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Avoiding Stains and Discoloration
every time water is added!!! |
If
there is a possibility that new water
additions will contain sediments,
dissolved metals or contaminants, you
should consider using something to
pre-filter the new water. Test your
source water for iron, copper and
manganese, to determine, if dissolved
metals present a potential problem. It
is better to avoid a problem, than to
try and treat it, after the water has
been added to the pool. The products
below can remove sediments, metals such
as iron, copper and manganese and
contaminates such as sulfur. The
MetalTrap
Filter attaches to the garden
hose and removes dissolved iron, copper
and manganese. The
MetalTrap
1-Micron Filter removes
ultra-fine contaminants, including
sulfur. The
MetalTrap
Dual-Cartridge Filter attaches
to a garden hose and removes dissolved
heavy metals and sediments. One
cartridge is washable and reusable and
the other is replaceable. |
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Click on
any of the above links, to see the
complete selection of treatment
products.
► ► ►
Scroll down to
read through some Question and Answer
information.
◄ ◄ ◄
|
Removing Stains and Discoloring Metals,
from the water!!! |
Look for the presence of
rusty, tan, blue, green, purple, gray, brown
or black stains. These are typically
due to the presence of heavy metals,
such as iron, copper or manganese. Even
if there is no obvious staining, the
presence of heavy metals will cause
water discoloration and possible
staining, after chlorine or bromine are
added or the pH is raised. Depending
upon the severity of the problem, the
products below can help you eliminate or
avoid problems. The
Stain Reversal
Kit contains everything needed
to remove the metal stains, eliminate
the heavy metals and help prevent a
recurrence, of the problem. The
Stain Remover
removes iron copper and manganese
stains.
Pool
Refresh-Total Trap helps
eliminate heavy metals and phosphates,
by filtering or vacuuming them out of
the water. |
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Click on
any of the above links, to see the
complete selection of models.
► ► ►
Scroll down to
read through some Question and Answer
information.
◄ ◄ ◄
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Optimizing the water chemistry and
improving water clarity!!! |
Test the water chemistry and
adjust the pH, total alkalinity, calcium
hardness and cyanuric acid, as might be
necessary. A
ColorQ, All-Digital Tester can
perform all of the common spa water
tests and eliminates the color-matching
and guesswork. Some tester models,
such as the #2067 ColorQ PRO 9-Plus,
perform all of the common water tests,
plus copper and iron. Reliable
water testing will help get the spa
ready-to-go. Better Circulation helps
make everything work more effectively.
An easy-to-install,
Magnetic
Water Conditioner
can help mitigate some the the scaling
issues, associated with high calcium
hardness. An
Automatic Filter
Cartridge Cleaner will
thoroughly remove the debris between the
pleats, assuring that all
metal-containing sediments are washed
away. |
|
If you have a pool or spa water
testing need, we should have the
product.
►
Scroll down to read through some
Question & Answer information.
◄
|
How to treat
iron, copper, manganese discoloration or
staining? |
Dissolved heavy metals present, in spa or hot tub water, can lead
to staining of the underwater surfaces,
discoloration of the water or the appearance of
blue to green, purple, gray or dark to black colored spots. Control of trace
minerals, such as heavy metals and sulfur, and maintaining a proper overall spa or
hit tub water chemistry is important, to help
assure optimum water quality. Minerals such as
iron, manganese and copper are the principal
offenders. Iron and manganese can occur
naturally in water, especially well water. It is
the oxidation of dissolved heavy metals that can
cause the spa staining and water discoloration
problems, upon the addition of oxidizing spa
chemicals. Copper is rarely found in municipal
water supplies and usually finds its way into
spas and hot tubs as the result of corrosion of
the copper heater core or copper plumbing.
Treatment of the resultant problem is usually
possible with the proper techniques and
chemicals. Heavy metal staining and
discoloration can be removed, treated and
prevented, with the use of
METALTRAP Products,
such as Liquid METALTRAP,
METALTRAP Filters,
METALTRAP 1-Micron Pre-Filter and
POOL REFRESH.
