►
How Many Gallons In My Pool?
The pool, we
just ordered is a 21' round, above
ground pool. To make sure that we
properly approach the pool water
chemistry, we want to be certain of
the water capacity. Thank you.
Hank E., Toms River, NJ, 5/2/2007
You are better off with the correct
water volume, as it should help with
the chemical balancing. You failed
to include the depth, so you will
have to do some simple calculations.
Go to this page:
Calculating Pool Volume.
You'll find the simple calculations
for determining the water volume of
any type of swimming pool. Enjoy the
pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/2/2007
► Green Algae?
This is our
first year of pool ownership. The
pool is an 18' round, above ground
pool. We seem to have developed some
algae on one side of the pool. I use
a chlorine floating feeder, with 3"
tablets and have been very careful
about the pH, alkalinity and
stabilizer. I clean the cartridge
filter weekly and run it for 8 hours
a day. What went wrong? Please help
because I won't let the kids in the
water.
Barbara L., E. Northport, NY,
8/23/2012
You have the most common type of
swimming pool algae problem. It does
sound like you are taking good care
of the pool. Still, bad things can
happen to good pools! This is really
not that bad a problem - just an
inconvenience. Algae is always
present in swimming pool water. If
the conditions are right, it will
begin to grow. That means, if the
chlorine level has bottomed out
because there wasn't enough in the
water or the demands of the bathers
was just too high, algae can start
to grow. From your letter, I cannot
determine the actual cause, but I
can make an educated, insightful
guess. The chlorine
floater may not always be able to
supply all the chlorine that the
pool requires, because the tablets
are slow dissolving. Floaters are
popular with above ground pools, but
are not necessarily the best way to
add chlorine. It may be necessary to
supplement the chlorine floater, by
the addition of a quick dissolving
product: sodium dichlor, liquid
chlorine, lithium hypochlorite,
non-chlorine, shock, etc. This can
be used to give the chlorine a quick
boost, during those periods of high
bather usage: like when all the kids
are in the water for hours at a
time. Test the water for Free
Chlorine, several times a day, to
gauge the requirements of your pool,
during these periods of peak
activity. I suggest that you use an
algaecide to help prevent the growth
of algae. To get rid of the algae,
add 2 pounds of shock, per 5000
gallons of water. Circulate
continuously. Test the water for
Free Chlorine and keep the level at
2-3 PPM or higher, until the algae
is gone. Thereafter, resume normal
chlorination and filtration. Because
the algae formed on one side of the
pool, try and direct more water to
that area. Adding
The
Circulator - a circulation
booster - will help improve
circulation and sanitizing. Swimming
can resume, when normal chlorine
levels return. If the water is
cloudy, this can be due to dead
algae and organic debris: adding a
"Blue" Clarifier will help improve
the water clarity. To help maintain
better water clarity, in an ongoing
basis, the addition of a
Nano-Stick
Clarifier would be a positive
addition.
If
this website was helpful, in solving
your problem, please consider
joining our
E-Letter Mailing List.
You'll receive 1-2 E-Letters a
month, with helpful information, new
product updates, suggestions and
sale announcements. I hope that this
information will help to get the
kids back into the water. Glad to be
of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/23/2012
►
Round Or Oval Pool?
Hello, I came
upon your website while trying to
research some information regarding
the stability of oval above-ground
pool walls. I have heard in the past
the walls will be more unstable, and
more likely to collapse because of
the water pressure distribution, as
opposed to a more even distribution
of water in a round pool. Is this
true? Thank you
Sandy T., Kansas City, MO, 8/27/2010
What you are saying is true, based
up the physics involved. However,
manufacturers have taken this into
consideration when designing oval or
rectangular pools. Quality pools
have supporting structural members,
to keep the walls from bowing
outward. I hope that I have been
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/27/2010
►
What To Do About Using Well Water?
I am going to
be filling a new 12,000 gallon pool,
using well water, that I know
contains some iron. I am afraid of
stains that might result. I don't
have a water softener. Any good
suggestions? Thank you.
Barry G., Easton, PA, 7/1/2009
It does pay to plan ahead, in your
situation, to try to avoid common
Pool Well Water Problems. If you add the well water
thro
ugh a
METALTRAP Filter, the heavy
metals will be
permanently removed. When the pool
needs to be topped off, pass all the
water through the METALTRAP Filter.
