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Solving Problems & Making Choices
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Scroll down to browse
through some archived SWIMMING POOL questions and answers.
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every page, for additional information.
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Fiberglass
pools are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, depths and configurations and
can be accessorized with a full range of convenience features.
Different geographic locations and water source qualities can produce varying
maintenance requirements. Generally speaking fiberglass pools are more
chemically inert and have less interaction with the water chemistry than gunite
pools. The periodic addition of a metal treatment can help protect
the appearance of the fiberglass.
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More information about Fiberglass Pools can be found on the
Viking Pools, Inc. Preview Page in the "Pools
& Equipment" Product Information Section. Links are available to
connect you to their website. |
► Fiberglass Or Gunite
Pool?
Hi Alan, my wife and I
bought a home outside of Tampa, Florida this summer and we've been trying to
research which type of pool would be best. According to the fiberglass
Salesman, his pool will require less chemicals and electricity (because the
pump wouldn't run as much). In addition he said that the shell would not break
down over time. He also stressed that a gunite pool would require periodic
acid washing (5-7 years) and other costly but routine repairs. When we asked
the gunite Salesman about fiberglass pools all he did was laugh. Note: Even if
we end up buying a gunite pool, it will not be from THAT salesman/company.
Thank you for your assistance.
Lewis G., Tampa, FL, 1/2/2004
Great salesman! It
is true that gunite pools will require periodic refinishing or a cid washing.
In addition, there is more interaction between the water and the gunite pool
surface -- especially initially until an chemical equilibrium is reached.
Maintaining the chemistry in a
fiberglass pool should be easier.
The smooth surface should make algae control and pool vacuuming easier.
Gunite pools can stain
or crack, but these can be corrected or repaired.
Refinishing can give the gunite pool a whole new look, but it costs. A gunite pool allows the
benefit of infinite variation of size shape and color. I wouldn't give much weight to the
filtration savings.
Some of the newer alternative sanitizing systems will require that the filter be
operated for adequate or minimum periods of time. This is a big decision.
Over the life of the pool, the cost of maintenance should be factored in, as
well. I suggest that you consider cost and aesthetics, but go with
the product that strikes your fancy. For more information on Fiberglass
Pools go to:
www.vikingpools.net Good luck and I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/2/2004
► Vinyl Or Fiberglass Pool?
We are trying to decide on a vinyl or a fiberglass pool.
Size is no issue, as we are looking for something relatively simple: about
14' X 28'. What concerns us most is the appearance and the maintenance.
We have ruled out gunite - been there and done that! Thanks for the
opportunity to ask a question.
Bethany K., NJ, 3/20/2004
Both
fiberglass and vinyl inground pools
can look great and provide many years of service. Both are relatively
inert to chemicals and have no effect upon the pH, total alkalinity or calcium
hardness level. Care must be taken avoid having chlorine products contact
vinyl liners. Fiberglass is less prone to fading over time. To help
preserve the appearance of fiberglass, it is suggested that a metal treatment be
periodically added to complex any metals present in the water. In areas
where minerals are a potential problem, this is good advice for pools of all
types. In the final analysis, the choice is yours to make. You should go with the
product that suits your tastes and is within your budget. Expect to pay more for a fiberglass pool. It is always a good idea
to check the dealer's track record and to see some completed pools. Good
luck with the pool.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/21/2004
►
Exposed Aggregate or
Fiberglass?
Dear Alan, could you give a little insight and comparison between a
fiberglass pool surface and an exposed aggregate. So far, it seems like
the most reliable and smooth finish is the fiberglass.
However I am concerned about the fiberglass dust that will be generated during
the installation. How much of a problem is it and can it be
effectively eliminated after installation? Once the fiberglass surface is
installed, can erosion and cracking occur causing particulates to be released? Also,
do you know what the best quality resins would be for the fiberglass? The
quartz/plaster composite seems also to be durable but will porosity be a problem
so that algae build up will occur? Thank you for your time. I
would greatly appreciate any information you
can provide. Sincerely.
