Corrosive pool conditions can cause a variety of pool problems and should be avoided, by maintaining the water chemistry as close to the optimum ranges, as possible.  Corrosion can result in damage to underwater metal surfaces and equipment, damage or even the destruction of copper heat exchangers,  etching of masonry pool surfaces, wrinkle formation in vinyl liners and an increase in the irritability of chlorine or bromine pool water sanitizers.  The corrosion of metal parts can release, into the water, metal ions that may lead to staining and/or discoloration.  Corrosive conditions can be eliminated or controlled by the adjustment of the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness.   Clicking on the underlined and highlighted "keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will give you access to additional information on that topic or product.  Please refer to the Glossary, if there are terms or phrases that require explanation.

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More information about pre-cast swimming pool coping can be found on the Federal Stone Industries Preview Page in the "Pools & Equipment" Product Information Section.   Links are available to connect  you to their website. 

► Pitting On The Pool Ladder?

The ladder on my above the ground pool is aluminum and has become pitted.  What causes this and what can I do?

J. M., 6/23/2003

Aluminum, if not suitably protected by a coating, can be affected by swimming pool water.  Low pH or high pH can affect aluminum.  Soft water conditions and low total alkalinity can add to the problem.  I don't know what the useable life expectancy of your ladder is, but it should be replaced, if there is a loss of structural integrity.   There are ladders made from plastic materials or stainless steel, that are better able to resist the problematic effects of corrosion.  When it is time to replace the ladder, your local pool professional should be able to offer advice on the choices suitable for your pool.  Enjoy the season.  I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/23/2003

► Copper & Heat Exchanger Corrosion?

That's quite a story.  Sounds like someone put a chlorinator in front of the heater and this resulted in the corrosion of the copper heat exchanger.  The only way to deal with the copper is by chelating the copper.  This will complex the copper and allow it to remain in solution, thereby avoiding the risk of precipitation or discoloration.  Mineral Treatment products use the term "remove" in a very general sense.  They actually mean "helps control."  These products do not physically remove the copper.  A concentration of 0.5 PPM is comparable to that of a copper algaecide.  By adding a quality mineral treatment you should be able to complex the copper and avoid problems.  Because this product will chelate all of the heavy metals and to assure that enough product has been added, I suggest that you add a double or triple dose.  Thereafter, add an initial dose each springtime opening.  Allowing the pH to remain at 7.6 or above, decreases the solubility of copper and increases the likelihood of staining and precipitation.  To better assure proper overall pool water chemistry, visit a pool store that has a very reliable, professional lab such as a WaterLink or Pinpoint system, rather than a less accurate test kit or strip reader.  To locate a dealer near you, go to:  www.lamotte.com/pages/pool/expdeal/index.html I hope that I have been helpful.  Enjoy the season and the heater.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/25/2003

► Salt Corrosion?

I am a pool builder and am totally sold on salt chlorine generators.  They are great.  However, there is one sticky point I need to clarify with my potential customers. Corrosion. As I am located in Toronto Canada, we use salt on our roads in winter and it rusts our cars over time. Everybody knows it. I know that the levels are much higher than in a pool. Can you please provide me with some data on the corrosive elements of a salt chlorine generator, so I can answer these objections. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

Bill D., Toronto, Ontario, 3/4/2005

The parts of the cars that rust are made of ferrous metals (steel) and possibly some other metals or alloys.  There is no doubt that salt will have a negative effect on cars.  However, pools are not made of ferrous metals.  The salt add to a salt chlorinated pool will only result in corrosion, if two dissimilar metals are in immediate proximity to one another.  Without this relationship being present, there will be no corrosion due to the salt.  Pump, filter and accessory manufacturers have long known about this problem and the newer products are designed with the thought that a salt chlorine generator might be in use.  If the pool walls are steel, the liner separates the water from the steel.  Gunite pools have finishes that are salt water tolerant and fiberglass pools are completely unaffected.  If the ring on an underwater light is stainless steel and the screws that hold it in place are chrome-plated brass, they will completely dissolve over time.  If the screws are stainless steel, there is not longer a corrosion problem.  The overall pool water chemistry must be maintained within the accepted parameters, as with any pool.  Testing the salt level helps to get proper performance and helps assure longer life for the salt-cell.  I hope that I have put your mind at ease. 

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/5/2005

► Corrosion Concerns?

We are in the market for a pool.  We are trying to find out the facts on saltwater vs. chlorinated pools.  We had one guy trying to sell us a saltwater pool.  We were told by another pool builder that they love saltwater pools, but stopped building them because the water was eating up the coping.

Shawn M., 4/17/2007

There are millions of pools with salt chlorine generators out there and all have coping, of various types.  My first Lectranator salt chlorine generator usage was nearly 25 years ago.  Possibly, there are some types that do not fare well with salt chlorinated pools or any water with high total dissolved solids (TDS.  Some  natural stones could be ill-suited to use in any type of pool and should be avoided, unless properly sealed against the elements.  The problem is that natural stones can vary considerably, even when the names are the same.  You are only adding 2500-3000 PPM of salt:  ocean water is 15 times higher.  Some of the water in Arizona and elsewhere contains 1500 PPM or more, right out of the tap.  A five year old pool on regular chlorine could easily top 3000 PPM.  High levels of chlorine, which salt chlorine generators help avoid, is usually even more damaging.  I suggest discussing this with the builder.  Choosing a pool built of the right materials should eliminate problems.  It is easier to use and control, as compared to standard chlorine products and that accounts for its huge popularity.  About 90% of pools in Australia, where salt chlorine generator originated over 30 years ago, have these units in operation and they use coping, decking and everything else.  Some coping, decking and stone features may have to be sealed, with an appropriate product, to protect them, not only from the effects of salt, but from the effects of pool water and the elements, in general.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/17/2007

Editors Note:  The following information is from someone that I hold in high regard and is being added to help shed more light on this subject.

