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Some Lesser Known Products
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Scroll down to browse
through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
Please access the Pool Topics Page and other links, at the top of
every page, for additional information.
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As the
swimming pool industry has matured, specialty chemical products have evolved.
There are specific products - for specific problems!!! Various products to
make pool maintenance easier or more effective and choosing the right product
for the task can help assure a better prospect of success, save time and money.
Clicking
on the underlined and highlighted
"keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will
give you access to additional information on that topic or product.
Please refer to the Glossary, if
there are terms or phrases that require explanation.
(Click the picture.)
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More information about the SolarPill for pools can be found on the
SolarPill Preview Page
in the "Pools & Equipment" Product Information Section.
Links are available to connect you to their website. |
►
Where To
Start?
I recently purchased a home in Woodland, CA with a
inground pool. The
Aquaflex
vinyl liner was replaced by the previous owner in 1999. My
concern is cleaning and water chemistry but I am totally overwhelmed by the
number of products on the market. Can you narrow down the list of
essentials I should keep on hand for proper maintenance of a vinyl lined
pool. Thank you.
Colleem T., Woodland, CA., 4/25/2005
The question is reasonable with a big
BUT! The chemicals that a pool will require are based upon the water
chemistry and the sanitizer being used. These are unknowns in your
case. Assuming that you are using chlorine, I would suggest a built-in
chlorinator. It will provide convenience and will be less likely to cause
a liner problem. If you use trichlor tablets you will need chemicals to
lower the pH. You may or may not need to adjust the total alkalinity,
chlorine stabilizer or calcium hardness: it depends upon how the water
tests. Adding algaecide is a good idea. Your water may or may not
contain metals that will need to be treated. Which brings us back to the
first sentence. The best way to determine the chemical needs is a water
analysis. Most pool professionals offer a complimentary
analysis. That's where you should start. You will have to perform
a free chlorine and pH test on a frequent or daily basis.
For this purpose, I find
test strips
most convenient. You can fill in a lot of the blanks by browsing through
the various topics of this website. I hope that I have been
helpful. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/25/2005
►
Helping The Solar Heater?
Can you use SolarPill with a solar pool heater? It is a
chemical filled ball that is placed in the skimmer, slowly releasing its
contents. Does it clog the tubes?
Yolande K., Tampa, FL, 3/13/2007
The major reason that pool water cools off is due to
evaporation. The
SolarPill
helps to reduce evaporation by forming a mono-molecular layer on top of the pool
surface. This ultra-thin film is biodegradable, so as not to cause buildup
problems. SolarPill will help retain the heat during the overnight period and
help reduce the overnight drop in temperature. Coincidentally, SolarPill is
manufactured by Smartpool, the producer of the
Sunheater
line of solar heating products. I hope that this information helps to keep
you in warm water.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster ,
3/13/2007
► How The
SolarPill Works?
Just purchased the SolarPill
yesterday. Cleaned the pool then punched the holes where indicated. Dropped
in both skimmers since we have a 20,000 gal pool. This morning the pill
does not seem to be emptied. How long does it take for the pills to empty?
What keeps the water from filling up the pill where holes are punched? How
do we know when we turn off pump that the cover is actually covering the pool? I truly hope this works! It's an awesome idea, if it really works!
Waiting to hear from you. Hopefully today!
Norma D., 8/24/2007
The
SolarPill
is supposed to be slowly
released over time and it is expected that water will enter the pill. The
filter must be operated to provide filtration and distribute sanitizer.
The active ingredient will pass through the filter and reform an invisible,
mono-molecular film, after the water returns to stillness. Evaporation is main
cause of heat loss and this product helps to reduce evaporation. Once
the pill is only filled with nearly clear pool water, should
consider it
exhausted. The film will biodegrade over time, in order not to cause a buildup
problem on pool surfaces and requires that another pill be used periodically,
for best results. I hope that I have helped clarify how the product works.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/24/2007
► How Long To Wait?
