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"The Droplet for Pools"

Balancing Pool Water Chemistry

Scroll down to browse through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.  Please access the Pool Topics Page and other links, at the top of every page, for additional information.

Proper pool water management starts with the analysis of the pool water.  Tests such as pH and chlorine need to be performed by the pool owner, on a  frequent or daily basis, depending upon the usage conditions.  The Chlorine test should be performed by a method that tests for Free Chlorine, as it is the most important form.  Tests such as chlorine stabilizer,  total alkalinity and calcium hardness are performed occasionally during the season and can be performed by a pool owner or dealer.  Tests for heavy metals such as iron, manganese or copper should be performed at the beginning of the season or at the first indications of pool water discoloration or a pool surface staining problem.  These pool water tests are usually performed by local dealers.   Tests for nitrates, phosphates or Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) are performed by some dealers, on a occasional basis, if a more obvious explanation is lacking.  Maintaining or balancing proper pool water chemistry or pool water balancing is important to help to minimize problems, assure optimum water quality and to maximize the ownership experience.  Clicking on the underlined and highlighted "keywords" or "catch phrases," in the archived answers will give you access to additional information on that topic or product.  Please refer to the Glossary, if there are terms or phrases that require explanation.

    

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More information about pool & spa water testing products can be found on the LaMotte Company Preview Page in the "Pools & Equipment" Product Information Section.   Links are available to connect  you to their website. 

Test Strip Accuracy?

What is the accuracy of swimming pool test strips?  I can't seem to get any of the manufacturers to send me lab data on the accuracy of the strips.

Richard K., California, 4/23/2003

Good question!  Test strips are not a precision laboratory means to test pool water.  They are intended to provide satisfactory and reasonably accurate test results, with convenience and ease of use.  If the test strip reads a pH of 7.4, that should indicate that the pH is 7.3-7.5.  For swimming pool or spa use, this is not a problem and is more than adequate.  If the Free Chlorine reads 1.0, that should indicate a concentration close to that value.  Does it matter if the true reading is 0.9 PPM or 1.2 PPM?  No!  It does matter, if the reading is 0.2 or 2.2 PPM.  The testing of swimming pool water does not require the precision and accuracy that one would expect of a blood or urine test.  Do test strips provide reasonably accurate and useful results?  Yes!  How you take the water sample or store the test strips can affect the test results.  I have a feeling that the manufacturers were reluctant to provide the information because they have no control over how the test is performed, the water is sampled, the directions are followed or how the test strips were stored.  However, not all brands are the same in terms of their formulation, manufacture or test chemistry.  My own personal experience with the product is very favorable.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/23/2003 

Editors Note.  In a follow up letter from the writer, he explained that he was with the California Dept. of Health and that they were considering test strip use in commercial pools.  I further explained that I do not have access to the manufacturer's data, but that the LaMotte Insta-Test Strips have been approved, by the state of Maryland, in the water testing of "limited use commercial pools."

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High Chlorine Reading?

I just put up a vinyl pool that is 15 ft round x 3 ft high. Since I just filled it I put a packet of  Vinyl pool shock (1 lb) with the pool filter running.  After a day I did the water test and the OTO level on the tester still shows above 3 ppm and the pH shows above 7.8.  I know I can add pH minus to reduce this, but how do I lower the latter to 3 ppm?  Thanks.

L. M., Deltona, FL, 6/9/2003

You may not have to anything about the chlorine reading.  While OTO is popular, it is far from the most meaningful test.  I suggest that you try using LaMotte Insta-Test Strips, as they provide the right kind of information - easily and reliably. This product tests for Free and Total Chlorine and is a much better indication of the pool's sanitizer level.  Occasionally, to better assure proper overall pool water chemistry, visit a pool store that has a very reliable, professional lab such as a WaterLink or Pinpoint system, rather than a less accurate test kit or strip reader.  To locate a dealer near you, go to:  www.lamotte.com/pages/pool/expdeal/index.html  The recommended level for Free Chlorine is 1-3 PPM and the Total Chlorine level should not be more than 1 PPM higher.  Using the pool with very high chlorine levels can be irritating.  The chlorine level will drop over time as the pool shock reacts with algae and debris.  Refer to other sections of the archives for more information.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/9/2003

 

Professional Pool Water Testing?

I OWN A RENTAL STORE AND JUST GOT STARTED SELLING POOLS, CHEMICALS AND SUPPLIES THIS SPRING.  IT HAS BEEN GOING GREAT EXCEPT THAT I AM USING LIQUID REAGENTS TO TEST EVERYONE'S WATER.  I DON'T HAVE THE SOPHISTICATED SYSTEM THAT THE ONES IN THE BIG CITY OF KANSAS CITY HAS.  MY STORE IS 50 MILES FROM THE CITY AND I'M TRYING TO GET ALL POOL CUSTOMERS, HERE IN RICHMOND AND LOCALLY, TO COME AND LET ME TEST THEIR WATER.  SO MY QUESTION IS ARE THE ONES UP IN THE CITY USING A WATER TEST SYSTEM THAT YOU POUR THE POOR WATER IN IT AND YOU GET A PRINTED READ OUT AND WHAT IS IT CALLED?  THANK YOU AND LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