Billie A., 4/22/2003
Fiberglass pools are very attractive and
the surface is smooth. That can make control of algae easier and vacuuming
less of a chore. On the other hand, exposed aggregate is somewhat rough
and can harbor algae. However, I am not sure that the algae consideration
is important, if the pool is properly maintained. Do you want a
smooth finish or a textured look? There are pros and cons on both sides.
Your concern about fiberglass fibers is understandable, but the fiberglass
products, used today, have coatings that are quite long lasting.
There are some types of aggregate finish that are smoother, less prone to chemical problems and capable of being used to
produce unique looking finishes. I suggest that you discuss this with
local contractors, as they have the practical experience. Ask for the
names of people with recent installations. Do the same with exposed
aggregate.
Sincerely. Alan
Schuster, 4/23/2003
►
How Much Calcium Hardness?
It seems like your are only one who can answer my questions.
I need to add calcium chloride to my pool. My pool place says to mix it with
water but on the package it says not to mix with water just to broadcast it over
the pool, what do you recommend?
Everyone says something different. The man from the fiberglass pool
company said my hardness should be 350. I think this is high. don't you?
Edith B., 4/24/2008
I have
never heard of anyone recommending that it be dissolved. Usually there are
large amounts involved. It is quite soluble and will not cause damage, if
it should contact the bottom. A gunite pool needs a hardness of 150-200 PPM
and vinyl or fiberglass only need 80 PPM as a minimum and 150 PPM max. I
suggest that you not add more that this.
At 350 PPM, you are close to scale forming
conditions. If your pH should rise above 7.8 or the TA above 150, scale
formation could occur. I checked with a leading manufacturer of fiberglass
pools and their suggested range is 120-150 PPM. I always felt the range for
a vinyl lined pool should be 80-200 PPM and there is no need to raise
something from the 80's anything higher. A
fiberglass pool,
like a vinyl-lined pool, does not contain masonry materials in the walls.
Up to 400 PPM, usually does not cause clarity or scaling, so long as the pH
and TA are optimum. Metals such as copper, which is used as an algaecide,
added by some mineral sanitizers and ionizers or results from heater
corrosion or natural sources, can form dark stains in any type of pool, with
high calcium hardness. That's another reason to avoid calcium hardness
levels, as high as 350 PPM. I hope that this clears things up and
keeps it that way.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/24/2008
► New Coping?
We have a fiberglass pool which is in great
shape, but what is outside is falling apart. We have a wooden deck right
up top the pool. There is only a frame of wood around the pool. No
coping!!! All the decking is coming out and a new surface put down.
Do you think it will be a problem, if stone coping is used, in place of the
wood?
Walter H., Toms River, NJ, 3/23/2005
This should not be a
problem, as
fiberglass pools are commonly finished with a stone coping.
Visit
www.federalstone.com
for some information and photos of some completed pools. Federal Stone
Industries makes a
stone coping that even
provides a higher degree of safety. I hope that this information will
prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/23/2005
► Pool Sanitizer Choice?
We are planning to have a fiberglass pool installed in late
spring. There seems to be many ways to sanitize the pool. Is there a
"best" way for a fiberglass pool or some that are not as good? Thanks for
the opportunity to ask a question.
Greg M. Mobile, AL, 4/2/2005
You're right there are a lot of choices! Because
fiberglass pools are so non-porous metal stains can show up, especially if well water
or water containing heavy metal is used. To help avoid this possibility,
it is always a good idea to add a metal treatment as the pool is being filled.
This advice applies to all types of pools, if metals are known to be present. A
maintenance dose of metal treatment should be added monthly and prior to the
addition of new water. The addition of the metal treatment can interfere
with the performance of certain types of sanitizers such as, ionizers,
some
mineral sanitizers, copper-oxidation, and copper algaecide. Fortunately,
there are lots of other good choices. You can use chlorine,
bromine, a
salt
chlorine generator,
an ozonator or a
ultraviolet sanitizer. Sometimes using a combination
produces even better results with less effort. I hope that this
information will help get you off to a good start. Enjoy the pool!
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
4/2/2005
► Painting Or
Refinishing The Pool?
