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"Above Ground Pools"
Solving and avoiding
common problems.
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Problems & Making Good Choices
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Above-Ground Pools are a very popular choice for a variety of reasons.
These pools come in a multitude of sizes and shapes to suit the space
requirements or budget. Above-ground pools are constructed from a variety
of materials. The quality above-ground pools should be expected to provide
many years of enjoyment. The constructed above ground pool are frequently
equipped with the same of filtration and sanitation systems and should be
able to provide ideal water quality. However, the least expensive types of
above ground pools can expect to difficulties in filtration, vacuuming and
maintaining proper pool chemistry. If problems arise, seek the advice of a
local pool professional, about possible equipment upgrades. Clicking
on the underlined
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►
Green Algae?
This is our first year of pool
ownership. The pool is an 18' round, above ground pool. We seem to have
developed some algae on one side of the pool. I use a chlorine floating feeder, with
3" tablets and have been very careful about the pH, alkalinity and stabilizer.
I clean the cartridge filter weekly and run it for 8 hours a day. What went
wrong? Please help because I won't let the kids in the water.
Barbara L., E. Northport, NY,
8/23/2009
You have the most common type of
swimming pool algae problem. It does sound like you are taking good care of the pool.
Still, bad things can happen to good pools! This is really not that bad
a problem - just an
inconvenience. Algae is always present in swimming pool water. If the
conditions are right, it will begin to grow. That means, if the chlorine level has
botto med out because there wasn't enough in the water or the demands of the bathers was
just too high, algae can start to grow. From your letter, I cannot determine the
actual cause, but I can make an educated, insightful guess.
The chlorine floater may
not always be able to supply all the chlorine that the pool requires, because the tablets
are slow dissolving. Floaters are popular with
above ground pools, but are not necessarily the best way to add
chlorine. It may be necessary to supplement the chlorine floater, by the
addition of a quick dissolving product: sodium dichlor, liquid chlorine, lithium
hypochlorite, non-chlorine, shock, etc. This can be used to give the chlorine a
quick boost, during those periods of high bather usage: like when all the kids are in
the water for hours at a time. Test the water for Free Chlorine, several times a
day, to gauge the requirements of your pool, during these periods of peak activity.
I suggest that you use an algaecide to help prevent the growth of algae. To get rid
of the algae, add 2 pounds of shock, per 5000 gallons of water. Circulate
continuously. Test the water for
Free
Chlorine and keep the level at 2-3 PPM or higher, until the algae is gone. Thereafter, resume
normal chlorination and filtration. Because the algae formed on one side of the
pool, try and direct more water to that area. Adding
The Circulator
- a circulation booster - will help improve circulation and sanitizing. Swimming can resume, when normal
chlorine levels return. If the water is cloudy, this can be due to dead algae and
organic debris: adding a "Blue" Clarifier will help improve the water
clarity. I hope that this information will help to get the kids back into the
water. Glad to be of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/23/2009
► Round Or Oval Pool?
Hello, I came upon your website while trying to
research some information regarding the stability of oval above-ground pool
walls. I have heard in the past the walls will be more unstable, and more
likely to collapse because of the water pressure distribution, as opposed to a
more even distribution of water in a round pool. Is this true? Thank
you
Sandy T.,
Kansas City, MO, 8/27/2010
What you
are saying is true, based up the physics involved. However, manufacturers
have taken this into consideration when designing oval or rectangular pools.
Quality pools have supporting structural members, to keep the walls from bowing
outward. I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/27/2010
► What To Do About
Using Well Water?
I am going to be filling a new
12,000 gallon pool, using well water, that I know contains some iron. I am
afraid of stains that might result. I don't have a water softener.
Any good suggestions? Thank you.
Barry G., Easton, PA, 7/1/2009
It does pay to plan ahead, in your situation.
If you add the well
water through a
METALTRAP filter, the heavy metals will be permanently removed.