JULIE R., RICHMOND, MO, 4/18/2004

Not quite as simple as pouring in some water!  They are probably using a variety of test equipment, some of which may be fairly automated.  The testing results are processed by some type of computer program.  If you would like to look into something that is highly automated, does all of the common tests and is simple to operate, I suggest that you go to www.lamotte.com  The LaMotte Water Link Express laboratory virtually eliminates all the measuring and is very fast, as well as accurate.  Software is available, for use with this laboratory, to help you draw the appropriate recommendations, from the data that is inputted.  And did I mention that you don't have to be a chemist?  Confidence in the testing procedure is a two-way street between the dealer and the consumer.  In addition, The LaMotte Co. has a locator, on their website, that will direct pool and spa owners to your location.  I hope that you'll find a product that suits the needs of your business and your customers.  Good luck.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/18/2004

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Automatic Water Analysis

I have recently opened a Pool & Spa Chemical Supply Shop in Perth Western Australia and require information and relative costs etc to test our customer's pool water samples as quickly and efficiently as possible and  is available to purchase from the USA.  I hope you will be able to assist.  Regards.

Brian Quinn,  Perth, Australia, 1/21/2004

There are several factors for you to consider as a pool professional dealer.  Speed:  during peak season, you want to move things along as much as possible.   Thoroughness and Accuracy:  you need to do all the important tests, when required, with suitable accuracy, from even a relatively new operator.  Cost:  speed and cost can go hand in hand, to a degree.  Simplicity:  keeping it uncomplicated by using dosed testing chemicals, disposable components and a minimum items that require rinsing and cleaning for each test.  Professionalism:  you need to use equipment that will instill confidence in the consumer as well as the water tester.  I suggest that you go to www.lamotte.com  There you will find information on an extensive line of professional pool water testing equipment, as well as costs and availability in your part of the world.  Automated is easily achieved - automatic is more difficult.  Your choice will be influenced by budget and needs.  You should be able to pick a water testing setup that meets your requirements.  Good luck on the venture.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 1/21/2004

 

Being Better Informed?

I just had to write to say I LOVE your website. It's keeping me sane in my world of three competing pool dealers, with conflicting advice on pool chemistry.  Now, if only their measurements would stop conflicting, I'd be home free.

C.P., 9/11/2007

Being better informed helps avoid falling victim to a dealer with the wrong information or test results.  Water chemistry is where it starts!  Some new testers are just available.  It is the LaMotte ColorQ Water Analyzer.  There are 5 different models to choose from:  one should be just what you need!   It includes everything that is needed.  All are simple to use, hand-held, all-digital, accurate and reliable, do all of the important tests, require no color matching or look up charts and are reasonably priced.  In the long run, being better informed will save you money, time and should minimize problems.  I'm glad to hear that this website has been helpful, as that is our goal.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 9/12/2007

ColorQ PRO 7
Water Analyzer

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Can Type Of Lighting Affect Readings?

I find the my pool water test readings, when taken at night, seem quite different.  By then the lights are turned on.  Is this possible?  Thanks

Ronald L., 7/1/2007

Definitely could be the problem.  Test strips and comparator colors can be influenced by lighting:  sodium vapor lights are probably the most troublesome, by fluorescent or dim lighting can be a factor.  It is best to read under bright natural light, without direct Sun exposure.  One way to avoid all of these problems is with the LaMotte ColorQ Water Analyzers.  There are several models and one would be right for your pool.  I hope that this will help provide more consistency in the testing.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 7/2/2007

 

Can't Add Enough Shock?

We have shocked several times - according to instructions. Then we double shocked. Then we double shocked 3 times in a row, 4 hours apart. Still zero free chlorine.   We are using a trichlor product. Now that we've dumped 40 lbs of shock and still have no free chlorine.  I'm getting very frustrated with "the professionals" at the pool place.  Do you have any ideas?  The test results are:  Free Chlorine 0, Total Chlorine 10, pH 7.7, No Algae, Clear Water, TA 116 PPM, Calcium Hardness 244.  Thank you in advance for your help. I really appreciate it.

Russell B., 6/2/2003

Your pool is about twice the size of a typical inground pool. So keep things in perspective. Still 40 pounds is a lot of shock and there is nothing in the water chemistry that points to anything suspicious.  Ordinarily, I would say that you haven't added enough shock to react with all of the organic demand. That still might be the case, however. Is there any sign of algae or slimy walls in the deep end? If so, you need to add shock until there is a stable reading for free chlorine. The fact the water is clear could mean that the test materials are not working properly or that you are just at the brink of maintaining a free chlorine reading. I suggest that you take a water sample, add a few more pounds of shock and circulate for an hour and resample the water. Have both sample tested for free chlorine, possibly at another dealer location. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/2/2003

Thanks very much.  My wife took another sample to the pool place today and they think we "broke through the wall" as both the total chlorine and the free chlorine now read 0. (Apparently that is a milestone.) The pH is a little off now so we are going to correct, then shock then retest.  There has been quite a bit of "material" that continues to fall out of the water - whether algae or whatever, even though the water is basically clear.  It is darkish and forms sort of wispy clump/clouds. Hopefully we are ok now.  Thanks very much for your quick response!  Regards.