Our fiberglass pool is showing its age. The
surface has become stained and is very dull. We are either going to have
it refinished or painted. Will painting hold up? Will I still have
stains to deal with, as we do have well water? I want to make it easier
for myself. Thanks for the help.
George, Sanford, NC, 1/30/2006
Painting the
fiberglass pool, with the right product and in
the proper manner,
can make things easier down the road.
There should be less staining and the water chemistry should be easier to
maintain.
Ultra Poly One Coat is a long lasting,
durable epoxy hybrid coating that is available in several colors. It is
something worth considering. For more information go to:
www.polysolutionsinc.com I
hope that information will help your with the decision making.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 1/31/2006
► Indoor Fiberglass Pool Sanitation?
Alan, I've almost gone through every
aspect of your website & have learned a great deal on what I hope to be a fun
filled future as a pool owner. I'm in the process of building a new home with
an inground, indoor fiberglass pool. The pool will be in its own walled
in environment with a dehumidifying heating system. I've read somewhere that
chlorine shouldn't be used as a sanitizer for an indoor pool because the
byproducts can be carcinogenic. Can you verify this for me? My hope was to use
a salt chlorine generator but now I'm having second thoughts. Are there any
other concerns I should have with an indoor pool (i.e.. is a chlorine stabilizer
needed). Thanking you in advance.
Chev H., Ottawa, Canada, 11/15/2004
Read enough and everything seems to
cause cancer.
That odor of chlorine, that you smell indoors, is not chlorine. It is
chloramines and it is known as a bad actor. It is odorous, irritating and
ineffective. High cyanuric acid levels are another potential problem. The good
news is that chloramines are completely destroyed, as the water passes through
the salt cell and there is no build up of cyanuric acid (chlorine stabilizer).
Your pool is indoors, so you do not need any stabilizer!!! The fact that
the pool is
fiberglass will simplify the maintenance of the pool water chemistry
because of the inert nature of the fiberglass. Basically all you
will have is salt, chlorine and some innocuous pH adjustment chemicals. There
is a long safe history of chlorine being used in pools and drinking water. Bad
press about chlorine, usually refers to its manufacture and the release of
mercury. This has nothing to do with swimming pools. A
salt chlorinator
will go a long way towards helping to maintain the best appearance of the pool
finish, because it helps avoid ultra high chlorine levels and corrosive low pH
conditions. I hope that I have been of assistance.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 11/15/2004
► Cleaned Up Nicely?
We just bought a house with a fiberglass
in ground pool and are having a few problems that I can't seem to get a straight
answer for. When we bought the house the previous owner told us it was easy
maintenance, just one chlorine tablet a week. We did that for about 3 months,
the pool looked beautiful we didn't worry about it. My husband had some
questions about the filter system so we called out a pool service guy, and he
tested the water also. He said our chlorine was zero, as was the pH. But, the
pool still looked beautiful. He suggested sodium bicarbonate to raise the
pH and a shock treatment for the chlorine. It is a small pool, about 10000
gallons or less, so he said to add 10 lbs of the sodium bicarbonate, which I
did. It turned the pool water green, so I did the shock treatment, which seemed
to bring the color better, but then I got a brown stain around the water line
and the whole rest of the pool. I tested the alkalinity which was very high so
I used muriatic acid to bring that down. Now all the chemicals are stabilized,
the chlorine is still a little high from the shock treatment over a week ago.
The pH and alkalinity are fine and the stains seem to be gone. Does this make
sense? No pool store here in Hawaii sells the ascorbic acid. What do you
suggest? Thanks for your help.
Shelley F., Hawaii, 2/23/2004
If the stains are gone, you don't need
ascorbic acid. What you should add is a double dose of a quality metal
treatment, in order to complex any dissolved metals. Add a maintenance
dose monthly and prior to adding new water and it will help keep the fiberglass
free of stains. If you have a heater, you may have exposed the copper
components to corrosion and that could have caused the staining and
discoloration.
The previous pool owner probably over simplified
the pool maintenance. He neglected to tell you that the chlorine tablets
are acidic and will require the occasional addition of chemicals to maintain the
pH and total alkalinity. He also failed to tell you that shock treatment
may be required, in order to maintain a free chlorine level of 1-3 PPM.
