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"Floatation/Isolation Chambers"
Dealing with some unique chemistry situations.
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Floatation Tanks or Chambers, also known as
Isolation
Tanks,
Sensory Deprivation Tanks, Salt Water Spas and Rest Chambers,
are designed to separate you from the distractions and
stimuli of the real world and take you a place of quiet, dark, relaxing
isolation, as you float bouyantly upon a pleasurable body-temperature liquid.
Instead of ordinary water, a concentrated solution of Epsom salts is used.
Set your mind free!
Floatation tanks can be accessorized
to suit your needs. Maintenance of the water must be done, so as to assure
proper and sanitary conditions.
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Floatation
Tanks are quite different from spas, but have some of the same
needs.
More information about the
ColorQ Water Analyzers
can be found by clicking on the image, lower right above. These hand-held, digital
testers require no color matching or look up charts and perform the
following tests: pH, Free & Total Chlorine, Bromine, Total Alkalinity,
Hardness, Cyanuric Acid, Iron, Copper, Biguanide & Biguanide Shock.
Different models are available, for varying needs.
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►
Floatation Chamber Sanitizing?
I'm interested to
install a custom made floatation chamber, which uses a very high concentration
of Epsom Salts (about 280 kgs/500 litres water). Due to the extremely high
concentration of salt, water is 99% sterile, in order to achieve 100% it's
required an additional sanitizer. Which can be the best sanitizer system?
Ozonator? UV? Brominator? Keeping in mind the high salt concentration,
could there be any damage to the system? Corrosion or rusting?
Jorge P., 7/9/2008
UV will sanitize the water
without chemicals and in an enclosed space that is very important. Bromine will
sanitize the water and oxidize the wastes, but chemical odors might present a
problem in the enclosed space. An
Ozone Generator
will allow Ozone gas to accumulate, in the air space,
and will require special precautions, such as venting before use. While UV will sanitize the water
effectively, something must be added to oxidize the waste products.
Hydrogen peroxide can be used for this purpose and would not create an obvious
chemical presence. For more information on
UV sanitizing
go to:
www.deltauv.com
Corrosion should not be an issue, as the equipment is intended to be used in a
high salt situation. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the experience!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/9/2008
► Proper Floatation?
Hello
Alan, I am in Hendersonville North Carolina. I am trying to figure out what
type of testing product I need in order to keep an eye on the level of Epsom
salts in my floatation tank. Can you help? Thank you in advance for any
assistance you can offer.
Bethanne, Hendersonville, NC, 4/27/2004
Several ways to do this. Test the
amount of magnesium or the amount of sulfate present. Because the
concentration is so high, you would have to dilute the water sample with
distilled water. In short, you would
become an analytical chemist. You could dilute a sample and use a
dissolved solids meter. Or you could simply drop a hydrometer in the tank.
A hydrometer is a bobbing glass cylinder that is calibrated to read specific
gravity or density. When the specific gravity is too high, you add water.
Too low - you add Epsom salts. This would be the simplest water to it.
Possibly, the manufacturer has made a tester, similar to what is used to test
antifreeze levels. In any event, this is doable. The manufacturer
should be able to provide you with details on testing. To use any of these
methods, you have to know what consists the optimum range. I hope that this information was of some assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/27/2004
► Brown Water And Sediments?
The water, in my floatation tank is coming out brownish. It
appears to be coming from the out flow or possibly the problem is in the tank
water, as it gets stirred up, it turns brown. 30 minutes, after the pump
stops the water is clear again. I'm baffled? Just not sure why this is
happening. It can't be rust, as it all looks to be all plastic to
me. Possibly something in the UV filter canister? I look forward to
your reply.
David, W., 8/26/2009
The sediments could be impurities,
such as manganese, iron and other metals, from the Epsom salts.
Using technical or industrial grades can increase this problem. I suggest
using a pharmaceutical or food grade of Epsom salt. Vacuum
them up or filter them out and the problem should not return, unless you add
more salt. There is nothing in the UV unit that would cause this problem! While it is extremely unlikely that
algae, mold or bacterial will ever flourish in a floatation tank and a
UV
sanitizer will kill most anything
passing through the cell, it is not enough by itself. Oxidation is
required to decompose all of the debris, wastes and dead microorganisms that
pass right through the filter. Hydrogen peroxide or potassium
monopersulfate would be the logical choices. An
Ozonator could be used, if limited to
certain periods of user inactivity and the chamber is vented before use. Better
filtration could remove some of this debris accumulation. Vigorous circulation and agitation will help suspend the
microscopic particles and allow for more effective filtration. I hope this will
help solve the problem.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
8/28/2009
► Turning Brown & Cloudy?