Russell B., 6/2/2003

I was going to write you back because, after speaking with someone, I realized that there is another possibility. However, it does appear that you still have a lot of chlorine-consuming debris in the water. I assumed, that because your water was indicated as being clear, algae was not a factor. It now seems that you must keep adding shock until the Free Chlorine level rises and remains stable. That should coincide with removal of all the debris. Adding some "Blue Clarifier might help in debris removal. The other possibility was that the chlorine level was very high and DPD was being used to test for chlorine. DPD can "bleach out" in the presence of high chlorine levels and gives false low test results. If this is ever suspected as a possibility, you should test the water using a test strip. The test strips utilize Syringaldazine, instead of DPD, and are not subject to these high chlorine errors, such as I have described. If the free chlorine levels are found to be high, it may just be a matter of time and filtration, before the pool clears up.  I hope that your problems are on the way to being solved.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/2/2003

 

► Questionable CYA Test Results?

First of all, thank you for your recent advice.  Like many others that have come to rely on you, I feel I have finally found someone who can give me a credible answer to my questions/problems.   On 4 Feb I used a Stain remover to remove light brown stains in a portion of my fiberglass pool.   I followed the process and it worked as advertised.  However, I am concerned about some dramatic changes in the chemical balance of my Pool.   On 31 Jan, in preparation of my stain removal process, I had my water tested by a local Pool Company.   This test showed a CYA level @ 83 (OK for my area of the Country) and a TA reading of 114.  On 11 Feb, 3 days after completion of the stain removal process, I had my water tested at the same Pool Company.  This test showed my CYA level @ 35 and my TA level @ 152.  My question: Is it normal for a stain removal process to cause such a dramatic change in CYA and TA?

John G., 2/12/2008

Unless you replaced more than 1/2 of the water, the cyanuric acid results are questionable.  There is no way that it should drop from 83 to 35 PPM, without water replacement.  One of the numbers is wrong and I suspect the latter.  If that test result is wrong, the TA could be wrong, as well.  Some dealers use test strips, for testing, which are capable of providing a suitably accurate, but not precise test results.  Using a computer to read the test strip, does not necessarily provide greater accuracy.  This could be a case or dealer error or a bad water sample.  I would encourage you to become more self-sufficient, as it will save you money and possibly help you avoid problems.  The LaMotte ColorQ PRO 7 Water Analyzer performs 7 important pool steps, while eliminating color-matching, look up charts and guesswork.  And it is affordably priced!  I am  not sure what was done, in the way of stain treatment, but the pH have increased and. that would account for the higher TA, as it moves in the same direction as the pH.  To get a truer TA reading, subject 30% of the CYA reading, from the TA test result.  pH and TA are interrelated.  Adjust the pH to 7.2-7.6, as needed.  If the TA is under 80-120 PPM, add some TA Increaser (baking soda).  If the TA is 80-120 PPM, you're perfect.  If the TA is higher, you may not have to do anything.  There is no compelling reason to have to lower the TA, if the pH is in range and there is no sign of scaling or cloudy water.  If the calcium hardness is over 400 PPM, you might keep the pH closer to 7.2-7.4.  There's little point in trying to get both parameters in range, when circumstances and nature are conspiring against you.  I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 2/12/2008

 

Choosing A Test Kit?

I see a lot more of the test strips around these days.  I've never used them.  Are they reliable?

Valerie S., Coram, NY, 6/12/2003

Test strips have come a long way in terms of reliability, accuracy and the number of different tests that can be performed.  But, they are not all the same.  The technology behind test strips is not simply impregnating a paper with some chemicals.  Choose a brand that the dealer has confidence in.  Make sure that the Test Strips are protected against moisture.  While all manufacturers add a drying aid to the packaged strips, a better means of protection are the containers with a desiccant liner.  All of the test strips can test for Free Chlorine and that is an important advance.  This is the active germicidal form of chlorine and is a key test.  The older OTO test kits did not test for Free Chlorine, but tested for the less important Total Chlorine. The convenience and lack of liquid chemicals makes them a choice of growing popularity.  Glad to be of help.

Sincerely.   Alan Schuster, 6/12/2003

 

Trouble Dealing With The Colors?

My son has always tested our pool water, as I have trouble trying to distinguish some of  the colors.  Is there a simple way to test pool water without having to check colors?  Something affordably priced would be perfect.  This fall, he will be off to college and I'll be on my own.  Thanks for the help that your website provides.