Removing metals, as the pool fills
is the best insurance against future
problems. Remember, always use the
METALTRAP Filter to treat all new
water! There are chemicals means to
treat metal problems and/or remove
the stains they cause. Not all of
these chemicals are equally
effective, some are ineffective at
higher pH levels (over 7.8) and
others contain phosphates, which can
lead to other problems.
Liquid
METALTRAP is phosphate free and
works over the full pool pH range
and beyond. Adding this chemical can
help avoid staining and/or
discoloration. Good luck and I hope
that I've been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/1/2009
►
Vacuuming A Splasher Pool?
I have an
above ground pool that is a 10'
diameter round and is 2.5" deep. I
guess this is considered a splasher
pool. It has a filter pump system
that filters the water and is
chlorinated and I have been able to
keep the chemicals right for over a
month now. The problem we have is I
need a good vacuum for it. We live
in West Texas and our dirt is
smaller than sand and the vacuum
that I have (one that uses the
garden hose and a filter bag)
doesn't work. Do you recommend an
automatic cleaner/vacuum? How do I
get the dirt off the bottom of the
pool?
Farrah M., West Texas, 5/10/2011
The type of vacuum and bag, that you
are using, is intended to remove
coarse debris and not fine
particulates. Try using finer
material as a collection bag.
Another option would be to
disconnect the intake line, seal off
the opening in the wall and attach
the intake hose to a vacuum head and
pole. This way the dirt can be
removed by the filter. To do this
you may need some adaptors and an
extension hose. It may take some
tinkering, but should work. A better
option, for small pools, would be a
rechargeable,
hand-held
vacuum. They have a
self-contained filter and the
smaller models are frequently used
with spas and hot tubs. I hope that
I have been helpful. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/11/2011
►
Testing The Pool Water?
We just bought our first pool - a
12' x 24' above ground model. It is
being installed next week. Can you
suggest a good source of chemical
start up information? How about a
pool water tester? I have seen those
color-matching ones and would like
something else. Thanks for any help,
you can offer.
Jenna S., Cary, NC, 5/12/2011
Welcome to the world of backyard
swimming. You will find information
on maintaining the important pool
water parameters on the website
page:
Calculating Chemical Additions.
If you want to eliminate the
color-matching and avoid the
guesswork, the
ColorQ all-digital water analyzer
is what you're looking for. It is
easy-to-use and will do all the
tests you need.
I hope
that this information proves
helpful. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/13/2011
►
Have Pool Will Travel?
I live in the
North Texas area. I will be moving
to Canada (Toronto) in about 6
weeks. We purchased an above ground
24' pool last April (brand new). We
would like to take it with us. It is
only 6" in the ground. Can you give
me some tips on taking this pool
apart and preparing it for my move?
Thank-You.
Sharon G., Texas, 4/23/2004
Obviously, you should clean
everything, after it taken apart and
make sure that all the water is
drained. Empty and clean the filter.
The main problem is going to be the
liner. If it dries out, it will
shrink, making it
difficult-impossible to match up the
various cutouts. All I can suggest
is that you put some wet towels in
with the liner and seal everything
in plastic. If the liner stays
moist, you might get by. If not a
new replacement liner should be
readily available in Toronto. Good
luck with the move.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/23/2004
►
Inflatable Pool Air Leaks?
I have one of
those pools with an inflatable top
ring. Seems to have a leak and I am
slowly losing air. Any suggestions
about locating the leak and fixing
it? I appreciate your time and
effort.
Aimee, New Jersey 5/22/2005
Look for signs of bubbling, where
the ring is covered with water. That
will indicate the location. If you
don't see bubbling,
the leak is above the water level.
Get some swimming pool algaecide
that contains dimethyl ammonium
chloride. Make a solution of one
part algaecide and 3 parts water and
stir it up with a 1-2" brush so that
it lathers a bit. They use a
technique like this to find a leak
in a tire. You don't want to use
soap, because you don't want it to
end up in the pool water. Brush it
on the seams and other areas, until
you find the leak. Once found, clean
the area with rubbing alcohol and
allow to dry off. With this type of
thin walled pool, you cannot use a
traditional vinyl adhesive and
patch, as this can damage the vinyl.