When the new source water contains sediments, a
METALTRAP Dual-Cartridge Filter can removes both
the precipitated metals, as well as the
dissolved metallic ions, greatly reducing the
risk of staining and discoloration. When
well water is the source, there is a strong
likelihood that problems will arise, unless a
proper course of action is followed. If
problems arise, refer to the
Spa Problems
Page, as a source of problem-solving
information, broken down into various
categories. Scroll down the page and click on the linked
keywords,
catch phrases
or images, in the archived answers below, to access additional information, on that topic or product.
Do you know what's in
your water? If you're having problems, with stains
and discoloration, due to the presence of metals, you should
be testing for iron and copper, to better understand the
extent and cause of the problem. This helps select the
best treatment option. Understanding the nature of
the problem, should be step one. For information
about our full selection of testing options, visit our
Test Equipment Store.
For information about treatment options, visit our
Stain Treatments Store.
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Helpful,
Problem-Solving Information, in a question and
answer format.
▼ |
►
Treating Iron Stains, When Using A Mineral
Sanitizer?
I have a 2004 model
spa. I use a Mineral Spa Sanitizer and
change the water every 3-4 months. In
the past 6 or 7 months, I’ve started to get
rust stains on the spa surface near the
continuous circulation outlet (the outlet
where ozonator bubbles come out).
What is the likely source this staining.
Thanks.
Keith, 1/27/2018
What you are describing sounds like iron.
Possibly, it is present in the source water
used to fill the spa. The fact that you are
using
a mineral purifier limits the treatment
options. Adding a stain remover and a
chelating agent will eliminate the stains,
but it will inactivate the metallic ions,
from the mineral purifier. You should clean
the spa with some
MetalTrap Stain Remover and drain
completely. Attach a
MetalTrap Filter
to the garden hose and refill the spa.
As water passes through the cartridge-like
MetalTrap Filter, iron and other heavy
metals will be removed. A MetalTrap
MT-10 Filter will remove up to 1 PPM of
metals, from 10,000 gallons of water.
The MetalTrap Filter should be used,
whenever new water is added, and will
last for years. I hope that I have
provided the solution.
Sincerely, Alan Schuster, 1/27/2018
►
Underwater Stains and More?
I have a 375 gallon spa and have noticed
considerable calcium build up on the walls
of my spa. I just drained and cleaned the
spa and could not get much of the calcium
off the walls and jets. I have noticed that
after about two months, the spa water, while
clear when still, turns milky when the air
is on. The calcium hardness right now is at
about 100. What can I do to get the
stains off the walls and jets next time I
drain and clean the spa and how can I keep
the water from turning milky after about two
months?
You
seem to have several things going on. With a
calcium hardness of 100 PPM, there should be no
scaling. The cloudy water is probably the result
of silt, being raised from spa floor. You might
need a new filter cartridge, to improve filtration.
The stains could be due, to iron. Calcium scale is
not colored. Have the spa and source water tested
for copper and iron. Stains can be removed with a
MetalTrap stain Reversal kit.
If the source water
contains copper or iron, I
suggest using a MetalTrap
Filter to treat the water, as it is being added
to the spa. The milky water could be the
result of inadequate sanitation. Are you able to
maintain a stable level of sanitizer? If not,
you need to pay more attention to this task. I
hope that this information will be helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 1/13/2017
►
Treating The Stain And Discoloration
Problem The Right Way?
Hello We have a new hot tub with
well water. The first time we filled
it, we added the stain and control 1
with no concerns, water looked
great. Then when we refilled it, the
tub looks stained, because when we
take a cup of water out of the tub
it looks clean. Only difference was
that the technician said we don't
have to add the stain and control 1
till it is 85 degrees or the next
day. Could this be the reason for
the staining? How quickly are you
supposed to put in the bottle?
Cal, 11/24/2016
What
you were told makes no sense.