Herb K., Sarasota, FL 2/16/2005

Pool dealers have been using colorimeters to electronically test water for years.  The problem is that this type of equipment is relatively expensive and is really only intended for high volume, in-store testing of pool or spa owner's water.  A new, reasonably priced product is available that utilizes a hand-held colorimeter.  The ColorQ Water Analyzer PRO 7 Water Analyzer measures Free & Total Chlorine, Bromine, pH and Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness and Cyanuric Acid.  It is done with a colorimeter and all you have to do is read the answers on the large, LCD display.  No colors to distinguish and no more guesswork.  Perfect for pool owners, pool servicemen, especially, those with color vision impairments.  For more information on The Hand-Held Pool & Spa ColorQ Water Analyzers, go to:  www.lamotte.com  The proper testing of pool water enhances the ownership experience, by helping to assure better water quality and sanitation.  I hope that I have been helpful and that this is a solution.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 2/17/2005

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Test Reading Differences?

My pool water is a little cloudy.  I tested the chlorine and pH. Chlorine was between 0.1 and 0.4 and the pH was right on. My chlorinator is on full.  I added 3 tablets, 3 days ago.  I took a sample of water into my local pool store and they found that the free chlorine was 0 and the total chlorine was 0.14.  Why would the home test kit show that chlorine was slightly low and the store test found 0?  They told me to add some liquid chlorine.  Is it possible that the chlorinator is not working properly? Are the chlorine tablets old?  They are from last season.  Why do I need to use liquid chlorine, when I have a chlorinator?  I thought the point of the chlorinator was so you would have to keep adding liquid chlorine.  Thanks.

Cindy, 6/6/2004

This is not uncommon, depending upon certain factors.  The reason being that the water sample was subject to sampling and storage errors, contamination in the container, storage in a hot car and the passage of time.  It is important to use a clean container, sample from below the surface, protect the sample from the effects of heat and sunlight and have it tested on a timely basis.  The difference in test reading is well within what one might expect.  If the store showed a higher chlorine level, that would be a different matter.  Of all the tests, chlorine is the one most affected by these factors.  There is probably nothing wrong with the chlorine tablets and they told you to add the liquid chlorine in order to quickly boost the free chlorine level.  I hope that I cleared up the mystery.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/7/2004

 

How Often To Test Pool Water?

I try and test the pH and chlorine at least every other day.  Is that often enough?  How often should I test for total alkalinity and chlorine stabilizer.  Thank you.

Austin H., Augusta, GA, 8/12/2003

Testing the pH and chlorine every other day is quite reasonable.  In addition, I would test at the first sign of a change in water quality or during periods of high bather demand.  The more important chlorine test is the Free Chlorine Test:  free chlorine is the active germicidal form.  The total alkalinity should be tested at the start of the season, whenever there are fluctuations in the pH and monthly during the season.  The chlorine stabilizer should be tested at the start of the season.  Unless the stabilizer level is approaching too high a value, once or twice a season is sufficient.  The balancing of the pool water chemistry will, in the long run, solve or avoid many problems.  I hope that I have been of assistance.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 8/12/2003

 

Testing For High Chlorine Levels?

First off, I think your site is great.  Next, my question:  My pool water is crystal clear but my OTO test for chlorine turned bright orange which I guess means the chlorine level is high.  Then I purchased a DPD test kit to test for Free chlorine.  The free chlorine tested at 5 PPM.  The total chlorine test was not much higher than 5 PPM.  Is my free chlorine level too high?  Do I need to do something to lower it?  There is no odor and my total chlorine level doesn't appear to be too high so I assume my combined chlorine level is not too high.  What can I do?

Carlos V., El Paso, Texas, 4/21/2005

It is hard to tell if your chlorine level is too high.  OTO and DPD are not very reliable at high levels, because the chlorine affects the test chemicals.  When using DPD, you should take the reading, as soon as possible, after adding the test chemical.   Otherwise, you may get a higher reading, as the test can start to register chloramines, if present.   A better means of testing higher chlorine levels is with Syringaldazine:  a chemical used in some test strips such as the LaMotte Insta-Test product.  You might stop adding chlorine and give it a day or so.  Otherwise, you could use a chlorine neutralizer product to quickly lower the level.  Free chlorine is always the more important test:  OTO is not used for this test.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/21/2005

 

Bleaching Effect On Test Strips?

I recently had the strong chlorine odor problem followed by a cool weather streak which lead me to leave me pool cover and neglect my normal maintenance  for about two weeks.    When I opened the cover, I found the pool to be cloudy and green.  I used algaecide and shock to resolve this and put chlorine tabs in the dispenser.  It took three days of shocking to clear up the water.   The chlorine reading is still so low it is not registering on the test strip.  I read that if there is too much chlorine in the water it will have a bleaching effect on the test strip, so I took a sample of the water and diluted it to see if I could obtain a reading.   The reading was still low.  Should I shock the pool again?

Suzanne B., 9/15/2006

Test strips, such as the LaMotte Insta Test strips are one of the best ways to measure high levels of chlorine.  The bleaching effect, that you are  mentioning, is more likely to happen with OTO or DPD testers.  I suggest that you add the liquid chlorine or quick dissolving shock, about a pound/gallon per 5,000 gallons, until the free chlorine level is over 5 PPM.  Don't drag it out!  The longer it takes, the more product will be required.  Keep it there until the problem is under control.  You have green water because the sanitizer level was inadequate and algae took hold.   Check the overall water chemistry as well.  Make sure that you are testing for FREE CHLORINE.  I hope that I have been helpful.  If so, please tell your friends about the website.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 9/15/2006

 

How Long Do Test Strips Last?