Hello. How are you
doing? We just recently purchased a 15ft x 4ft above ground pool. It has been
nice, but now we are having to add pH, soda ash and chlorine chemicals, etc. I
don't like chemicals, but I know they need to be added to keep it safe. I did
not find anything on the pH bottle about when it is safe to swim, after using
the chemicals. I have a 4 year child and I like to be safe about the
chemicals. If you get a chance, please let me know more about chemicals and
pool safety. Thanks so much!
K. H., 6/11/2004
How long to
wait? This question really does not have one answer! You don't
want people jumping into a "cloud" of chemicals. Follow the label
directions and add each chemical to dissolve
 in turn. Never directly
combine different chemicals. Make sure that the filter is operating while
chemicals are being added. Liquid chemicals can disperse more quickly,
than some granular chemicals. Some chemicals are more hazardous that
others. In the final analysis, it is a matter of allowing a reasonably
amount of time for the chemicals do be diluted by dispersion. Depending
upon the amount of chemical, type of chemical and strength of the circulation,
an elapsed time of 15 minutes to one hour might be reasonable. It is
always best to be able to re-test the water after some chemical additions, in
order to make sure that proper pool water chemistry is being maintained.
Let the label instructions and common sense be your guide. Better
circulation helps to assure quicker dispersion of the chemicals and eliminates
the dead zones that promote algae growth.
The Circulator is an easy-to-install
circulation booster, that will make the water come alive and provide
savings in electricity and chemicals. There is a page
for Pool Chemical Safety, available on the website. Be safe and enjoy.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/12/2004
► Clean Up Time?
What is the best way to
neutralize the chemicals used in pool servicing that have been spilled in the
backs of trucks? What are the neutralizing chemicals or compounds you would
use?
Matt., 10/9/2004
Trying to neutralize a possible mixture of chemicals is probably too risky. You
are better off using copious amounts of water to dilute and flush out all of the
chemicals. The water will reduce the risk of chemical reactions. Chemical
spills should always to handled in accordance with the instructions provided on
the packaging.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 10/9/2004
►
Enzyme
Use?
Although I have
never used such a product, I am curious about enzymes. How are they used
in swimming pools? Are there advantages, limitations and disadvantages?
My pool is a vinyl inground, 16 by 32 and I use a stabilized chlorine in an
automatic chlorinator. I am not having any particular problems.
Fayetteville, NC,
8/24/2004
Enzymes
can help digest or biodegrade oily residues, bather wastes, cosmetic residues
and organic byproducts.
The removal of these undesired materials can help improve water clarity, reduce
any tendency towards foaming, improve the appearance of the water line area and
help eliminate oily films that can interfere with sanitizing or filtration.
Those are the advantages. There are no disadvantages or limitations that
come to mind, inasmuch as enzymes are used in all types of pools, residential
and commercial. Just follow the directions on the label. I hope that
I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/24/2004
►
Urine
Detection?
I've
been told that there is a tablet that can detect urine in pool water.
What can you tell me about it? Thanks a lot.
Jo G., Merrick, NY,
8/2/2003
The joke's on
you! I can tell you
that no such product exists. Once upon a time there was a product like
that, but it was intended as a joke!
It was not intended to be anything else! Urine in a swimming pool is no
joke: it can quickly deplete the chlorine level, especially in smaller
pools, and will lead to the formation of odorous chloramines. If there is
urine in the pool, the odorous combined chlorine level will rise and the free
chlorine level will bottom out. Large amounts of shock will probably be
required to restore the proper chlorine levels. Toilet training is
better! I hope that I have debunked the myth and let's have no pee pee
in the pool. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/2/2003
► Lots Of Questions?