Waiting only assures that staining
and discoloration are more likely to
occur. At the
very least, I would have told you to
add the metal treatment, as the spa
is being filled, so that it can
react before staining or
discoloration can take
place. You will face this
problem, every time you add water or
refill the spa. It is not a
one time only problem, but is an
ongoing concern. Some metal
treatments don't fare well, over
time, and allow for a recurrence of
the problem. Avoiding the
problem is a better strategy.
Attaching a
MetalTrap Dual-Cartridge Filter,
to the hose used to fill the spa,
will remove dissolved metals and
sediments, before the water is added
to the spa. It is a one-time
investment, that can provide
effective mineral removal, for years
of refills and top offs.
Avoiding the problem always tops
treating the problem. If the
spa walls are stained, I would add
some MetalTrap Stain Remover and
drain and clean the tub.
Afterwards use the MetalTrap
Dual-Cartridge filter to refill the
spa. This filter comes in 3
sizes and each will remove up to 1
PPM total, of copper, iron and
manganese, from its rated volume.
If the total metals content is over
1 PPM, it will treat proportionately
less water. The metals
removing cartridge is replaceable.
The other cartridge removes
sediments and is washable and
reusable. The smallest size
might be OK, but having a spare
metal removing cartridge might be a
good idea. I hope
that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
11/24/2016
►
What To Do About Hard Water And
Sanitizing?
What is the best spa treatment for health
generally and for hard water specifically? Thank
you.
Laura M., 2/14/2018
How hard is
hard? Over
400 PPM and
calcium
hardness
problems
need to be
addressed.
If you can,
by all means
use the
softened
water, if
your water
is of poor
quality, is
very hard or
could
contain
dissolved
metals.
Otherwise,
you could be
in a heap of
trouble.
After the spa
is filled
take a
sample into
a local
dealer for a
water
analysis.
You will
need to
adjust the
calcium
hardness,
total
alkalinity
and the pH
to
compensate
for the use
for softened
water. Once
done, it
should be
treated like
any other
spa. Not
all water
softeners
can remove
iron and
other heavy
metals. You
could use
Liquid
METALTRAP
to treat any
iron present
or use the
METALTRAP
Filter
to actually
remove the
iron, from
the water.
If you don't
have soft
water
available,
you should
try to keep
the pH
closer to
7.2, but not
below.
Adding a
calcium
scale
treatment
can help.
The
Magnetizer
is a device
that helps
to minimize
issues,
resulting
for high
hardness.
It simply
attaches to
a pipe.
Your
best options
are chlorine
(dichlor or
lithium) or
bromine,
along with
something to
help to
reduce the
amount used.
Controlling
usage helps
to avoid
further
chemical
build ups
and lessens
the downside
of high
calcium
hardness.
Adding an
ozonator
can help
reduce
chlorine or
bromine
usage and
make pH
control
easier. In
place of
chlorine,
you could
use a salt
chlorine
generator.
There are
several
automatic
models, as
well as
others that
require no
installation.
I hope that
I have been
helpful. If
so, please
tell your
friends and
dealers
about the
website.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/14/2018
►
Black Ring Around The Tub?
We
have not used our vinyl-lined hot tub for a number of months
but it has been running and we have added chemicals and
dichlor as needed. However it has developed a Black Ring at
the waterline, which we cannot remove from the vinyl liner.
We are changing the water, have used a spa cleaner, to clean
the plumbing etc. However, the Black Ring is resisting
all attempts with cleaning pads, cleaning products and
baking soda, to remove it. Any help would be great. The hot
tub is about 9years old. Thank you.