I have some test strips from last year.   Are they still good?

Mel. T., Rochester Hills, MI, 5/28/2004

Maybe and maybe not!  Most test strips have an expiration date on them.  If there is no expiration date on them, don't buy them again!  In addition to paying attention to the expiration date, you must make sure that the test strips have been stored away from heat, moisture and light.   Always reseal the container immediately after removing a test strip and NEVER REMOVE A TEST STRIP WITH WET FINGERS!  Moisture is the enemy of test strips and can destroy their reliability and reduce their shelf life, regardless of the expiration date.  Closing the container can help minimize the moisture problem.  Most strips come with a silica gel packet inside and this helps absorb some of the moisture.  Even better are the Test Strips packaged with a desiccant liner, as a means of moisture removal.  You know how the test strips have been stored, so use this information as a guide.  In the future, follow the recommendations, as to handling and storage between uses.  I hope that I was helpful.  Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/28/2004

 

Saturation Or Langelier Index?

Saturation index for pools?  Do you have any, where you can put the pool test results and gives you the answer?  Could you let me know?  That would be great.  Thanks.

Tony, 1/27/2005

There is a page on the website devoted to the calculation of the Langelier or Saturation Index.  Just click here.  I hope that the information will prove useful

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 1/27/2005

 

New Pool Owners?

Hi Alan. We recently bought a house with an inground gunite pool. We are having a problem with what I believe is mustard algae. After reading the questions on your website I am confused about free chlorine tests. We bought a test kit to test chlorine levels, but I do not know how to test for free chlorine. Please help!

No Name, 6/13/2004

I suspect that you are using a test kit with a color block for pH and Chlorine.  This would be an OTO test kit and it does not measure for Free Chlorine:  the active germicidal form of chlorine.  I suggest that you try using a test strips.  Test Strips such as the LaMotte Insta-Strips provide test for Free and Total Chlorine and give you a much better picture of the pool's state of sanitation.  The balancing of the pool water chemistry requires periodic testing and helps to minimize water quality problems.  For pool owners that prefer to avoiding having to differentiate slight color differences, the new ColorQ Water Analyzers are just what you need.  I hope that I have been helpful.  Enjoy the pool.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/13/2004

 

Time To Take Charge?

I have a new pool that was completed six weeks ago.  The pool is a 16,000 gallon in-ground gunite pool with an aggregate finish and a salt system in south Florida.  I had hired a pool professional to start up my pool and maintain it, since I was told that optimizing a new pool would be difficult.  However, after five weeks I noticed that the pool did not register any chlorine level and the pH was always above 8.2.  My pool professional indicated that my test strips were not accurate and that the pool was fine.  I then proceeded to have a sample analyzed by my local pool supply store and they concurred with my readings.  At the time of testing, the chlorine and free chlorine level was 0 ppm, chlorine stabilizer was 0 ppm, total alkalinity was 200, pH was 8.2, TDS was 0 and calcium hardness at 40.  They indicated that I needed to get the pH down or risk scaling.  Following their instructions, I added chlorine stabilizer, put my chlorine generator on boost mode for 24 hours and have added several gallons of muriatic acid (and fired my pool professional).  After 1 week, I have chorine levels around 3 ppm, pH has been ranging between 7.4 and 8.0, total alkalinity at 80.   In order to get the pH level down, I have been adding about a gallon of acid every other day (not sure if adding this level of acid is recommended or not).  My problem is my pool finish.  The bottom looks good; however, the walls seem to still have a lot of “paste” that has not wore off from daily brushing to expose the aggregate.  Additionally, when I run my hand along the walls they seem slimy.  The water has always appeared to be clear.  Any insights on what’s happening?

Mike T., Florida, 4/6/2007

Your "pool professional" was not very professional. and I have some doubts about the pool dealer. New gunite pools tend to have pH readings on the high side and the use of a salt chlorine generator only adds to the problem. Once the walls cure and the chemistry is optimized, it will level off. Your "pro" did not add stabilizer and that is why your reading is zero. Or is it? The pool store has your TDS at zero and that is impossible. It should be around 3000 PPM, in your case. A calcium hardness of 40 PPM is doubtful, as it is higher right out of your tap. The slimy feeling on the walls is an algal or bacterial slime and is the result of inadequate sanitation and/or circulation. It is time to take charge here and do some testing of your own!  I suggest using LaMotte Insta-Test strips: they are easy to use and provide the right kind of information. There are some "questionable" strips out there, just like there are some questionable " professionals."  You need to test for free chlorine and maintain a level of 1-3 PPM. With slime on the walls, boost the level to 5-10 PPM, in order to help destroy these deposits. Your pH should be maintained at 7.2-7.8 and adding acid is how it should be done. A low hardness can contribute to etching, which in turn will drive the pH up. Get the hardness to about 200 PPM. Because you have a salt chlorine generator, I would concentrate on the pH and not worry about the total alkalinity, unless the hardness is over 400 PPM. Make sure the salt level conforms to the manufacturer's recommendations. To help improve circulation you might consider adding The Circulator: circulation boosting device  Get the chemistry right and don't rely completely on the action of others. Be better informed. Things will improve.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/6/2007

What Levels Of Metals A Problem?