When the
pool needs to be topped off, pass all the water through the METALTRAP. Removing
metals, as the pool fills is the best insurance against future problems.
Remember, always use the METALTRAP to treat all new water!
There
are chemicals means to treat metal problems and/or remove the stains they cause.
Not all of these chemicals are equally effective, some are ineffective at higher
pH levels (over 7.8) and others contain phosphates, which can lead to other problems.
Liquid METALTRAP
is phosphate free and works over the full pool pH range and beyond. Adding
this chemical can help avoid staining and/or discoloration. Good luck and I hope that I've been
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 7/1/2009
►
Vacuuming A
Splasher Pool?
I have an above ground pool that is a 10' diameter round and is 2.5"
deep. I guess this is considered a splasher pool. It has a filter
pump system that filters the water and is chlorinated and I have been able to
keep the chemicals right for over a month now. The problem we have is I
need a good vacuum for it. We live in West Texas and our dirt is smaller
than sand and the vacuum that I have (one that uses the garden hose and a
filter bag) doesn't work. Do you recommend an automatic cleaner/vacuum?
How do I get the dirt off the bottom of the pool?

Farrah M., West Texas, 5/10/2011
The type of
vacuum and bag, that you are using, is intended to remove coarse debris and not
fine particulates. Try using a finer material as a collection bag.
Another option would be to disconnect the intake line, seal off the opening in
the wall and attach the intake hose to a vacuum head and pole. This way
the dirt can be removed by the filter. To do this you may need some
adaptors and an extension hose. It may take some tinkering, but should
work. An
automatic pool cleaner is always a
good option! Another option would be a rechargeable, submersible
vacuum wand. They have a self-contained filter and more frequently used
with spas and hot tubs. I hope that I have been helpful. Good luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/11/2011
► Have Pool Will
Travel?
I live in the North Texas
area. I will be moving to Canada (Toronto) in about 6 weeks. We
purchased an above ground 24' pool last April (brand new). We would like to
take it with us. It is only 6" in the ground. Can you give me some
tips on taking this pool apart and preparing it for my move? Thank-You.
Sharon G., Texas, 4/23/2004
Obviously, you
should clean everything, after it taken apart and make sure that all the water
is drained. Empty and clean the filter. The main problem is going to
be the liner. If it dries out, it will shrink, making it
difficult-impossible to match up the various cutouts. All I can suggest is
that you put some wet towels in with the liner and seal everything in plastic.
If the liner stays moist, you might get by. If not a new replacement liner
should be readily available in Toronto. Good luck with the move.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/23/2004
►
Inflatable Pool Air
Leaks?
I have one of those pools with
an inflatable top ring. Seems to have a leak and I am slowly losing air.
Any suggestions about locating the leak and fixing it? I appreciate your
time and effort.
Aimee, New Jersey 5/22/2005
Look for signs
of bubbling, where the ring is covered with water. That will indicate the
location. If you don't see bubbling, the leak is above the water llevel.
Get some swimming pool algaecide that contains dimethyl ammonium chloride.
Make a solution of one part algaecide and 3 parts water and stir it up with a
1-2" brush so that it lathers a bit. They use a technique like this to
find a leak in a tire. You don't want
to use soap, because you don't want it to end up in the pool water. Brush
it on the seams and other areas, until you find the leak. Once found,
clean the area with rubbing alcohol and allow to dry off.
With this type of thin walled pool, you cannot use a
traditional vinyl adhesive and patch, as this can damage the vinyl.
Boxer Adhesives
offers a complete line of
vinyl
repair products, including an adhesive patch that is intended to be
used with pools just like yours. Visit them at
www.boxeradhesives.com
for more information. If necessary, it can even be used under water!
I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/22/2005
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► Problem Down Below?
WE HAVE A 18 INCH ABOVE GROUND
POOL AND NOW THE SAND HAS SHIFTED DUE TO TREE ROOTS FROM 11 YEARS AGO SINKING.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO FIX THIS PROBLEM?