Graham
S., 1/6/2015
Most likely the water contains copper, iron and other
minerals. Test the tap water used to fill the spa for copper
or iron, which are associated with
stains. Copper can also be the result of heater corrosion,
due to a low pH. Some mineral sanitizers can add copper, as
well. The metals in the spa water may have precipitated onto
the walls and resulted in stains and discoloration, which
are rarely removed by simply adding a metal treatment or
using common cleaners. Try this. Make a paste of some 500-mg
vitamin C tablets and rub onto a stained area. If this
works, the problem is positively due to metals. Add
1/2 pound of MetalTrap Stain Remover
in a white sock, shut off the filter and scrub the walls. If
the stain is removed, repeat elsewhere, as needed. ADD A
DOSE OF Liquid METALTRAP FOR
EVERY 0.5 PPM OF IRON OR COPPER. Liquid METALTRAP is
phosphate-free and does not lose effectiveness at a pH of
7.8 or higher, as do most other metal treatments. If
the stained area is too broad to be treated with the "sock",
it may be necessary to lower the pH to 6.8, discharge all of
the chlorine and add 1/2 pound of ascorbic acid. Wait
24-hours, after the addition of Liquid MetalTrap, before
restoring the chlorine level. Thereafter add a dose of
Liquid METALTRAP monthly or prior to adding new water, in
order to avoid a recurrence. I hope that I have been
helpful. If so, please tell your friends and dealers
about the website.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/6/2015
►
The Best Way To Treat Well Water?
We have just
purchased a new spa and have already gone through the hassle
of filling it with well water (big mistake!) For the past
month or so I have been playing the filtering game, cleaning
iron covered filters, adding special chemicals to clarify
etc. etc. I plan on getting my water shipped in the
next time we drain and fill the tub. However, I would like
to be able to "top off" in between draining and filling. My
thought was to purchase the METALTRAP 1-Micron Pre-Filter,
for Spas & Small Pools Item # PS-SF and the Liquid Metal
Trap, 1-Quart Bottle Item # LMT-10. Is this the best
approach, or is there something better that I should be
using? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
Todd D., Geneva, Ohio,
10/17/2014
The
1-micron will not remove the dissolved metals, just
the sediments. A MetalTrap
Dual Cartridge Filter System will remove both
the sediments and
the dissolved metals. Add a few ounce of
Liquid MetalTrap before
adding chemicals, for added insurance. The sediment
cartridge is washable and reusable. The MetalTrap
cartridge is replaceable. You should get many years
of use, out of the product. All you have to do is
attach it to the garden hose. I hope that this will
help solve the problem.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/17/2014
► Stain Ring
Around The Spa?
We have a spa in Illinois that is
almost a year old. We took care of it over the summer as
directed and just drained cleaned and filled it for fall.
After adding some ph decreaser and starting some testing we
noticed a rust colored ring forming we go it off, and did
some more testing and it came back. We are currently
draining again to refill. Can you help tell us why this
happened?
Amy S., Illinois, 9/17/2013
Most likely the water contains iron and other minerals. Test
the tap water used to fill the spa for iron, which is
associated with rust colored stains. The metals in the spa
water may have precipitated onto the walls and resulted in
stains and/or discoloration. Another option would be to use
the METALTRAP Filter, as it can remove metal, before they
get into the spa. The stains/discoloration are probably due
to iron, copper and other trace minerals and are rarely
removed by simply adding a metal treatment. Try this. Add
1/2 pound of MetalTrap Stain Remover in a white sock, shut
off the filter and scrub the walls. If the stain is gone,
repeat elsewhere, as needed. ADD A DOSE OF
Liquid METALTRAP
FOR EVERY 0.5 PPM OF IRON OR COPPER. Liquid METALTRAP is
phosphate-free and does not lose effectiveness at a pH of
7.8 or higher, as do most other metal treatments. At the
very least add two doses. If the stained area is too broad
to be treated with the "sock", it may be necessary to lower
the pH to 6.8, discharge all of the chlorine or bromine and
add 1/2 pound of MetalTrap Stain Remover. Thereafter add a
dose of Liquid METALTRAP monthly or use the MetalTrap
Filter, prior to adding new water, in order to avoid a
recurrence. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
9/17/2013
►
Pre-Treating For Manganese?
I am confused. I want to filter the
water coming from the hose, for
manganese and minerals? I have a 200 gallon
spa. Do I just need the pre-filter
that attaches to the hose, or do I
need something else also? Thanks.
Terry K., 4/13/2016
The
MetalTrap
Pre-Filter will remove fine
mineral sediments and particulates, but will
have no effect on the dissolved
manganese, copper or iron. These
any
dissolved heavy metals are not
removed, they will lead to staining
or discoloration, after reacting
with chlorine or other oxidizers.