We are just finishing up a pool installation and they are getting ready to do the plaster coat.  What are the acceptable levels or thresholds for copper, iron and any other materials content in our well water, in order to avoid staining?  I want to buy the appropriate test kits from you and would like to know what levels of each would pose a concern for staining.

Joe G., 3/23/2007

Almost any level, that you can measure, can be a problem, with well water.  Certainly, 0.1 PPM would be a problem with iron and manganese.  If you use a prefilter, as the water is being added, you might spare yourself some of the problem.  I always suggest use of a metal treatment, when well water is involved.  MicroPure prefilters will remove particulated metals before they get into the pool.  I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/23/2007

 

► Biguanide Testing?

I have used a biguanide test kit with the dropper bottles and test strips.  I can't say that I like or feel confident about having to match the colors.  Is there any other way to do the testing?  Thanks for the help.

Brad M., Naples, FL, 2/6/2008

Good News!  The ColorQ Biguanide PRO 5 Water Analyzer is an all-digital, hand-held tester that performs tests for biguanide, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and biguanide shock.  There are no colors to match and no look-up charts.  It is an ideal tester for anyone with color matching difficulties.  And it is affordably priced and easy to use.  Seems to  be just what you are looking for.  I hope that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 2/7/2008

 

OTO Chlorine Test?

I have been using an OTO test for years.  It almost seemed to be the only test, when we first got a pool.  Today, I see more choices.  Are they better than OTO?  If so, why?  Appreciate your advice.  Thanks.

Colton T., Austin, TX, 5/12/2005

OTO was probably the first test for chlorine and, in those days, there was a lot less known about the chemistry of chlorine in swimming pools.  OTO measures Total Chlorine and that is not as important as Free Chlorine.  The newer DPD Test Kits and various types of Test Strips usually test for both Free and Total Chlorine.  This gives you a better picture of the sanitizer level and the water quality.  OTO test kits have had their day in the Sun and their use is on the decline.  The other kits are better, plain and simple.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/12/2005

 

What's A TDS Test?

My local pool dealer runs a TDS test every now and then.  Exactly, what is a TDS test?  Thanks.

Josh S., Phoenix, AZ, 10/1/2003

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) is a measurement of the total concentration of dissolved materials in the water.  It is expressed as PPM of sodium chloride (salt).  Soft water has a low TDS.  Hard water has a higher TDS.  Salt water has a very high TDS.  High TDS in swimming pools can lead to water quality problems.  Most vinyl pools and pools, that are winterized, never encounter a TDS problem.  In certain areas of the country, the source water is high in TDS and the pool water may benefit from monitoring.  TDS is usually measured with a TDS meter and is relatively easy to perform.  Many test meters, such as the one pictured to the right, also test for salt and other factors.  Pools utilizing a salt/chlorinator should use a meter that tests for salt and not just TDS. It is important to measure the salt content of the water, to assure optimum performance and longer cell life.  I hope that I've explained the TDS test successfully.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 10/1/2003

 

What Contributes To Rising TDS?

Does sodium bicarb raise TDS levels with fresh water?  I have gone from 320 TDS fresh water to 1300 TDS two months later.  Thanks.

Dave, 2/16/2007

Everything that dissolves in the water can contribute to the TDS: sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, muriatic acid, sodium bisulfate, cyanuric acid, chlorine, shock, metal treatments, etc.  It all gets measured as PPM of sodium chloride, in spite of being a varied mixture of salts.  One pound of dissolved salts will raise the TDS by about 12 PPM, in 10,000 gallons of water.  I hope that this has helped clear things up.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 2/16/2006

 

When To Replace A Test Kit?

How long can a pool test kit last?   Should it be replaced every year?  Thank you.

Carolynne D.,  Alpharetta, GA. 6/2/2006

It really depends upon the type of test kit and how and where it is stored between uses.  Those generalized recommendations to replace the test kits every year are well-intentioned.  Because so much depends upon the test readings and there is no simple, foolproof means for determining the accuracy of an older test kit, it is better to err on the side of caution and replace the test kit on a yearly basis.  Some common sense must be applied.  Test solutions, that do not look right, should be replaced regardless of their age!  All test solutions should be resealed after each use and stored away from moisture, heat and light.  Test strips usually have an expiration date.   However, if you remove the test strips with dripping wet fingers, the moisture may destroy their reliability and/or shorten their shelf life.  Make sure that you remove all test strips with dry fingers and that the container is resealed and stored away from moisture, heat and light.  Most test strips are packaged in  quantities that will last for about a season and, usually, need to be purchased season to season.   If you would like a better type of pool water tester, consider the ColorQ Water Analyzers.  These Colorimeter based testers are available in several models and require no color-matching or guesswork.  I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy the pool season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 6/2/2006

 

Testing For Salt?