Boxer Adhesives offers a
complete line of vinyl repair
products, including an adhesive
patch that is intended to be used
with pools just like yours. If
necessary, it can even be used under
water! I hope that this information
will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/22/2005
►
Problem Down Below?
WE HAVE A 18 INCH ABOVE GROUND POOL
AND NOW THE SAND HAS SHIFTED DUE TO
TREE ROOTS FROM 11 YEARS AGO
SINKING. WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO FIX
THIS PROBLEM?
Michele M., 5/11/2004
You have two choices. You could
drain the pool and make sure that
the liner remains wet as all times,
so as not to dry out and shrink. You
might have to do some disassembly to
move the pool, so that repairs to
the ground can be made. After
repairing the problem area, put
everything back in place and refill
the pool. The pool and liner are 11
years old. I'm not certain the liner
will survive. However, if the
current situation is something that
MUST be corrected, there is no
choice. Otherwise, I am inclined to
suggest that you wait until you're
ready to replace the liner. I hope
that it all works out.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/11/2004
► Pool Liner Replacement Type?
We bought our
house last year and the above ground
pool has been a problem since then.
After spending the entire summer and
too much money messing with the
chemical composition in the pool &
learning how to change the sand in
the filter, we thought we were done
all of our pool challenges, then
came the holes in the liner, (3) of
them. So here is my question, I am
replacing the liner because I made
the mistake of draining the pool and
leaving it empty for a few months. I
know this was bad. I am now looking
at buying the new liner, I have a j-
hook liner now, but in looking at
pricing, it seems that overlap
liners are much cheaper. Do you know
if I can buy an overlap liner and
use on my j-hook channel? Also do
you have any recommendations for
what chemicals I need to add after
it is filled? I live in Houston and
for some reason last year, I just
could not keep chlorine in the pool.
We have very hard water so I am
hoping that this will help in
keeping the chlorine in there, but
what else should I add? I was
spending around $100.00 a month in
chlorine, is this normal? Thanks so
much for any help you can offer.
Jeanette in Houston, 4/18/2004
A pool that utilizes an overlap
liner, has a top rail that covers
the vinyl. With a hung liner, such
as you have, the liner stops below
the rail. You can't simply use an
overlapping liner in a pool that
requires a beaded liner. My guess is
that you won't be
able to use that type of liner, but
check on the type of rail to be
certain. A $100.00 a month for
chlorine is way too high! The
question to be asked, is where is
all the chlorine going? Are there
kids that are urinating in the pool?
Is the whole neighborhood using the
pool? Is there algae growing and
causing the requirement for lots of
chlorine? Bad water chemistry? There
has to be an answer. Your
requirements should be far less that
that. Upon refilling, I suggest that
you start with a clean slate. Adjust
the water chemistry, pH, TA and
stabilizer, and keep tabs on the
pool usage and free chlorine
readings. The answer is somewhere.
One of the limitations of chlorine
is controllability. If you are using
a granular product, the level will
rise and fall, based on product
addition. If you are using a feeder,
it is not a simple matter to get
more chlorine quickly, as it is
supposed to be slow-dissolving. A
salt chlorine generator would
help solve the cost of chlorine
problem, after the initial
investment. In addition, it should
prolong the life of the liner and
give you better water quality. Your
sand filter may not be providing the
necessary level of filter
effectiveness. You might consider
replacing the sand with
ZeobriteXtreme: a sand filter
replacement media. It will provide
better water quality and is quite
modest in price. In any event, don't
backwash the sand filter unless the
pressure is too high, as frequent
backwashing is a mistake. I hope
that this year turns out better.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/18/2004
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►
Waterline Problems getting Worse?
Our above
ground pool is about 5 years old and
we see fading and discoloration
around the waterline area. It seems
worse on the side of the pool, that
gets the most Sunlight. We have
tried cleaners, vitamin C tablets
made into a paste, tile cleaners and
nothing makes a difference. It seems
to be getting worse. Is there
another solution, that you might
suggest?
