Pool Opening Suggestions and Product Ideas

► Getting Ready To Switch To A Salt Chlorine Generator?

I am wanting to convert my above ground pool from a mineral system to a salt water system. Will I need to use the mineral reservoir? Also is it necessary to use the Algaecide at start up?  Thanks.

Andrea, 3/21/2018

If you continue to use the minerals, it will provide backup sanitation, which will allow you to get good results, even while maintaining a lower free chlorine level.  Add enough chlorine and your pool should clean up, even though you don't add algaecide.  The combination of the minerals and a good free chlorine level should be all you require.  We offer several, affordably-priced, salt chlorine generators and one model requires no-installation.  They include lots of advanced features and can treat pools from 17,000 to 40,000 gallons.  A salt chlorine generator is the better way to do chlorine. I hope that I have provided the solution.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/21/2018
 

► Opening With A Salt Chlorinator?

This is our first time opening using the salt system and I think we have trouble. I have above ground 24ft. x 48in. pool. at the end of last summer, we installed saltwater system and (upon changing systems our water got really green then just as we seemed to get water stabilized and clear, it was time to winterize and close . Upon opening the pool this weekend, the water is very, very dark. we have just completed adding the water to the needed level, and seems we need to shock 'big time' to clear to water. My question. Do we start up with opening procedure, as before the saltwater system, (shock, etc) while adding the extra salt (because of adding additional water) or do we shock, etc. get the water stable and clear, then add salt?? We live in Nashville, TN. Our winters are becoming so mild, I think next winter I will keep the pool open and running to help alleviate this situation. Please help
 
Sherry, Nashville, TN 3/27/2007

Do everything, the same as before, and test the salt level and adjust to the proper range. You will have to add shock, as needed, to help destroy all of the contamination. The faster, the chlorine level is raised, the better. Adjust the other water chemistry parameters, as required. Once done, the Salt Chlorine Generator should be better able to maintain the level. Make sure that the salt cell is clean and that all connections are tight. I hope this information helps.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/27/2007
 

► Getting Started?

MY HUSBAND AND I JUST PURCHASED AND ABOVE GROUND 30' ROUND POOL. WE JUST FILLED IT WITH WATER AND HAVE YET TO ADD ANY CHEMICALS TO IT. CAN YOU SUGGEST HOW TO GET THE POOL STARTED?

Lisa W., Coldwater, MS, 5/20/2018

While your question seems simple enough and it is, it is also worthy of being on the "top 10" list. Depending upon the source of the water being used to fill the pool, you can save yourself a lot of anguish, time and money by doing a few things before adding chemicals. Have the water, that will beused to fill the pool, tested for pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, iron and other heavy metals might be present. If there are heavy metals present, it is best to add one dose of a quality, phosphate-free metal treatment, such as Liquid Metal Trap, for each 0.5 PPM, as the pool is being filled. If the tests for heavy metals are negative, you might want to add a dose anyway. Allow about 6 hours of filter operation before adding other chemicals. Now you're ready to adjust the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness. Try and avoid having chemicals, especially chlorine products, remain in prolonged direct contact with the liner: run the filter and stir things up with the pool brush. If the pool is to be maintained on chlorine, you should add stabilizer. Try and maintain a Free Chlorine level of 1-3 PPM, at all times, whether the pool is being used or not. The labels are only a guide! How much chlorine your pool will require will depend upon location, Sun exposure, bather usage and frequency, water temperature, etc. It may sound difficult, but is easier to do it right, than to fix it after some neglect. Having a reliable water tester can help you avoid problems. The all-digital ColorQ Water Analyzer will eliminate all color matching and guesswork. I hope that these suggestions will prove helpful. I hope that these suggestions will prove helpful. Enjoy the pool.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/20/2018


► Messy Opening and Safety Issues?

My husband and I purchased a resale last December. Although the pool was operating when we first viewed the house, it was closed and covered by the time we took title. We know nothing about pools. Call us city folks. Over the course of the winter, the solid plastic cover over the pool, collapsed at one end. Evidently, this was a result of leaves and water collecting on top. I can only imagine what a mess is now inside the pool. The pool is a vinyl inground type, about 20 X 40. It is spring now and we are going to have to face the challenge. Where do we start? The pool is fenced in, but not separated from the house. I'm concerned about the kids and dog. Helpful hints will be appreciated. Thank you.