My name is Sean Assam, with Aqua Cal AutoPilot Inc.  I've been in the industry for 20 years and have been exposed to almost every facet of the pool industry.  I am CPO certified.  I instruct classes in Water Chemistry and Testing Methods, Pumps and Filters, and our own "Pool Pilot Flight School" (all of which are approved continuing education credits, required for Florida contractors).  I was the Technical Support Manager and R & D director for the last 5 years at AutoPilot.  Currently I do the Commercial sales and support for Aqua Cal (Heat Pumps) and AutoPilot.  So now I'm dealing with large commercial systems on small and large public pools, such as the Ritz Carlton Resorts, Hyatt Resorts, Four Seasons, Marriott Hotels, etc.  I'm sure if there were real issues, these major facilities would not even consider salt as an alternative to sanitizing their pools and spas.

For years, it seems that everything that has occurred negatively to a pool has been blamed on salt systems.  It really does not matter that these same issues have been around much longer than salt system, but salt has been the convenient scapegoat.  I'm not sure what may be causing the coping or deck damage, but in my opinion, these problems are regional and most likely have to do with the quality of the deck material (limestone quarry) and cement mixture.

The contractors are mostly in Arizona and Texas.  And while the materials they use there are similar to materials used nationally. It makes sense that even from the same quarry, the quality can vary from high grade to low grade.  If this were a salt issue, the problems would be of national scale.  Salt systems have been around in the US since 1984, even longer in Australia (1960's).  Prior to AutoPilot purchasing this company from The Olin Corporation, we were a distributor of the Lectranator salt system.  We've sold several thousand systems in South Florida alone and I cannot think of a single deck damaged pool that was contributed to the salt system.  Since we purchased the company in 1992, we've sold over 100,000 units nationally, and another 50,000 units internationally.  That's just one manufacturer in the salt chlorination industry.  Combined, there are over a million salt systems installed in back yards all over the US.  Certainly, this would be a national epidemic, if it were damaging.  Yet, we're not seeing this, but on a few isolated cases.  I can say that none of these contractors, having damage to their customer's pools, were AutoPilot dealers.  If so, I would have been personally called out to investigate the problem.  That's not to say that we're much different than the others.   Salt systems all operate in a similar manner.  I can say though that salt systems are being unfairly blamed for these long standing issues.  Some natural materials are inappropriate to use with any pool and others should probably be protected with a sealer.

If chlorine works better at lower pH readings, why not keep the pH lower than 7.2-7.6?

Anonymous, 5/3/2003

Chlorine does work better at a pH below 7.2.  However, there are consequences that will result.  Corrosion can present a problem below 7.0.  As the pH falls below 7.2, chlorine can become increasingly more aggressive and irritating.  The pH of the eye fluid is 7.6 and, as you move further away, discomfort can increase.  Depending upon the type of pool -  vinyl lined or masonry - corrosive low pH conditions can cause surface etching, liner wrinkling and equipment damage.  A pH of 7.2-7.6, helps assure bather comfort, allows effective sanitizing and helps avoid corrosion.  I hope that I have answered the question.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/3/2003

► Pool Liner Wrinkles?

When my vinyl liner was installed a few years ago, it nice and smooth.  Today, I see some wrinkles in one area.  What's the cause?

Barry D., Cinc., OH, 7/13/2004

Two things come to mind.  It is possible that the bottom has undergone some shifting and/or settling over the past few years and this has led to some wrinkling.  Another possibility is that corrosive, acidic water conditions have caused the vinyl liner to increase water absorption and this has led to a stretching of the liner and the wrinkles.  Is it possible that you have been keeping the pH too low?  It is important to maintain the pH in the 7.2-7.6 range for bather comfort, sanitizer efficiency and to help protect the pool equipment!   Low pH can be quite common with the use of trichlor tablets in an automatic chlorinator because the product is acidic and requires regular pH monitoring.  Because the water looks good, many people tend to neglect the pH.  The practice of "dumping" in chemicals and allowing them to remain on the bottom, for prolonged periods, is not recommended.  Acidic chemicals such as pH decreaser, muriatic acid or cyanuric acid can create the acidic conditions that can contribute to this problem.  Always take care to broadcast or distribute all chemicals, so as to avoid local high concentrations and lessen the likelihood of problems.  I hope that I have been helpful. 

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/13/2004

► Rough Surface, Grayish Color & Hives?

We have a gunite pool that was installed last Spring (2003), and have had a company servicing the pool since then.  Our plaster has gotten rougher, and is pitted around some of the marker tiles.  Is this normal aging (in one year) or what would be likely causes?  Also, we have areas in the plaster that have been grayish since installation, but the pool company said that was normal, what do you think?  Last, my children and my husband have experienced a hivish sort of rash, with extreme itching, the last few times they were in the pool/spa, but the pool serviceman said nothing he put in should cause that.  Any ideas? Thanks.

Brenda P., 5/3/2004

It sounds like corrosive water conditions:  low pH.  That would explain the pitting and roughing up of the surface.  If you have a heater, it could also explain the graying of the surfaces.  Acidic water conditions cause chlorine to be more aggressive and irritating and this fits it with what you are describing.  If your pool is being maintained on slow dissolving chlorine tabs in a feeder, it sounds like little or no attention is being paid to the pH.  Have the pH total alkalinity and calcium hardness tested.  If you have a heater, have the water tested for copper and add a couple of doses of a quality metal treatment at least 6 hours before raising the pH.  Proper chemistry won't repair the surface, but should prevent a further worsening.  No, this is not normal!  Hope the information helps.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/3/2004