Hi, I find your web site
most interesting. Thanks. My husband and I have a small pool
business--retail as well as service. I have a few questions for which I have
been unable to find the answers--maybe you can help. Regarding "mustard
algae"--is it possible some of this is either dirt or dead algae circulating
through the sand filter and back to the pool? It seems as if most people who
think they have the mustard algae also have a sand filter. This is coupled
with the fact that many pool dealers in our area think "bigger is better" when
they sell a pump and motor. I spoke with a woman today who has an effective
2.2 HP (1.5 HP with a 1.47 SF) on a 24" sand filter! Others will say they
were sold a 1.5 HP pump and motor for only a few dollars more than a 1 HP.
Hasn't anyone checked out the flow rate charts? So much for may soap
box, but I was wondering if that could be causing ineffective filtration
rather than an actual algae problem? Also, I have had limited experience with
the sodium bromine products. I carried a product containing sodium bromide
which seemed to work well, but another (containing ammonium sulfate) I have
tried more recently creates a major chlorine demand requiring cases and cases
of sodium hypochlorite to achieve a residual free chlorine. I do use the
sodium bromide salts with a non-chlorine activator in our spa with good
results. I have limited knowledge of this phosphate problem, but we have
maintained clear, clean, safe pools for years without treating for it. Maybe
it's because more people are having their lawns treated that phosphates have
become a problem. At what point should phosphates be treated, and do you know
of a good, reliable test kit we as a dealer can use? I appreciate any light
you can shed on these topics. Keep up the good work
Carol
K., Cincinnati, OH, 8/25/2004
Dead algae can go right through some sand
filters. Many people make the mistake of backwashing too often. It should be
done when the pressure readings indicate a need. Almost all of the people
writing about cloudy water have sand filters. An oversized pump can be part of
the problem, but usually it is poor water chemistry and maintenance practices.
There are things that you do that can help improve the situation, in other than
a chemical sense. Replace the sand with
zeolite
sand filter media replacement: it is far better, than sand, at
removing dead algae and fine particles. Adding a
Robotic Pool Cleaner, with its built-in micro-filter will help remove
dead algae and improve the circulation across the pool floor, making algae
growth less likely. For more information on this product visit:
www.smartpool.com
Sodium bromide products do seem to work well in problem situations. The
other type of product, being based on ammonium sulfate will boost the chloramine content
and will require massive shock treatments to restore proper conditions.
Regarding the phosphate levels: I believe that you mean 500 PPB (B for billion)
and not 500 PPM (M for Million). In order to be effective, the phosphate level
must be reduced to near zero. 500 PPM is a very high level. If the phosphate
level is reduced, there is less tendency for algae growth, but keeping it low is
another matter. If a pool has a recurring algae problem, the use of a phosphate
eliminator can make sense. Nitrates is another possible cause of recurring
algae problems. For the majority of pools, clear water that is
algae-free can be achieved with modest phosphates present, provided that the
pool water chemistry, filtration and cleanliness are properly maintained.
LaMotte Company has phosphate and nitrate test kits suitable for your
needs. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
8/26/2004
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► Borate Levels?
I am using test strips to test the borate level in my 24k gal
pool and it is difficult for me to get an accurate color reading from the
strips. I think my borate level is somewhere in the 60-80 level. My pH is
about 7.1 and my TA is about 110 which I think is within reason. The borate
seems to be on the high side and my question is can I have a high borate level
without having the pH and TA levels also being high? Also, what problems would
the high borate level cause? Thanks for any and all help/comments.
Harry L., 7/10/2006
Borates help lower the amount of
dissolved carbon dioxide, depriving algae of a vital nutrient. The
suggested level is 30-50 PPM. Borates
do not prevent the pH and/or TA from being higher or lower than normal.
Insta-Test Test strips are available to test the borates
level. Your final pH will depend on the nature of the water and the type and quantities
of pool chemicals being added: chlorine having the most pronounced effect.
Higher borate levels can present some toxicity issues, especially with
pets that drinking from the pool. A recommended
range is used, so that a reasonable amount of chemicals can be suggested, as
being required to help achieve the desired benefit of using less chlorine.
I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
7/11/2006
► Safe Borate Level?
Someone suggested that I use borax in my
pool to help as an algaecide and said it would also decrease the chlorine usage.