Michele M., 5/11/2004
You have two
choices. You could drain the pool and make sure that the liner remains wet
as all times, so as not to dry out and shrink. You might have to do some
disassembly to move the pool, so that repairs to the ground can be made.
After repairing the problem area, put everything back in place and refill the
pool. The pool and liner are 11 years old. I'm not certain the liner
will survive. However, if the current situation is something that MUST be
corrected, there is no choice. Otherwise, I am inclined to suggest that
you wait until you're ready to replace the liner. I hope that it all works
out.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/11/2004
► Pool Liner Replacement
Type?
We bought our house last
year and the above ground pool has been a problem since then. After spending
the entire summer and too much money messing with the chemical composition in
the pool & learning how to change the sand in the filter, we thought we were
done all of our pool challenges, then came the holes in the liner, (3) of
them. So here is my question, I am replacing the liner because I made the
mistake of draining the pool and leaving it empty for a few months. I know
this was bad. I am now looking at buying the new liner, I have a j- hook
liner now, but in looking at pricing, it seems that overlap liners are much
cheaper. Do you know if I can buy an overlap liner and use on my j-hook
channel? Also do you have any recommendations for what chemicals I need to
add after it is filled? I live in Houston and for some reason last year, I
just could not keep chlorine in the pool. We have very hard water so I am
hoping that this will help in keeping the chlorine in there, but what else
should I add? I was spending around $100.00 a month in chlorine, is this
normal? Thanks so much for any help you can offer.
Jeanette in Houston,
4/18/2004
A pool that
utilizes an overlap liner, has a top rail that covers the vinyl. With a hung
liner, such as you have, the liner stops below the rail. You can't simply
use an overlapping liner in a pool that requires a beaded liner. My guess
is that you won't be able to use that type of liner, but check on the type of
rail to be certain. A $100.00 a month for chlorine is way too high! The
question to be asked, is where is all the chlorine going? Are there kids that
are urinating in the pool??? Is the whole neighborhood using the pool? Is
there algae growing and causing the requirement for lots of chlorine? Bad
water chemistry? There has to be an answer. Your requirements should be far
less that that. Upon refilling, I suggest that you start with a clean slate.
Adjust the water chemistry, pH, TA and stabilizer, and keep tabs on the pool
usage and free chlorine readings. The answer is somewhere. One of the
limitations of chlorine is controllability. If you are using a granular
product, the level will rise and fall, based on product addition. If you are
using a feeder, it is not a simple matter to get more chlorine quickly, as it is
supposed to be slow-dissolving. A
salt chlorinator would help solve
the cost of chlorine problem, after the initial investment. In addition, it
should prolong the life of the liner and give you better water quality.
Your sand filter may not be providing the necessary level of filter
effectiveness. You might consider replacing the sand with
ZeobriteXtreme:
a sand filter replacement media. It will provide better water
quality and is quite modest in price.
In any event, don't backwash the sand filter unless
the pressure is too high, as frequent backwashing is a mistake.
I hope that this year turns out better.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/18/2004
► Steel Or Aluminum
Pool?
Alan, I'm looking into
purchasing an above-ground pool for our family. What is better to buy,
durability wise, steel framed or aluminum? Thanks!
Susan L., 3/31/2004
I am not the best
person to answer this question, inasmuch as I do not have access to specific
data. However, I can provide some anecdotal input. Steel is stronger
than aluminum, but strength is based on fabrication and gage, as well.
Aluminum is more resistant to corrosion. However, modern steel products
are treated to provide much better corrosion resistance and longevity.
A
lot has to do with how the pool is cared for and maintained. Good drainage
around the pool perimeter and protecting the walls and liner are important
considerations. Good luck with your decision.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/1/2004
► Added Chlorine And
Pool Turned Rusty Color?