My pool has a salt/chlorinator installed.  It required that I add salt to the water at the rate of 20 pounds per 1000 gallons of pool water.  I have to keep the salt at 2000-2500 PPM.  How often should I need to test the salt level?  Thank you.

Rick K., Ormand Beach, FL, 3/2/2005

In your part of the country the pools are open all year.  Yes, I am aware that only the "snow flakes" use the pool, in the winter, in your area!   This means that your water is not replaced or pumped out for winterizing.  I suggest that you test the salt level at the start of "your" swimming season.  I'm sure that you'll find it acceptable.  I suspect that you have a cartridge filter and, therefore, do not backwash.  In your case, the salt level will only drop due to water replacement or due to pump out because of excessive rainfall.  I suggest that, after periods of heavy rainfall, the salt level be tested to determine, if any, the need to add additional salt.  In addition, Test the water for salt, if the salt chlorinator is not producing the expected quantity of chlorine.  Test Meters are a simple way to  monitor the salt level.  Low salt levels can cause this to happen.  Otherwise, testing the salt level a few times a year should be adequate.  The overall pool water chemistry should be maintained, the same as any chlorine pool.  I hope that I have been of assistance.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/2/2005

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Salt Testing vs. TDS Testing?

Alan, excellent website!  Learned more in a few minutes on your page than in several weeks of general web surfing. Couple questions for you. We have a chlorine generator and love it. I use salt test strips to keep tabs on the salt level. It doesn't change much over the course of the (short ) swimming season. But, when I re open the pool in the spring, I have to add back a lot of water and, of course, salt. I have been adding the salt and using the test strips. Today I took a water sample in for analysis at a local pool store. My salt reading with the strips was about 2800 PPM. The store did not use test strips, but simply equated TDS to salt level and told me my salt level was actually 3100 PPM.  No real crisis here.  But is TDS really an accurate read on the salt level? I suspect this really depends on what else is in the water. Comments?  Second question. With all water parameters in balance I still seem to have to keep a close eye on pH and keep pulling it down on a weekly basis. It tends to drift up a lot. I have heard this is normal in a "salt water" pool. Why would chlorine from a generator have more effect on pH than chlorine pucks or other forms of pool chlorine? Are there pH reducers in the chlorine products that  reduce the pH rise in "normal" chlorine pools?

Jim C., Canada, 4/28/2005

TDS measurements include the salt content plus naturally occurring minerals, carbonates and bicarbonates, calcium hardness minerals, chlorine stabilizer and other pool chemicals.  These can easily add up to a few hundred PPM or more.  A salt test reading is always the more meaningful measurement, as it is what the operation of the salt chlorinator depends on.  Salt chlorinators tend to cause the pH to rise.  The reason is that alkaline materials are released, as the salt is converted into chlorine.  By comparison, trichlor tablets are acidic and tend to lower the pH.  I hope that I have been helpful.  Enjoy the season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/28/2005

 

Choosing A Salt Testing Meter?

Have an above ground swimming pool with a salt water chlorinator.  [Autopilot]  What salt water test METER should I consider and why?

Keith, 10/24/2006

Salt content is important!  Too little and not enough chlorine is produced.  Too much and the life of the cell can be shortened.  Your Autopilot unit can be used with up to 6000 PPM of salt without cell damage, but that is more than is recommended by the manufacturer.  There are two good choices LaMotte No. 1749 or LaMotte No. 1766.  The latter tests for pH, as well, and costs a bit more.  Either will serve your needs.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 10/24/2006

 

Action Based On Test Results?

Alan.  First of all I would like to commend you on your website and the information posted. The information is thorough and direct. I was informed last year by a pool professional friend of the family during the non summer months all that was needed for the pool was cleaning the filter and adding a bag of shock plus, once a week in addition to brushing the floor and walls.  However, I recently noticed some staining in our in ground pool and wanted to get your feedback prior to taking action. The stains appear yellowish-brownish in a pattern formation on the floor and steps area. The stains are very light but noticeable. When I took sample water to the local pool supply store for analysis, the rep told me that due to the levels of the chemicals in the water, that the best thing to do was to empty out the pool and start from scratch.  The water test results are as follows based on their tests:  Cyanuric Acid: 275, Chlorine: 10+, pH: 7.5, Copper: 0.08, Alkalinity: 200, Calcium: 500, T.D.S.: 1200, Iron: 0.  Your advice is greatly appreciated.  Best regards,
 
Sergio S., 5/23/2004

If your pool is gunite, which I suspect, draining is an option.  I never suggest draining a vinyl pool. because of liner shrinkage and possible structural problems.  The reason that water replacement was recommended was because of the high cyanuric acid level.  Water replacement is the only means of lowering the level and 275 PPM is grossly high.  Very high levels can interfere with the effectiveness of chlorine.  While some of the other test values are high, I cannot be sure of their relationship to the source water.  The stains could be the result of iron and other metals, even though the test results are negative.  If you drain the pool, have the tap water tested for metals and add a dose or two of a metal treatment, in any event.  The yellow-brown material could be early mustard algae and it will benefit from a water replacement.  If, by chance, the pool is vinyl, replace the pool one-two feet at a time.  Evaluate you use of stabilized chlorine.  If you are using trichlor tablets, do not use dichlor as a shock, inasmuch as it will speed up the rise in the cyanuric acid levels.  I hope that the information proves helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 5/24/2004

 

Free Chlorine Readings?