The fact that the water was clear was due to the low pH: it makes
dissolved minerals more soluble, but creates corrosive and irritating
conditions. The
fact that you have a
fiberglass pool helped avoid corrosion and surface etching,
that might have added to the problem. Now that you are on the right track,
keep the free chlorine at 1-3 PPM, the pH at 7.2-7.6 and the TA at about 100
PPM. Want to make chlorine maintenance easier??? Check out
salt chlorinating systems.
I hope that you have found this information helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
2/24/2005
►
What To Anticipate?
Alan, I am relocating to
Florida and I am planning on having a house built with a pool. I have never owned a
pool before and don't know what to look for to avoid future problems. Any
suggestions? I would also like to know what to expect as far as time and cost
to maintain a pool. Thanks.
Ben G., 12/9/2003
A lot will
depend upon the pool and your budget. Your first decision should be what
kind of pool: gunite or
fiberglass. A pool is a long term
investment, so choose carefully and check out the builder. Assuming that it is an inground
pool, it may require a few hours a week to maintain the water chemistry and make
the proper adjustments. If it is within your budget you could use a
salt
chlorinator or an ozonator as a means of eliminating most of the
chemicals. Cleaning the pool, depending upon location can involve work.
This too can be simplified with the addition of an
automatic pool vacuum.
For information on this product go to:
www.smartpool.com
Reading up on water chemistry and proper filter operation will help get you off
on the right track. Browsing through the archives will help educate you
about pool maintenance. Cost will depend upon pool size, location and
usage. A ballpark figure might be $1000-2000 per year, but it is not
etched in stone, as it can depend on size, construction, Sun exposure, usage, sanitizer
choice, etc. This does not include electrical costs. I hope that I
have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 12/9/2003
► Tan & Brown Stains?
We have a 5000 gal
fiberglass pool with heater, that slowly develops stains (brown or tan) on
walls, pH 7.4, TA 120. These stains can easily be removed by a stain remover
(concentrated ascorbic acid, together with a metal treatment. After
treatment, pump is run for 12 hours then filter is backwashed and new DE
added. We treat this problem when it becomes unsightly, approx every 6 weeks.
Are you aware of any chemical/product that could be added on a continuing
basis that would prevent this staining. It would be nice to have pool walls
clean all the time. Could corrosion from heater be causing problem? Any other
possible cause of problem? Thank you.
Tom K, 3/22/2004 The color, of
the pool stains, are not consistent with copper, so I would rule out the heater.
However, it is consistent with iron and so is the treatment that you have used.
I suggest that you have the pool and source water tested for iron. Any
level can be a problem. Iron can be present, even if the test results are
negative, due to interference from other chemicals that might have been added or
from the fact that it is on the walls and no longer present in the water.
It sounds like iron, so I suggest that it be treated like iron. The
recurrence could be due to not having added enough of the metal treatment or
having added makeup water. Add a dose of the metal treatment now and add
an additional dose monthly or whenever new water is added.
Fiberglass has a negative electrical charge and can
attract positively charged metallic ions, causing the development of a stain.
The periodic addition of a metal treatment should help negate this effect and
help keep pool stain free. I hope that the information will prove useful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/22/2004
BorderLines Creates A New Waterline
(Click on the Image for
product & ordering information.)
► Adding A New Waterline?
I recently bought a resale that came with a fiberglass pool. The pool
looks great, except for the waterline area. It is not tiled and has nicks,
bruises and some discoloration. It looks like they tried to scrub
something off. Short of applying a tile border, is there some less
expensive that we can use, until another day? Thank you.
Betty. N., Freehold, NJ, 5/26/2007
Just the product exists! It
is called
BorderLines
and is an adhesive border that you can apply to create a
whole new look. Each piece is 6" high by 24" wide and is easy to apply.
It should last about 3 seasons. Afterwards, it can be removed with
difficulty or damage to the underlying surface. At that time you can use a
new set of BorderLines or, if the finances permit, add a real tile border.