If you have sediment-free water, you
should use a
MetalTrap Filter to treat all
new water additions. Even the
smallest size, will last for years,
as it can remove up to 1 PPM of
metals, from 10,000 gallons of
water. However, if sediments are
present, you should use the
MetalTrap
Dual-Cartridge Filter. The
first cartridge removes the
sediments and is washable and
reusable. The second cartridge
removes any dissolved heavy metals,
such as iron, copper and manganese.
This cartridge can be replaced, but
not reused. It can remove up to 1
PPM of heavy metals, from 28,000
gallons of water, so it should
provide many years of being able to
treat water used to refill the spa.
In the long run, it is better to
properly treat the problem and avoid
the staining and discoloration. I
hope that this has been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/13/2016
► Using The
Right Pre-Filter?
I bought a pre-filter (carbon). The
vendor told me it was good for about 3 refill of my spa (450
gallons). I used it once and it doesn't work anymore (water
don't go through anymore), but my water has never been so
clear! I think I have a lot of copper in my water because it
was always green when I filled it before using that
pre-filter. I'm thinking buying the "MetalTrap 1-Micron
Pre-Filter, for Spas & Small Pools". Do you think it will be
usable for a couple of refills? I know it says 10 000
gallons, but I want your opinion on it.
Isabelle E., Canada, 10/27/2009
The METALTRAP 1-Micron Pre-Filter will remove ultra-fine
particles and many microorganisms. It is particularly useful
where the source water is of poor quality. It should be able
to be used to refill your spa up to 20 times, depending of
the nature of the source water. However, your description
of the water color and the mentioning of a copper
possibility, leads me to question, whether a
METALTRAP
Filter would not be a better choice. The METALTRAP
1-Micron Pre-Filter will remove the metals that have
precipitated, but not those in solution. The "green" color
could be copper or iron or both. The METALTRAP Filter will
remove all the dissolved metals, and will save you from having to
deal with discolored water and stained surfaces. The
METALTRAP MT-10 should be able to be used up to 20 times to
refill the spa. You can always test the water, before and
after, to confirm the Filter is still effective. The best
way to deal with metals is to physically remove them from
the water and not with chemical treatment. I hope that this
information will problem helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/27/2009
► Well Water
Containing Sulfur?
I observed floating particles in our
hot tub. The flakes are yellow in color, have the texture of
dead skin and can be up to half an inch in size in some
cases. We use water direct from our well which contains 5
ppm of sulphur. When I asked our local dealer about the
problem, he stated that this is due to the sulphur attacking
the lining of the rubber hose plumbing. The sulphur
eventually lifts off flakes of the hose which take on the
color of the sulphur. He said that the remedy for this is to
use a stain control product which keeps the sulphur
particles suspended (sequestered) in the water thus keeping
the sulphur from etching the rubber lining. He said that
this can begin to occur after about sixteen months of use
which makes sense in our case. I have begun the use of the
stain control and will continue to observe for improvements.
Have you ever seen this condition or heard of this remedy?
Dennis, Canada, 1/12/2009
You can't sequester sulfur. But there is a solution. The
METALTRAP 1-Micron Pre-Filter will remove lots of the
minerals that cause odors and discoloration. Use it every
time you fill the spa and you'll save yourself a lot of
problems. If this is the only source of water, I would
bring in a sample of fresh water and have it tested for pH,
TA and calcium hardness. I would allow the chlorine level to
reach zero, add a 1/4 pound of METALTRAP Stain Remover and
let the water recirculate for at least 12 hours. Drain and
clean the spa. Use a METALTRAP 1-Micron Pre-Filler to treat
the new water, as the spa is being refilled. Always
pre-filter new water. Adding a monthly dose of calcium
scale treatment is a good idea, if the hardness level is over
400
PPM. For best results drain and clean the spa, every 3-4
months. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/13/2009
► Is It Black
Algae?