We had a 18' pool installed and
it took more than a day to fill the pool. Everything was OK, until I added
some chlorine. The pool turned an rusty-brown color. We have a well
and added a bottle of some metal treatment, as the pool was being filled, as per
the dealer's advice. Can we solve this problem?
Janice H., North Haven, CT,
6/5/2009
Pools that turn amber to rusty,
brown or blackish, after addition of chlorine or pH raising chemicals, usually
have iron and other heavy me tals
present. This is especially true, when well water is used. Whatever
you added was not enough. If you had filtered the well water, used
to fill the pool, through a
METALTRAP
filter, the heavy metals would have been permanently removed. When the
pool needed to be topped off, all the new well water could have been passed through the METALTRAP
Filter, to prevent new additions of metals. Removing
metals, as the pool fills is the best insurance against future problems.
There
are chemicals means to treat metal problems and/or remove the stains they cause.
Not all of these chemicals are equally effective, some are ineffective at higher
pH levels and others contain phosphates, which can lead to other problems.
Liquid METALTRAP
is phosphate free and works over the full pool pH range and beyond. Adding
this chemical can help avoid staining and/or discoloration. If staining
has occurred, it can be removed with
METALTRAP Stain Remover.
This 100% ascorbic acid products helps to reduce and solubilize heavy metals, so
that Liquid METALTRAP can keep them in solution in a chelated state, which is
less colored and more stable. Following up with a recirculating treatment,
using the METALTRAP Filter can permanently eliminate the metals. All you
need is a garden hose and a small pump to do the recirculation. Good luck and I hope that I've been
helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/5/2009
► Need Better
Circulation?
We have a soft-sided, vinyl pool that
holds about 4000 gallons. Every time the kids jump in, the pool clouds up.
My free and total chlorine and pH are good. When I rinse the
filter out it washes out sort of dirt. I think the problem is sediments on
the bottom, which cause cloudy water when disturbed. The filter doesn't
seem to help with the sediment and my vacuum (garden hose type) is useless, for
anything but leaves. Got a good suggestion or two?
Mavis L. Columbia, SC, 6/1/200
You have a
filter that is barely effective. When the kids use the pool, they stir up
silt that has accumulated on the bottom. The filter can remove only what
enters the system. By adding
The Circulator, a circulation
boosting accessory, you can get more of the silt removed and
the water will steadily improve. The Circulator was originally
designed for inground and standard above ground pools. However, now there
is an adaptor that allows it to be used with soft-sided pools, from the leading
manufacturer. Adding a weekly dose of a Blue Clarifier, should help,
as well. I have been told that The Circulator can make a huge improvement
in water quality, in pools like yours, in particular. I hope that this
information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/1/2009
► Off On The Right
Track?
Alan, I recently bought and
installed a small above ground pool for my kids (15 ft diameter x 42" deep) and
filled it about 6 weeks ago. I read all of the info on your site and have been
keeping the free chlorine at 1-2ppm using a chlorine "float" filled with
Trichlor tablets (I know about the float, but I had to start somewhere-see
below) and shocking the pool every Monday (pool gets most use on weekends). I
run the cartridge filter about 4 hours in the morning and 4 hours later in the
afternoon on a timer and vacuum 1-2 times per week just to try to keep the
bottom mostly clean. I test the water every couple of days just to make sure the
floater has about the right amount of chlorine in it. The floater seems kind of
variable - it's easy to have too much or not enough chlorine in it, so I just
bought an automatic in-line chlorinator and plan to install it this weekend. I
did add pH down once and might have to again. Otherwise I haven't really worried
much about the TA or the other measurements, just chlorine and pH. Hope I'm not
missing something. The time to do all this: less than 30 minutes per week. The
result so far: Crystal clear water. No algae. No chlorine smell. The water is
just beautiful! The kids and my wife think I'm some sort of pool expert!
I'm pretty sure that my wife thought that we would have pea soup within a matter
of weeks. Thanks for all the good info. I really appreciate it!