Is this a safe chemical? If it is safe how much should I put in the water? How
much is safe? Is this a commonly practiced procedure? I live in a western
suburb of the Phoenix area and my pool capacity is 12000 gallons. Thanks
John B., Arizona, 3/12/2008
Borates will
decrease the amount of carbon dioxide in the pool water, helping to slow down
any potential algae growth. The recommended level is 30-50 PPM.
Levels higher than 80 PPM could to be close to causing the onset of toxic
symptoms, in pets and people that ingest too much water. It is used in a
variety of pool chemicals, full strength or as an additive. The
commercial product contains a lot of water. The pool grade usually
contains less water. If using the commercial product, you can add 8
pounds, to bring you to about 30 PPM. Borates can be measured with
LaMotte Insta-Test strips,
between 0 to 80 PPM. I hope that this information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/13/2008
►
Keeping The Water
Warm?
I heard that there is a product
that you can add to the water that will help keep the temperature from dropping
at night. It that true.
Brenda, R.,
Michigan, 6/25/2004Strange, but true. The
product works by forming a mono-molecular layer on the pool surface and is used,
at night, after the filter is turned off. Does it work? In theory,
if you reduce evaporation, you will reduce heat loss.
The
SolarPill is
easy to use and will definitely help keep the pool water warmer.
A better and reasonably inexpensive method of warming the pool water is the use
of a
solar
pool heater.
There are solar pool heating kits that are
easy to install and reasonable in cost. For more information visit:
www.smartpool.com
To get the most efficiency out of a heater
in an area, such as yours, a solar blanket (or the SolarPill) can be used, in conjunction with any
type of heater, to reduce night time heat
loss. These are plastic sheets (sized to completely cover the water) filled with air
bubbles, that are used as a cover on the pool surface. Solar
blankets are not safety covers! Put it on after the pool is
finished for the day and take it off when you are about to resume swimming.
If left on during sunny periods, it will cause the pool temperature to rise
significantly. Reels are available to remove and store the solar blanket,
until it is used again.
Safety pool covers are available that are either manual
or automatic and can help reduce heating costs or help keep unheated pool
warmer. Enjoy the summer.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/25/2004
►
Vinegar and Baking Soda?
I have been told that white vinegar and baking
soda are alternatives to pH balance. If this is so are they as good as the
commercial chemicals? Which one is used for raising and lowering?
Jim H., Minnesota, 6/13/2003
Although
people have written about vinegar before, I have no idea how the notion got
started. Vinegar is not a good
means of lowering the pH of the pool and it is certainly not cost effective.
While, I doubt that the bathers will smell like a pickle, there is really no
point in such usage. Baking soda is used to control the total alkalinity
of the pool water. It should be used on an as needed basis, in order to
adjust the total alkalinity upwards into the 80-120 PPM range. One and
one-half pounds will raise the TA of 10,000 gallons by approximately 10 PPM.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 6/13/2003
►
Exercise Physical Therapy
Pool?
IS THERE ANY REASON A BURN PATIENT SHOULD NOT USE
AN EXERCISE POOL THAT WE USE BROMINE IN?
Physical Therapy, 3/13/2003
I really am not qualified to
answer this question.
It should be directed to a medical doctor. I
am sure that the main concern is that the water be properly sanitized, so that
infection possibilities are at a minimum.
I know of no reason why bromine
would be objectionable, but it is the medical opinion that matters! Sorry that I couldn't be of more help.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 3/13/2003
►
Potassium Permanganate?
Can you tell me some of the possible uses of potassium
permanganate in a swimming pool? Also, is there a history of using this
product in the pool/spa industry? Thanks.
Scott M., 2/1/2007
I
have never heard of its use in the swimming pool industry and probably
for good reasons. It would introduce manganese compounds and that would
bring the risk of severe staining and discoloration problems.
While it is a powerful oxidizer, the use of chlorine or monopersulfate
makes more sense in treating a swimming pool. I hope that I have
been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 2/2/2007
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