I have read all the problems submitted
by others. Our discoloration is mostly dark green with many,
mottled black spots. The green looks like oxidized copper.
Is it still considered "black algae"? If so, what do you
recommend?
Alan G., 6/16/2010
It is extremely unlikely that the problem is black algae! It
could very well be a copper stain that resulted from
corrosion of the copper heater core. Ask your self the
following questions? Is chlorine or bromine being used? Has
the pH been below 7.0, for extended periods of time? Are you
placing chlorine or bromine in the skimmer? I suggest that
you have the water tested for copper. If present, that will
conform the corrosion. You will have to treat and clean the
spa. METALTRAP Stain Remover can be used to remove stains.
After the removal, either drain and rinse the spa or add a
dose of Liquid METALTRAP. If corrosion was the cause, you
need to pay more attention to the pH and total alkalinity of
the spa water. I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/10/2010
► Discolored
Water?
I have a 275 gallon spa and recently I
emptied, cleaned and refilled the spa. I added the chemicals
(bromine) in the usual way and the spa water started to turn
brown in color. I brought a sample into a local dealer and
he said that it was iron. It never happened before. Can you
explain this?
M. L., 12/17/2016
Where did the iron come from? That's the real question. If
iron is not normally present in your household water on a
regular basis, it might have ended up in your spa water
because a fire hydrant was opened somewhere, up line, in the
neighborhood. That caused sediments to be lifted off the
bottom of the pipes and the rest you know. It is also
possible that your water does contain an occasional trace of
iron, depending upon the conditions at the water source,
rainfall amounts, etc. Knowing the amount of iron present is
helpful. Make sure that you add a quality metal treatment,
such as Liquid METALTRAP, in sufficient quantity, for the
amount of iron present. Add another dose monthly and prior
to the addition of makeup water. The hope that this
information cleared things up for you.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/7/2016
► Water
Turned Purple?
I just changed the water in my hot tub
and it is purple. I've had the spa for 5 years and this is
the first time anything like this has happened. The water
came out of the faucet clear and after I balanced it, the
water turned purple. The only thing that was done
differently this time was I used a pre-filter to eliminate
the iron ring after filling. Is the water good and will it
clear up? Any help would be appreciated. Thanx.
Mike C., 11/8/2011
Most likely the water contains iron, manganese, copper and
other minerals. Purple suggests manganese and copper. Test
the tap water used to fill the spa, as chemicals in the spa
water may interfere with the test. The metals in the spa
water may have precipitated onto the walls and may not show
up in a water sample. A good option would be to use the
METALTRAP
Dual-Cartridge Filter System, as it can
remove metals and minerals and contaminants, before they get
into the spa. ADD A DOSE OF Liquid METALTRAP FOR EVERY 0.5
PPM OF IRON OR COPPER. Liquid METALTRAP is phosphate-free
and does not lose effectiveness at a pH of 7.8 or higher, as
do most other metal treatments. At the very least add two
doses. Thereafter add a dose of Liquid METALTRAP monthly or
prior to adding new water, in order to avoid a recurrence. I
hope that this information will help clear things up.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/8/2011
► Only The
Spa Is Stained?
I recently purchased an
iron test kit
from your site, so I'd appreciate a bit more help. Enclosed
is a picture of spa water which occurred when the spa person
washed the spa filter in muriatic acid and then thoroughly
rinsed it. There have been red rust stains on the spa.
Cistern water tests "no iron" but water you see in the spa
tests 0.3 iron. The spa uses bromine. The pool which uses
salt chlorination and shows no rust stains. I've just
replaced the spa gas heat exchanger (now cupronickel) and
there's no other source of rust. The whole house water
filter DOES, however, fill with a reddish material on the 1
micron filter we use to filter it out. We believe that the
dirt on the hillside in the Virgin Islands (red) has a lot
of iron in it. Please answer this: Why does the spa
show iron stains and not the pool? Does the bromine
precipitate any iron that is in the water? Does salt
generated chlorine not precipitate iron so the pool does NOT
get stains? Do you think we need a specific iron filter?