My problem doesn't related to a spa, but to a floatation
bed. Just as background, my colleague and I have a business in which we use
flotation beds. The floatation beds are filled with nothing but Epsom
Salts, distilled water and chlorine. Over the past few days the water in
the beds has become not only cloudy but almost rusty looking. Use of filter
cleared the water previously, but it is not working this time. I have four
beds and if the water isn't clear, people cannot float and the business
comes to a standstill. As background, "floating" is a relaxation
technique in which a person lays down in a bed of water (and Epsom Salts)
and floats. The beds are dark and quiet, and the stillness induces a state
of relaxation and oftentimes sleep. The beds are specially manufactured for
this purpose. There are a few floatation centers in the US and some spas
here also have one bed, however it is not all that common. Floatation
centers are far more common in Europe. Any information you could
provide would be greatly appreciated. Regards.
Katherine G. 8/22/2008 Most likely
the Epsom salts contained iron and manganese and their oxidized states are
causing the discoloration.
Try vacuuming,
first thing in the morning. Using chlorine, as a sanitizer, has
to be a realer downer. I would prefer to use an ozonator, making sure
to vent the tank, for at least 30 minutes prior to use. In addition,
you could use a low level of bromine, perhaps 1-2 PPM. This will help
confirm that the bromine has done its job, if only small amounts of bromine
are required. The cloudiness could be due to inadequate oxidation,
caused by the limited use of chlorine. Adding an
ozonator
will provide much better oxidation of wastes products and microorganisms.
For more about ozone go to:
www.waterquality.ca For
additional sanitizing, you might consider using a
UV
sanitizer. For more
information go to:
www.deltauv.com
They might add a dose or two of a metal treatment. Testing for iron
and manganese should be done, although I am not sure a read will be gotten,
with all that magnesium sulfate present. I hope that this information
is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
8/23/2008
►
Brown Sediments?
I just filled the floatation tank up and added the required
amount of Epsom Salts and some other chemicals. I am beginning to see some
brown sediments. What causes this?
H.N., 1/3/2008
It is likely that the Epsom Salts
contains trace metals, such as manganese. Sanitizing chemicals or
oxidation will cause sedimentation. These sediments can be filtered or
vacuumed out and should not return, if all the trace metals have precipitated.
A high efficiency filter will help
remove these particles and help maintain water clarity, as well. I hope
that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
1/4/2008
►
Would Not Be My Choice?
I am a floatation tank owner and have recently
run into some questions about the overall water maintenance. I have had
the tank for years and we have two people using the tank twice a week on a
regular basis. I never really had any issues, as far as the clarity of the
water in the past. I do not have the UV option, so the water purity is up
to whatever I use as a chemical system and filtration. In the past, I have
simply added a little bleach from time to time and everything stays pretty clean
(in appearance) for the most part. However the smell of the bleach in the
contained environment and a growing concern about over all water balance leads
me to look for alternatives.
After a little research looking for
non-chlorine and bromine spa disinfects, I cam across the biguanide product
line. In looking at their products, it appears to me that these might be a good
fit for my purposes. I purchased the startup kit but I am experience the
following issues.
1. The #3 product (sanitizer and scale) does
not seem to be able to reach and acceptable level of measure? I have added
much more then the recommended start up doses, but cannot get near the 30-50 ppm
range, as recommended by the test kit? It just seems to eat this stuff
without any increasing effect? I do get a 15 ppm reading, but cannot get
the level to increase beyond this point.
2. The test kit shows calcium hardness off the
scale. I assumed this would be the case with 800 LBS of Epsom salts in the
water. Will the calcium levels or salt, in this type of environment, cause any
issues with this type of water maintenance system? Should I be concerned
about the high levels of calcium? Is there anything that could feasibly
address this anyways with the salt solution?
3. I am assuming that I need to reach the
right levels of the sanitizer and use the oxidizer and scale line products
regularly as described by the product system to achieve a safe and verifiable
level of sanitation. In many of your other replies about flotation tanks, they
seem to address only using a high percentage hydrogen peroxide mix as an
oxidation agent. Do I even need the sanitizer and oxidizer in this product line
or should I scrap all of this and simply go with 35% Hydrogen Peroxide on some
regular basis? Will this work as both a sanitizer and an oxidizer?
4. Should I use standard products for pH
balance? The test kit shows by pH and total alkalinity to be high, can these be
addressed by the standard spa products and do they need to maintained in a
floatation tank environment like this? The tank product documentation does not
really address pH at all and simply suggests a little bleach or peroxide from
time to time.