Paul J., Cary, NC 8/30/2011
You pretty much have tried all that
I would have suggested. I believe
that what you are describing is the
vinyl being degraded by
the Sun's UV
rays. It is not reversible and will
only get worse with time, to the
point where the liner can become
brittle. However, there is a
solution. You can apply a
vinyl adhesive pool border to
create a new waterline. It will
restore the pool's new look, protect
the area from further UV damage and
add strength to the liner. It is
easy to apply and should last about
3 seasons. At that time, it can be
removed and another set applied. The
product is available in 6" and 9"
heights, each in 3 attractive
designs. The inks and adhesive have
been thoroughly tested, for this
application. Just lower the water to
a few inches below, where the new
liner will be installed, clean with
rubbing alcohol for good adhesion
and peel and stick. You will get
years more of life, from the
existing liner and not have to go
through the hassle of draining,
installing and adjusting the
chemistry. I have been selling it
for at least 7 years and the
feedback has been excellent. So
why not give the pool a makeover,
next spring? I hope that this
information is helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/31/2011
► Steel Or
Aluminum Pool?
Alan, I'm
looking into purchasing an
above-ground pool for our family.
What is better to buy, durability
wise, steel framed or aluminum?
Thanks!
Susan L., 3/31/2004
I am not the best person to answer
this question, inasmuch as I do not
have access to specific data.
However, I can provide some
anecdotal input. Steel is stronger
than aluminum, but strength is based
on fabrication and gage, as well.
Aluminum is more resistant to
corrosion. However, modern steel
products are treated to provide much
better corrosion resistance and
longevity. A lot has to do with how
the pool is cared for and
maintained. Good drainage around the
pool perimeter and protecting the
walls and liner are important
considerations. Good luck with your
decision.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/1/2004
►
Added Chlorine And Pool Turned
Rusty Color?
We had a 18'
pool installed and it took more than
a day to fill the pool. Everything
was OK, until I added some chlorine.
The pool turned an rusty-brown
color. We have a well and added a
bottle of some metal treatment, as
the pool was being filled, as per
the dealer's advice. Can we solve
this problem?
Janice H., North Haven, CT, 6/5/2009
Pools that turn amber to rusty,
brown or blackish, after addition of
chlorine or pH raising chemicals,
usually have iron and other heavy
metals present. This is especially
true, when well water is used.
Whatever you added was not enough.
If you had filtered the well water,
used to fill the pool, through a
METALTRAP
Filter, the heavy metals would
have been permanently removed. When
the pool needed to be topped off,
all the new well water could have
been passed through the METALTRAP
Filter, to prevent new additions of
metals. Removing metals, as the pool
fills is the best insurance against
future problems. There are chemicals
means to treat metal problems and/or
remove the stains they cause. Not
all of these chemicals are equally
effective, some are ineffective at
higher pH levels and others contain
phosphates, which can lead to other
problems.
Liquid METALTRAP is phosphate
free and works over the full pool pH
range and beyond. Adding this
chemical can help avoid staining
and/or discoloration. If staining
has occurred, it can be removed with
METALTRAP
Stain Remover. This 100%
ascorbic acid products helps to
reduce and solubilize heavy metals,
so that Liquid METALTRAP can keep
them in solution in a chelated
state, which is less colored and
more stable. Following up with a
recirculating treatment, using the
METALTRAP Filter can permanently
eliminate the metals. All you need
is a garden hose and a small pump to
do the recirculation. Good luck and
I hope that I've been helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/5/2009
► Need Better Circulation?
We have a
soft-sided, vinyl pool that holds
about 4000 gallons. Every time the
kids jump in, the pool clouds up. My
free and total chlorine and pH are
good. When I rinse the filter out it
washes out sort of dirt. I think the
problem is sediments on the bottom,
which cause cloudy water when
disturbed. The filter doesn't seem
to help with the sediment and my
vacuum (garden hose type) is
useless, for anything but leaves.
Got a good suggestion or two?
Mavis L. Columbia, SC, 6/1/2009
You have a filter that is barely
effective. When the kids use the
pool, they stir up silt that has
accumulated on the bottom. The
filter can remove only what enters
the system. By adding
The
Circulator, a circulation
boosting accessory, you can get more
of the silt removed and the water
will steadily improve. The
Circulator was originally designed
for inground and standard above
ground pools. However, now there is
an adaptor that allows it to be used
with soft-sided pools, from the
leading manufacturer. Adding a
weekly dose of a Blue Clarifier,
should help, as well. I have been
told that The Circulator can make a
huge improvement in water quality,
in pools like yours, in particular.
