at lower pH ranges. Cal hypo has a 
					high pH and will raise the pH and TA, as product s being 
					added. This tends to decrease the solubility of minerals and 
					metals, as the pH and TA rise. Adding more and more calcium 
					hardness over time only makes for more problems. I suggest 
					that you monitor the calcium hardness and add regular doses 
					of scale treatment. When the calcium level exceeds 400 PPM, 
					scaling becomes more likely, as does metal staining. Calcium 
					hypo may not be the best product to use, in this pool. I 
					realize that there are cost considerations, but liquid 
					chlorine would avoid the increasing hardness levels. Have 
					you ever considered a salt chlorine generator? It will give 
					you more control and less handling and storage problems. And 
					the water will smell and feel better. Good luck and I hope 
					that I have been helpful. 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/8/2016
 
 
 ► Cracked 
					Pool Wall?
 
 We 
					operate a 100,000 gallon commercial pool and recently had a 
					crack develop in a wall. It was repaired and painted over. 
					It now seems to have reopened and is probably responsible 
					for a significant water loss. Do you have any suggestions 
					for making a better repair? Thanks for any help you can 
					offer.
 
 Martin M., Georgia, 4/21/2009
  
 Most likely this is a stress crack and needs to be 
					stabilized. Products, such as epoxy, can be used, but don't 
					always work while the crack is under pressure to expand.  
					The Torque-Lock system is 
					designed to make structural concrete crack repair, that are 
					rock solid.  If you want to make the proper repair, 
					this is what you want to use.  Good luck and I hope that this solves the problem.
 
 Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/21/2009
 
									
						
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													Shipping is FREE* . . . within 
													the Continental U.S.A $9.99 
													handling charge will apply 
													to Continental U.S. Orders, 
													under $75.00.  Orders 
													outside of the Continental 
													U.S. may require some 
													additional charge, based on 
													quantity and destination.
 Most products can be 
													shipped World-Wide.  International 
													and orders outside of 
													Continental U.S. - see 
													comments on the ordering 
													pages.
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