Thanks.
Norm, Virgin Islands, 4/30/2017
Red colored soil usually is high in iron. There is a
possibility that copper is interring with the iron test and
is showing up as iron. What I see in the spa are not iron
stains. Copper stains from corrosion of the heater core are
more likely. The action of chlorine or bromine, upon iron
or
copper is virtually the same. Iron stains are yellow to rust
colored. Copper stains are blue-green to black. You replaced
the heater coil, why? The pool operates with a
salt chlorine
generator and low pH is rare, because the SCG drives up the pH.
Bromine or chlorine will not attack copper unless the pH is
acidic. Most likely the pool's pH is always around 7.8 or
higher. The spa is using bromine and bromine tablets are
acidic. If the pH drops below 7.0, corrosion and staining
could result. The photo seems to show that. If you used
bromine tablets and did not add pH Increaser on a regular
basis, your pH was too low. I think you need to do the
following. Add several doses of phosphate-free,
Liquid
METALTRAP, to the pool and spa. Add another monthly. Use a
METALTRAP Filter, while adding any new water to the pool or
spa, to help remove particulated iron. For cleaning of the
spa stains try using a solution of METALTRAP Stain Remover.
Refer to the page on pool staining problems, for more on this
topic. I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/30/2017
► Turned
Brown?
We were changing the water and we
added the calcium hardness treatment. Then we add the
bromine and it turns brown. We have changed the water
regularly and this has never happened before. What is wrong?
Linda M., 4/15/2007
This sounds like a spa, but you didn't make that clear.
Either way, everything applies. Pools/spas that turn color
after bromine has been added usually have a metals problem.
This can be very common with well water. ASAP add at least a
double dose of a quality metal Treatment, such as
phosphate-free, Liquid METALTRAP. This might help avoid
staining and should make an improvement. Bring in a water
sample to a local dealer and have the water tested for iron,
copper and other parameters. I suggest adding a dose of
metal treatment for each 0.5 PPM of metals. Add another dose
prior to adding new water. A monthly dose is an additional
safeguard against a recurring problem. To help avoid such
problems, I suggest using a metal removing pre-filter It can
remove much of the metal content and help avoid such
problems. I hope that this information proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/17/2007
► Black
Spots?
My spa and pool are 4 years old. I
have been treating my spa for what I thought was Black Algae
for the last five weeks. The temperature finally cooled off
so I could empty it and scrape off a sample. I took the
sample to the pool supply place and they determined it was
metallic. There are two spots, about the size of silver
dollars, on the side of the spa. What could be causing this?
Thank you.
Jake G., 10/29/2008
The
stains could be the result of
copper, in the presence of high
levels of calcium hardness. The
copper could have come from
corrosion of the heater. Assuming
that the spa and pool are gunite,
try putting about 1/2 pound of pH
reducer in a sock and place on a
spot. Leave in place for about 30
minutes. Hopefully, this will
dissolve the upper layer of plaster
and remove the stain. Sometimes, it
is necessary to use
METALTRAP Stain Remover for this
purpose. Sometimes black spots form, as a result of the use
and abuse of calcium chloride in the plaster mixture. This
problem was well described in the 1/15/03 issue of Service
Industry News (Carlsbad, CA). If this is the case, there is
nothing that is known to eliminate the problem, short of
refinishing. I hope that the information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/29/2008
► Green Gunk?
We have a fiberglass spa (500 gal) and
it has developed green "gunk" (for lack of a better
description). This stuff is in small chunks and adheres to
the sides of the tub, our suits, of course it's filling the
filter and it's covering the plastic parts of the filter. If
it lands on anything while hosing out the filter, it sticks
like glue. It can be scrapped off the tub and filter. What
caused it and how do we get rid of it? We switched from
bromine to chlorine, could that have caused it? We drained
and cleaned the tub and filter before switching. Thanks.