I hope that this information will
prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/1/2009
► Off On The Right Track?
Alan, I recently bought and
installed a small above ground pool
for my kids (15 ft diameter x 42"
deep) and filled it about 6 weeks
ago. I read all of the info on your
site and have been keeping the free
chlorine at 1-2ppm using a chlorine
"float" filled with Trichlor tablets
(I know about the float, but I had
to start somewhere-see below) and
shocking the pool every Monday (pool
gets most use on weekends). I run
the cartridge filter about 4 hours
in the morning and 4 hours later in
the afternoon on a timer and vacuum
1-2 times per week just to try to
keep the bottom mostly clean. I test
the water every couple of days just
to make sure the floater has about
the right amount of chlorine in it.
The floater seems kind of variable -
it's easy to have too much or not
enough chlorine in it, so I just
bought an automatic in-line
chlorinator and plan to install it
this weekend. I did add pH down once
and might have to again. Otherwise I
haven't really worried much about
the TA or the other measurements,
just chlorine and pH. Hope I'm not
missing something. The time to do
all this: less than 30 minutes per
week. The result so far: Crystal
clear water. No algae. No chlorine
smell. The water is just beautiful!
The kids and my wife think I'm some
sort of pool expert! I'm pretty sure
that my wife thought that we would
have pea soup within a matter of
weeks. Thanks for all the good info.
I really appreciate it! Best
regards.
Thomas. S., S. Pasadena, CA
8/28/2003
Glad to hear that everything is
going well for you. When using
trichlor tablets, it is normal for
the pH to drop. You mentioned adding
"pH down." Was that a typo? The
tablets used in chlorinators are
acidic and that frequently requires
additions of pH Increaser on a
regular basis. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/28/2003
►
Pad Or Hard Bottom?
What would be
best to put on the bottom of our
Above Ground Pool 24’, have heard
about a hard bottom along with the
Gorilla Pad?
L. S., 8/27/2007
A hard bottom would probably be
instead of a pad or on rough ground.
If you start with a smooth, level
base, a pad should be all you need.
Just make sure there are no erosion
issues to be concerned about. Enjoy
the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/28/2007
► Unsuitable Base?
Dear Alan, a
friend phoned and said she had
requested sand to be delivered and
the delivery was construction sand.
I told her she could not use it
because of the texture of it, i.e.
small pebbles in it. Wouldn't that
kind of sand cause holes in the
liner after water got in it and
people started walking around, or
would the weight of the water
possibly push the pebbles down
enough for the pool liner to be
smooth after filling it? I most
certainly agree with you about a
liner remaining empty for a while. I
wish I had a video of my family
trying to use a liner which had been
standing in an empty pool for about
three days. We tried every method
any of us could possibly think of.
Every time we would get it about
filled, the liner would leave the
wall. We placed drums filled with
water to try and keep the liner in
place. It could not be done. We
spent about three weeks of filling
and pushing liner, etc. I finally
had to buy a new liner. Just let
everyone know "never let your pool
remain empty" for any length of
time. Without sifting the
construction sand, are there any
suggestions for using construction
sand as the base for a pool? My
advice was "don't do it, but I am
not an expert. Thank you for your
reply. Sincerely.
Martha D., 6/21/2004
You and I are on the same page. If
they try and use that sand as a
base, it could lead to a problem.
The safe and smart thing to do is to
remove the sand and replace it with
a layer of suitable sand or
vermiculite. It sounds like you had
"fun" with the liner and you
probably didn't get as far as lining
up the cutouts for returns and
skimmers. Have a good summer.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/21/2004
► Losing The Minerals Battle?
We have a
vinyl pool that holds about 6000
gallons. We filled it with well
water and we use a paper filter
system. We filled it and we were
fighting hardness. We got that under
control. Recently, we have been
fighting very cloudy water that
settles down overnight and then I
vacuum the pool floor in the
morning. The floor looks very dirty
and you can see where you walk, and
where you vacuum I clean until the
cloudiness is so bad I can't see to
clean anymore. When I rinse the
filter out it washes out sort of
green/brown. I keep my pH about
7.6-7.8, although it does want to be
a little high sometimes. My chlorine
is also checked daily and added
accordingly. Alkalinity is about 90.