Best regards.
Thomas. S., S. Pasadena, CA
8/28/2003
Glad to
hear that everything is going well for you. When using trichlor tablets, it
is normal for the pH to drop. You mentioned adding "pH down." Was that a
typo? The tablets used in chlorinators are acidic and that
frequently requires additions of pH Increaser on a regular basis. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 8/28/2003
► Pad Or Hard
Bottom?
What would be best to put on
the bottom of our Above Ground Pool 24’, have heard about a hard bottom along
with the Gorilla Pad?
L. S.,
8/27/2007
A hard bottom
would probably be instead of a pad or on rough ground. If you start with a
smooth, level base, a pad should be all you need. Just make sure there are no
erosion issues to be concerned about. Enjoy the pool!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/28/2007
► Unsuitable
Base?
Dear Alan, a friend phoned and said she had
requested sand to be delivered and the delivery was construction sand. I
told her she could not use it because of the texture of it, i.e. small pebbles
in it. Wouldn't that kind of sand cause holes in the liner after water
got in it and people started walking around, or would the weight of the water
possibly push the pebbles down enough for the pool liner to be smooth after
filling it? I most certainly agree with you about a liner remaining
empty for a while. I wish I had a video of my family trying to use a
liner which had been standing in an empty pool for about three days. We
tried every method any of us could possibly think of. Every time we
would get it about filled, the liner would leave the wall. We placed
drums filled with water to try and keep the liner in place. It could not
be done. We spent about three weeks of filling and pushing liner, etc.
I finally had to buy a new liner. Just let everyone know "never let
your pool remain empty" for any length of time. Without
sifting the construction sand, are there any suggestions for using
construction sand as the base for a pool? My advice was "don't do
it, but I am not an expert. Thank you for your reply.
Sincerely.
Martha D., 6/21/2004
You and I are on
the same page. If they try and use that sand as a base, it could lead to a
problem. The safe and smart thing to do is to remove the sand and replace
it with a layer of suitable sand or vermiculite. It sounds like you had
"fun" with the liner and you probably didn't get as far as lining up
the cutouts for returns and skimmers. Have a good summer.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/21/2004
►
Losing The Minerals Battle?
We have a vinyl pool that
holds about 6000 gallons. We filled it with well water and we use a paper
filter system. We filled it and we were fighting hardness. We got that
under control. Recently, we have been fighting very cloudy water that settles
down overnight and then I vacuum the pool floor in the morning. The floor
looks very dirty and you can see where you walk, and where you vacuum I clean
until the cloudiness is so bad I can't see to clean anymore. When I rinse the
filter out it washes out sort of green/brown. I keep my pH about 7.6-7.8,
although it does want to be a little high sometimes. My chlorine is also
checked daily and added accordingly. Alkalinity is about 90. Please help
if you can.
Nameless, 8/1/2007
You have a
filter that is inherently inefficient. To make matters worse, you are using well
water. This sediment is probably passing right through the filter. There are
accessories that you can attach to the return line and could help remove
the silt and sediment, that is passing through the filter. This improvement, in the removal of fine particles,
and the maintaining of proper chemistry should make a big difference.
Better filtration is only part of the solution. Well water can
contain metals and minerals of all sorts. Using the
METALTRAP FILTER or the
PURESTART PREFILTER can make a huge
difference. These products attach to a garden hose and remove the
problem-causing metals, before they get into the pool. If you simply
recirculate the water using a garden hose and a small submersible pump, you can
slowly remove the metals from the pool water. This is better than adding
chemicals, which sometimes break down and allow a return of the problem.
Nothing beats removing the source of the problem!
I hope that this
information will be helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 8/1/2007
►
Needing A New
Pool Wall?