Sharon H., Milton, MA, 5/31/2013

It does sound like you're in for a lot of work. If it were up to me, I would call in a pool service company to open the pool, get everything working and start you on the road to crystal clear water. That way, you can observe, ask questions and, perhaps, learn about operating the equipment. A local pool professional can help you with matters of water testing and chemicals. But, if you want to do it yourself, here is where to start. If the cover still has water and debris on top, get a cover pump (small submersible pump that is attached to a garden hose and placed on top to remove water) and pump off as much water as possible. Try and remove the debris with a pool leaf rake: without causing a collapse. Pull the cover off, trying to keep as much debris, as possible, out of the pool. Clean the cover, allow to dry and store indoors until winter. Now you are looking at a disaster of a pool, with the water somewhat below the skimmers. If your water is of good quality and not from a well, you can start adding water. If your water is from a well, you might want to have it tested: minerals can cause staining and are best treated before chlorine is added. The filter has to be hooked up: depending upon the type it may have been removed for the winter and stored indoors. A local dealer or friend might be able to help with the hookup. Once the filter is running, you are ready to start adding chemicals.  A reliable pool water tester is a must.  I suggest the #2056 Color PRO 7, which is simple to use and eliminates the bothersome color-matching.  I would start with 2 pounds, per 5,000 gallons of pool water, of a shock treatment. This will begin the decomposition of the leaves and debris. Find out how to use your pool vacuum and use it to start removal of the debris on the bottom. Have the water tested for pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and chlorine stabilizer and add chemicals as required. Test for Free Chlorine, every few hours, and add more shock, if the Free Chlorine level drops below 3 PPM. The pool should start to look better and better, but could take a few days to really clear up. I know that I have oversimplified things, but you will get by with some common sense and some pool dealer advice. During the summer, all this work will be a fond memory. You might want to browse through the archives on the topics of pool maintenance, cloudy water, etc. There are safety products available including Pool Alarm Systems, for all types of pools. These products can add a high degree of security. You can help protect your dog and even some uninvited critters from drowning, because of being unable to exit the pool. An escape ramp helps provide an easy escape route, for pets and animals. You might check to make sure that the main drain is an anti-entrapment design, as it can prevent serious accidents. Local laws can vary, so make sure that all safety devices are in compliance, with all current federal and local regulations.  Being aware is, of course, always important! I hope that I have been of assistance. Good luck with the pool and enjoy the summer.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster/ 5/31/2013


► Empty Pool And Broken Pipe?

Great website! Very informative. A question for you.  Is it possible that liner shrinkage (from an in ground pool sitting empty for almost two months) could introduce enough force into the plumbing to fracture an inlet pipe/fitting? Thanks!

Thomas K., 4/6/2011

If the pool is empty, water can collect and could be more apt to freeze, as compared to a filled pool. However, this might not have anything to do with freeze-thaw problems. If the ground water level rose to a level, higher than the pool floor, the pool could float up and cause pipes to break. Depending on how the pipes were laid out, it might not take much to cause damage. Leaving a pool empty, for long periods of time, does involve risk. So, I guess the answer is yes. Picture a rowboat almost filled with water and barely floating. Remove water and the boat floats higher. A pool can be like a floating boat, especially if heavy rains have elevated the water table. Sorry I can't provide something more helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/6/2011


► Not Quite Ready To Open?

I am not going to open the pool as early as I usually do. A friend suggested that I pull back the cover and add a few gallons of liquid shock, in order to help keep the water a few weeks longer. What do you think of that idea? The pool is a vinyl inground. Thank you.

Rich G., Paramus, NJ, 6/2/2012

I assume that the pool is covered and that the filter is in storage. Therefore, there is no circulation. An vinyl lined pool should not have chlorine added without the benefit of circulating water. This could result in some bleaching of the liner. Adding chemicals, especially chlorine, without the filter operating, is not a good practice. Are you willing to risk damage to the liner? If the pool was masonry, there would be no problem adding the chlorine. It's your decision. The idea has merit, as long as care is taken to avoid damaging the liner. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/3/2012
 

► Jumping The Gun To Get The Pool Opened?

Out of curiosity (I am in Connecticut and the pool is still covered) I did a few tests on my pool water (gunite pool with a winter cover that lets water through) and the pH seemed like it had gone up a lot (the pH number went up) over the winter – is this normal? I did the acid demand test and I think it took like four drops of the reagent that is used to measure acid demand. For one thing what is the preferred way to bring the number down and secondly should I wait until the pool is opened in probably six weeks or so? I would assume I need to wait as the pump needs to be on, etc. I have heard of people around here putting some chemicals under the cover to get a head start on the de-winterizing. Also, why would the pH go up over the winter? From rain and snow? Thanks for your help and a great site.