Please help if you can.
Nameless, 8/1/2007
You have a filter that is inherently
inefficient. To make matters worse,
you are using well water. This
sediment is probably
passing right through the filter.
There are accessories that you can
attach to the return line and could
help remove the silt and sediment,
that is passing through the filter.
This improvement, in the removal of
fine particles, and the maintaining
of proper chemistry should make a
big difference. Better filtration is
only part of the solution. Well
water can contain metals and
minerals of all sorts. Using the
METALTRAP
FILTER or the
PURESTART
PREFILTER can make a huge
difference. Even better would be the
METALTRAP
Dual-Cartridge Filter, with
replaceable cartridges it removes
fine sediments and dissolved heavy
metals. These products attach to a
garden hose and remove the
problem-causing metals, before they
get into the pool. If you simply
recirculate the water using a garden
hose and a small submersible pump,
you can slowly remove the metals
from the pool water. This is better
than adding chemicals, which
sometimes break down and allow a
return of the problem. Nothing beats
removing the source of the problem!
I hope that this information will be
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 8/1/2007
►
Needing A New Pool Wall?
Alan, need a
little help I was installing a new
liner in my 15' x 30' x 4' above
ground pool make unknown. When I
discovered my rolled wall was rotted
at the ground line and wanted to
change it while I'm right their but
I can't seem to find anyone who
sells walls they all want to sell me
a new pool. The wall is aluminum 46"
wide x 77' roughly. I will measure
it exactly, if I have a source for a
new wall. How about some help.
Thanks.
Louie T, 4/21/2003
Without a pool brand it is a bit
difficult. I suggest that you go to
the local dealers with a photo. One
of them might have sold this type of
pool. Good luck.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/21/2003
►
Scrubbed The Liner Too Much?
A roofing nail
somehow ended up in my pool, while a
new single roof was being installed.
I didn't notice it for at least a
few days, because the pool was not
being used. I add some metal remover
and it did not remove the stain. So
I tried to use a scrubbing pad to
remove the stain and ended up
scrubbing off some of the liner
print. Is there any product that can
be used to add some color back?
Thank you.
Jeff N., Beaufort, SC, 3/26/2010
There is nothing that will colorize
the area, that I know of. However,
you should be able to cover it over
with an
Underwater Pool Decal or a
Pool Graphic
Mat. They are available in
various sizes and designs. For
example you could use a Dolphin or
Turtle design and it would look like
it was part of the pool. In the
future, if you get a stain, try
using
METALTRAP Stain Remover and
Liquid
METALTRAP. I know that
combination would have removed the
stain, without any scrubbing.
Unfortunately, vinyl liner designs
are only printed on and cannot
withstand harsh scrubbing. I hope
that this information will be
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/27/2010
►
On The Level?
Hello, I
purchased a 10' round splasher pool,
is three feet tall, and the manual
that came with it says that I have
to place it in a leveled ground and
pour sand below the liner. The thing
is that I don't have ground to
level, I have a concrete patio with
a gradient of more or less 1.5" in
ten feet from one side to the other
in both directions. What do you
suggest? is it too much inclination?
In the manual says no more than an
inch. Also, do I have to put sand
below the liner or a plastic
sheeting will be fine? Thank You
Mary Jo from Houston, 3/13/2008
If you don't install an above ground
pool on level ground, you will be
putting extra stress on some of the
vertical supports and that may
impact your warranty. In addition,
the water level will not be on the
level! I suggest that you consider
the following. Make a square frame
of 12' lengths of pressure treated
2" X 6" lumber. Add sand or pool
base and level it out. Place the
pool on top of the level base and
fill it up. Afterwards, top off the
exposed sand with gravel, marble
chips or wood chips. If you place
the liner directly on the concrete
you will probably wear a hole in it.
I hope that it works out for you.
Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/13/2008
►
No Longer Level?