We have been enjoying our first summer with our above ground pool.  I hate cold water, so we try to keep the water pretty warm.  I noticed on the water test strips that the acceptable free chlorine level is higher for a spa than for a pool.  Is this because of the water temperature?  Should we keep our chlorine level higher in relation to the higher water temperature.  Thank you for your help.

Theresa P., 8/20/2003

Higher temperatures do make a difference, but there are other factors to be considered. Two people in a pool contribute just so much waste to the water.  The same two people in a spa contribute more waste products (because of the higher temperatures) and do it in less water.  In a small spa or pool, the sanitizer level can become depleted rather quickly.  It sounds like you are keeping things under control.  The most common recommendation for a swimming pool is 1-3 PPM of Free Chlorine.  Make sure that you maintain the overall water chemistry or balancing, as it helps avoid water quality problems.  Enjoy the summer.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 8/20/2003

 

Measuring Combined Chlorine?

I have a test kit that doesn't give very accurate results for combined chloramines testing .  Can you give me any help by suggesting a more accurate method of testing for this. Thank you kindly.

Darlene, 11/16/2004

Test kits do not measure combined chlorine, which includes chloramines.  To determine the combined chlorine, subtract the free chlorine reading from the total chlorine reading.  Not all testers perform both tests.  The LaMotte Insta-Test strips are an easy way to get this information.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 11/16/2004

 

Low Stabilizer Reading?

On our test strip it states that the stabilizer is low. Our pH, CHLORINE and ALKALINITY all read fine. Please advise what might need to be done. The water is fresh- 1 week old.  Thank you.

Jim M., 4.18.2007

Low levels of chlorine stabilizer will increase the loss of chlorine, due to the Sun's UV rays.  You need to add some chlorine stabilizer (cyanuric acid).  You did not provide the reading or how big your pool is.  In a 10,000 gallon pool, one pound of cyanuric acid will raise the level about 12 PPM.  That should help you figure out what needs to be added, based on the test lit recommendations.  If you are using stabilized chlorine, this reading will rise over time.  When it reaches 150 PPM, you should replace some of the water.  Want to avoid future buildup problems?  Have you ever considered a salt chlorine generator  No chlorine to buy, store or handle.  No buildup of stabilizer!  The LaMotte Insta-Test 5 does all of the important tests and would be a better choice, that the 3-test strip that you are using.  I hope that this information is helpful.

Sincerely..  Alan Schuster, 4/18/2007

 

Manganese Test Kit?

Hi, Alan, I have a pool service business on the east end of Long Island.  There is a manganese problem in some areas of the south shore.  Is there a simple test kit that I could use, in the field, to test for manganese.  It just might help solve a lot of problems for me.  Thanks.

Tommy C. Quogue, NY, 3/19/2004

There are compact and portable field test kits that are suitable for your needs.  Your customers will appreciate all the aggravation that your are helping them avoid.  LaMotte Company of Chestertown, MD can provide manganese test kits, as well as a variety of other pool water testing supplies and testers.  I hope that I have been helpful.  One more word of advice.  Add 1 dose of a quality mineral treatment product for each 0.5 PPM of manganese found.  This should provide an excess to help deal with other minerals that might, also, be present.  Have a good season.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 3/19/2004

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Using A Chlorine Neutralizer?

I have 2 different pH test kits. One recommends neutralizing chlorine prior to measuring pH while the other does not.  Obviously this results in very different pH readings.  Which method should be used in order to guide pH manipulation.  Thanks.

Tony, 11/22/2003

It would have been helpful to know whether you have a pool or spa.  Most phenol red solutions, but not necessarily all, have a chlorine neutralizer formulated into the product.  This is important in order to help protect the phenol red from being "bleached out" by high levels of chlorine or bromine.  Spas are more likely to be using bromine than are pools and the lack of a chlorine neutralizer can result in false high pH readings.  You should be able to get comparable readings, with either kit, by following the directions.  If there is an unreasonable difference, have the water tested by a pool or spa professional, in order to better determine the more accurate test kit.  I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 11/22/2003

 

Sampling - Testing Timeline?

My technicians are often ask by the customer to bring a water sample to our retail store and have it tested. The h/o will than call in for the results.  How long can a water sample taken from a pool sit before having it tested?

Cheri D., 4/3/2007

Chlorine would be the most sensitive of the parameters.  It will always be dropping and could be affected in a short time, depending on the quality of the water and the cleanliness of the container.  Keeping the sample in a hot vehicle or in sunlight will only cause degradation to occur more quickly.  Anything more than a few hours could be questionable.  The other parameters are not as affected and little difference should be seen, in a tightly sealed container.  Still, I suggest testing with a reasonably short time frame:  3-4 hours.  I hope this information helps you set a reasonable guideline.

Sincerely.  Alan Schuster, 4/2/2007

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