Paul B., Connecticut, 4/4/2015

That's not how it usually works. Acid rain and carbon dioxide should cause the pH to drop - even in CT. Being that the pool is gunite, it is possible that the walls are influencing the pH. In any event, the sample was not representative of the pool. It won't be until the pump is up and running. I would wait the 6 weeks and not worry about it, until the cover is off and the filter is running. That's when a water analysis helps tell you what to do. Putting in chemicals, under the cover, can lead to problems and is not worth the risk! I hope that this information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/4/2015


► Unwanted Dearly Departed?

We just bought a new house which contained an inground round pool. We have absolutely no experience with pools. It had a cover but somehow both a chipmunk and lizard managed to make their final resting place at the bottom of our pool over the winter. We removed them but now are wondering if we should just dump the water and start over. Please help. Thank you.

SCOTT H., 4/12/2007

In the routine course of getting the pool back into proper condition, after a winter of dormancy, you will have to add lots of chlorine: enough to boost and maintain the free chlorine level at 1-3 PPM. Doing this will destroy all traces of the dearly departed. There is no need to drain the pool. This is not all that uncommon! If you are interested in prevent a recurrence, adding a pet escape ramp will give these critters an escape from the water entrapment. If is simple to install and does not interfere with the pool use, if you flip it onto to deck. If the problem is just frogs and small critters, it just might be what you need.  Good luck and enjoy the pool.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/12/2007


► Black Swampy Water?

Alan, thanks for providing the website. I live in the Detroit area and have a 24' round aboveground pool. Upon opening this year (after years of successful openings), the water looks like black swamp water! Cant see the bottom! There is a silty, black substance on the liner surface under the water and I'm not sure what to do here. Should I drain it and start over, or do I fill'er up and let chemistry and filtration do the work? I have had excellent results every year. I found a few holes in my winter cover after removing all the leaves & junk and suspect that the dirty water migrated into the pool. What do you think? Sincerely.

Stephen B., Detroit, Michigan, 5/3/2008

Do not drain the pool! It could result in liner shrinkage. The holes in the cover allowed contamination into the pool and that depleted any chlorine thatmight have been present. The conditions, as you have described them, are consistent with algae growth and accumulated debris. Fill the pool up and get the filter operating. Add 2 pounds of shock for each 5,000 gallons of pool water. Test the water for Free Chlorine and keep adding additional shock at the rate of 1 pound per 5,000 gallons of water, until a Free Chlorine level of 1-3 PPM is established and remains after an overnight period. Depending upon the actual condition of the water, it may take considerably more shock than you might surmise. The longer you take to establish a Free Chlorine reading, the more chlorine will be required.  Adding an algaecide will help in eliminating the algae. Adjust the pool water chemistry on a timely basis. Make sure that the pH is not above 7.6, inasmuch as high pH values will reduce the effectiveness of the shock treatment. To help clear up the water, add a dose of a quality blue clarifier. Vacuum and scoop out as much debris as possible. Things may seen bad, but it will clear as soon as enough chlorine has been added. Once clear, resume normal sanitizing and filtration. Having the right water tester can help solve and avoid problems. The all-digital ColorQ Labs eliminate all the guesswork and the color-matching. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/4/2008


► Water On Top Of Winter Cover?

This is my first year having my pool, we closed the pool fine and put a pillow in the center. During the winter water, leaves, and ice stacked up on top of the pool cover. I tried getting as much as I could off but after it froze over I wasn't very successful. Now its spring and the ice melted leaving a lot of water on top which is making the pool cover drop down and on one side the cover was pulled close to inside the pool. I'm trying to find a way to get all the water out since its so deep. Do you have any recommendations?

Pool Rookie, 4/6/2005

There are submersible cover pumps that can be used to remove accumulated water. Or you could take a length of hose and create a siphon. It make take a day or so, but it will remove the water. The more you get off, the less likely it will be that you get this debris in the pool. Good luck and enjoy the season.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/6/2005


► What About The Pump?

Alan, I just bought a home with an above ground pool. The previous owners told me that they winterized the pump with some chemical (unknown). The pump was not covered up or brought inside. The water looks fine and I have read all of your information on opening pools for the summer. My question is, what do I need to do to the pump before turning it on? I assume turning it on would push all of this winterizing chemical into the pool. Should I drain it and how? and Is this a good technique for next year when I do it?