Our 24' round
above ground pool is 6 years old and
over the past few years we have
noticed the south end of the pool is
getting deeper (approx 2" difference
now) when we topped off the pool
with water. Do we basically have to
start over? What are your
recommendations for fixing this
problem? Sincerely.
Kurt, Illinois, 4/8/2004
Sounds like the ground has settled
over the course of the past 6 years.
Erosion or drainage could have
caused the problem, as well. In any
event, there is no solution, other
than properly preparing the site for
drainage and leveling it. Taking the
pool down could result in the liner
shrinking and it would be difficult
to get back in place. Make sure that
it doesn't dry out. If you do
nothing, you might risk some
structural damage. I suggest that
you seek the opinion of a local
dealer or installer, who might be
able to do an inspection. Good luck
and I hope that I have been of some
help.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/8/2004
►
Double Up The Liners?
Great site:
From Ottawa, Canada - Simple
question (probably know the answer),
but: can I just put a new liner over
the existing one in my 24' above
ground pool? Existing one is 14
years old and one small hole.
Thanks.
Greg, Ottawa, Canada, 5/3/2003
I would think that you are better
off removing the liner. You don't
want water collecting between the
two liners. It will also allow the
sand to be reshaped, if necessary.
Good drainage is important for a
number of reasons. Good luck with
the change and enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/3/2003
► Benefits Of A Main Drain?
I bought an
above ground pool and the installer
suggests a center drain. What are
the advantages or disadvantages to a
center drain. Thanks for your time
in this matter.
Charleen O., 3/24/2009
Main drains are not common, with
above ground pools. They can be
prone to leaks and can freeze, if
not winterized properly. On the plus
side, they do help improve
circulation and help remove
sediment. However, there is a
simple, affordable way to improve
circulation, enhance filtration and
eliminate the dead spots that favor
algae growth.
The
Circulator is a device that fits
into each return jets and greatly
improves circulation, heat
distribution and chemical
dispersing. Good luck with the new
pool and I hope that I have been
helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/24/2009
►
How Long Can My Pool Last?
My above
ground pool is three years old. It
has metal walls and supports - steel
I believe. How long should such a
pool last?
Phil K., Bloomfield, NJ, 7/23/2008
I am no expert on this subject, but
it will certainly last for many more
years. How well you care for the
above ground pool and the pool site
can play a role. Make sure that the
area around the pool is well
drained. All equipment should be
used and maintained according to the
manufacturer's instructions. Take
reasonable care to prevent damage to
the walls, structural members and
vinyl liner. Winterizing is very
important in your area, as
freeze-thaw damage can destroy or
damage the pool, equipment and
accessories. Proper winterizing
instructions can usually be provided
by your pool dealer and can help
protect your investment. Your pool
dealer should be able to give you a
better assessment, as to the
expected useful life of the pool. I
hope that you remain in the swim for
many, many, more years.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/24/2008
► Algaecide: To Use Or Not To
Use?
I have never
used an algaecide in my new above
ground pool and have had no problems
to date. My friends with pools, all
seem to use algaecides and chlorine.
Is it a good idea to use algaecide?
Just wondering.
Jeff E., Lakeland, NJ, 6/30/2004
The best way to use an algaecide is
to add it before you have a problem!
That way, it can help you avoid a
problem. Chlorine levels rise and
fall during the course of the day,
depending upon chemical additions
and bather usage. When the sanitizer
levels drops too low, algae can
begin to grow. If an algaecide is
present, it just might keep the
algae under control, until an
adequate sanitizer level is
restored. Both above ground and
inground pools should use
algaecides. However, the choices may
differ because of the materials of
construction. I hope that I have
been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 6/30/2004
►
Matter Of Size?
We just
purchased a 24' above ground pool
yesterday with installation
scheduled for May. We originally
started looking at a 30' above
ground and ended up purchasing the
24'. I am now feeling like we should
have gotten the larger pool since
the difference in price was only
$700 for so much more pool. I know
pool size is our own preference but
with so little difference in the
overall cost, should we have gone
with the 30' or even the 27' which
was only $400 more than the 24'. Is
maintenance on a 24' pool much
difference than a 30' ? Will there
be a huge cost difference in the
chemicals needed to maintain a 24'
over a 30' pool? The place we
purchased our pool from said we can
do a change order if we decide to go
with the 27' or the 30' but I am
just not sure what to do! Any advice
would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
J. C., Gilbertsville, PA, 3/15/2004
Obviously the larger pool will cost
more to operate. However, it is not
arithmetical. There will be a modest
additional cost for electricity, if
the pump is bigger or has to be
operated for additional amount of
time. If the same number of people
will be using the pool, whether it
is 24' or 30' the difference in
chemicals will not be considerable.