Alan, need a little help I was installing a new liner in my 15'
x 30' x 4' above ground pool make unknown. When I discovered my rolled
wall was rotted at the ground line and wanted to change it while I'm right their
but I can't seem to find anyone who sells walls they all want to sell me a new
pool. The wall is aluminum 46" wide x 77' roughly. I will measure it
exactly, if I have a source for a new wall. How about some help. Thanks
Louie T, 4/21/2003
Without a pool
brand it is a bit difficult. I suggest that you go to the local dealers
with a photo. One of them might have sold this type of pool. Good
luck.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/21/2003
►
Scrubbed The Liner Too Much?
A roofing
nail somehow ended up in my pool, while a new single roof was being installed.
I didn't notice it for at least a few days, because the pool was not being used.
I add some metal remover and it did not remove the stain. So I tried to
use a scrubbing pad to remove the stain and ended up scrubbing off some of the
liner print. Is there any product that
can be used to add some color back? Thank you.
Jeff N.,
Beaufort, SC, 3/26/2010
There is nothing that will colorize the area,
that I know of. However, you should be able to cover it over with an
Underwater Pool Decal.
They are available in various sizes and designs. For example you could use
a Dolphin or Turtle design and it would look like it was part of the pool.
In the future, if you get a stain, try using
METALTRAP Stain Remover and Liquid METALTRAP.
I know that combination would have removed the stain, without any scrubbing.
Unfortunately, vinyl liner designs are only printed on and cannot withstand
harsh scrubbing. I hope that this information will be helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/27/2010
►
On The Level?
Hello,
I purchased a 10' round splasher pool, is three feet tall, and the manual that
came with it says that I have to place it in a leveled ground and pour sand
below the liner. The thing is that I don't have ground to level, I have a
concrete patio with a gradient of more or less 1.5" in ten feet from one
side to the other in both directions. What do you suggest? is it too much
inclination? In the manual says no more than an inch. Also, do I have to
put sand below the liner or a plastic sheeting will be fine? Thank You
Mary Jo from Houston, 3/13/2003
If
you don't install an above ground pool on level ground, you will be putting extra stress on some of the
vertical supports and that may impact your warranty. In addition, the
water level will not be on the level! I suggest that you consider the
following. Make a square frame of 12' lengths of pressure treated 2"
X 6" lumber. Add sand or pool base and level it out. Place the
pool on top of the level base and fill it up. Afterwards, top off the
exposed sand with gravel, marble chips or wood chips. If you place the
liner directly on the concrete you will probably wear a hole in it. I hope
that it works out for you. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/13/2003
► No Longer Level?
Our 24' round above
ground pool is 6 years old and over the past few years we have noticed the
south end of the pool is getting deeper (approx 2" difference now) when we
topped off the pool with water. Do we basically have to start over? What are
your recommendations for fixing this problem? Sincerely.
Kurt, Illinois,
4/8/2004
Sounds like
the ground has settled over the course of the past 6 years. Erosion or
drainage could have caused the problem, as well. In any event, there is no
solution, other than properly preparing the site for drainage and leveling it.
Taking the pool down could result in the liner shrinking and it would be
difficult to get back in place. Make sure that it doesn't dry out.
If you do nothing, you might risk some structural damage. I suggest that
you seek the opinion of a local dealer or installer, who might be able to do an
inspection. Good luck and I hope that I have been of some help.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/8/2004
►
Thank You!
I recently bought my first pool. It's 2400 gals and mostly for my 7
year old daughter and her neighborhood friends. I have learned everything I need to know
from your site and can't thank you enough! I don't even have a question after reading
through your answers to others. I feel as though I've gotten a solid education in pool
maintenance in one day, as well as an excellent problem-solver and reference for answers to those unexpected
situations. I sincerely hope that you enjoy your work. You are doing a great service to
others!
Heather M., Barrington, NH,
6/1/2004
Thank you for your gracious
comments. Enjoy the summer!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/1/2004
►
Double Up The Liners?
Great site: From Ottawa,
Canada - Simple question (probably know the answer), but: can I just put a new
liner over the existing one in my 24' above ground pool? Existing one is
14 years old and one small hole. Thanks.