Your web site is great source of information
and I appreciate any specific information you can provide to me. In
summary, I guess I have all of these specific questions which revolve around a
central theme which is, in a tank environment, do I need to be concerned about
total water balance like I would in a pool or spa? And does the biguanide
product line present any issue in a vary high saltwater concentrated
environment? Many thanks for your continued information focus to shed
light and solid information in this area. Best regards.
Dean T., 9/17/2007
Firstly, chlorine is a very poor
choice, even at low levels. It may function as a sanitizer and as an oxidizer,
but it will produce chloramines: an odorous, irritating and largely ineffective
form of combined chlorine. As chlorine reacts, with nitrogenous bather wastes,
chloramines are formed. Obviously, within the confirms of a floatation tank,
this cannot be pleasant.
UV
sanitizers require no chemicals, but can
not sanitize the walls of the vessel. Still it is a great place to start, as it
virtually destroys all of the microorganisms, in the return flow. For more
information go to:
www.deltauv.com The use of
biguanide seems ill conceived. It is usually not used in the presence of
divalent metals and you have lots of that present. The scale product probably
will not function in your magnesium rich environment. Magnesium contributes to
total hardness and probably interferes with the calcium hardness test.
In any event, I would make an effort to fill the tank with low calcium hardness
water and not be concerned about the calcium hardness, thereafter. Most
likely, the calcium readings are meaningless and probably are actually reacting
to the high level of magnesium, which is chemically close to calcium. Biguanide
does not provide the necessary oxidation function. Hydrogen peroxide will
provide the needed oxidation, but may not sanitize. Your water has a very high
dissolved salts content and is not an ideal media for microbial growth. You
might not need anything else, but it is not a given. Adding UV sanitizing will prevent a
microbial bloom, without chemicals and hydrogen peroxide will provide the needed
oxidation. An
Ozone Generator
could be used, but it will require venting of the tub, for a period after the
ozonator is switched off and before the tank is used. In the
interest of bather comfort and corrosion resistance, you should keep the pH at
7.2 - 7.8. Lowering the pH, if high, will lower the total alkalinity. You can
use sodium bisulfate to lower the pH. There is probably no compelling reason to
worry about the TA, as lowering the pH. will make scaling less likely, that it
is at the present. I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 9/17/2007
► Slimy Walls Require Oxidation?
I have a floatation/relaxation tank (containing a
high concentration of Epsom Salt to provide buoyancy) that I’ve been using UV to
sanitize. I’ve been having a problem with a slime buildup on the liner of
my tank. I’ve learned through your responses to other questions, that this
is due to the fact that UV is a disinfectant, not an oxidizing agent. You had
suggested to someone else that they use hydrogen peroxide as a shock. I
did this using the only hydrogen peroxide I could find which was the drug store
3% variety. I used this for a while, with no negative effects to the
water, but was concerned that the solution needed a stronger shock than it was
getting with 3% H 2O2.
I decided to give Potassium MonoPerSulfate a try. When I added the
Potassium MonoPerSulfate to the tank water with the circulator running, my water
immediately changed color to a murky chocolate brown. Over night it faded
to a light tea color. I figured one of three things were the problem:
Either 1. There was a reaction between the monopersulfate and the Epsom
Salts 2. I didn’t use enough monopersulfate, and what I was seeing
was half oxidized bio matter. Or 3. There was a reaction between any
residual H2O2
and the monopersulfate. To test this, I mixed up a fresh batch of clean
tank solution (about a pound of Epsom Salts to 12 ounces of water) and added a
tiny bit of monopersulfate to it. – NO COLOR CHANGE. Next I added some
more MonoPerSulfate to it – STILL NO COLOR CHANGE. I then cautiously added
a little 3% H2O2
to it – STILL NO COLOR CHANGE. I figured since I couldn’t get any color
change using my tests of clean solution, my problem must be half oxidized bio
matter. Acting on this assumption, I added more monopersulfate to the
tank. After about another hour or two of running the tank circulator, I
checked the water, and found it to be lighter, but not clear. Being
impatient, and fairly confident that monopersulfate and H2O2
mixed OK together, I added a little of the peroxide. Almost
instantaneously the water turned crystal clear. At this point I figured I
had applied enough shock, and the water was happy again. Assuming that the
cause of my problem was un-oxidized bio matter, I decided to stay a step ahead
of things this time. With the water freshly shocked a couple of days
earlier, and no use of the tank since, I added about an ounce of monopersulfate
to the tank solution. Immediately the brown color returned. I added some
more monopersulfate after a while, and still the brown color. I then added
about 10 ounces of 3% H2O2
and instantly, the solution cleared again. Could you answer the following
questions?