The amount of bather wastes will be
the same regardless of the size.
Some of the water balancing
chemicals are directly related to
pool volume, as are such things as
pool covers. This pool can last a
long time and I think that so long
as the costs are affordable, you
should go with the size that will
give your family the most pleasure.
Enjoy the pool!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/15/2004
►
Putting A Pool In The Ground?
Do you think
it is a good idea to put an above
ground pool totally in the ground?
Will it terminate my warranty? If it
can go in what would be the
recommended depth? Thanks for any
info you can give.
Adam, Toms River NJ, 2/25/2005
Not a good idea! It will subject the
pool to a situation for which it was
not designed. There could be
corrosion issues and it will surely
void the warranty. It could be
considered an inground pool and
could be subject to permit
requirements, code regulations and
taxed as an inground pool. I hope
that I filled in the blanks for you.
Sincerely, Alan Schuster, 2/26/2005
►
Worth Keeping?
We just moved
to a house that already has an above
ground pool. We know absolutely
nothing about pools, but we do know
that the liner has to be replaced.
What is the best liner to get? What
is the best way to install it? How
do we drain the pool? What should we
look for to gauge whether or not the
pool is worth keeping? Thanks.
David W., 4/14/2004
You need to do some homework. Above
ground pools can last for many
years, depending upon the
construction, the location and how
well it was maintained. Inspect the
pool and look for signs of corrosion
or deterioration. Liners can vary in
cost, depending upon the gauge of
the vinyl. Shop around and compare
replacement liner costs. This is
something that you could install
yourself or you could hire a company
to do the work. And while they are
on site, perhaps they could show you
how to operate and set up the
equipment. You could also compare
these costs to that of a new pool.
It's your decision. Good luck and if
you ever have a water chemistry
problem, I'll be here.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/14/2004
►
Empty The Pool Periodically?
I have a above
ground vinyl pool 13,600 gallons,
with a sand filter. Someone told me
I needed to completely drain my pool
every couple of years. Is this true?
I keep it well maintained and hardly
ever have a problem. Nothing but a
little cloudy water every now and
then. Usually use a clarifier and it
clears right up. Should pool water
be completely changed every couple
of years? Any help would be
appreciated, Thanks so much!
Sharon W., North Carolina, 5/23/2004
You do not have to empty your pool.
During the normal course of the
season, you will pump water out
to backwash a filter or vacuum to
waste. At season's end you could
pump out a third of the pool, as
part of winterizing.
Not really.
Between backwashing and lowering to
pool to winterize, you are doing
partial water replacements, every
season. Because of this,
there is no special need to replace
the water every few years. However,
if the cyanuric level rises too
high, it might be advisable to
replace some of the water. Even
under these circumstances, it is
safer and better to replace a foot
of water each week, until the level
is appropriately reduced. You will
get better results, from your sand
filter, if you switch to
ZeobriteXtreme. I hope that I
have been helpful Enjoy the season.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/24/2004
►
Draining Prior To Liner Change?
I want to
drain my above ground pool so I can
change the liner, how do I siphon
out the water to drain it?
Richard & Shari, 5/9/2004
You want to direct the water away
from the pool and to a well drained
area. This is important so that
you're not standing on water logged
ground, when the liner is to be
changed. Don't poke holes in the
liner until almost all the water is
out. You can create a siphon with a
garden hose or vacuum hose by
filling it with water. Keep one end
6 inches below the surface, cap the
other end with your hand and move it
to a level below the bottom of the
pool water level. Release the end
and the water should start flowing.
Move the other end to the bottom of
the pool. Flow rate will depend upon
the difference between the bottom of
the pool and the discharge end. The
discharge end has to be lower that
the water level at all times.
Another option would be to use a
submersible cover pump and a garden
hose. I hope that information helps
and enjoy the new look.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/9/2004
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