Lori H., 5/18/2010

Most lucky the winterizing agent was a pool pipeline anti-freeze product. No matter what, if you discharge the water into the pool, it will have little or no effect on the overall pool water.  I prefer to remove the pump to an indoor location, for the winter. If the filter is not a sand filter, you might be able to do the same with that as well. Otherwise, draining and sealing off against water intrusion is next best method. Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/19/2010


► The Pool Water Drained Away?

After looking under the cover of our pool we found that most of the water has drained out. How do you go about locating where the hole is in the liner, if that is the case? Thanks.

Linda A., 3/1/2012

This may not be the most important step to take, but try and prevent the cover and all of the debris on top from falling into the pool. All that would do is add to the problem. Unfortunately, you did not provide and specifics, as to pool type. The pool leak could be in a main drain, return fitting or the built-in steps. That is if there are any of these features. It is possible that the leak is at the current water level. Mark the current depth, for use as a reference point. If the leak was very small, if may be difficult to see a water loss on a daily basis, because some water will be lost due to evaporation. Fix A Leak is a product that is used to seal leaks, such as yours. It is added to the pool and makes a seal, as it leaks out, after being carried to the leak. If the water continues to drain out slowly, it will stop at the level of the leak. There are concentrated dye solutions, that can be added to a still pool, that can help trace the flow to the source of the leak. There are companies that specialize in locating pool leaks. It is not a good idea to leave a vinyl liner pool without water for extended periods, as such practice can lead to liner shrinking. If the pool is an inground, structural damage is possible, if substantial water has drained out. I hope that this information will point you in the right direction. Good luck.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/1/2012


► Where To Start?

Hi Alan. Last March (2007), we purchased an inground fiberglass pool, with a cartridge filter. The installation included the opening of the pool and the first closing. The pool company considered the installation and start up of the pool as our "opening", however, we were at work the majority of the time and unfortunately were not there to see what was involved or to take notes or ask questions. We were there to witness the closing and took notes on the steps taken. Now it is coming up on the time to open the pool again, however, we aren't exactly sure of what we need to do and the pool company wants to charge us a few hundred dollars to have them do it. Besides removing the cover and the fittings and plugs from the inlets, what else would we need to do besides shocking it, and cleaning it and adding more water to bring the level back up? Anti-freeze was put into the water lines, does that have to be flushed out or anything? Do you know of any book we can read that gives more information? Thanks for your help.

Karen T., 3/10/2008

A pool opening is essentially a reversal of the pool closing. The one thing that you should be very careful with is the removal of the cover. You don't want to get all that debris into the pool. Use a cover pump to remove all of the water from the top of the cover (if it is a solid cover) and use a skimmer net to scoop off any debris. Once the cover is off, start adding water, remove all the plugs and winter fittings and reconnect the filter and pump. Make sure the filter cartridge is clean: using The Blaster Filter Cartridge Cleaner will make it easy. Assuming that a pool grade antifreeze was used, it can be flushed into the pool. Once filtration has been restarted, chemicals can be added. You will have to add enough chlorine shock to destroy any accumulations of algae and debris and establish an appropriate chlorine level. The other aspects of pool water chemistry should be tested and adjusted, as necessary. Make sure that the cover is cleaned and allowed to dry off, before storing away. I hope that this information will point you in the right direction. Have fun and good luck.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/10/2008


► Antifreeze In The Pool?

Is it imperative to remove the antifreeze from the lines rather than just letting it mix with the rest of the water and then treating it as needed for summer start up? No one seems to know. I have a fiberglass inground pool. If not, what is the easiest way to clear the lines and make ready for the season? Thanks.

John, 5/13/2006

If you are using a swimming pool antifreeze, it is expected that the product will get into the pool. This type of product should present no hazard, once in the pool. Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/13/2006


► Unopened For 5 Years?

Dear Alan, we opened the pool after 5 years of not opening it. We can not get the water to clear. At the pool company everything reads normal. When it is vacuumed brown water comes out of the jets. Does that mean there is something wrong with the pipes or the filter? We even put in a chemical that is supposed to take the chemicals to the bottom but that still hasn't help to clear the water. Help. Thank you.

Bonny B., Phippsburg, Maine, 6/17/2008

Picture all the stuff that has been growing in the pipes and unreachable spots for the past 5 years. I think that you are going to have to maintain a high chlorine level, 5-10 PPM, and keep the water recirculating. If the filter has not been disassembled and cleaned, it should be at the top of the list. Once the chlorine has been allowed to decompose all the accumulations of 5 years of neglect, I'm sure that progress will be made. Good luck.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/17/2008