-
What the
heck is going on to create these sudden radical color changes? Why did the
monopersulfate turn the tank water brown? Why did the peroxide return it to
crystal clear? Why couldn’t I duplicate this reaction in a fresh glass of
Epsom Salt Water?
Now that the
water is clear, is it safe to float in?
What should
I use going forward? Monopersulfate, Hydrogen Peroxide, or both?
If the
answer to #3 is Hydrogen Peroxide? Is the 3% drug store variety appropriate
(I can get a quart for about $1.25 so it’s pretty cheap), and if not where
do I purchase a stronger variety (from what I’ve read on the web 8%+
solutions are classified as hazardous. Not to mention extremely
expensive, mostly due to shipping)?
I’m using a
small cartridge filter and a UV lamp in the filtration system. Do either of
these now need to be serviced/cleaned as a result of this?
Thanks in advance for you help on this. Hopefully
your background in chemistry can shed some light on what’s going on.
Dave, 12/19/2006
The decomposition products of
peroxide and MPS are all colorless. You could be dealing with less than a
PPM of a trace metal and that is nearly impossible to see in a small
sample. The Epson salt may have contained metals such as manganese or
iron and this led to a brownish sediment. Oxidation will cause many
trace metals to darken in color and precipitate, as the less-soluble,
oxidized forms develop. It should settle out and/or be removed by
filtration. Once removed, the problem should not recur, unless
more salts are added. The addition of the MPS probably oxidized iron or other trace
metals to a more colored state. Adding some metal treatment might or might
not help, given the high magnesium concentration. I would not use MPS, in
this application, as I have received letters about irritation, when excess
amounts are present. Hydrogen peroxide seems to make the most sense. Pool
and spa dealers, that sell biguanide sanitizers, will carry a concentrated
peroxide solution. This should prove more cost effective. To provide
oxidation, you might consider an
ozonator.
However, it should be used only when the unit is not being used and you
should vent the chamber before each use. Visit
www.deltauv.com
for more on UV sanitizing. It is possible to test the peroxide
level: visit
www.lamotte.com
for more on the subject. For the water to be pleasant and safe, you
want all traces of slime gone and water chemistry within the reasonable
range. I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
12/20/2006
► Unpleasant Odors?
I have Epsom salt water that I am using in my floating tank. At the moment
the water has an odor that I would like to get rid of. The water is
filtered with a 2 micron filter and a UV filter. It was after I
added more Epsom salt to the tank that the stink started. How much
hydrogen peroxide should I use to get rid of the smell? Can
Epsom Salt absorb odors, if it is stored next to other smelly chemicals?
I have 1600 pounds of salts in the water so I would like to keep it. I
am looking forward to hear from you. Best regards.
John L., 6/12/2009
You really can't do this without testing.
The odors are probably from microorganisms and/or organic wastes and byproducts
and are not from the Epsom salts. Peroxide will oxidize and destroy the
contamination and eliminate the odors. You have to add a few ounces of
peroxide, at a time, until you register a stable reading between 20-80 PPM. For
more about Hydrogen Peroxide Test Strips go
www.lamotte.com
Neither the UV sanitizer or microfilter will solve this problem.
You might consider adding an
ozonator. It will
do the required oxidation. The only limitation is that you cannot use the tank,
while the ozonator is running and you must vent the tank, to clear out the ozone
from inside the tank. I suggest venting for 1/2 hour, about 1 hour after the
ozonator is shut off. Enjoy the floatation
experience.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/12/2009
► Too Many Chemicals?
I am planning on buying a floatation tank and am concerned about the
sanitizing. One dealer says, I don't need much and another says that I
should use ozone and a mineral sanitizer. I have been in spas and I don't
fancy being enclosed in that type of a situation. Is it possible to do
this without chemicals? Or as few as possible. Thanks for any help
you can provide.
Edward M., 5/12/2005
It is true that the presence of the high concentration
of Epsom salts will prevent most microorganisms from surviving. Most is
not necessarily good enough. You can sanitize the water without any
chemicals, if you use an
UltraViolet Sanitizer. It will sanitize
the water, as it passes through the cell, using only UV rays. However, you
will still need to add something to oxidize waste products. In a pool or
spa, chlorine or bromine are used most often. In a floatation chamber,
these products will create an unpleasant chemical presence. Adding
concentrated hydrogen peroxide will destroy the wastes and avoid an overbearing
chemical signature and seems the better choice. The overall water
chemistry should be maintained according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
I hope that I have been of some assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/12/2005
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