Kay and Jim, Florida, 3/10/2012
This "green gunk" could be copper, resulting from corrosion
of the filter. Not a good thing! Have you been failing to
maintain the pH at 7.2-7.8? Low pH conditions will corrode
the copper heater core, in the presence of chlorine or
bromine. Chlorine tablets should not ever be used in
a spa,
especially not in the skimmer. I suggest that you have the
water tested for copper. If present, it is the result of
corrosion and low pH. Add a double dose of a quality metal
treatment, such as phosphate-free Liquid METALTRAP, and make
sure that the pH is 7.2-7.8, at all times. You might be
better off draining the spa, if my assumptions are correct.
Otherwise, get back to me with the actual water analysis
results and the type of chemicals being used. Have you ever
considered an ozonator? It will make spa maintenance easier
and produce better water quality, with fewer chemicals. I
hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/10/2012
► Blue
Stains?
I have some blue-colored stains near
some jets and on the bottom. Could this have been caused by
copper? The spa is about 300 gallons and is about 12 years
old. I use bromine tablets and a non-chlorine shock. Is
there anything that I can do? Thanks.
Anthony N., VT, 10/30/2010
The blue-colored stains are probably due to copper. The
likely source is from your heater. If you're lucky, the
damage to the heater was not serious. You didn't mention
that there was any discoloration of the water, so I will
assume that there was none. That being the case, you
probably don't have much copper in the water. A
Copper Test
should confirm this. To avoid staining, I suggest that you
add a dose of a quality Spa Mineral Treatment, such as
phosphate-free, Liquid METALTRAP, to the spa water. The next
time that the spa is emptied, try cleaning the stained areas
with a solution of METALTRAP Stain Remover. Make sure that
you use rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse any metal
parts with water, to remove the chemicals and the dissolved
stains. Rinse spa clean before it is refilled and don't
forget to add a dose of the Liquid METALTRAP, as it is
being refilled. The cause of the copper problem was probably
due to corrosive, low pH conditions. In the future, make
sure that the pH remains in the 7.2-7.8 range. To help
stabilize the pH, the total alkalinity should be 80-120 PPM.
I hope that I have been helpful. Keep enjoying the spa.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/30/2010
► Stain
Removal In Pool-Spa Combo?
I have a large in-ground pool/spa, 7
years old, kidney shaped, about 30,000 gallons. It has had a
Copper Ionization + ozone system on it for about 5 years.
Over the years, the pool service did not maintain the pH
properly and the pool has developed gray stains. A drain and
acid wash is recommended by my pool service but I am
reluctant to proceed due to the expense and the impact it
has on the pool surface finish. My pool technician, has
suggested that he has been successful in treating stains
like these with the addition of Muriatic acid to the water.
I am willing to give this process a try as it appears cost
effective and should not damage the finish. I would like to
try the treatment on the spa first, and see if it is
successful. If yes, than I would like to do it to the whole
pool. What are the pros and cons to this approach? How much
Muriatic acid needs to be added for success? My spa is 8
feet in diameter. How many gallons of acid for the 30,000
gallon pool? How long should I let this circulate? Are there
different strengths of Muriatic acid? Which one should I
use? What is the best way to restore the water chemistry
after this operation? Thanks.
M.B., 10/24/2007
A pool or spa be subjected to an acid bath as a means of
stain removal. Basically it dissolves the top surface and
hopefully takes the stain with it. Lowering the pH will
subject the metal parts to corrosion, including the heater,
if chlorine or bromine are present. Therefore, treatment
should be in terms of a short period of time - a day or
less. This is important to help minimize the possibility of
excessive surface etching. You have to add enough acid to
lower the pH just below 7.0. A pH of
about 6.8 should suffice. Use the brush to scrub the
surface. Bypass the heater, if possible. A better and safer
method is to use the METALTRAP Stain Removal System. Once
the discolorations and stains are removed, use
The METALTRAP
Filter, for all future water addition and the problem should
not recur. Restore the pH and TA. Because the addition of
the metal treatment will interfere with the copper being
introduced by the ionization unit, I would recommend using a
polymer algaecide for a month or two, while the copper ion
content is re-established. I hope that this information
proves helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/24/2007
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