I hope that this information will prove useful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/26/2007
|
Easily Create A Beautiful New WaterLine! |
► Use Of Muriatic
Acid?
I'm new to owning a pool.
I've just purchased (two years ago) a house equipped with an in-ground pool,
lined with fiberglass. The previous owner advised me that muriatic acid
should never be used in the pool. He used granulated chlorine only. During
the summer months I was going through chlorine like crazy and having
problems with cloudy water and algae. One year ago I had a salt system
installed. Since then the water has been crystal clear, but there is now a
slightly grayish /tan film accumulating on the pool surface. Particularly
in the areas of the returns and the spa. The film is impossible to brush
off, but will leave a clean streak if you wipe your finger over it. The pH
level has been historically high (off the chart on my tester/ dark pink).
Is this the cause? Can I add muriatic acid to the pool? If not, what can I
do to correct/ bring down the pH level? Sincerely.
Jerry W., 1/21/2007
There is a huge
difference between adding muriatic acid to lower the pH and pouring the
full-strength acid on the walls. The latter should not be done. But, you
must get the pH to 7.2-7.8 and you will need to acid to do that. Salt
chlorine generators, do tend to cause the pH to rise. High pH can cause
scaling to occur and lead to metal stains. See below. I suggest that you
add a few doses of metal treatment, as the pH is being lowered. Give it
some time and see if that helps. High pH will make the chlorine less
effective and that can lead to other problem, as well. Three
factors contribute to scaling conditions: high calcium hardness (usually
over 400 PPM), high pH (usually over 7.8) and total alkalinity (usually over
200 PPM). All three together make it even worse. You can lower the pH and
TA with acid. The calcium hardness might be controlled, but not necessarily
lowered, by adding a calcium sequestering agent. I suggest that you
test the water for pH, TA and calcium hardness. The
Langelier Index
will tell you if the water is scale forming and provide insight to help
improve the situation. If the stains persist, you might want to treat with
ascorbic or oxalic acid: refer to the pages on
pool staining.
I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/22/2007
► Humps Or Bumps?
What causes “humps” or “bumps” in
the bottom of a fiberglass pool? Thank you.
John D., 5/29/2006
There are several
possibilities, but bumps in the bottom of a
fiberglass pool, are not a common
occurrence, although it does happen from time to time. This most commonly
happens when the water level drops down, and without knowing it, there is
hydrostatic pressure under the pool. This causes the sand under the pool to
shift and create a hump in the floor of the pool that can not be brought back
down without removing the sand underneath it. I suggest that you discuss
this with the builder, as to how it can best be remedied. I hope that I
have been of assistance.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 5/29/2006
► Initial Fill Up?
Can a fiberglass pool be
installed without filling it with water during the installation? In other
words, how is the pool supposed to be filled up?
Nelson S., 4/15/2005
A
fiberglass pool is designed to have
internal and external pressure. Unless a pool is structurally enhanced, at any
given time the pressure outside the pool and the pressure inside the pool should
be equal. Viking Fiberglass Pools recommends that there be no more than a
6” difference between the water and the backfill when the pool is being filled.
A properly trained installer should be proceeding on this basis.
I hope that I have been helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 4/15/2005
► Pool That Has Settled?
My fiberglass pool, 3 years old,
seems to have settled slightly on one end near the steps. How can this be
fixed? I appreciate your help.
Kelly, H., 11/2/2005
In most
situations, the only true way to fix a pool that has settled is to pull it up
out of the ground. On some occasions the steps can be adjusted without removing
the entire pool. I suggest that you discuss this with the builder, as to
possible causes and remedies. Possible causes include: erosion
by ground water or springs, changes in the water table, heavy rainfall or
flooding, unstable ground and installation techniques. I suggest
that you discuss both the cause and solution with the builder. Good luck
and I hope that this information will prove helpful.
Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/3/2005
► Possible Chlorine Damage?
I have a fiberglass pool with
a floater to dissolve chlorine. the floater got stuck on the steps and left
brownish stains (bad ones). Is there a good way to remove these? Can I scrub the
fiberglass surface with anything? Thanks.
Mike M., 3/9/2005
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