Greg, Ottawa, Canada,
5/3/2003
I would think that you are
better off removing the liner. You don't want water collecting between the
two liners. It will also allow the sand to be reshaped, if necessary. Good drainage is important for a number of reasons. Good
luck with the change and enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/3/2003
► Benefits Of A Main
Drain?
I bought an above ground pool
and the installer suggests a center drain. What are the advantages or
disadvantages to a center drain. Thanks for your time in this matter.
Charleen O., 3/24/2009
Main
drains are not common, with above ground pools. They can be prone to leaks
and can freeze, if not winterized properly. On the plus side, they do help
improve circulation and help remove sediment.
However, there is a simple, affordable way to improve
circulation, enhance filtration and eliminate the dead spots that favor algae
growth.
The Circulator
is a device that fits into each return jets and greatly improves circulation,
heat distribution and chemical dispersing.
Good luck with the new pool and I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/24/2009
►
How Long Can My Pool Last?
My above ground pool is three
years old. It has metal walls and supports - steel I believe. How
long should such a pool last?
Phil K., Bloomfield, NJ,
7/23/2003
I am no expert on this
subject, but it will certainly last for many more years. How well you care
for the above ground pool
and the
pool site can play a role. Make sure that the area around the pool is well
drained. All equipment should be used and maintained according to the
manufacturer's instructions. Take reasonable care to prevent damage
to the walls, structural members and vinyl liner. Winterizing is very
important in your area, as freeze-thaw damage can destroy or damage the pool,
equipment and accessories. Proper winterizing instructions can usually be
provided by your pool dealer and can help protect your investment.
Your
pool dealer should be able to give you a better assessment, as to the expected
useful life of the pool.
I hope that you remain in the swim for
many, many, more years.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 7/24/2003
►
Algaecide:
To Use Or Not To Use?
I have never used an algaecide in my
new above ground pool and have had no problems to date. My friends
with pools, all seem to use algaecides and chlorine. Is it a good idea to
use algaecide? Just wondering.
Jeff E., Lakeland, NJ,
6/30/2004
The best
way to use an algaecide is to add it before you have a problem!
That way, it can help you avoid a problem. Chlorine levels rise and fall
during the course of the day, depending upon chemical additions and bather
usage. When the sanitizer levels drops too low, algae can begin to
grow. If an algaecide is present, it just might keep the algae under
control, until an adequate sanitizer level is restored. Both above ground
and inground pools should use algaecides. However, the choices may differ
because of the materials of construction. I hope that
I have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 6/30/2004
► Matter Of Size?
We just purchased a 24' above ground pool yesterday with installation scheduled
for May. We originally started looking at a 30' above ground and ended up
purchasing the 24'. I am now feeling like we should have gotten the larger
pool since the difference in price was only $700 for so much more pool. I
know pool size is our own preference but with so little difference in the
overall cost, should we have gone with the 30' or even the 27' which was only
$400 more than the 24'. Is maintenance on a 24' pool much difference than a
30' ? Will there be a huge cost difference in the chemicals needed to
maintain a 24' over a 30' pool? The place we purchased our pool from said we
can do a change order if we decide to go with the 27' or the 30' but I am just
not sure what to do! Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
J. C., Gilbertsville, PA,
3/15/2004
Obviously the
larger pool will cost more to operate. However, it is not arithmetical.
There will be a modest additional cost for electricity, if the pump is bigger or
has to be operated for additional amount of time. If the same number of
people will be using the pool, whether it is 24' or 30' the difference in
chemicals will not be considerable. The amount of bather wastes will be
the same regardless of the size. Some of the water balancing chemicals are
directly related to pool volume, as are such things as pool covers. This
pool can last a long time and I think that so long as the costs are affordable,
you should go with the size that will give your family the most pleasure.
Enjoy the pool!
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/15/2004
► What's A Pole Pool?
I have seen in catalogs and on
websites that along with round and oval above ground pools, it also lists sizes
of pole pools and slim style pools. What are they referring to? Thanks.
Lisa Y., 3/19/2004
A "pole pool" is
a specific type of above ground pool that is designed to fit into smaller,
narrower areas and to require less yard space. Rectangular or elongated
oval shaped looks require outriggers or structural members to prevent the walls
from splaying outward. A "pole pool" does this without outriggers.
As part of the structure, a pole has been added to the center of both long sides
and a volley ball net is strung between them. This provides structural
integrity and prevents the walls from splaying outward. It provides a
source of entertainment, as well. I hope that I have helped with the decision
making process. Enjoy the pool.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/20/2004
► Putting A Pool In
The Ground?
Do you think it is a good idea
to put an above ground pool totally in the ground? Will it terminate my
warranty? If it can go in what would be the recommended depth?
Thanks for any info you can give.
Adam, Toms River NJ, 2/25/2005
Not a good
idea! It will subject the pool to a situation for which it was not
designed. There could be corrosion issues and it will surely void the
warranty. It could be considered an inground pool and could be subject to permit requirements, code regulations
and taxed as an inground pool. I hope that I filled in the blanks for you.
Sincerely,
Alan Schuster, 2/26/2005
► Worth Keeping?
We just moved to a house
that already has an above ground pool. We know absolutely nothing about
pools, but we do know that the liner has to be replaced. What is the best
liner to get? What is the best way to install it? How do we drain the
pool? What should we look for to gauge whether or not the pool is worth
keeping? Thanks.
David W., 4/14/2004
You need to do
some homework. Above ground pools can last for many years, depending upon
the construction, the location and how well it was maintained. Inspect the
pool and look for signs of corrosion or deterioration. Liners can vary in
cost, depending upon the gauge of the vinyl. Shop around and compare
replacement liner costs. This is something that you could install yourself
or you could hire a company to do the work. And while they are on site,
perhaps they could show you how to operate and set up the equipment. You
could also compare these costs to that of a new pool. It's your decision.
Good luck and if you ever have a water chemistry problem, I'll be here.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/14/2004
► Empty The
Pool Periodically? I have a above ground vinyl
pool 13,600 gallons. Someone told me I needed to completely drain my pool
every couple of years. Is this true? I keep it well maintained and hardly ever
have a problem. Nothing but a little cloudy water every now and then. Usually
use a clarifier and it clears right up. Should pool water be completely
changed every couple of years? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks so
much! Sharon W., North Carolina,
5/23/2004
You do not
have to empty your pool. During the normal course of the season, you will
pump water out to backwash a filter or vacuum to waste. At season's end
you could pump out a third of the pool, as part of winterizing. Because of
this, there is no special need to replace the water every few years.
However, if the cyanuric level rises too high, it might be advisable to replace
some of the water. Even under these circumstances, it is safer and better to replace a
foot of water each week, until the level is appropriately reduced. I hope
that I have been helpful Enjoy the season.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/24/2004
► Draining Prior To
Liner Change?
I want to drain my above
ground pool so I can change the liner, how do I siphon out the water to drain
it?
Richard & Shari, 5/9/2004
You want to direct the water away from the pool and to a well drained area.
This is important so that you're not standing on water logged ground, when the
liner is to be changed. Don't poke holes in the liner until almost all the
water is out. You can create a siphon with a garden hose or vacuum hose
by filling it with water. Keep one end 6 inches below the surface, cap the
other end with your hand and move it to a level below the bottom of the pool
water level. Release the end and the water should start flowing. Move the
other end to the bottom of the pool. Flow rate will depend upon the
difference between the bottom of the pool and the discharge end. The
discharge end has to be lower that the water level at all times. Another
option would be to use a submersible cover pump and a garden hose. I
hope that information helps and enjoy the new look.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 5/9/2004
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